Help. Tramlining M35x

[tbright]

My car has the same issue and I finally tracked it down to what I think is the lower control arm bushings.

When you are driving at say 20-30mph can you quickly and abruptly tap on and off the brakes and feel the wheel shift back like the bushing is weak? Try it in reverse as well. Check for noise and a looseness feeling.

My bushings visually look ok, but on a 4 post lift we were able to rock the car enough to see the arm moving within the bushing. I am replacing my arms with OE grade replacements then going to try to have bring a new bushing solution to market within 6 months.

Which issue specifically? Or all of the above?

[Mclovinit]

This might be too late to post my reply but I just joined this forum. I have a 2008 M35x and I also was experiencing bad tramming in my car to the point I didn't want to drive it at all. I recently changed out my Michelin Primacy MXM tires for Pirelli cinturato p7 all season plus tires and my tramming issue went away completely. The pIrellis are MUCH quieter and smoother than the others and happy I made the switch. I have about 3,000 miles on them so far and have been through two snow storms and they are great tires overall.

[The00Dustin]

I know this thread is old and for M35X, but it is the newest tramlining thread on here that I could find. I recently purchased a used 2011 M37X. Tramlining is terrible. Finally took it in to the dealership today (6 weeks after purchasing, less than 900 miles driven) to have them take a look. They said that it is due to low tread on the front two tires. He said the tires have lots of tread left but have worn a bit wear these cars do start to go all over the place.

My question is, the tires that are on it are Hankook Ventus S1 Noble2. Back tires have a ton of tread left, front he said need to be replaced if i want tramlining to disappear. Do I replace with two new Noble2? Or do I bite the bullet and get 4 new that will ultimately do a better job of eliminating the tramline?

What I don't want to do is replace the front two and have the problem continue. Any feedback/input is greatly appreciated!

Many techs and enthusiasts will tell you to replace all four tires because the ATESSA (?) AWD system is very intricate or something. It may even state in the drivers manual or FSM that tires need to be within a certain tread wear of one another, but I'm not sure if it does. Regardless, the tires discussed by the post following yours (Michelin Pilot Sport AS/3 & Continental ExtremeContact DWS) should both be good for eliminating tramlining and both should handle great. The Michelin is much firmer than the Continental, but it is also much louder. My most recent tires were Bridgestone Potenza RE970AS, and IMO, the handle better than the previous generations of the two tires mentioned above. They are also quieter until they get extremely worn. IIRC, they are somewhere between the two mentioned above in firmness. All of that having been said, I'm putting snow tires on steel rims this winter and then grand touring tires on the OEMs next spring.

[szh]

This might be too late to post my reply but I just joined this forum. I have a 2008 M35x and I also was experiencing bad tramming in my car to the point I didn't want to drive it at all. I recently changed out my Michelin Primacy MXM tires for Pirelli cinturato p7 all season plus tires and my tramming issue went away completely. The pIrellis are MUCH quieter and smoother than the others and happy I made the switch. I have about 3,000 miles on them so far and have been through two snow storms and they are great tires overall.

Pirelli's are good tires with some of their models, yes!

Even with Michelin, I would only use some of their tires. My wife's Acura came with Michelin MXM (as I recall), and we were very disappointed - the car simply would not track straight on the highway and it was a chore to keep it going straight.

After we replaced with Michelin Pilot Super Sports (which are an awesome summer tire), the change was dramatic. Even my wife (who is not a car nut) noted how much safer she felt driving on these tires.

Z

[szh]

Many techs and enthusiasts will tell you to replace all four tires because the ATESSA (?) AWD system is very intricate or something. It may even state in the drivers manual or FSM that tires need to be within a certain tread wear of one another, but I'm not sure if it does.

Yeah, on the X models, it is best to keep the wheels identical (note: I did not say OEM, I said "identical") ... no staggers, same size tire, same tire brand and model, etc.

The tires should be identical as much as possible (do rotate regularly). The AWD X is quite sensitive to rolling diameter mismatches. Handling (and safety in extreme front/rear axle tire/wheel differences) will be compromised otherwise.

Z