Hello folks,

I have 2006 Sentra 1.8S Special Edition, currently clocking about 102,000 miles. Our household uses this card for local driving only, i.e. within 20 miles radius and due to the financial burden that we are going through as a result of healthcare, we are seriously considering taking this car to the grave.

Since we bought it pre-owned 2010, following maintenance has been performed in addition to regular oil change, once a year (We hardly drive 6000 miles a year) and tire replacement.

July 2011 - Air Conditioner tune up, AC head liners replaced, Evac and recharge (AC wasn't working, it was fixed). It busted again last year.
Jan 2012 - Adjust and clean brakes Up from E brake (Don't know what this is, copying what is written in the bill), Blower motor replacement, Serpentine belt replacement.
March 2014 - Front Flex Pipe replacement
July 2014 - Air Fuel ratio replacement (but I keep getting P0441 error code quite often. The mechanic replaced this sensor because of this code.)
Sept 2014 - Battery replacement.
July 2015 - Serpentine Belt replacement
March 2016 - Front brake pads and rotors replacement, Muffler gasket replacement.
July 2016 - Airbag replacement (recall)

I know the shocks are leaking and need to be replaced. During winter, the car takes a while to gain speed (i.e. to reach 30 miles per hour). The car has a tough time going up the slope. The engine raves a lot while going up the slope. I mentioned these issues to the mechanic and he mentioned that the car is just old. I find it hard to believe but would like to have an opinion of the experts here.

My questions are
- Is it worth to invest in this car to last another 100,000 miles?
If yes,
- What maintenance should I perform in order to last this car longer? I am sure it varies from car to car but I am looking for generic information.
I watched a video on YouTube and the guy suggested
- Flushing coolant, transmission fluid, brake fluid (not power flushes)
- Replacing all hoses (specifically cooling hoses).
- Replacing spark plugs (Ignition tune up).
- Fix leaky parts.
- Replace air filter (different than the cabin filter).
- Replace fuel filter, transmission fluid filter.
- Vacuum lines (if present).
- Clean Mass flow air sensor.
- Intake hoses if worn out.
- Test alternator/alternative (didn't understand exactly).
He also suggested performing a compression test. I am not too sure what this is but would like to know if I can ask a mechanic to perform this test. What will it tell me about the engine?

Other than this, any other piece of advice you may have.

Many thanks in advance.

Welcome aboard!

Before anything, I'd be concerned about the lack of acceleration. If the car isn't showing any codes, but it struggles to go 0-30, there's cause for concern.

Shocks and other parts can be bought cheaply via Amazon, if you don't mind not having OEM parts. If money is an issue, they'll get you by just fine.

No need for a compression test. If you're not using oil excessively, there's no real need to do this. Basically, it determines if each cylinder is "pulling its weight." 100k is not a lot of miles these days, and your car isn't even halfway to the end of its engine's usefulness.

I'd recommend the following:

Oil changes every 2000 miles. Seems excessive, but short trips and frequent sitting are not good for your engine. Every time you start it after sitting for a long time, the oil has drained off the critical components. Cold startups are responsible for the majority of engine wear.

Change your trans fluid, brake fluid, and coolant. Cheap maintenance. Brake fluid can be done by bleeding the brakes (start with the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Let us know if you need instructions on this.

The rest of that list is good, especially changing hoses.

At 100k miles, if your car was maintained at all, it should be good cheap transportation for quite some time.

Thanks, AZHitman for all the comments.

I am not smart enough to DIY this stuff. So I won't be doing anything by myself.

With the speed, reaching from zero to 30, if I accelerate slowly, it takes about 12-15 seconds, then it jerks, as if the gear is changing and then it runs smoothly. If I accelerate hard, the rpm dial goes upto 3, a major jerk and then car again runs fine for rest of the ride. Once the car warms up, the duration reduces and jerks get a little less pronounced. Every time I do any work on the car, I mention this to the mechanic but in last 4 years, he has not said a peep about it. Just the car is getting old.
If anyone thinks of the cause or have an idea what needs to be checked, please suggest. I will ask the mechanic to check that.

With other stuff, I am not as much worried about the cost of the parts as much the labor. The running labor in my neighborhood is $95/hr. That adds up pretty fast.

I will change oil every 2000 miles. I plan to use Mobil oil from Costco. I wonder if you any opinion about drain valves. Since I don't have too many tools, I was considering installing one of these valves. http://www.fumotousa.com/parts.php?part ... tnumber=30 Of course, everyone in my neighborhood refused to install citing safety concerns.

Thanks again for all comments.

In reverse order: Skip the drain valve. Doing your own oil change isn't hard, we'll walk you through it. The tools to do it right cost less than that valve, and they're a pain in the butt.

Find a Harbor Freight store nearby. You need a wrench for the drain plug (I think it's a 14mm, but double-check) and a oil filter wrench, and a drain pan (I use old pink hospital barf pans, haha, but you cna use a kitty litter pan, or a big tupperware bucket, etc.) Grab a funnel (for filling with fresh oil, and putting the used oil into an empty container to return to an autoparts store). All that will cost you $20.

Stick with cheap oil (yes, I said it). In fact, I'm a fan of the blue-bottle "house brand" at Wal-Mart for our 'pedestrian' vehicles. Buy it by the gallon for $11.

The other issue sounds like a trans problem. Torque converter, possibly. However, have you checked the fluid lately? Check it with the car at operating temp, on level ground. Fluid should be near the "full" mark on the stick - Pul the stick, wipe on a white paper towel, stick it back in all the way, pull it again. Fluid should be near the "full" mark, and should look pinkish/clear on the towel.

We'll keep helping as long as you hang around!

Thanks, AZHitman,

I always wanted to do the oil change myself but due to lack of confidence and nobody to watch if I am doing it right, I never dared. But thanks for all push, I am willing to do it. If sh*t happens, the mechanic is next door.

I was looking at oil filter wrench and found http://www.harborfreight.com/end-cap-oi ... 69894.html but I don't know which tool would fit it. (I know this is a dumb question but I really don't know.) I have a regular wrench set, (http://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-fully ... 69044.html) that includes 14mm.

The oil, I guess you are talking about, https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-Sup ... t/16474403, right? A quick question, any specific reason I should stick to cheap oil. I got Mobil 1 6qt at Costco for $29. While its double the cost, I really don't mind if it is going to make even an iota of benefit. So far the mechanic has always used conventional oil (brand unknown, I asked him quite many times but wouldn't tell me).

Oil filter, is there any recommended brand or specification? I checked the manual and there is no item recommendation other than genuine Nissan filter. Amazon gives me various options
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-3300-Premi ... B000BZGKE4
https://www.amazon.com/Fram-PH6607-Extr ... B000276B18
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan-1 ... B00ESTFM8Y
https://www.amazon.com/HP-1010-Performa ... B000C3XD90 (Wrench off oil filter. since I don't how to use the oil filter wrench)

Do I need to grab O-rings?

When you say fluid in the last paragraph, which fluid are you talking about. I am only aware of oil dipstick. If there is another dipstick, where is it located? I have attached a under the hood picture.


Last question, I have car jacks but not the jack stands. I wonder if it is advisable to go under the car when the car is on jacks and not stands, or I should invest in the stands? If I should invest in the jack stands what capacity I should look for 3 ton or 6 ton?

Thanks again for all help. You probably have no idea how useful this information is to me.

Here ya go - again, in order, this time from the top down.

You're welcome. It's why we're here.

Your mechanic should be a little more helpful. Then again, their time is valuable.

That oil filter wrench is perfect IF the bottom (closed end) of the filter points down, or is pretty accessible. You'll need a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen it: http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-driv ... 62287.html Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.

Don't put the new filter on with the wrench - thread it on by hand, then hand-tighten to "snug"... no grunting.

Yep, SuperTech. It's just fine for your car. No need for synthetic. If it's always had conventional, stick with that. The shops buy their oil in bulk, so they don't even usually know what brand it is. Use the viscosity recommended in your manual. Absent that, 10w30 is a safe choice. Remember this: The BEST oil is CLEAN oil. Your Sentra won't know the difference - she's not running on the ragged edge of performance.

Same with the filter - Don't go crazy. Save your cash, get whatever is on sale. Some of the Fram filters have the grippy texture, which is great - you may not even need a tool to remove it (if you have moderately strong hands).

O-rings are incorporated in the filter - No need to buy.

There should be another dipstick (for the transmission fluid) towards the driver side. It should be somewhere under the airbox. In your pic above, start looking down about halfway between your oil dipstick and red battery terminal. As an added bonus, IF you follow the above directions and find it's low on trans fluid (I'll bet it is, so don't drive until you check it), you can top it off right through the same hole the dipstick fits into! Convenient, eh?

Here's the FSM (page 32) for your transmission fluid check: http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... _Sentra/ma

Do NOT get under the car without jack stands. 3-ton are perfect (buy 2).

There's some great info in the Factory Service Manual, which I'll link you to here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use-ni ... abase.html

Your homework for the next 24 hours, if I may: Read through this entire section - http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... _Sentra/ma

Thank you AZHitman.

Apologies for replying late.

Now that I read the pdf you linked. I am now confident that I will be able to do this.

I checked the transmission fluid. I was surprised to see it is pinkish. I don't remember changing transmission fluid ever. I checked a few videos on youtube and I thought, my oil must be burnt since I never replaced, but pinkish tint was a pleasant surprise. I still plan to drain it sometimes later. One thing at a time, if things go bad, should know what I screwed up.

The transmission fluid level is full. How do I proceed with car jerking business? Could it be that the MAF sensor is dirty or the wire is loose? (Again, some videos on YouTube suggest that.)

I got Bosch filter, that was the cheapest I could get on Amazon with free shipping. Fram was cheaper but was an add-on item. There is no O-ring in the filter box. So what size O-rings should I get?

I get P0455 quite often (not P0441) and it is lit again. 2 years ago, I changed gas cap with the OEM cap from the dealership, didn't change anything. The engine keeps throwing P0455 as and when it feels. Searching YouTube suggested me, it could be solenoid/Purge valve near the rear wheel. I am considering replacing it. What is your recommendation?

Again, thanks a million for all help. Without this help, I would have never considered doing anything on the car.

No O-ring needed - If you'll look at the base of the filter, it's integrated.

This may help: sentra-2006-1-8-se-code-p0455-t381770.html

Glad to help!

Just leaving a note here for someone who may have P0455 issue. Change canister vent valve. This has been discussed in the thread linked above, but since my inspection was due, I didn't have enough time to do it myself. So gave it to the mechanic. Charged $150 to diagnose the problem. Suggested charcoal canister in the beginning but then replaced the valve (most likely OEM) for $180 (including labor).