Medium Density Fiberboard - similar to what's found on the back of bookcases and dressers, but that's only 1/8" thick and only finished on one side. In 1/4" it's really good sturdy stuff and easy to work with. The Home Depot stuff I bought is finished on both sides.Haitian_King wrote:Uh, what's MDF?
Sweat, heat, solar radiation and hot air are real leather eaters.Lifted79CJ7 wrote: I am used to driving a Jeep with no A/C so I really don't care. Heck, this is HotLanta, down here we're always hot!
Jack
Thanks! I'm just glad I haven't bored you all to death with my shenanigans and tom fooleries yet!GseaQ wrote:Hi Jack,
You're like a breath of fresh air here. I enjoy reading your exploits!
Yeah, I am doing something similar. I have busted out the dremel tool and picked up some 1/4" MDF as you did. I have carved off the front and back of the pod and will try attaching the MDF to the front. I dunno, might stick out too far, just gotta measure and see. It was kind of hard to cut apart the way I did - using a dremel and a sawzall. Don't worry, pics to come!GseaQ wrote:I put 6.5" Alpines in the doors of our '92. I didn't bother trying to use the original Bose enclosures, though. I bought some 1/4" MDF at Home Depot and used the Bose enclosures as a template to mark and cut the MDF. I mounted the Alpines in the MDF using the spacers that came with the speakers to be sure to have minimum depth. There's lots of room behind the original grills for the speakers.
Thanks for the heads up Glenn, I will be crossing that bridge soon enough, needless to say. I will have to replace a lot of hoses as well. The previous owner replaced the condensor about two years ago. I dunno, haven't really looked at it all that much - will just have to wait until it warms up some before I want to dive into it - lots of other things to address first!GseaQ wrote:Don't even waste your time with the AC compressor. They were a known weakness and break internally. I bought one on eBay last year from a seller down your way for about $85 - rebuilt with a 1 year warranty. That one replaced one I paid $600 to the AC shop that did the conversion for me 5 years previous. The year's about up and it still works. Even if I buy one from this guy every other year it's a good deal (less than $100 to have the R134a done after I install).
Amen to that! The guy I got the car from had it sitting in his driveway for a year in the Altanta heat and never touched it. It definitely did it's number on the interior. I have been working hard to restore the leather (which I am continuing to learn about), but as you know, there is only so much you can do. I'll get the A/C fixed when time and the funds allow. Right now I just don't want to keep throwing money at this thing unless I have to.maxnix wrote:Sweat, heat, solar radiation and hot air are real leather eaters.
Man, if its a rust bucket, better address the rust first so your efforts are not in vain. Mechanical rehabilitation is much less expensive than rust remediation.
Hey Issac,Thanks for the compliments and the tips! The wrench turning isn't that hard - you just have to get in there and do it is all. Plus I've worked on enough vehicles were I am pretty confident in my work and know when I am in over my head and know what jobs I don't want to do.Issac wrote:I cannot help you with any mechanical stuff, but have a litte experience on the leather situation you are in.
So we know what you don't advocate for leather care. What DO you recommend? Would it be best to just re-upholster and start over? This time taking better care of the leather?maxnix wrote:HK has at least read some of the previous posts, but like all young people and a few old ones, still has illusions which he feels necessary to maintain. It took us a while and it will him also.
Back to leather care, on of the substances I would encourage any one to not use is anything alkaline, expecially saddle soap. If is impossible to remove entirely, and will age a crack your leather. While mink oil is an excellent restorative, it also will transfer to any material to which is in conatact. It also will darken lighter leather several shades.
Ummmm.... the B&M stacked plates like 70264 or 70268 are more efficient and have a high viscosity (cold ATF) bypass.Lifted79CJ7 wrote:And I ordered up a cooler also for the trans....
Jack
It's basic - surface area and airflow = cooler. I chose the slim line version on purpose for where I want to put it. You also forgot to mention the need to do a BTU rating comparison as well in regards to your transmissions heating trends and size, and then decide what your needs are. The cooler you are reffering to is only 13% more efficient but costs 52% more. Hmmmmm. I will admit that the B&M is a better constructed product, though.maxnix wrote:Ummmm.... the B&M stacked plates like 70264 or 70268 are more efficient and have a high viscosity (cold ATF) bypass.
But almost anything is better than nothing.
Your energy and dedication is to be admired, but you could learn a lot by reading some of the old posts.
Hey Warspite, Thanks for the heads up! Don't happen to have some exhaust manifolds laying around do ya? I'm happy with the new system, but thanks for the offer!Warspite wrote:Jack- I'm in Stone Mountain, and have a '94. Someone in the local Craigslist (www.craigslist.org) under Auto Parts is selling the original 10CD Sony changer, I think for $65. And, I pulled my original '94 head unit, so it's yours for a song. I also have extra stock wheels (BBS) for the Q.
Yeah, I pulled the entire system - from head unit to all the speakers. I did some messing around on the test bench, and sure enough, it was the front two amplifiers that were shot. The speakers in the front were ok, just had bad amps. The rear speakers and head unit were in great shape. Speaking of, if anyone needs the back speakers, let me know for they are in the trash right now!Warspite wrote:The door speakers have their amps piggybacked, so when you remove the speaker from the door (and rear deck as well) they come out as one assembly. A blown speaker usually won't squel, or do anything for that matter, so either the head unit was toast, sending just that squeal to be amplified, or both door amps are shot.
But you will never know for how long, so what's the point?Lifted79CJ7 wrote:PS - My alternator still ran like a champ, as did all the other parts I replaced with "junk/non Infiniti brand" equipment.
One must choose his machine well! The best advice for a newbie on this board is how to buy the correct car.Q45tech wrote:Man against machine and machines win in the end.
Man you're getting into more money with this car than you bargained for...what's that, another couple hundred bucks now?Lifted79CJ7 wrote:On a side note, I did finally get to put a fresh full tank of gas in her and boy what a difference!
Damn Jeep guysLifted79CJ7 wrote:rear diff
Who gives a ****? It was a free car that I put ~$1500 and drove for half a year. Lord you really are the definition of Debby Downer from SNL. And if you have forgotten, all the parts had lifetime warranties, so kiss my grits if I know how to turn a wrench and spend my money wisely? I chose the car b/c it was FREE. If I wanted to, I could have put $5g in that car and it would have been in awesome condition and lasted another 100k miles. I simply chose to something that is way more versatile and looks a whole hell of a lot better. Don't get me wrong, the interior of the Q beats the Jeeps by a million, but hell, I have a factory warranty, so the only wrench I'll be turning is for upgrades. The point? I'm smart with my money. Take your half empty glass view on life and stick it up your tailpipe.maxnix wrote:But you will never know for how long, so what's the point?
Nah, most of you guys are great and I love reading these builds! You can't get rid of me that easy!RAP wrote:End of story ?