How rebuildable (is that even a word?) are the stock turbos?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Bronze MFP
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I blew the oil seal on the compressor side of my stock turbo. The thing is, the turbo ran great on the car before I replaced it, and it still has no shaft play. The only way I knew there was something wrong was when I saw oil dripping out of my PCV hoses where they connect to the cam covers. I'd like to get the oil seal replaced if its possible, but one shop I talked to made it sound like you couldn't do that and would just have to buy a new center section. Are they right? whats up?


l0nestar
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Please read:zerothread?id=208189

The general consensus is that it is cheaper to buy a new (or new to you) turbo. I think there are a few stock RB25 turbos in the FS thread. Ask pirate87 about rebuilding it. I'm interested in common / standard upgrades for the stock 25 turbo as well. (thinking T3-T04e, if possible, but havent found anything to confirm / deny it :-\)

HTH.

l0nestar.

Joe
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basically once its trash its cheaper to upgrade to a t3+ turbo.

its unfortunate but true...

Bronze MFP
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I got a replacement rb20 turbo for the time being. Just kinda sad seeing as how the rest of the turbo is in awesome shape. oh well

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DriftingisLame
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Why dont you think its blowby? Oil around the PCV hoses? I have the same problem, and I'm trying to figure it out..

I figure, the better way of diagnosing is buying an oil catch can, and re-routing your PCV hoses into that, if the oil stops showing up in the intake, and instead into the catch can, its blowby. If the oil continues to show up in the intake, its the turbo...

Anyone have any light to shed on my theory?

Bronze MFP
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if it was blowby, my engine would be in sad shape, there were little pools of oil in my j-pipe and a puddle of oil in the intercooler, classic signs of a failed turbo oil seal.

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DriftingisLame
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The PCV tubes route from the valve cover to the non pressurized intake pipe. Maybe I'm missing something, this doesnt add up.

You found oil in the PCV tubes, therefore your turbo seal is bad? The turbo leaking oil would never bring oil to the PCV.. But the PCV shooting oil into the intake pipe would shoot oil throughout the rest of the intake piping (J-pipe, intercooler, etc.).

Please explain your logic.

Darius
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Bronze, I'm with DriftingIsLame on this one. I was worried about the same thing when I took my head off this last time and my intercooler piping was coated in oil with a little bit in the intercooler too. I even switched to a catch can a little while back. There can be a ton of oil vapor lost through the valve covers and PCV system.

I would first clean everything up, then install a catch can. If you wanted to get away the cheapest, just plug the PCV valve, run a tube off of each valve cover and plug the rest of the openings up. The tubes on the valve covers can just be long enough to hang down on the intake side of your motor or wherever they won't get caught. Then, run it for a week or so and see if there is any oil in the intercooler piping.

Start with the cheapest options first.

Bronze MFP
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I already have a new(er) stock turbo on. so far so good, everything is clean inside the intake trac.

but you all have me confused now. can the PCV system really get that much oil into the j-pipe, intercooler and everywhere else? I was assuming it was the turbo seeing as how there were pools of oil in the compressor housing (when i took the turbo off, a pool of oil in the intercooler and pooled oil in the j-pipe. but i didn't start taking things apart until i noticed slight amounts of oil dripping from the pcv pipe, and oil being blown out through a small leak where the BOV gasket is.

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pirate87
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rebuild is futile!

Sorry to say, but its just not worth it...and I am a huge proponent of fixing things before scrapping them.

rang dang diggy dig dang da dang....FREEBASE! Dont Do it!
Modified by pirate87 at 12:42 PM 3/12/2007

GTR Shop
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Unless its a 32/33 GTR turbo, then throw it away. The shaft is the inner race of the bearings, pull the shaft, bearing falls apart and there is no way to get it back together

Bronze MFP
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I'm wondering if it was an oil seal or blowby now. earlier in the thread when you all were talking about blowby, I was thinking oil getting past the piston rings. Anyway, when I pulled the turbo, there was oil pooled in the compressor inlet which would have could have very easily been sucked through the pcv system. I need to get an oil catch tank and go from there. at any rate, the rb is running rock steady now. thanks for the info guys.

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DriftingisLame
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I'm still trying to figure it out myself, as I'm in the same boat as you..

I'm going to put a catch can on and research how to do a leakdown test, as I think that will reveal what it is thats failing.

Good luck and keep us posted!

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uber95
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pirate87 wrote:rebuild is futile!

Sorry to say, but its just not worth it...and I am a huge proponent of fixing things before scrapping them.

rang dang diggy dig dang da dang....FREEBASE! Dont Do it!

Modified by pirate87 at 12:42 PM 3/12/2007
Why do you say rebuilding that T25 is futile? Rebuild parts are available, as well as at least one very competent shop (very close to my home). It may not be logical for someone who wants more power to rebuild a stocker, but for someone who's not looking for anything beyond what the factory turbo offers, why not?

Granted there are more options available than the factory choice for the RB20, but I'm sure the very easiest solution for someone not wanting/needing anything beyond what I outlined is to have the T25 that came on it rebuilt. As Kamin pointed out it very well may be cheaper to upgrade, but that's obviously not what some folks want. Don't take my word for it, call Charlie at Evergreen Turbo Co. (800) 275- 2531http://www.evergreenturbo.com/ Great guy, super knowledgable and has been my turbo guy since 1990 My $.02

l0nestar
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uber95,

I'm not saying the guy cannot do it, but so far no-one has been able to figure out what exactly this homogenization of a turbo really _is_. Please read the link that I posted (1st comment). The stock RB25 turbo is _not_ a T25 either, it seems to be a T3 intake with a non standard exhaust side.

Sil240
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GTR Shop wrote:Unless its a 32/33 GTR turbo, then throw it away. The shaft is the inner race of the bearings, pull the shaft, bearing falls apart and there is no way to get it back together
Well can you buy the bearing rebuild?I guess you'd have to press the other pieces back onto the shaft.

What about the Oil Seals??Can you change those without removing the shaft??

Anyone have the FAST program???Have it on CD but can't get it to work.

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uber95
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l0nestar; Is it the same unit that the Bluebird comes with stock? If it is then I know for a fact that Charlie both knows what it is and can/has rebuilt them. I was hanging out at his shop about 4 or 5 years ago and B.S.'n while he was working on some T-chargers for some dude in South Africa that races, and uses some form of that T-charger that comes on a Nissan Bluebird.

If it's not the exact same unit, I know that Charlie will still more than likely be able to identify it, my RB20 hasn't arrived yet so I don't have one to hand him (yet). You were inquiring about the unit from an RB25, is it the same as one from an RB20?

Sil240
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NOPE.Bluebird uses the SR20DETWhich comes with a T25 turbo

The RB is some kind of T3 hybrid

180sx
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HYBRID??? ITS A TYPICAL TINY .49 AR T3. EXHAUST FLANGE MAY NOT BE STANDART, BUT THATS THE ONLY THING (NOT ALL T3 COME WITH THE SAME EXHAUST FLANGE ALLTOGETHER ANYWAY)

I RUN UR GUY'S OEM RB20 TURBO ON MY KA24ET. IF YOU WANTED TO UPGRADE IT YOU CAN GET BIGGER EXHAUST AND COMP WHEELS ALONG THE SIDE WITH LARGER AR HOUSINGS AND JUST KEEP CENTER PEACE FOR OIL/COOLANT AND BB BEARING. OR GET A T3/04 CHARGER AND READAPT DP.

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uber95
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Whoa, two wordsCAP LOCK

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For a start a T25 shares nothign in common with a RB20 or 25 turbo.T25s unless off a R34 GTR, S14 or S15 are all plain bearing and can be rebuilt,RB20-25 are all ball bearing. thy use the shaft as the inner race of the bearing.You can't buy the genuine bearings for them and if you could I'd like to see you assemble one! If you do do any type of overhaul on a RB20/25 turbo, then you end up replacing the CHRA with a plain bearing type ie std T3.

You can't put bigger wheels into a std core - end of story.

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DriftingisLame
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If your curious about the stock turbos rebuilt, you should look at sliding performance on the aussie boards, they rebuild their turbos with a journal berring and all new garrett internals and larger wheels/bored housings..

I'm not saying buy one, but I'm sure they've found that to be the best, or only smart way to rebuild the stockers.

Bronze MFP
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GTR Shop wrote:For a start a T25 shares nothign in common with a RB20 or 25 turbo.T25s unless off a R34 GTR, S14 or S15 are all plain bearing and can be rebuilt,RB20-25 are all ball bearing. thy use the shaft as the inner race of the bearing.You can't buy the genuine bearings for them and if you could I'd like to see you assemble one! If you do do any type of overhaul on a RB20/25 turbo, then you end up replacing the CHRA with a plain bearing type ie std T3.

You can't put bigger wheels into a std core - end of story.
on another note, the turbine housing seems like it's cast to the CHRA, so as far as I can see you can't remove it. try and clock your turbine housing and see!

nismopwr240
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You may want to do a compression test if u are getting oil in the PCV lines. The same thing happened to me, and i found some very bad news, my number 4 cylinder only had 70psi of comp. and then after adding a bit of oil it went up to 100psi. Im just gonna go ahead and get another motorset. And by the way, i met u at northlake with Carl... i have the champagne s13 with stock RB. Hope for the best and keep us posted on what u find out.

nismopwr240
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oh and i also thought it was the turbo at first, but like u i had normal shaft play. The oil feed and return did not seem to be bad on mine from a quick inspection.

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S14-NEO
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Sil240 wrote:NOPE.Bluebird uses the SR20DETWhich comes with a T25 turbo

The RB is some kind of T3 hybrid
sorry but the pulsar GTIR does not come with a T25 turbo...however it is a T series turbo slighty bigger than a 25 its actually a T28 with a .86 A/R turbine housing either way it still wont work anyways for the flange is merely a T25 flange and not a T3 flange

Sil240
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S14-NEO wrote:sorry but the pulsar GTIR does not come with a T25 turbo...however it is a T series turbo slighty bigger than a 25 its actually a T28 with a .86 A/R turbine housing either way it still wont work anyways for the flange is merely a T25 flange and not a T3 flange
??? I'm lost???GTi-R???I thought he said Bluebird, I must have missed it or something

Sil240
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Well my RB25 turbo was blowing oil.So I took it off and started trying to pull it apart.Pullled off the compressor housing and the Compressor wheel is PLASTIC.

Couldn't get the wheel off, It has some special nut on it.Either that or I just didn't try hard enough.

Drifting is lame- Where did you see the turbo rebuilding??

l0nestar
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Sil240 wrote:I pullled off the compressor housing and the Compressor wheel is PLASTIC.
Really.. Which generation engine do you have (R32 / R33 S1 / R33 S2)? I know my R33 S1 is metal, I have heard of this, but never seen one.

Sil240
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Dunno, i bought it from someone on here.Longggg time ago.

It's some kind of strong plastic, because I wasn't sure at first but then I saw the flashing that was left behind.

You know when you get something plastic and it has a little piece that's not suppose to be there. (can't explain too well)

I'll take some pics eventually.

HAHAHAsome guy quoted me $900 to replace the center section with a new Garrett BB one. LOL



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