With tires meeting OEM minimum load rating specifications and correct rolling diameter? How much over stock wheel and tire combination does it weigh?gjh20 wrote: i have put 22's on numerous F50's at my shop with no problems.
No one needs 22" wheels, they just saw Poop Daddy's Hummer and wanted to hang with the middle school drop outs too.gammer_ghn wrote:Why do you need 22" rims if you dont know how to put it on and have it work for you?
Any wheel manufacturer who does publishes neither weight, strength nor manufacturing techniques for its wheels is not to be trusted.carnal_c30 wrote:... and if you absolutely must go with 22"s go with these guys
http://www.vipmodular.com they know exactly what it takes...
And wheel weight, strength, tire load rating and weight. All the important information.elwesso wrote:
We really need to know the wheel width, offset, and tire size.
maxnix wrote:Any wheel manufacturer who does publishes neither weight, strength nor manufacturing techniques for its wheels is not to be trusted.
Seems like they describe the manufacturing technique??VIP Modular wrote:... the structure of each wheel begins life as a forged aluminum disc of aerospace grade 6061 heat treated to a T6 hardness. From there, the life of the wheel progresses onto a CNC (Computer Numerical Control) mill where the design is machined into existence. Once machined and quality tested, the VIP Modular centers are then sent to a separate facility to be personalized with plating or powder coating procedures. Then, the centers are hand assembled at VIP Modular with 6061-T6 rim halves using only the highest quality fasteners and valve stems, and then hand torqued to exact specifications.
Oh....my....Q45denver wrote:Why stop at 22's when 24's will fit?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/778712627.html
Qhetto Q !!!!!!paranoidjack wrote:
Oh....my....
No weight or strength specifications. Titanium bolts like OZ racing? What kind of seal? HRE are real bad about sealilng. Expensive but crap. Why they are not raced.Rex wrote:
Seems like they describe the manufacturing technique??
A little research would show you these are high end (MB/BMW) 3 piece forged wheels.
Not that I think 20" (or bigger) wheels belong on a G50/Y33.
Oh, gross!Q45denver wrote:Why stop at 22's when 24's will fit?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/778712627.html
The wheels are certainly bad, but the reason my lunch is now embedded in my keyboard is that HORRIBLE wood grain kit. It's not the wood grain itself, it's thar particular kit. With that one stick-on part, the Q went from lux to Ford Taurus in zero seconds flat.Q45denver wrote:Why stop at 22's when 24's will fit?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/778712627.html
qship96 wrote:Nothing a $3.99 can of silver/charcoal spraypaint cant improve, except the size.
Not a fan of the color etc, but the thing that really hits me is that to pull off 22's on a Q at all... you need to be lower with more camber and some form of aero... if you were going for the flush look smaller/higher offsets would have been a lot better in my opiniongjh20 wrote:i figure that since everyone is already on their "what is too big" kick, that this is as good a time as any to debut my new changes to my '98.... the wheels are NC Forged 7-spoke (ignore the MHT ctr caps, i have custom floating ctr caps that i'm going to paint/install once i redo the whole car). fronts are 22x9, et15, w/235/30-22 ToyoProxes PX4s. rears are 22x10.5, et15, w/265/30-22 PX4s. the wheel color is burnt orange (don't ask why, i wanted it different. SOOOO tired of blk on blk, blk/machined, blk/chrome! no pumpkin/halloween jokes plz. a coworkr of mine is the lamest dude on earth & has worn em out). i have no rubbing or scrubbing of any kind. i can turn lock to lock with no problems. the car is also lowered 1.25". i have 4" front lips, 6.5" rear. the effect on the car is stunning. i know its not you guys style preference, but mechanically the car functions beautifully & there is NO OTHER Q that makes S-classes & 7 series pay as much attention....
Two quotes that tell us this poster does not undertand correct tire alignment for wear and performance and has no clue about unsprung rotating mass.rbsileighty wrote:... you need to be lower with more camber and some form of aero...
As for a lot of the comments... these cars are ~3900lb... heavy wheels aren't going to be a huge deal so roll what you want in my opinion
Lewis, sounds like you got a wheel package that would fit on the 300C/Charger. If that's the case, that's where your problem is. What size tires are you using? To run 22" wheels on the F50, you have to use very specific tire size and possibly even certain brands depending on the actual tire specification.lewisgs22 wrote:Hello guys,
I put on 22's on my f50 and the wheel rubs against the strut base/lower portion of the spring. what are ppl doing to remedy this situation. I really dont want to return the wheels.
thank you,
Lewis
Ha... this works well when you leave out the part about the wheels on my S13maxnix wrote:Two quotes that tell us this poster does not undertand correct tire alignment for wear and performance and has no clue about unsprung rotating mass.
Front tire load rating of 90 is 1323 lbs. at 50 psi, well below the the OEM recommended minimum of 94-95 1477 lbs.-1521 lbs.gjh20 wrote: fronts are 22x9, et15, w/235/30-22 ToyoProxes PX4s.
See... now that's helpfulmaxnix wrote:Front tire load rating of 90 is 1323 lbs. at 50 psi, well below the the OEM recommended minimum of 94-95 1477 lbs.-1521 lbs.
Shame people are more concerned with color and lip than proper alignment, strength, weight, what the owner's manual specifies as minimum, and never read the tire's sidewall.