How long will it last??

[q45vh]

Hey Q45 owners!!! well i've read quite a few logs and many Q45s have over 250,000 and still running!!! my question is how long a Q could actually run for?? wit regular maintaince??? 300,000miles? more??

[Q45man1]

Our very own Q45 Tech guru has over 300K miles in his 90Q. Follow your regular and preventive maintenance schedule religiously and you'll enjoy your Q for a long time.

[q45vh]

man i love u guys!! u guys always have answers and are helpful!!! this site like is my savior!!! has all my questions answered!!! love to all u Q45 owners!!! We got to stick 2gether since there isn't much of us than Lexus LS, 7series, and S class owners!! LOL

[Jesda]

[96Qowner]

What you're really asking is how much does it cost to keep a Q45 running for over 300,000 miles. Everything is replaceable. Any car can run forever. I believe there are a few NICO members with over 300,000, and MANY with over 200,000. I'll hit 200,000 in August. There's a past post from a guy with over 400,000.

I've personally put about 45,000 on mine. There are certain times when you have to decide to scrap the car or restore it. At about 140,000 it needs some serious work. The engine hoses are deteriorated, the knock sensors and harness aren't working anymore, the shocks are beyond shot, the motor mounts are hard as a rock and splitting, the fuel pump is failing, suspension rubber needs attention, the MAF is failing, etc. If someone bites the bullet and fixes all that, the car will be a joy to drive for another 100,000 miles with very little trouble. The big ugly doubt is the transmission - some, like mine, are still strong at 200,000 - most fail well before that. It depends on transmission temps and WOT shifts. Mine was owned by gray-hairs, so not many WOT shifts I suspect, but it lived the first 147,000 in Louisiana and has no transmission cooler, so I'm not sure why it's lasted so long. That's a $3500 expense.

The real answer to your question is 20 cents per mile. (For comparison, my Accord has cost less than 10 cents/mile) If you spend that much on maintenance, your Q45 will last virtually forever.
Modified by 96Qowner at 8:56 AM 7/11/2007

[DrewQ45]

zerothread?id=126575

[Q45tech]

I've spent more than $43,000 getting 314,000 miles in 17 years.

An average of $2500 [14 cents per mile] but 2 years were $6,000 and $7,000. The first 100,000 miles only cost $8,000, the next $17,500, the next $14.5k [I learned to buy Q's for used parts].

I must have $4,000 in used good parts in garage whicj cost esentially nothing. Unfortunately the parts I have never fail, so far.

In need to replace shocks, some rubber isolators and brake rotors now.

The remanned [#3] transmission has 100,000 miles and 5 years, so a replacement is in the budget............along with a new steering rack stopped leaks for now, but].

You can buy used Q that only need $3,000-$5,000 or ones that need $11,000 worth of repairs.

I keep telling the story of the pristine 1999 C43 AMG now at 103k spent $4,000 plus 7days focus for a remanned transmission needs another $5,000 in brakes, AC, switches and misc. All this for 20,000 miles of driving 45 cents per mile plus tires and depreciation [$7,000].

[lino]

The real answer to your question is 20 cents per mile. (For comparison, my Accord has cost less than 10 cents/mile) If you spend that much on maintenance, your Q45 will last virtually forever.

I've spent more than $43,000 getting 314,000 miles in 17 years. An average of $2500 [14 cents per mile] but 2 years were $6,000 and $7,000. The first 100,000 miles only cost $8,000, the next $17,500, the next $14.5k

Based on these numbers is there a car out there that compares to the Q and costs the same $ to run per mile? Anyone do the calculations for other cars?

[Q45denver]

I'm not aware of anything. Lexus might be close if you factor in lower depreciation.

[mtzgr777]

At about 140,000 it needs some serious work. The engine hoses are deteriorated, the knock sensors and harness aren't working anymore, the shocks are beyond shot, the motor mounts are hard as a rock and splitting, the fuel pump is failing, suspension rubber needs attention, the MAF is failing, etc. If someone bites the bullet and fixes all that, the car will be a joy to drive for another 100,000 miles with very little trouble. The big ugly doubt is the transmission - some, like mine, are still strong at 200,000 - most fail well before that.

Great........I just bought my Q with 140,900 on it.....I may need to replace the knock sensors soon, but the hoses look new, the shocks are fine, the suspension is perfect, the fuel pump seems o.k. (how do you check that?) and I have no idea about the MAF....

[qship96]

When you pull plenum to replace knock sensors and harness, you replace EVERY hose under the plenum- total parts needed for the job run just over $1000 from Infiniti of Scottsdale{Joe} and labor adds another $600-800. Impossible to check conditions of most of the 35+ small custom molded hoses without removing the plenum to get to them.Add resealing the valve covers and changing sparkplugs while plenum is off will increase total bill by about $600.....total $2200-2400 for the whole enchilada which will need redoing about every 100,000 miles or 7-9 years of time regardless of number of miles driven.

[Q45tech]

Every used car we inspect needs $3,000 MINIMUM and some need $10,000 to restore to near new mechanical condition.This does not include interior or externals or paint!Unless you have driven your year and model brand new you cannot compare CURRENT CONDITION.What seems great to many is a worn out sack of _______ to an expert.Everyone standards are different.

Few would know if an AC system is operating at 80% of brand new.Few would know if a panic stop is 130 feet or 150 feet.Few would know the difference in a 0.65G and a 0.75G cornerning ability.Few would know a 7.2 or a 8.2 acceleration to 60.

Many don't care.

[maxnix]

I may need to replace the knock sensors soon, but the hoses look new, the shocks are fine, the suspension is perfect, the fuel pump seems o.k. (how do you check that?) and I have no idea about the MAF....

You can't say that until your are able to view the insides of the hoses.

Unless the previousowner completely rehabilitated the suspension, I doubt it is perfect. When were the upper links repaired last?

You have to T off after the fuel filter (new, right?) and check idle and WOT under load on the road.

[mtzgr777]

I know its no in new or even near new condition...all I need it to do is last me another 100k or so without pouring too much money into it. I just bought it for $3300 and would rather not spend that same amount fixing it up. It runs fine, it drives smooth, I've spent the last 2 weeks changing the oil, changing the transmission and brake fluid, touching up paint protecting leather, waxing it etc. etc. I would like my Q to be in perfect running condition (who doesn't ) but in all honesty I don't mind have to deal with little things such as, longer stopping distance, harder than normal shift from 1st to 2nd gear and such. What do you think is the minimum I can do to keep this baby running good for another few years and maybe another 100k? I've already decided that I am going to get the knock sensors replaced at some point, and yes, probably all those friggin hoses also...and the spark plugs, well, can't I do that on my own for like $60?

Anyway, I'm going to call the guy I bought it from tomorrow and pick up all the service records....maybe I got lucky and some of it has been done for me?

Well, thanks for the info.....as grueling as it sounds!

[qship96]

Will EASILY cost over $3300 to be able to drive it for the next 100,000 miles, more likely to cost $15,000 in reality.

[mtzgr777]

I have nothing to say.

[Q45tech]

Based on history of 204 Q45 we have serviced, expect to spent $11,000 to $15,000 to drive a Q45 for the next 100,000 miles after the first 100,000 miles. Assume you wish to keep it in near new mechanical condition.

All of my estimates have been adjust to an $85 per hour labor rate and assume MSRP for parts, a 90 day oil change interval and oem equivalent tires [Michelins].

I also have corrected for the improved reliability of the 94-96 models.

My first 100,000 miles only cost $7,600 including the purchase of a 7year 100K Nissan warranty. Tires, brakes, shocks, O2 sensors, suspension, belts, fluids, rubber things which wear were not covered.

[mtzgr777]

Ok, well I'm more of an aftermarket low-grade tire person and not expecting to keep it like new question like you guys. Its my first car....

[Q45tech]

If you spend $500 for tires and $250 to rotate balance and align [2x] them each year and they last 3 years or 30,000 miles that's $3750 over 100k.

Obviously you can buy cheaper tires and skip the every 90 day rotate and balance and 1 alignment per year but you will not be maintaining as new or to standard.

Same with brakes: rotors [2x] pads [3x], caliper rebuild kit, new shims, brake line replacement, fuild changes and flushes. ~ $2,500-3,000.Minimum of 2 batteries. Minimum of 2 sets of belts, spark plugs, idler pulleys. probable CAS replacement. alternator, ac compressor, evaporator, hoses, dryer and condenser. Master cylinder, fan and viscous drive.Probable differential and rear subframe, driveshaft, transmission, motor and transmission mounts, front and rear main seals, resealing valve covers, fuel injectors, HVAC fan motor.

Just wear and tear things, no mechanical or electrical failures.

[Q45tech]

I have had personal experience with 4 different under 30's who purchased a used Q and had granddad and mom pay the bills. It was painful to see and hear the parents cry about how much the car costs.

A persons first car should always be a 4 cylinder FWD light weight vehicle everything is cheaper to repair and tires cost half as much, A G20 is a very good starter car as are any of asian makes, Even US companies make decent products with cheap to replace parts.

Above all never think EU.

[maxnix]

I know its no in new or even near new condition...all I need it to do is last me another 100k or so without pouring too much money into it. I just bought it for $3300 and would rather not spend that same amount fixing it up. It runs fine, it drives smooth, I've spent the last 2 weeks changing the oil, changing the transmission and brake fluid, touching up paint protecting leather, waxing it etc. etc

The discounted price you paid for it relflects the deferred maintenance and wear, but does not change the fact that you own a $50K imported luxury V8 sedan. You will notice that you will receive not further discounts on parts or labor due to the price you paid for it or the car's age.

So to give you a preview, here's what's going to happen to your car. Because you chose not to maintain, something will go wrong. Then you will have to obtain an OEM part or a cheap Chinese copy from NAPA, which you will do. The part will not fit or work quite right, and you will replace it again soon or it will fail catastrophically. Soon, a major subsystem will fail, and you will balk paying the part cost because your car is "only worth less than $3K." Soon, you will be writing your Congressman or Congresswoman for reinstatement of the Cash For Clunkers Program hoping it passes while your car is still running. Your car will die waiting and will be towed to the yard for $100.

Meanwhile the senior guys on this board will be spending the $3K a year in maintenance or set asides for resrves to keep the car performing as new and better than the new recyclable gas saving cars that Congress will demand be produced. We will still enjoy blowing off Mercedes and BMW 10-15 years newer while their drivers will wonder what the hell that was that just wnt by them. We will not be paying any further depreciation nor high insurance that those other drivers are. We will be happy!

[maxnix]

Ok, well I'm more of an aftermarket low-grade tire person and not expecting to keep it like new question like you guys. Its my first car....

There are no aftermarket parts for limited production imported V8 sedans like the Q45.

Secondly, cheap tires are a anathema for a heavy preformance car like a Q45. You might will have to live out the rest of your life under a cicil court judgement from the heirs of your deceased or crippled passengers or the victims of the car you hit when you lose control in the rain.

Listen to Q45tech's sage advice. Sell your car and get a 4 cylinder FWD compact like a Civic, Subaru, Toyota, Sentra. Really, you don't need the expense this car will entail. Please stay and participate on the board as there are many informative priinciple's one can apply to any ownership experience. But sell your Q45. It is not the best choice for you in your circumstances. Or get a second jobe to support it. Better you apply yourself to higher studies though, in my opinion.

And while youth is still wasted upon the young, I had to reflect my first two cars were hand me down Mustang V8, one a 1964.5 and a 1967. Age has its disadvantages, but I must say I am glad I got to live through that time of American pony cars with V8, relatively cheap gas, and less expensive and safer, if not free, love. Music was a lot better too.

[Victor]

If you buy your tires from places like Costco, Sam's Club. or America's Tire your $15 a tire mounting and balancing fee will include free lifetime tire rotations and balancing and flat repair. I don't believe alignments twice a year would be necessary for most people. If you lowered your car that's another story, be prepared for premature tire wear and related suspension problems.

[Victor]

I think a lot of what you have to spend on repairs and maintenance is luck. There is one 94 J30 owner who has 340,000 miles on his car and still has the original engine, transmission, and shocks. Then there are others who got stuck with a lemon money pit and they have spent thousand every year to repair and maintain their cars. The most important thing with a low production luxury car is to make sure everything that is important to you works properly when you buy the car used, so you don't start out with a money pit. Some cars, like my 94 J30T just don't break down. Neither the original owner nor myself has ever had to do a major repair, and very few minor ones, and I have 194,700 miles on my car. The only thing I should do is replace the shocks and struts, but even without doing this the car still rides pretty good. The only other problems are the remote control drivers door lock, but if I just use my key that's not a problem, and a very slow leak of power steering fluid that requires topping it off every couple of months. The only three minor repairs I had was a radiator hose and the alternator belt and a headlight bulb. The car always passes smog test on the first try.

[Q45tech]

The 470 pound LIGHTER J30 with a V6 is quite different from the heavier V8 Q, The front suspension is different as is the engine power and transmission even the diff and drive shaft are different. Ac is different ABS is different.

Important to not compare apples to kiwi fruit, always same models and year ranges otherwise comments are invalid

We are speaking only about 1990-1993 Q45 and its costs to maintain!

[maxnix]

If you buy your tires from places like Costco, Sam's Club. or America's Tire your $15 a tire mounting and balancing fee will include free lifetime tire rotations and balancing and flat repair..

I've actually found that Costco was $50 more a tire than Tire Rack a while ago (PS2). Costco isn't too bad in that they have a health plan, but the others have some kind of minimum wage pit money handling your wheels and tires. Costco was meant to go to the road force Hunters, but I don't know if they did. Shipping and sales tax just about cancel.

In the end, a good experienced and knowledgeable operator makes all the difference. That is why I have my tires dropeed shipped to a guy who owns his own shop, does the installation (or his one equally as good employee), and do the Hunter laser alignment to perfection. he knows what I want and delivers every time. Always final torques with a torque wrench. Doesn't damage the wheel rims.

Also, every other time I rotate I am flipping the tires, and no one covers that.

[Victor]

I didn't say Costco and Sam's club were cheap. America's tire beat them on price, plus you can special order just about any tire made, whereas with Costco you are stuck with just what they carry. However they have the advantage of having stores all over the U.S. if you do a lot of traveling, plus the nitrogen inflation. I don't know why an independent would be any better than Costco at mounting, as Costco uses a torque wrench for the final tightening. Do you get free lifetime tire rotations and balancing with your independent, and do they give you a hard time on warranty repairs? And Costco probably pays their help more than an independent would.

[qship96]

Nitrogen inflation is a solution looking for a problem......I bet BG products will soon introduce a tire air flushing machine to further flush the wallets of the gullable.

[Victor]

From my experience Nitrogen inflation works. Once done you can go months and months without having to add air (or nitrogen if you take the car back to Costco). The bigger Nitrogen molecules take longer to leak out than the 20% oxygen in air does. As for the other claims about more stable tire pressure with differing temperatures I don't believe that as all gases would have to follow the PV=nRT gas law. Another advantage of pure nitrogen inflation is the N2 is completely dry, no water to corrode the inside of your rims or react with the rubber. If you know anything about compressing air then you know you have to drain the water from the tank occasionally.And yes, Costco does purge your tire before they add N2. The machine has a pump on it to pump out most of the air, or at least that's what the guy told me.

Modified by Victor at 6:15 PM 8/13/2009
Modified by Victor at 6:18 PM 8/13/2009

[mtzgr777]

A persons first car should always be a 4 cylinder FWD light weight vehicle everything is cheaper to repair and tires cost half as much, A G20 is a very good starter car as are any of asian makes, Even US companies make decent products with cheap to replace parts.

Above all never think EU.

It would be kinda hard since I haven't even gotten the car registered or insured yet and plus those lightweight 4 and 6 cylinders are in very high demand at this time.

I've spent the last 2 weeks cleaning every inch of the interior and exterior dirt and stains etc. I've also replaced all the missing bulbs and bought a new oem air filter.

Not that I'm sure I'm going to, but how much do you think I could get for it right now?