help with 22's on 03 q45

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lewisgs22
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Hello guys,

I put on 22's on my f50 and the wheel rubs against the strut base/lower portion of the spring. what are ppl doing to remedy this situation. I really dont want to return the wheels.

thank you,

Lewis


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Rex
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Very few (if any) members run wheels that large.

My guess is you have 2 options, if there's enough outter clearance, run a small spacer to gain the necessary inner clearance. Or return them.

maxnix
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Lewis, be sure to complete your profile.

I guess you have to decide if wheels or your car i more important to you.

If your car was too fast before, you could sell it. If you prefer the wheels, you could build 4 uniclycles, I guess.

BLACKonBLACK98
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spacers.

BadQ45t
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You need to post the offsets of the rims. If you can return them, do it. If not stuck with them than looking into spacers.

If you can exchange them drop down to 20's in the right offset.

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gjh20
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other than wheel offset, i think the most crucial question is "what size tire do you have?". if the wheel is rubbing w/o a tire, then a spacer (preferably hub-centric, custom measured/machined to fit car AND wheel) is your only hope. i have put 22's on numerous F50's at my shop with no problems so i know its entirely possible with the correct fitment.

maxnix
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gjh20 wrote: i have put 22's on numerous F50's at my shop with no problems.
With tires meeting OEM minimum load rating specifications and correct rolling diameter? How much over stock wheel and tire combination does it weigh?
Modified by maxnix at 6:24 AM 8/6/2008

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gammer_ghn
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Why do you need 22" rims if you dont know how to put it on and have it work for you?

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spacers+extended studs depending on how bad it is

return the wheels if possible... and if you absolutely must go with 22"s go with these guys

http://www.vipmodular.com they know exactly what it takes...

and next time do your math before you buy!

maxnix
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gammer_ghn wrote:Why do you need 22" rims if you dont know how to put it on and have it work for you?
No one needs 22" wheels, they just saw Poop Daddy's Hummer and wanted to hang with the middle school drop outs too.
carnal_c30 wrote:... and if you absolutely must go with 22"s go with these guys

http://www.vipmodular.com they know exactly what it takes...
Any wheel manufacturer who does publishes neither weight, strength nor manufacturing techniques for its wheels is not to be trusted.

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elwesso
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bottom line is, the wheels are NOT suited for the car. Its like buying a pair of shoes and you bought them in wide instead of normal.. you would take them back and get normal, instead of just wearing 2 pairs of socks... You CAN wear 2 pair of socks but the shoes are never going to fit your feet how they should.

Same is true, even with spacers its just "making it work". Spacers generalyl arent a good idea, however you may not need that much spacing. If the wheels are brand new you probably want to return them. By the time you put in longer studs to adapt even a thin 5-10mm spacer, you're going to be in another 2-3 hours of labor for all 4 corners.

We really need to know the wheel width, offset, and tire size.

maxnix
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elwesso wrote:
We really need to know the wheel width, offset, and tire size.
And wheel weight, strength, tire load rating and weight. All the important information.

TBrack
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is the wheel or tire rubbing? you might have to get smaller tires, but I agree that 22 is way too big for these cars.

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Rex
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maxnix wrote:Any wheel manufacturer who does publishes neither weight, strength nor manufacturing techniques for its wheels is not to be trusted.
VIP Modular wrote:... the structure of each wheel begins life as a forged aluminum disc of aerospace grade 6061 heat treated to a T6 hardness. From there, the life of the wheel progresses onto a CNC (Computer Numerical Control) mill where the design is machined into existence. Once machined and quality tested, the VIP Modular centers are then sent to a separate facility to be personalized with plating or powder coating procedures. Then, the centers are hand assembled at VIP Modular with 6061-T6 rim halves using only the highest quality fasteners and valve stems, and then hand torqued to exact specifications.
Seems like they describe the manufacturing technique??

A little research would show you these are high end (MB/BMW) 3 piece forged wheels.

Not that I think 20" (or bigger) wheels belong on a G50/Y33.

Q45denver
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Why stop at 22's when 24's will fit?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/778712627.html

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paranoidjack
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Q45denver wrote:Why stop at 22's when 24's will fit?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/778712627.html
Oh....my....

qship96
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paranoidjack wrote:
Oh....my....
Qhetto Q !!!!!!

maxnix
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Rex wrote:
Seems like they describe the manufacturing technique??

A little research would show you these are high end (MB/BMW) 3 piece forged wheels.

Not that I think 20" (or bigger) wheels belong on a G50/Y33.
No weight or strength specifications. Titanium bolts like OZ racing? What kind of seal? HRE are real bad about sealilng. Expensive but crap. Why they are not raced.

Forging is good, but at what PSI? It all adds up. Basically, if a top team is not using it in an sanctioned racing series, it should be suspect. One can start at F1 and go down. Some, even Rays and especially Enkei, make some great wheels and some real average or even below average. BBS, Fikse, most OZ Racing, SSR, most Weds, very few Work are worth their price. Most others are poseur wheels for show and not go.
Modified by maxnix at 10:20 PM 8/7/2008

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szh
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Q45denver wrote:Why stop at 22's when 24's will fit?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/778712627.html
Oh, gross!

Z

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Q45denver wrote:Why stop at 22's when 24's will fit?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/778712627.html
The wheels are certainly bad, but the reason my lunch is now embedded in my keyboard is that HORRIBLE wood grain kit. It's not the wood grain itself, it's thar particular kit. With that one stick-on part, the Q went from lux to Ford Taurus in zero seconds flat.

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gjh20
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i figure that since everyone is already on their "what is too big" kick, that this is as good a time as any to debut my new changes to my '98.... the wheels are NC Forged 7-spoke (ignore the MHT ctr caps, i have custom floating ctr caps that i'm going to paint/install once i redo the whole car). fronts are 22x9, et15, w/235/30-22 ToyoProxes PX4s. rears are 22x10.5, et15, w/265/30-22 PX4s. the wheel color is burnt orange (don't ask why, i wanted it different. SOOOO tired of blk on blk, blk/machined, blk/chrome! no pumpkin/halloween jokes plz. a coworkr of mine is the lamest dude on earth & has worn em out). i have no rubbing or scrubbing of any kind. i can turn lock to lock with no problems. the car is also lowered 1.25". i have 4" front lips, 6.5" rear. the effect on the car is stunning. i know its not you guys style preference, but mechanically the car functions beautifully & there is NO OTHER Q that makes S-classes & 7 series pay as much attention....

NightRiderQ45
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Man, that's nice and classy. I didn't you say that you custom cut your springs for the drop. Once I'm back in the A again, I will give you a call asap! Email me....I want to speak with you about a couple of tire prices and maybe to drop mine. I have 20"s, so I would love to have mine dropped to kill some of the fender well space.

qship96
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Nothing a $3.99 can of silver/charcoal spraypaint cant improve, except the size.

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gjh20
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qship96 wrote:Nothing a $3.99 can of silver/charcoal spraypaint cant improve, except the size.

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rbsileighty
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gjh20 wrote:i figure that since everyone is already on their "what is too big" kick, that this is as good a time as any to debut my new changes to my '98.... the wheels are NC Forged 7-spoke (ignore the MHT ctr caps, i have custom floating ctr caps that i'm going to paint/install once i redo the whole car). fronts are 22x9, et15, w/235/30-22 ToyoProxes PX4s. rears are 22x10.5, et15, w/265/30-22 PX4s. the wheel color is burnt orange (don't ask why, i wanted it different. SOOOO tired of blk on blk, blk/machined, blk/chrome! no pumpkin/halloween jokes plz. a coworkr of mine is the lamest dude on earth & has worn em out). i have no rubbing or scrubbing of any kind. i can turn lock to lock with no problems. the car is also lowered 1.25". i have 4" front lips, 6.5" rear. the effect on the car is stunning. i know its not you guys style preference, but mechanically the car functions beautifully & there is NO OTHER Q that makes S-classes & 7 series pay as much attention....
Not a fan of the color etc, but the thing that really hits me is that to pull off 22's on a Q at all... you need to be lower with more camber and some form of aero... if you were going for the flush look smaller/higher offsets would have been a lot better in my opinion

As for a lot of the comments... these cars are ~3900lb... heavy wheels aren't going to be a huge deal so roll what you want in my opinion (coming from a guy with CE28N's on his S13 that weigh under 14.8lbs for 17x9F and a bit more for the 9.5's in the rear). That is of course unless you are making the car into a sports sedan... I'm all for lighter wheels, but I don't think heavier wheels are a huge deal on this car especially the F50's (they are huge!)

As for Lewis... sounds like you need a spacer if you must keep the wheel... if you have room between the fender and the outer edge of the tire/wheel that is... go to a reputable wheel shop in your area to see if you can get an "expert opinion" on how much you'll need and if you'll need to roll/pull the fender (I'd imagine there's a parcial hem on an F50 so probably not much you can do for a roll... but it's worth asking)

As for that "VIP Wheel page" they just look like another knockoff or carbon copy HRE/360 Forged company to me...

Side note:Is that a ASMA Shark I kit on that CSL? Not a fan of the look... but hella rare (which makes it cool in it's own way)! Thing needs wheels BIG TIME


Modified by rbsileighty at 7:27 PM 8/8/2008

maxnix
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rbsileighty wrote:... you need to be lower with more camber and some form of aero...

As for a lot of the comments... these cars are ~3900lb... heavy wheels aren't going to be a huge deal so roll what you want in my opinion
Two quotes that tell us this poster does not undertand correct tire alignment for wear and performance and has no clue about unsprung rotating mass.

marksport
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lewisgs22 wrote:Hello guys,

I put on 22's on my f50 and the wheel rubs against the strut base/lower portion of the spring. what are ppl doing to remedy this situation. I really dont want to return the wheels.

thank you,

Lewis
Lewis, sounds like you got a wheel package that would fit on the 300C/Charger. If that's the case, that's where your problem is. What size tires are you using? To run 22" wheels on the F50, you have to use very specific tire size and possibly even certain brands depending on the actual tire specification.

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rbsileighty
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maxnix wrote:Two quotes that tell us this poster does not undertand correct tire alignment for wear and performance and has no clue about unsprung rotating mass.
Ha... this works well when you leave out the part about the wheels on my S13

This is a Q45... not a M5... not even close. Don't get me wrong I love this car (which is why I'm looking at getting one or just doing the payment thing again and getting an E60), but being a Q45 guy you should know the VIP heritage of this line from Nissan. Maybe that guy's choice in brands isn't there, but the look is on the right track.

I'm just trying to help... even if I don't like the particular details the owner's chosen... b/c that's what forums were started for in my opinion.

Maybe the best thing to have done was to move this to the VIP forum instead of bash the guy... and people you know nothing about who try to help make what he wants work for him

maxnix
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gjh20 wrote: fronts are 22x9, et15, w/235/30-22 ToyoProxes PX4s.
Front tire load rating of 90 is 1323 lbs. at 50 psi, well below the the OEM recommended minimum of 94-95 1477 lbs.-1521 lbs.

Shame people are more concerned with color and lip than proper alignment, strength, weight, what the owner's manual specifies as minimum, and never read the tire's sidewall.


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rbsileighty
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maxnix wrote:Front tire load rating of 90 is 1323 lbs. at 50 psi, well below the the OEM recommended minimum of 94-95 1477 lbs.-1521 lbs.

Shame people are more concerned with color and lip than proper alignment, strength, weight, what the owner's manual specifies as minimum, and never read the tire's sidewall.
See... now that's helpful


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