Help. Tramlining M35x

[Mykel6]

Hello everyone,
I just purchased a 2006 M35X 3 weeks ago. I do a lot of driving for work and I can tell you I've never been this angry and frustrated about anything.
The car is tramlining really bad and my dealer did not find any problems.
I changed the tires with Bridgestone blizzak lm-32 and it's better but not gone. It gets really scary at times.

I just found out today that there is an accelerator recall on these cars and will be calling the dealer in the morning. ( I can't believe he didn't mention it).

Do you guys thing that might solve the problem, may be it's messing up the sensors and making the car pull all over the road?

Thanks for your input.

[Ilya]

It's a known 'facet' of owning this car. You get used to it. I don't even notice it anymore. Different tires do help. It's possible the Blizzak's are just as susceptible to it.

[EniGmA1987]

Tires are the biggest help to this. I have tried a few different ones: Hankook Ventus V12 EVO, Continental ExtremeContact DW and DWS, and Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3. They are all better than OEM tires, which are just terrible. The Hankooks are probably the worst of the bunch that I have personally tried, but they are still really good tires. My favorite's are the Michlin's, because they eliminate the issue 99% and are also the best grip of all those tires, nicest sounding, and are lasting the longest. Well worth the extra cost. Both Continentals I tried are great at the start, but they degrade by a very large amount by the time they are at 50% life, in handling and noise. The Hankook's also degrade a lot too, but they maintain good grip even at lower life, it is just the noise and tramlining that gets a bit out of hand with those ones past 50% tread life. Once winter is over and you are looking to put on regular tires again you should try out those Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3's. Mine are in 255/35ZR19 size since I have the sport model. Whatever size you go with, be sure and have at least a 94 load index rating since our cars are so heavy.

[Ilya]

I've also used the Continental ExtremeContact DWS as well as the Michelin Primacy MXM4's and I don't even notice the issue anymore.

[Mykel6]

Thanks guys for taking the time to reply.
I put those blizzak on because they are the most expensive winter tires I found and was really hoping that will eliminate the problems.

[veery]

Once you get some snow I am sure you will love the Blizzaks. They are awesome.

[Larz]

Our M's are known for tramling issues. I guess I am lucky because it nearly never happens to me. When it does, it's always on the same road, at the same place on that road. The only tires I've used that never had this issue were the Ventus S1noble2 tires. All brands of tires I have used still 'pull' just when the car is coming to a complete stop at traffic signals with an uneven road surface. It happens rarely and you will get used to it. You just need to keep your hands on the wheel as you come to a stop. I'm told this is also a characteristic of the M's. Far as I know, there is no 'fix' for either of these quirks.
To answer your question about the accelerator recall: that has NO effect on either of these issues. My 07 was on that list and after they replaced whatever it was, the car accelerated more smoothly and more instantaneously.

[Mykel6]

Wow I see.
So what winter tires would you guys recommend for this car. I don't like all season tires.

[Ilya]

Blizzak's are the best winter tires by most accounts. Like I said, just deal with it for now and eventually you'll get used to it. I'm not just saying that...you won't even think about it eventually. Just give it some time.

[Mykel6]

Thanks guys. I guess i'll learn to love it:)

[jiggersplat]

Try changing your tire pressure.

[DS2009m35x]

My 2009 M35X does the same thing. 102k, bought with 82K. Car had incredible maintenance which is why I purchased it. Have since changed every fluid in the car (I did some and had the dealer do the others). More details in another chain.
Car has this offbrand summer HP tires which were scarry last winter in the snow. Yes, summer HP tires are not meant for snow, but I didn't think it would be as bad as it was. Pretty much decided to buy snows on alloys for this winter.
The tramlining issue is severe, however. Next year I'm thinking I'll replace with either the Contis or the Michelins based upon reviews from TireRack and here. I really hope these help as I'd be nervous about having my wife drive the car. Dealer gave the usual, "its the tires" thing.

[Mykel6]

Ok Guys, Tramlining is now almost completely gone. Only a little bit on very rough roads.
Here are what I did...

1) Replaced the Cooper Zeon RS3-A (performance tires) with new Bridgestone blizzak lm-32 (snow tires). Big improvement after this but still annoying.

2) Tighten the steering rack screw (little bit) as described in this thread by user "filet" (scroll down the thread).
steering-wheel-shakes-40mph-t547763.html
Steering does not feel as loose and tramlining reduced. I guess tightening this stops the road from easily pulling the wheels left and right.

3) Infiniti dealer took care of the accelerator pedal sensor recall issues.
I don't think the accelerator pedal sensor has anything to do with the car pulling but they are also instructed to reprogram the engine control module and I think that's what helps the tramlining.

Please post if the above solutions work for your car or other solutions, for other people who are looking for solutions past just replacing the tires.

I am very impressed by all those who willingly tried to help me with this problem. Thank you.

[EniGmA1987]

Car has this offbrand summer HP tires which were scarry last winter in the snow. Yes, summer HP tires are not meant for snow, but I didn't think it would be as bad as it was. Pretty much decided to buy snows on alloys for this winter.

Summer tires should never be used in snow or they will be ruined forever and dangerous to ride with. The compounds that make up the tires will freeze when they get below 32 degrees and will harden, loosing most of their grip and will wear badly. Even after they thaw out the tires will never grip or wear as good as they used to because the compound froze up. All-Season tires will not freeze like this and are rated to 0 degrees or lower. However, A/S tires dont always have the same grip that a true summer tire could give, though these Michelin's I have now are actually equal to the best summer tires I have used. Which was pretty surprising to me.

2) Tighten the steering rack screw (little bit) as described in this thread by user "filet" (scroll down the thread).
steering-wheel-shakes-40mph-t547763.html
Steering does not feel as loose and tramlining reduced. I guess tightening this stops the road from easily pulling the wheels left and right.

Im going to try doing this soon and see what happens, though tramlining is 99% gone with my tires anyway.

[fat3oy]

Also-

No one should do it... but a slight positive camber (not visually noticeable) and same with negative toe seems to kill it as well... but can kill your tires!

Who cares about tires anyways? I am wayyyyyyyy more shifty on high centering when my car likes to nibble....

[psyopper]

Summer tires should never be used in snow or they will be ruined forever and dangerous to ride with. The compounds that make up the tires will freeze when they get below 32 degrees and will harden, loosing most of their grip and will wear badly. Even after they thaw out the tires will never grip or wear as good as they used to because the compound froze up.

I'm going to call BS on this. What proof of this do you have? I'd take an article from any reasonably trustworthy car magazine, the NHTSA, IIHS or a white paper from any of the major tire manufacturers.

[CPJ LB]

^ there are plenty of articles on the net that discuss this....take your pick while you search.

The basic rubber compounds between summer tires and snow tires are totally different...

from my personal experience while living in Germany for approx 4 years, it was mandatory that drivers use snow tires or all-season tires when there is snow, slush, black ice, frost, etc on German roads... the use of summer tires during the snowy season would cost you substantial finds because of severe safety issues. I know Germany was more strict than other European countries back then, but I'm sure a lot of the neighboring countries may have become stricter as well.

I have family in Connecticut and when we travel back East during the winter, the use of winter tires is a must. I suggest you review the DOT in your state regarding the use of winter tires vs summer tires - during the winter months.

[jiggersplat]

i think he was referring to the claim that once they get cold/freeze they are never the same again even after they warm back up.

[antzrus]

I purchased my M second hand at 33k miles. It tramlined severely. I was really pissed. Back in '07 they thought it had something to do with the steering rack or some such. It was a major issue herein with all kinds of suggestions to fix it-all inconclusive.

From all the recommendations and/or complaints I decided to go with the original Conti Extreme Contact tire because I had loved my Conti tires on my '76 BMW R75.

To make a long story short, the tramlining literally ceased. Since, I've replaced the Extreme Contacts at about 30k; they do wear down rather quickly. I again opted for the original DWS that I still have on. Tramlining continues gone.

Altho the Contis wear quickly, I cannot fault their excellent all season performance and the end of tramlining for me. I live (WA State) in snow country and drive up to Canada often during the winter for skiing and the Contis can't be beat-in my opinion.

[DS2009m35x]

One other piece of info. When I mentioned the bit about adjusting the steering tension (found procedure in a thread here) the dealer strongly discouraged it. To me it makes sense to tighten a bit to reduce the sensitivity to bumps, ruts, paving ridges, etc. As I said previously, I'm going with dedicated snows on alloys this winter and new tires next spring. I hear you about the summer tires in winter. My mistake. This is the first time I've ever had a car with dedicated summer HPs.
Good info in all these threads.

[veery]

Earlier suggestions in this thread to adjust tire pressures are right on. Pressures found on the door-jam sticker tend to be a bit low as the car and tire manufacturers have agreed on a pressure setting which affords the greatest comfort level to the occupants. However, a slightly higher setting will reduce tread-edge wear and tramlining as softer tires will want to follow the terrain more.

[Ilya]

Summer tires should never be used in snow or they will be ruined forever and dangerous to ride with. The compounds that make up the tires will freeze when they get below 32 degrees and will harden, loosing most of their grip and will wear badly. Even after they thaw out the tires will never grip or wear as good as they used to because the compound froze up.

I'm going to call BS on this. What proof of this do you have? I'd take an article from any reasonably trustworthy car magazine, the NHTSA, IIHS or a white paper from any of the major tire manufacturers.

LOL. You serious bruh?

Also, update your profile to show your general geographic location.

i think he was referring to the claim that once they get cold/freeze they are never the same again even after they warm back up.

I hope that's what he's referring too otherwise...STAY OFF THE ROADS WHILE I'M AROUND you driving-on-snow-with-summer-tires-bad-driver-guy-you.

That being said, when it's -20 outside, your tires are NEVER going to warm up enough to be safe if they are summer tires. Feel your tires after spirited driving in 30 degree weather. You can barely feel any heat. Feel your tires in 80 degree weather after spirited driving, they will likely be very very warm. At 0, they are going to be cold still.

[DS2009m35x]

As a follow-up, I had Pirelli P7 all season grand touring tires installed. tramlining is 90% less, but still apparent. I posted in another chain, but wanted to close this out.
Groaning sound when turning right. As expected, it was a bad PS rack. Dealer said that would exacerbate tramlining. Calling Infiniti USA to see if they'll split the cost as its a known problem with a service bulletin. Car has had such a good maintenance record that I decided to invest further in the car and have the job done.

[MY06M45S]

I bought my 06 M45 sport a little over a year ago. I love the car, but I also noticed the tramlining issue. At first I kinda was getting mad about it because I haven't experienced it on my other vehicles as bad as the M. The dealership installed brand new tires before they put it up for sale and the tires are Sumitomo HTR Z III
After searching this forum I was thinking I'd have to change my tires since the majority have said that is the issue. I haven't changed the tires. Here's what REALLY helped me, my personal experience, I opted to upgrade my brakes to the G37S brakes at all four corners. In order for me to keep my OEM 19" wheels I had to install 15mm wheel spacers. I installed the H&R DRS 15mm spacers at all four corners a while before I ordered the brakes. After driving with the spacers installed I noticed a MAJOR improvement. The handling is better. The tramlining issue has almost disappeared! I was really surprised about it! Plus the extra track width, in my opinion, makes the car look better too! I spent $198 for all spacers. I did the install myself. So it was fairly inexpensive for me. Hope this helps! This forum is the best!

[bluedevil30]

I've done 200K miles on an 2006 and 2009 M35X (18" All Season tires) and I had to Google what tramlining even was and have never had that problem. Had OEM tires and Contis on the 06 and OEM tires, Toyo Versados and now Cooper CS4s on the 09 with no issues.

[gavnator]

Purchased my CPO 06' M35X March of '09. Had original tires and there was some tramlining. Had a set of Conti DWS installed and tramlining was gone. I believe the DWS' are the best balance of performance and traction for this car.

[uhomebody]

I know this thread is old and for M35X, but it is the newest tramlining thread on here that I could find. I recently purchased a used 2011 M37X. Tramlining is terrible. Finally took it in to the dealership today (6 weeks after purchasing, less than 900 miles driven) to have them take a look. They said that it is due to low tread on the front two tires. He said the tires have lots of tread left but have worn a bit wear these cars do start to go all over the place.

My question is, the tires that are on it are Hankook Ventus S1 Noble2. Back tires have a ton of tread left, front he said need to be replaced if i want tramlining to disappear. Do I replace with two new Noble2? Or do I bite the bullet and get 4 new that will ultimately do a better job of eliminating the tramline?

What I don't want to do is replace the front two and have the problem continue. Any feedback/input is greatly appreciated!

[kmiles]

Welcome to the forum! Larz will be able to provide the best answer on the Hankook tires. I've never used those tires, but I think he has. Shortly after purchasing my M35X I switched to Michelins Pilot Sport A/S tires and I've never had tramlining problems since then. I just recently purchased the Pilot Sport A/S 3 tires (I have about 1500 miles on them). Great tires and zero tramlining issues. I also know that there is a strong contingent of owners who swear by the Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires. I also highly recommend getting a full 4 wheel alignment after putting on the new tires.

[tbright]

I am still a little annoyed at the tramlining and/or bump steer in my M35 after a year of ownership.

I think the two terms tramlining and bump steer get used on this site but might be two different symptoms.

From what I understand, bump steer is caused by the geometry of the suspension. Different arc lengths with control arms can cause the wheels and the steering wheel to turn when going over bumps. When I hit a bump my steering wheel jerks or twitches. This is exaggerated when going over a speed bump one wheel at a time. Dips over manhole covers aren't noticeable. Playing with alignment and toe settings might be the best solution for this. My alignment guy told me I was toed in at 3/16". Maximum according to the manual is .08", so maybe I have some room for improvement with a different alignment.

Adjusting the sliding rack force helps too, even though my alignment guy discourages that.

If tramlining is defined as following ruts in the road, this showed up in my car as an annoying slow turn of the steering wheel while braking. Casual stops from 40 to 0 in a straight line my steering wheel would turn the steering wheel about 15 degrees as I was coming to a complete stop. The tires might be the biggest culprit there, as mine was 90% fixed when switching from RSAs to Pirellis P7s. I haven't done much freeway driving in the last year so I couldn't tell you if it tramlined on concretes grooves.

[TOMatBMR]

My car has the same issue and I finally tracked it down to what I think is the lower control arm bushings.

When you are driving at say 20-30mph can you quickly and abruptly tap on and off the brakes and feel the wheel shift back like the bushing is weak? Try it in reverse as well. Check for noise and a looseness feeling.

My bushings visually look ok, but on a 4 post lift we were able to rock the car enough to see the arm moving within the bushing. I am replacing my arms with OE grade replacements then going to try to have bring a new bushing solution to market within 6 months.