I have a 92 240sx with ka24de that i'm rebuilding. Well im new at this and when i took the head off i did notice there a few hoses connected to the back, right next to the firewall. What i didn't do was mark where all the hoses went and now I'm kinda stuck and frustrated becuase i can't seem to find anything to help me. I have looked at the FSM and searched the forum. Did i miss something??
Also, Does anyone have any pictures of the back of the engine that they can share with me?? I'm think this may help me.
Hoses Behind Head
The FSM helps with the vacuum hose drawing i found on page ef & ec 8 but i'm having a hard time trying to trace everything back to the Solenoid Valve Bracket. Thats were all my hoses are disconnected.
Anyone have any insight to what these hoses supposed to connect to??
1) Canister vacuum line2) Canister purge line3) AIV control solenoid vavle vacuum line4) AIV control solenoid valve atmospheric line
Anyone have any insight to what these hoses supposed to connect to??
1) Canister vacuum line2) Canister purge line3) AIV control solenoid vavle vacuum line4) AIV control solenoid valve atmospheric line
Ok, i used this vacuum diagram that was emailed to me and put all the hoses as it shows. Then i finally put all the remaining pieces and fluids in. I went to try and start it. It cranks ok but doesnt fire.
Here's what i've checked. 1) Distributor Timing - Used the faq on the website and I checked by pulling a shark plug and seeing if it sparked. This is ok. 2) Checked to see if there was fuel pressure to the injectors. Had a friend pinch the tube to the injectors while i tried to start. Ok here. 3) Thought the electrical connectors were dirty. Bought some elecetrical cleaners , sprayed all the connectors i could see. Still no go. 4) tried jumping the car to see if battery is the problem. No go. 5) Tried to push the car and pop the clutch. Nope, didnt work.
I'm out of ideas. Did i miss something?? Anyone have any ideas on what to try next??
Oh and i was told that the diagram was for a SOHC while i have a DOHC. Could this be my problem?? My FSM doesn't show this type of diagram.
Here's what i've checked. 1) Distributor Timing - Used the faq on the website and I checked by pulling a shark plug and seeing if it sparked. This is ok. 2) Checked to see if there was fuel pressure to the injectors. Had a friend pinch the tube to the injectors while i tried to start. Ok here. 3) Thought the electrical connectors were dirty. Bought some elecetrical cleaners , sprayed all the connectors i could see. Still no go. 4) tried jumping the car to see if battery is the problem. No go. 5) Tried to push the car and pop the clutch. Nope, didnt work.
I'm out of ideas. Did i miss something?? Anyone have any ideas on what to try next??
Oh and i was told that the diagram was for a SOHC while i have a DOHC. Could this be my problem?? My FSM doesn't show this type of diagram.
We'll the fuel has been in the car since last summer. This is when the car started leaking coolant like crazy and i decided to replace a few gaskets. We'll like the brillant man i am, i thought i'd fill the tank full of gas. By the winter i figured that i'd better put some stabil before the gas got bad.
We'll i did what you said, except i used some starter fluid i had laying around. The car seemed to have made some low tone burping noises. So i figured it has to be the gas. I also thought it would not be a bad idea to replace the fuel filter too.
It took me 4 hours to syphon the gas out. In the movies it always looks so easy and takes such a short time. Well I got the old gas out and put the new gas in. Its too late to try and start the car. I will have to wait till tomorrow after work. Hopefully this will work.
We'll i did what you said, except i used some starter fluid i had laying around. The car seemed to have made some low tone burping noises. So i figured it has to be the gas. I also thought it would not be a bad idea to replace the fuel filter too.
It took me 4 hours to syphon the gas out. In the movies it always looks so easy and takes such a short time. Well I got the old gas out and put the new gas in. Its too late to try and start the car. I will have to wait till tomorrow after work. Hopefully this will work.
No, all i did was try the starter fluid. Then i went a got a new fuel filter and took all the gas out.
How would i check the fuel injectors?? The only way that comes to mind is to take one out and let it shoot into a bucket. Do you know of a better way??
Also, how much of a spray should i see??? Heavy or just a fine mist??
Thanks for all your help so far
How would i check the fuel injectors?? The only way that comes to mind is to take one out and let it shoot into a bucket. Do you know of a better way??
Also, how much of a spray should i see??? Heavy or just a fine mist??
Thanks for all your help so far
to check the injectors unbolt the whole rail from the intake manifold and lay it so the tips point over the valve cover. disconnect and ground your coil wire to the body..so you dont start a fire. then turn the key on. all 4 injectors should spray for a sec when the key is turned from off to on. then crank it .all 4 injectors should spray again. but they should stop spraying when you stop cranking. the spray pattern should be fairly consistant between all injectors. the pattern should be similiar to that of a aerosol can when spray it.at this point i wouldn't worry to much about the volume that discharges. just the fact that their discharging fuel is what you need to know.
Ok, i was ready to try this and my battery was dead. I left the dome light on by mistake 
So i need to recharge the battery, because even jumping it didn't work.
So while the battery was charging, i looked at my vacuum hoses again and noticed i had a couple of hoses crossed. could the hoses being in the wrong spots cause the car not to start?? The last time i tried i didn't use the starter fluid and the car emitted a low toned boom ing sound by itself.
Also, am i in any danger of hydrolocking?? I'm mean i have turned the key many times close to 5-6 per day. I don't want to cuase anymore damage.
So i need to recharge the battery, because even jumping it didn't work. So while the battery was charging, i looked at my vacuum hoses again and noticed i had a couple of hoses crossed. could the hoses being in the wrong spots cause the car not to start?? The last time i tried i didn't use the starter fluid and the car emitted a low toned boom ing sound by itself.
Also, am i in any danger of hydrolocking?? I'm mean i have turned the key many times close to 5-6 per day. I don't want to cuase anymore damage.
yea you can run an injector cleaner through the fuel system at the fuel filter. make sure you pull the fuel pump fuse when doing it. check auto part stores for the cleaner see if they have any 3M injector cleaner kits. you should pick up a noid light first though and check to see if the ecm is telling it to fire. i got a noid light for gm vehicles since the parts houses dont carry one specific to nissan. it works just fine
Well i got injector cleaner and cleaned up all four injectors. Put them back on the car and turned the key. The car fired up for about 2 seconds and then died imeddiately. We'll now we are getting somewhere. I gave it another turn of the key and nothing, same as before. So i took off the spark plugs and looked in each cylinder. There was a pool of fuel sitting in each cylinder. I saw this before and thought it was from me trying to many times.
I took off the injector assembly and decided to have a buddy turn the key and watch the injectors again. They sprayed, oh boy did they spray. It not a mist but four forcefull streams. So it looks like i have to get new injectors. This was probably the problem from the beginning.
Anyone know who sells some cheap injectors??
I took off the injector assembly and decided to have a buddy turn the key and watch the injectors again. They sprayed, oh boy did they spray. It not a mist but four forcefull streams. So it looks like i have to get new injectors. This was probably the problem from the beginning.
Anyone know who sells some cheap injectors??
well it sounds like your getting somewhere with it. it tried to start now. thats progress. did you compare your new injector spray pattern to the old ones to see if it was better before you installed them? and did you clean the plugs incase they are fouled out? also double check a couple things like your plug wires are they all at the correct cyl's, is your chain alignment correct,timing setting, i dont know how many times you tried to start it. but try doing a clear flood(hold the pedal to the floor and crank it see if it'll fire? if you have to keep the throttle partially down to keep it running its possible your base idle is to low.
Well here's an update. I got sick and tired of messing with the car so i sent it to a mechanic. He told me i had bent valves and wanted to charge me $1500 to replace all the valves and put on a new timing chain. We'll screw that i told him. I rather redo all that work myself.
So i have the car at home now and i have taken off the cylinder head. How can i tell if i got a bent valve? from the posts i've read others have seen scratch marks on the pistons. I don't see such a thing. I really do not want to take out the valves unless i really need to.
So i have the car at home now and i have taken off the cylinder head. How can i tell if i got a bent valve? from the posts i've read others have seen scratch marks on the pistons. I don't see such a thing. I really do not want to take out the valves unless i really need to.
Ok, i poured in some water in the intake ports while the head was on its side. Nothing, no leak. The valve butts up right next to the port and i don't see any fluid trying to get out or anything. I did the same to the exhaust side and got the same results. I also did not notice any dents or impact marks on the valves or on the cylinder heads.
So i think that guy was thinking it was bent valves was wrong. I was so shocked by the cost of repair that i didnt ask how he knew i had bent valves. I'm guessing he did a compression test and saw that each cylinder failed. Thats the only thing i can think of. In my opinon, the only thing i can think of is my timing being off and the valves not closing at the right times. Before i took the distributor off i tried to crank the engine to top dead center, but i stoped because i felt binding. So i think my timing is off . Whats your thoughts??
Also, since i'm going to completely take off my chain i might as well change it. I really do not want to spend much more on parts but i would like to get the job done right. Should i spring for the timing chain kit or just get the upper and lower timing chains??
So i think that guy was thinking it was bent valves was wrong. I was so shocked by the cost of repair that i didnt ask how he knew i had bent valves. I'm guessing he did a compression test and saw that each cylinder failed. Thats the only thing i can think of. In my opinon, the only thing i can think of is my timing being off and the valves not closing at the right times. Before i took the distributor off i tried to crank the engine to top dead center, but i stoped because i felt binding. So i think my timing is off . Whats your thoughts??
Also, since i'm going to completely take off my chain i might as well change it. I really do not want to spend much more on parts but i would like to get the job done right. Should i spring for the timing chain kit or just get the upper and lower timing chains??
Ok, i got to the point where i need to take off the crankshaft pulley. I looked in the fsm and it talks about a suitable tool, it looks an claw with a threaded shaft in the center. Now i've never used one of these before, can you tell im a newbie, and i'm not sure what this will do for me. Will it remove the nut or loosen something else?? Do I still need to take a socket and breaker bar to take off the big nut thats on there afterwards??
Also, manual doesnt say anything about alignment marks, is the pulley keyed or should i mark it before removing it??
Also, manual doesnt say anything about alignment marks, is the pulley keyed or should i mark it before removing it??
please dont pour water into any part of your engine besides the coolant system. things dont work well when they rust.
if your sure all the injectors are firing check your timing, did you put the chain back on correctly, did you put the distributor in correctly? (must be aligned at TDC for cylinder #1)
if your sure all the injectors are firing check your timing, did you put the chain back on correctly, did you put the distributor in correctly? (must be aligned at TDC for cylinder #1)
yes fluid not leaking from your valves when you filled the ports indicates you donot have bent valves. the tool they are showing you is a pulley remover. take the crank bolt out remove its washer reinstall the bolt partially do not tighten it. install the pulley remover and screw it in till it pulls the pulley off. a method i use if the crank isnt too rusted is to place 2 long pry bars behind either side of the pulley and gently rock back and forth with the bars to work the pulley off. 90% of the time thats all it takes they arent pressed on. but if your car has ever been in the salt belt you arent getting if off with the pry bar method
After i poured the water i tried to dry the ports as quickly as possible and sprayed that pentrating oil in each port afterwards.
Ok, so break the nut loose first and then use the pully puller. Damn, i gotta get another tool.
What's your opinion on replacing just the timing chain and gettting the kit??
Ok, so break the nut loose first and then use the pully puller. Damn, i gotta get another tool.
What's your opinion on replacing just the timing chain and gettting the kit??
Alright, i thought since i was taking the whole thing off might as well change the chain, but i will look at the guides.
I didn't do much today. I just put some penetrating lube on the nut to help loosen it. The nut does have some light rust on it, nothing too major.
Would i use the pry bar or long screw driver to take off the pulley?? Sorry but i'm not following you??
I will get the pulley puller tomorrow and a long breaker bar from work and give it a try after work tomorrow.
I didn't do much today. I just put some penetrating lube on the nut to help loosen it. The nut does have some light rust on it, nothing too major.
Would i use the pry bar or long screw driver to take off the pulley?? Sorry but i'm not following you??
I will get the pulley puller tomorrow and a long breaker bar from work and give it a try after work tomorrow.