HOW did you start your 240 mods?

[Accurit]

so many different pathes taken...

:thinker

[nismo7]

After spending several thousand dollars on my 1993 fastback for upgrading all suspension parts (whiteline adjustable sway bars, KYB's, eibachs, front and rear sway bars all bushings, end links, control arms etc..),wheels, Tires, dual friction clutch, cross drilled rotors and kevlar brake pads, Seats from a 96 240, timing chain kit, cold air induction, I have decided to save my money and buy a 6spd G35!! It will still outperform what I have done so far and have a warranty and seat four comfortably. Go figure. I hope to keep it for autoX.

[Accurit]

After spending several thousand dollars on my 1993 fastback for upgrading all suspension parts (whiteline adjustable sway bars, KYB's, eibachs, front and rear sway bars all bushings, end links, control arms etc..),wheels, Tires, dual friction clutch, cross drilled rotors and kevlar brake pads, Seats from a 96 240, timing chain kit, cold air induction, I have decided to save my money and buy a 6spd G35!! It will still outperform what I have done so far and have a warranty and seat four comfortably. Go figure. I hope to keep it for autoX.

i m dying for the spring autox the winter ones here in philly are on sats so i can't make those.....i been autoxing my subie for 3 years......so i can't wait to do my S14 soon!!!

[nb240le]

Well the first thing was suspension, not installed yet though.I am also buying intake and catback before the spring.Wheel were on the car. Bodykit will be over the winter. It is too expensive, especially when I am goign to be building a house this summer. But little by little the car will continue to grow.

[candela]

Oh ya, nice post :ylsuper

After I did the s13 the first mod was SR, fmic, 3" back, FP...etc etc and I walways wish I had dones suspension first. I was tapped for money and ended up comprimising my goal to have Teins and got some crappy springs for it instead....

Now that that project is over with i have my new 95' SE and the FIRST thing (since I have fixed stuff) is going to be the Tein HE's. I would like to get those on, then do my brakes (X-drilled replacemnts, SS lines) then for the SR/RB....

Quote »yup cant have headers and a turbo...[/quote] Oh and yes you can have headers on a turbo car.... most will come with some sort of manifold which you all know, but there are tons of people runnign custom4-1 turbo headers that make awesome topend gains...

[Chingon]

elec. fan and intake. Now working on front 300zx brakes, and come spring break I'll do the rears and possible vlsd.

[Accurit]

yeah that 300Z brake conversion seems tempting......

i saw somewhere for 800 for the brembo rotors and 300 calipers front is this a good price??

anyone have a decent pic of the greddy front lip for the zenki S14?

thanks everyone for your input....=)

Acc

[Nathan]

most will come with some sort of manifold which you all know, but there are tons of people runnign custom4-1 turbo headers that make awesome topend gains...

Well, the convention around here is that headers are NA, manifolds are FI Its not really incorrect to say say "turbo header" but its just not too common.

[crzycav86]

yeah that 300Z brake conversion seems tempting......

i saw somewhere for 800 for the brembo rotors and 300 calipers front is this a good price??

800 for the fronts only? I wouldn't go for it. Silviawerks is having a special on them: http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....52027

...and even with that price, you could save 100-200+ by sourcing out all the parts yourself, rather than buying the whole kit as a package.

[TXMike240]

After spending several thousand dollars on my 1993 fastback for upgrading all suspension parts (whiteline adjustable sway bars, KYB's, eibachs, front and rear sway bars all bushings, end links, control arms etc..),wheels, Tires, dual friction clutch, cross drilled rotors and kevlar brake pads, Seats from a 96 240, timing chain kit, cold air induction, I have decided to save my money and buy a 6spd G35!! It will still outperform what I have done so far and have a warranty and seat four comfortably. Go figure. I hope to keep it for autoX.

You did something wrong then brother, cause I've got a Tanabe Pro ss coilover setup and Tanabe tension rods and even with stock tires and 16" wheels will still outrun 350z, 911 carrera and c5 vettes in the handling department. Of course, one butt-hurt driver shoots past me when the road straightens out. I haven't even put on the under chassis brace or front/rr strut bars yet. What are you basing your performance comparison on?

[sr20power]

i went with suspension first....pretty much what my signature says.

next is to move the battery to the back and make the piping to move the k&n to the other side.

then it would be to get a rear strut bar from JIC (probably go w/ the aluminum one, since it would be covered) but need to find out how much bigger the cf is compared to the aluminum. the front JIC cf strut bar is huge, i didn't think it was that big :asmile

then its up in the air, maybe a pulley set or or save for an aftermarket LSD (the VLSD is getting weaker when i autoX with the Falkens.) or if something breaks, that reminds me, i have an oil leak by the timing chain cover.

so that's going to get fixed, as soon as i got over this freak'n cold!

[spec-u-later]

thanks everyone...

spec-u-later

what kinda LSD did you get? KAAZ? Cusco?

Stock s13 sylvia. I'll upgrade later but this will do for now.

[wickedpelf]

yup im starting on suspension now, i just got a set of KYB shocks...next thing to come is strut bars...then coilovers nad suggestions on what brands to get on anything?

[TXMike240]

yup im starting on suspension now, i just got a set of KYB shocks...next thing to come is strut bars...then coilovers nad suggestions on what brands to get on anything?

If you just bought shocks/struts, you want to buy a performance spring set, not coilovers. If you are planning to upgrade to coilovers (which a lot of shops, dealers will tell you can at times be uncomfortable on the street) later, take the shocks back. Or since you have them and are not taking your car to the track soon (or ever?) get a good set of performance springs. I would ask around what springs people run with KYB. When upgrading to stiffer springs it's important to have the proper dampening of the shock to help control the spring and thus have everything work in harmony. This is one reason I went with a coilover setup. I let the manufacturer do the R&D to figure out what shock rates work best with my spring rates. So, ask around. What I had planned to get before I got a good deal on a coiover setup was Tanabe GF210 springs and Tokico shocks as recomemded by the dealer http://projectsilvia.com , becuase that's the setup he has on his personal car (well, with their DF210 springs, which are a little softer and drop the car more).

So, get springs to go with ur shocks, then go for the strut bars, sway bars and or a front under chasis brace. I'm very happy with my Tanabe parts so far witch include the coilovers and tension rods and will be addind rear camber arms and front camber mounts along with strut bar. When u shop for springs, ask around if people had problems with too much negative camber. If they did, you'll need the parts I just mentioned and they get expensive.

I hope that helps and doesn't confuse you more about where to put your money. Just remember, you usually get what u pay for.:eyecrazy

[Queenskid]

Cold air intake and a carbon fiber hood some body hit my old one

[themadscientist]

Well this 240 mod starts with a big cup of coffee in the morning

[Accurit]

800 for the fronts only? I wouldn't go for it. Silviawerks is having a special on them: http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....52027

...and even with that price, you could save 100-200+ by sourcing out all the parts yourself, rather than buying the whole kit as a package.

thanks man....whew....yeah thouught about hitting up junkyards and people parting out 300Z's

[Accurit]

i went with suspension first....pretty much what my signature says.

next is to move the battery to the back and make the piping to move the k&n to the other side.

i thouught about that too...why did they bring the pipe all the way around and rather just made the intake close to the throttle body and just make a heat shield for it having the battery there would help the balance a lil bit but Jspec wise its on the same side as the driver....(hope i didn t reverse it, can't remember)

only prob would be the MAF....adding some extra wire to it