how hard is it to rebuild a ca18det?

[themadscientist]

You wrote your opinion as if it was fact and none of it was anything of the kind. Never had a CA oil pump fail, never seen or heard of one fail.

Mine just failed at 89,000 KM... =(

You have taken my innocence. It's like prom night all over again!

[roast]

No offense, buy my first reaction to that was, what happened to the oil, or the oil pickup, to cause it to fail.

I'm way past the offence thing... I had 5w40 oil in the car (I keep motul xclean for my tdi, it was in my garage) and I assure you it was topped up.

I will be checking the pickup, TMS will be happy to know if I was gentle or not...

[themadscientist]

Since we did it that way, I'm still technically a virgin.

[float_6969]

Not for long! You should be due for your first prostate check pretty soon, shouldn't you?

[themadscientist]

Your inappropriate obsession with my a** continues....

[float_6969]

It's not your a**, it's your Skylines and FJ20's I'm after...

[pogstar]

You could just replace the rods completely.
http://www.k1technologies.com/Rods/tabi ... fault.aspx



I picked up a set from here.
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/i ... s-all.html

did these come with the arp bolts? looks like a good deal..

[mr_ca18det]

yes they come with arp bolts.

[s13drifter88]

My rebuild aid = frsport.com!
for a general rebuild id just measure the crank, measure the bores and check the block and head for flatness.
-measure all the crank journals to determine if machining is necessary
-measure the bores to determine if/if not distorted/egg'd
-check the block and head with a straight edge for flatness. the fsm should have their specific tolerance.
if choosing MLS gasket for the head...
Have head and block both resurfaced keeping tolerance to less than .001" and at a 50RA (roughness average) or smoother
If going with ARP or any other aftermarket stud, follow the supplied, suggested torque specs from the product manufacturer torqing in OE manufacturers sequence. best way it torque twice in 3 sequences. ex, for torqing to 75ft lbs.
20-40-60 loosen all in reverse sequence (this is known as toque to yeild) and then torque again 25-50-75 ect you get the idea

[pogstar]

yes they come with arp bolts.

annddd ordered! thanks!

[s13drifter88]

@float_6969

It was my opinion bro

no need to get your panties all bunched up

Its a 20 year old motor, im trying to save him heartacke. All I hear is stuff like oil pumps going out or certain valvetrain parts and no one can find it for 3 months. If he wants to build it let him. You came in and corrected most of what I said, but also agreed with parts of it.

There ya go.

I rocked my CA fresh off the shipping palet hard as faqk!!! No problems what-so-ever. Check my build thread. Youll see theres no difficulty in finding parts. Ohh, and theyre ALL Tomei, Pauter, HKS and ARP. LOLZ at you sir!

[s13drifter88]

300 for rods is too much for me, as I'd prefer to spend that on something else for my car

My plan is to rebuild the engine in stock(w/o turbo) using pulsar nx ca18de parts and a bit more from other engines.

Here is what I was thinking:

camshafts - stock (iirc, exhaust camshaft from ca18de)

crankshaft - leaving the current ca18de crank

pistons - found some @ a good price in Australia...look stock and new.

piston rings - pulsar nx

connecting rods - pulsar nx (found remaned)

connecting rod bearings - pulsar nx

crankshaft (main?) bearings - pulsar nx

valve intake - pulsar nx

valve exhaust - only ca18det?

timing belt tensioner - pulsar nx

idler pulley - pulsar nx

valve guides intake - (maxima a32 (vq20/30de), also vq35de, vq40de, ca16,ca18)

valve guides exhaust - (primera p10 (sr20de, pretty much any sr20de engine)

gaskets - either cometic or nissan oem

injectors - leaving stock for now

water pump - ca18et

oil pump - ca18de

alternator - '91 ka24e

starter - '89 pulsar or '86 200sx/stanza

p/s pump - I suppose electric pump

a/c compressor - any matching to the stock one (forgot the correct model)

engine mounts - I currently have subaru mounts, they are in good condition and I'm going to leave them

sensors and other engine electric stuff - replace with new parts

I'm not sure what else should be replaced in case of total overhaul, so suggestions and comments are welcome

You can prob find the majority of your parts at comparable or better prices at frsport.com and probably a better selection as well.
ACL bearings turned out to be cheaper from frsport than Auto Zone bearings and I bought the race compound too. I got my rings with the pistons but theyre Supertech gas nitrided rings and they were only $60