HELP! troubles with my ka-t. Was running perfect not even a week ago and nowthis

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:10 PM 11/28/2009

[trackslut240]

mine has been running great, except the stall issue on takeoff. i might have to recirc too, but i dont know if want to lose the sound. drive thrus suck for me, i start it three times before i am done getting coffee. i do hear it surge a couple times on slow speeds, prolly coz the ssqv dont open. will have to experiment with vacuum source, currently have it tied in to the fpr line. the screamer pipe on the t25 is awesome, i am running a silencer on the ebay 35 inch exhuast(no that is no typo, my exhaust pip is as big as the moon.... .. )

hey h-eater did u ohm out the injectors? i am sure u did. prolly get them flow tested would be the definite answer to find out if all of them are good, bad or ugly.

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:11 PM 11/28/2009

[Doya]

Get yourself a vac. block, it's not good to T off of everything like that. I made one out of a soup can, I put it right between my brake booster line.

[h-eater240]

i've considered it and alll...but i can't get vacuum on anyline....and can have tees removed while car is running and nothing happens....that's weirding me out.

[trackslut240]

if its one of those boost gauges with a the plactic kinda thin pipe, a little kink in it will block that pipe. i had it and had to be super careful to keep it as straight as possible and around a corner(i had to keep it curved so it wont kink). i hated it so i got the greddy with the electronic sender. but the boost gauge worked, it would never boost higher than 1 to 3 psi, even with my air compressor cranked to 30psi. greddy jumped like mad to peg the needle. in my techtom(not techtom techedge, i think.. ) the gauge reads from 10.40 to 19.40, and i would say 16 is lean. but dont know about plx. is there a way they should be calibrated before install? coz the techtom(whatever its name is) needs to be calibrated before install.did u track the vacuum pipes to see if they are connected to the source(manifold). my setup is vacuum from manifold to fpr with a tee for bov and boost gauge. then on the hot pipe coming from turbo, i have the wastegate on that plus "nissanfanatics overboost switch". tonight i will try the two step launch control built into ecu...hopefully i wont blow anything up..

rick its time to check each and every vacuum pipe and by check means blow thru it and have no restriction.

[h-eater240]

bump

[WDRacing]

Finish installing the exhaust system, be it new or the stock one. Quit half assing everything...that's the problem.

I assure you, there is vacuum in the intake manifold. I don't know what kind of gauges you're using, but if it's sitting at 2, it's broken.

Connect the boost gauge to (1) T fitting that's tapped into the FPR. Have the wastegate vacuum line connected to the turbo compressor. That's it, you don't need anything else right now. So disconnect and or plug all the other misc vacuum lines and T's you have.

Remove the BOV, they complicate everything in the beginning. Add it back in once the car is up and running at 100%. You will do NO damage to the turbo by running low boost without a BOV.

if the car was idling at 16:1 it would be very rough. As you richen the mix up it smooths out. The motor will run great at 11:1 even in the 10's. I'm not saying richen it up that much, cause you'll ruin your oil. But 16:1 is to much. Then again, not having a full exhaust on may be screwing up the wide band signal.

Fix the exhaust, fix the vacuum, remove the BOV.

Post AFTER you've done those things. Stop band-aiding all the little problems. Get the car finished, THEN and only then can we truly diagnose what's goin on. Sorry for the tough love, but if I was your neighbor I'd have smacked you by now

WD

[Doya]

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:12 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

stop thrashing, that only works for me. and a select few...

start one thing and complete it, make a list instead of coming on here, then take the list and knock it the f*** out

[WDRacing]

hey no problem.but why can i remove any and all vacuum lines while the car is running, and not one thing change....That's all that stumbles me.

I'd love to stop half assing, but i only get but so much time to work on the car a day....let alone....a few spare days out of the week, so nothing is ever done on time or on a schedule...just little by little.

The issue is, you are going to have problems until the car is finished. If it's not complete, then it isn't going to run well. Don't worry about removing things and looking for a change, thats retarded unless the car was running at 100% at some point, which I garantee it was not.

Stop troubleshooting things, just finish the car and start the diagnosis over. In fact...finish the car and make a whole new thread. I can't even keep track of what mods you have and ones you don't.

WD

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:13 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

it should not have an effect on vac. So long as everything is sealed up.

he is not shutting you down, just saying this thread became a mess and is hard to follow. Slow down to go fast