help to get my car running right, LOTS of smoke at idle ect

[ANVIL]

trying to work out all the weird things on my car so i can try to make the last track days of the year, which are all this weekend, monday being the last. my car hasnt been running for close to 2 years now and i just recently been able to get it started but now im trying to get it to run RIGHT. one of my first issues im trying to figure out is why its smoking so much. it appears to be a whitish smoke now.

heres a video



http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v708/ ... G_0750.mp4


its pretty bad and needs to be fixed ASAP so i can see if theres anything else wrong with the car... smokes so bad i cant even really work on it without a smoke screen through my whole neighborhood... and my home owners association arent exactly happy with things like this.

another thing im trying to sort out is to make sure its on a drivable map. i did get a pre tuned map from steve shadows from zilvia but im unsure on how good it is. im a little suspect on how the injectors are setup.

i really need help and if anyone can help me out PM me, or ill be on AIM (otlcasanovaboy) or msn ([email protected]) and i will leave it on in case anyone wants to try to help me out. if you wanna text or call me to help, pm me and ill give u my number but im getting pretty desperate and had to see another race season pass me by.

[ANVIL]

im just confused on a few things. so where it says 100 in datalogit im supposed to change that to 57 right? (370 stock injector / 650 deatchwerk injector) then the box next to it on the right... whats that for? am i supposed to change that to .12? (.64 (dw latency) - .52 (stock latency) ) ?

if i do that do i change the inj lag vs batt also? 240z4u (bought injectors from him) gave these numbers

16v - 1.072
14v - 1.192
12v - 1.420
10v - 1.8
8v - 2.62
6v - 5.88

also.i got a tune from steve shadows on zilvia and he didnt adjust the injector settings, but he did change values on the injector map itself. so i dont know if im supposed to adjust the settings, if his map adjusted it or what im supposed to do.

[240z4u]

My guy here has 2 year old fuel in his tank FYI. He is going to get some new fuel in it and see if the smoking clears up!

[ANVIL]

after talking with 240z4u im not as concerned with the map as much as i am with the smoke.

defueled as much as i could and then threw in 5 gal of fresh gas. got excited that there was no smoke for the first 2-3 minutes but then went back to the same condition... super smoker. thought id take it for a drive down the block to a wooded area/park because there was less people there and see if the car would work itself out after a short drive and idle. let it idle to full op temp then for about 5 min more and no change.

i know white smoke is generally coolant but it doesnt smell like it. smells like normal exhaust to me. no signs of me loosing coolant either. what else could be causing this?

[R32ONP]

are ya loosing oil?? for it to smoke after idling it means its a seal (piston rings will smoke on throttle...valve and turbo seals will smoke on idle)

[ANVIL]

No I don't appear to be losing oil. But generally if it's oil normally wouldn't i've darker and bluish smoke?

[hungryjoseph]

have you done a compression test? open your radiator cap and check to see if you see small bubbles/foam/etc. that is a sign of a bad headgasket, air form combustion chamber getting into your coolant galleys. another better way to check is a leak down test. whats your afr's look like

[ItzGenX]

Water being burned is normally vapor out the tail pipe. It usually comes out white and doesn't cloud the entire neighborhood due to it evaporating into the air. Rich conditions and oil burning condition smoke do not fade away much and can really smoke screen a neighborhood/yard/house etc. Oil is the most obvious as it will have a distinct oil burning smell and gray blueish tint in the sun. Overly rich conditions seem to be different on load, how much fuel, etc. It tends to be more black/dark gray in color (not all the time). My first SR I ever installed did something similar to yours. It was kind of light gray and will burn the hell out of your eyes in seconds after starting it from being super rich and very hard to rev "bog then rev slowly". It turned out to be a bad MAF in that case. I noticed that after I unplugged the MAF and started it in limp mode, it didn't kick up any smoke at all, and it would rev freely to 3000 rpm where the ecu would limit it.

[R32ONP]

yea check compression etc to see were ur at...If its not using oil and water it has to be using something to create the smoke lol...i still say oil seals in turbo or valve seals would be the culprate....jus my 2 cents tho

[ANVIL]

UPDATE

Ok so I finally had some time to try to figure out my car and I think I narrowed it down. #6 ( i think) cylinder (the one closest to the firewall) isn't firing which I'm assuming is the cause of the running s*** and the smoke. A theory a friend/mechanic came up with is the non firing cylinder is causing fuel buildup in the cylinder/manifold which then is causing the smoke from being "evaporated" rather than ignited. It runs with An obvious misfire and no changes when the coil is unplugged. So here's what I've checked:

150 compression in that cylinder
confirmed fuel, spark plug comes out wet
replaced spark plug
Switched coilpack with several different ones
switched injectors with one from the cylinder next to it
confirmed spark with plug&coilpack out of cylinder
loaded PFC ignition basemap

it's leading me to believe something is up with the ignition timing. I just realized and remembered that when I tried to set CAS base timing the light was flashing pretty inconsistant and not steady. I just had my main harness redone with the help of Carl
H so I'm not sure what to check next. What should my next step be?

[Darius]

Do you have an S1 or S2 RB25?

[ANVIL]

S1

[Carl H]

could be a bad ignitor...iirc your engine is a s1.
i've had a few ignitors crap out on me out of the blue, even a brand new one from nissan with only a year and some change under its belt.

[Darius]

That is exactly what I was getting at. It is either the ignitor, the wiring to the #6 coil from the ignitor, or a bad driver in the ECU, but I'm with CarlH in thinking it is probably just the ignitor. I happen to have 2 sitting on my bench right now. I know they both work. E-mail me or PM me if you want one (or both) of them.

[ANVIL]

I do have a spare but I'm not sure on the condition. So i sent u a pm darius. I'll try swapping it after work and see how it runs. Thanks for the quick replies guys, really appriciate it.

[ANVIL]

So I just got home and tried my spare ignitor and no change to the condition on #6 misfire. I'm not 100% sure if this is how to check but I tried to check continuity for the wiring for that pack. I checked from:

pink/green ---> pin E4
white ---> white pin on the 2 wire white and black/pink plug
black ---> black wire ground where coilpack mounting frame bolt goes

is that right? I get continuity through those connections. I just find it kinda odd that BOTH ignitors would give the same cyl misfire. I just wanna make sure that's right and if there's anything else I can check before picking up another ignitor.

[Darius]

Have you checked for 12V power on the white wire at the #6 cylinder? Turn the key ON and pull the plug off of the coil pack and test the voltage of the white wire pin. It should be 12V.

It sounds like you have continuity between the coil pack black wire pin and ground, so you should be good to go there.The only other wire I would check is the continuity of the wire for cylinder 6 between the ECU and ignitor.

How confident are you that you seated the #6 fuel injector correctly? If it has a tear in the lower o-ring, it will dump loads of gasoline into the engine even when the key is just turned ON to prime the fuel pump. That is another possibility for it not being able to ignite such a rich fuel mixture.

[ANVIL]

Got 12v to the whit wire with ign on.

Is the ring ur talking about the ring inbetween the rail and head?

[ANVIL]

Just reseated the whole rail and checked the ring. Looks good. Still no change. I found pin 11 is the signal for cyl 6, what pin off the ignitor do I go to?

[Darius]

The ignitor is wired in firing order not in cylinder order, so cylinder #6 has pin 11 at the ECU like you said and cylinder #6 is pin 5 on the ignitor. Mine was pink/white if I remember right...Check the first page of the "LS2 coil swap" thread for reference.

[Carl H]

i've found it really REALLY hard to test ignitors via the FSM methodology, for some reason they test out ok even when bad and vice versa...not a reliable method imho.
did you ever remove the fuel injectors from the rail?
if so you may have torn or warped on of the orings on the injector and that can cause overfueling like darius was on about.

[d356bud]

I always used the diode tester on my multimeter to test the transistor pack

[ANVIL]

I did check the o rings and even swapped them and injectors with cyl #5 and the issue stayed in the same cyl

[ANVIL]

UPDATE

ok, so just now tried to check the continuity to the ignitor from the ecu and i either figured out the problem or im doing something wrong. before i jump to any conclusions i just need someone to confirm what im doing.

so I check each ignitor input like this:



and it should be 123g456 right?

and from my information the ecu pins to cyl is:

1 -> 1
2 -> 5
3 -> 3
11 -> 6
12 -> 2
13 -> 4

20 -> g

but when i check it i get:

ignitor -> pin
1 -> ?
2 -> ?
3 -> 3
g -> 20
4 -> ?
5 -> 12
6 -> 13

soooo this got me to think if this is it, how the hell is my motor running? i assumed that cyl #6 was the problem because the spark plug was the only soaked one. and i confirmed it by removing the plug to the coilpack and it ran the same. just now i checked the rest when I unplug cyl 1 it actually runs smoother and 2-5 run worse (#3 makes it run much worse than unplugging any other one), while 6 is no change.

this leads me to think that my wiring is messed up unless im checking it wrong..... what do you guys think before i try to rewire this thing?

[Darius]

So you can't find the pin at the ECU for several of the ignitor wires? Probe around some more to find where they are connected to.

They should be as follows:

1 -> 1 (Cyl 1)
2 -> 2 (Cyl 5)
3 -> 3 (Cyl 3)
g -> ground at the manifold (front by radiator hose neck)
4 -> 11 (Cyl 6)
5 -> 12 (Cyl 2)
6 -> 13 (Cyl 4)

[ANVIL]

So I am checking correctly?

I tried all ecu pins for the ones with ? And couldn't find where they lead to.

Looks like my wiring is messed up then... Looks like I need to talk to Carl H.

[Carl H]

not sure whats going on here to be honest, i do not touch the ignitor wiring when i modify harnesses.
has the harness been repinned at all for the ignitor?
just because the triggers are listed 1-6 on the ignitor does not mean the actual trigger wiring from the ecu is in that order...
i can look at my car this afternoon and see what wires correlate to what but as its an rb20 r32 base harness it may not correlate to the rb25 gear.
also shoving a wire into the plug isnt a reliable way to test, if anything a pin or saftey pin can be used which provides good contact against the connector.


from my notes this is what i have down for wire colours...
trigger colour pin
1 L/O 1
2 L/B 12
3 L/R 3
4 L/Y 13
5 Gy/B 2
6 Pu/W 11

if your triggers correspond to the correct coils then it should run just fine, again it does not matter if it lines up on the ignitor but if it lines up with the correct coil pack (ex: cylinder 4 trigger connected to 6 input on the ignitor needs to be connected to 6 output).

[Darius]

Carl's notes match what I have posted in my last post. Try reprobing those ECU pins because there's no way the engine would even fire without all 5 of those wires being continuous from the ignitor plug to the ECU. They HAVE to be continuous. Try rechecking it and verifying the wire colors at the ECU as you go.

[ANVIL]

I'm not getting exacly what u are saying Carl. So am I checking it wrong? The ecu pinout to the input of the ignitor are not the same? If not there where do I check? I've never had the ignitor repinned either. Now I'm just super confused.

Im not sure why u didn't touch the ignition wiring then becAuse I specifically sent it to you because I wanted the whole harness checked/repaired to make sure everything was right because I was suspecting it was wired wrong.

[ANVIL]

I'll re check it again and check the wire colors but I'm pretty sure what I came up with is what it is. Cuz I was confused that it was compeltely different with the exception of cyl 3.

Sent u a pm Carl btw