HELP! troubles with my ka-t. Was running perfect not even a week ago and nowthis

[WDRacing]

If the aft seal is pissing oil, it's gonna need to be changed.

Take a pic of the oil drain, many and from more then one angle. I wanna see the whole line etc, 90% of all oiling issues are because of the return side. Using a restrictor isn't going to hurt either, just in case you're getting to much pressure...which I highly doubt.

Is this turbo a knock-off?

WD

PS, becareful listening to Josh, when he hurt his back they gave him LOTS of meds

[neverlift]

If the aft seal is pissing oil, it's gonna need to be changed.

Take a pic of the oil drain, many and from more then one angle. I wanna see the whole line etc, 90% of all oiling issues are because of the return side. Using a restrictor isn't going to hurt either, just in case you're getting to much pressure...which I highly doubt.

Is this turbo a knock-off?

WD

PS, becareful listening to Josh, when he hurt his back they gave him LOTS of meds

mine was leaking when I got it on the car, I clocked the turbo to the recommended * by garrett, and it solved the oiling, but at the same time I shortened my return and the clocking gave a straighter shot to the pan. but before clocking I bought another turbo thinking this one was bad, ended up with a super 60 I think it was off a z31 that was a paper weight, the thing had coaked so bad it was just draining out metalic chunks of sludge type s***. I know this might be dumb but how much oil is in the pan. I know the turbo cannot drain in the capacity is too high, make sure when the car is level the drain (pan side) doesn't drain oil out... if it does that could be the cause.

and yeah they did, too bad none of it ~really~ helps but my advise isn't ALWAYS bad, just some of the stuff I do myself... by the way when you gonna hit my thread up with input, I got an"I'm watching patriot a** kicking contest"

[WDRacing]

Ditch the SAFC...best advice I can give homie.

[neverlift]

Ditch the SAFC...best advice I can give homie.

I understand thats how you fell man, I would gladly trade an afc for a tuned ecu, however under a hundy to tune is much better for my pockets than 350+ for an ecu. I mean my motor cost less that that.

How have so many people ran afc and 370 setups successfully as well as the countless 550cc afc setups? I just dont get it.

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:04 PM 11/28/2009

[WDRacing]

I hear ya with the budget man, I have the same job you do. I think the hacked MAF is a far better option then the SAFC.

WD

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:04 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

WD-so about that question i had about running oil that low on purpose?what can/would i be hurting if i went about doing that?

just make damn sure the oil is between the cross hatch marks. Check it warm after a minute or so off. YES 100% if the oil cannot drain via gravity your turbo is going to smoke.you might want to skip the restrictor and do the oil drain. I am almost willing to bet that is the only problem.

I hear ya with the budget man, I have the same job you do. I think the hacked MAF is a far better option then the SAFC.

WD

it pays for s*** but the rewards are nice

yeah but I have an s13 with the metal housing, is that even hackable? tried out the stock afm on 5in 5out and it ran like arse, put the n60 back in on 4in 5out and it runs like a champ but its a bit too lean and I dont want to add any fuel with the afc. Should get the 370 tomorrow or the next day.

[trackslut240]

it was oil level as neverlift said, after flushing out the fuel filled oil, i added a good 5 quarts or so, on idle in the garage after five ten minutes, a slight smoking situation started. hey i didnt light the cigar yet, hold on. so i shut it and left it there. last night, i went in and squeezed the oil drain hose and felt liquid in the hose. so drained it out and poured in 4 qts, new filter. no more smoking, now the only smoke is coming from the retard in the drivers seat... running perfect, i do have a miss here and there, on idle,it will buuurrrr buuth buuuurrr.. but runs great. havent got on to boost, coz i did a ghetto ring replace job. will drive it a couple hundred miles and change oil again. i did hit maybe the start of building boost but backed off... ...woos...

will post pics and finally make my own thread...

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:05 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

I use maybe 4qts on a change/filter.

not sure but I think he put 5 in so he could help flush the gas out. Smart if it was gassy. Run it for a day or so then check to see if you got all the gas out.

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:05 PM 11/28/2009

[WDRacing]

yeah but I have an s13 with the metal housing, is that even hackable? tried out the stock afm on 5in 5out and it ran like arse, put the n60 back in on 4in 5out and it runs like a champ but its a bit too lean and I dont want to add any fuel with the afc. Should get the 370 tomorrow or the next day.

Yes but I may be working out something where I sell a MAF Bypass / Fuel Injector combo. I'll give you the specs for free of course, since you're currently in the same field I'm in

S-A-H-Ds FTMFW

[neverlift]

you rock man,very interested

[trackslut240]

i got on it today, screw it, if it blows, it blows. but nah its holding up fine, i am only able to get 7psi out of the baby hair dryer(t25). i might have to readjust my fpr. getting into 10s and 11 on full song. idle is fine, 14 to 15. still have to figure out the buuurrr...bbuttt...bbuuurrrr...buuurrr.. feels like its backfiring or missing. maybe put some proper plugs in, i installed bosch platinum plus, stock size. will have to go one range colder and decide which plugs to go with. i love the screamer pipe and my hks ssqv. another issue, maybe its will all open dump blow offs, while taking off from a stop, it tends to bog and quit, unless i get on it quick. it doesnt die when i come to a stop, only sometimes while taking off from a stop. i finally got my bikrom back, so will have to get into that and tune it to my taste. i feel its a little too rich on full song. but loving every bit of boost on the ka. cant wait to jump to a t3 or something bigger.boost bug 1 me 0

wd: u have to share that maf delete/injector combo

thanks for everything guys.

[neverlift]

your setup is suck through, meaning the bov is gonna make you have stalls and stumbles.

I'd leave the fpr alone if you are in the high 10:1~11.5:1 nothing leaner unless its tuned IMHO.

go get some ngk look cant recall of the top of my head but the correct plug is posted all over this place, f*** platinum, go copper or go the f*** home

without a boost controller I think that is the correct stock boost for an sr t25

[trackslut240]

understood on the bov, ..

i might even have some small vacuum leaks, which i will check into later.

ngk coppers is it for the plugs...

how about iridiums? or that pulstar?

so push 10psi from the t25? or leave it there at 7psi? or get a t28 or t3 50 trim?

[neverlift]

zerothread?id=120506on the plugs.. copper if you are broke like me and iridium if you are baller.

get the vac leaks taken care of they can be the cause of your issues, suck through meters at the turbo inlet which is a long damn way from the manifold/CC...

well that depends on a few things, I ran 11~12psi on my original turbo setup which was a t25, it was quick to spool and held till redline(which is not the norm.) it was mint when I got it, oil feed blew off and that killed it. For me t3 was the ONLY next option, it cost me less to go t3 cause I had learned so much from the t25, and had parts to use IC piping,IC... And I am thrifty. SAHD FTMFW!

If you want more power IMHO add a bigger turbo and run the same boost, I am happy with 6~9psi daily on the t3(small t3) and think it puts down more than 10 on a t25. Your situation may be better to go with a t28 as all the parts pretty much bolt up and nothing else would be required other than a retune and injectors.

UP to you but a t25 should handle 10psi, up fuel pressure more and keep close eye on the wideband, also would not hurt to knock another * off timing.

[trackslut240]

"on the plugs.. copper if you are broke like me and iridium if you are baller."

i am broke so copper it is...

"get the vac leaks taken care of they can be the cause of your issues, suck through meters at the turbo inlet which is a long damn way from the manifold/CC..."

yeah i tried doing the boost leak method but heard air from the compressor than any leaks from the manifold or piping...maybe i didnt do it right, i will try with a vac pump and see how that goes.

like u said before, i think all my idle, stall stumble issues are stemming from the hks ssqv... the sound is so good that i am willing to live with it it sounds like the wrc rally cars...that sharp prickly whistle...

"well that depends on a few things, I ran 11~12psi on my original turbo setup which was a t25, it was quick to spool and held till redline(which is not the norm.) it was mint when I got it, oil feed blew off and that killed it. For me t3 was the ONLY next option, it cost me less to go t3 cause I had learned so much from the t25, and had parts to use IC piping,IC... And I am thrifty. SAHD FTMFW!

If you want more power IMHO add a bigger turbo and run the same boost, I am happy with 6~9psi daily on the t3(small t3) and think it puts down more than 10 on a t25. Your situation may be better to go with a t28 as all the parts pretty much bolt up and nothing else would be required other than a retune and injectors.

UP to you but a t25 should handle 10psi, up fuel pressure more and keep close eye on the wideband, also would not hurt to knock another * off timing. "

yeah i will bust this turbo before i can go to another one, t28 is looking like a good idea, maybe a cheap knockoff t28, non ball bearing till more money for ball bearing and better quality.

[neverlift]

unplug the ssqv, and see if that is part of it, 7psi of flutter a couple times is fine... Cant hurt is all I'm saying.

Not sure on the boost leak testers, never done it, I run blow through and let the afm deal with that bulls***.

leave ebay turbos on ebay.

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:06 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

trust me, thats probably it. Sounds like a bad boost leak or a vta bov on a suck through.

[trackslut240]

havent tested but i can be sure thats it too, coz thats a huge vacuum leak. i might even try to keep the idle upto a 1000, but i am pretty sure it will still try and die. most times i have the issue is on take off, i give it too little gas. my theory is a little bit of air sucks the valve open, vacuum leak, too much air too little fuel and it dies. if i get on it to 2000 rpm and punch a little more, its fine. slow take offs, forget it. i will live with it and learn to drive around it. coz i cant loose that pulsing whistle. i worked too hard for it so i will work even harder to drive it. i dont have the dying at stops though...

keep us posted rick.

i think we both need a valve which is closed on spring pressure and not by vacuum or boost pressure.

[neverlift]

You could just test it, by plugging the vac line that goes to it.

when you run suck through the afm meters X air at the intake, the bov is letting some of that air out while off boost, so the car runs rich. a wideband will show you this.

blow through/

[WDRacing]

Plug the BOV...only way to tell for sure. Bypass valves are the only things that are proven to work. There are very good reasons why cars that come from the factory boosted don't run open atmosphere BOVs.

If its getting rough as it warms up then your idle settings are f'd. The stalling at a stop is a BOV issue.

I'm pretty sure I posted exactly how to fix this and have the car running correct atleast once already...

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:07 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

man it takes longer to find a suitable bolt to plug the line than it does, do gas stations there not have covers?

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:08 PM 11/28/2009

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 8:09 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

Just unhook the bov, its not going to kill your turbo for a few days, and if you are not boosting it wont even flutter.

are the injectors at 27%- correction or its gonna run like a**.