HELP!!

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biggie
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Apparently I had threw the printout away, that sucks.

But I took some pics.

For the Park/Neutral it should be the only plug on the bottom of that fuse box on the front passenger side. Plug looks like this (I've removed it from the mount to gain access). Wires look to be Black/White stripe and Black/Yellow stripe.

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For the Reverse lights, I pluged up the plug on the transmission for the lights and then used the middle plug on that same fuse box.
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For the 2 wires coming from the transmission plug, one I wired to 2 wires from the fuse box plug, both are Yellow one with green stripe and other looks like a blue stripe. These stripes are hard to see though.
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The other wire from the transmission plug I ran to a Yellow/White stripe wire on that same fuse box plug.
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Jon FLA
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Car: 1994 Convertible 240sx
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what plug coming from the transmission has green/blue wires coming from it? i went and bought a reverse lamp plug and both wires were black? i thought you only used the one plug?

to get the reverse lights to work is not an issue.. just need the car to start and the top to work..

BTW Thanks alot for the pictures.

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biggie
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I didn't make it under the car to see which plug is the Rev Lights on the transmission. But I would guess that the blue/green are the Rev Lights on the transmission.

Once you loop that plug on the bottom of the fuse box it should definitely crank.

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Jon FLA
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and how exactly do you wire in the convertible top? is it that 2 yellow/black and yellow/blue plug starting at the chassis harness going to the transmission? splice that into a power source?

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biggie
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I just followed the 5spd swap thread on that, forgot what the wires were.

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Jon FLA
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ok, thanks for all the help.

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Jon FLA
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RAN INTO ANOTHER PROBLEM!!!!

Im not getting power to the fuel pump!! wtf the car is turning over and everything seems fine but we are not getting power to the fuel pump.

checked the fuse and its good.

took the fuel pump out and connected it straight to the battery and it work so its not the pump it self.

shot some wires for power and we arent getting power at the back but we are getting power at the fuse box!!

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biggie
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I've never had that problem, but if you search in the regular or tech 240 sections a lot of people have had that issue, should find a solution there.

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Jon FLA
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this is crazy.. i figured out my pump relay was bad so i bipassed it with 12g wire and the pump comes on and primes like normal.

now for some reason i cant get my engine to start.. like it turns over and everything like it is gonna start but never fires up?

any suggestions?

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biggie
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Did you unplug/move anything during the swap? Plug wires? Distributor? Fuel injectors? Etc?

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Jon FLA
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yea plug wires and spark plugs so that when i put the manual transmission on i could turn the engine freely to make sure i wasnt binding...

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biggie
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Then would need to make sure the wires are in the correct order, etc.

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Jon FLA
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ok i checked and all the spark plugs on in the correct order and everything. I have a new set of spark plugs just sitting around so i took one of the spark plug wires out and plugged in a new spark plug and turned the engine over and im not getting any spark.. would the swap and any of those transmission sensors have anything to do with any of these problems?

and if the relay to my pump is not working, then i check for spark and it is not working its almost as if something is not sending the signal to those relays..

those three plugs on the side of the fuse box.. do those need to be plugged in somewhere?

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biggie
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No they shouldn't have anything to do with it.

My guess is either blown fuse when you wired the FP or something with the distributor/wires. Did you make sure the center distrib wire that runs over to the driver's side is connected?

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Jon FLA
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yea i made sure of that.. i checked all the damn fuses also. especially the fuel pump in the fuse box in the engine bay.. i made sure the little green box under the dash is plugged in from when i put the pedal in, and it is. i dont know and it is getting aggrivating because this is not a common problem. I cant find anything on the internet about it..

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biggie
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Has me stumped. Unless you moved the distributor and got it one tooth off somehow.

I'd post in the 240 Tech section.

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Jon FLA
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i just finished wiring my top and reverse lights in and they work perfect.. because i figured do everything they said on the internet for wiring and it may work.. with the whole park neutral stuff.. but i dont understand how i can take a motor out of a running car and put it in and it not fire up..

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biggie
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I didn't realize you had swapped engines.

Could be something on the wiring harness that didn't get hooked up.

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Jon FLA
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thats what my dad was saying but i have checked every plug i could find and all of them are in.... :tisk:

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biggie
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Jon FLA wrote:thats what my dad was saying but i have checked every plug i could find and all of them are in.... :tisk:
Take some pics of the engine bay, maybe someone can spot something.

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Jon FLA
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ok i went ahead and disconnected the entire upper harness and plugged it all back in.. it fired up!! but the problem is when i bypass the fuel pump relay (EGI Pump) the car revs at like 3500 rpms out of control. When i put the relay back in the pump doesnt come on. I know, it sounds like a faulty relay.. well i had 2 relays both came from running cars and it does the same with both. but atleast i got the car to fire!!

any ideas with the pump relay issue? Im going to go to radioshak and buy a bunch of OHMS resistors.. its almost the the OHMS are to high, but when i bypass the relay by jumpering the terminals together it has no issue turning the pump on.

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biggie
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Fuel pump should have nothing to do with the car running at 3,500rpms, that sounds like a big air leak, like the injector insulators.

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Jon FLA
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injector insulators!? is that the seal around the injector? the rubber o-ring? or the little rubber the injectors sit on? that sounds like a good explanation but i didnt remove the injectors and it was running good a few weeks ago, this engine was.

Do i have to do anything with the ASCD control unit? or A/T control unit? any of that stuff on the passenger side? or should it run like normal? do i need a M/T ECM? this is crazy.. if i would have known all this was gonna happen i woulda stayed auto LOL..

i need help.. :frown:

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biggie
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Insulators are the big rubber rings that the injectors sit on. For you to just crank it and it automatically jump to 3.5k rpms it seems there is an air leak somewhere or something like that. Make sure the throttle plate is closed and not hung on anything.

Shouldn't to touch any of that stuff, AT ECU is fine.

Again I'd take pics/vid and post it here and the tech thread you started. Someone should have seen this before.

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Jon FLA
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hey just wanted to let you know you have been tremendous help.

it jumps up to 3500 rpms only because i jumpered the fuel pump relay. if i dont bypass it the fuel pump doesnt even come on.. and to my understanding ppl have bypassed there fuel pump relay and worked fine. its weird.

As soon as i start the car it lopes like 2-3 times at 900rpms like normal. then it shoots up to 3500 then will drop to like 2500 the fluxuate between 2500 and 3500 back and forth.

I also tried to start the car then when it got to 3500rpms i pulled the MAF sensor plug off and it dropped to 2500rpms which is normal for when your maf is unplugged and will not go past 2500rpms.. plug it back in and it jumps to 3500..

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krash
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Like Biggie said, it sounds like a air/vaccum leak. Your fuel pump shouldn't really mess with how your engine is idling. Thats controlled by a different system.

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PyR0NiAk
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A lot of times, when people do swaps of any kind they find these relays are bad. It's not the relays that are usually the real culprit. It tends to be a shorted portion of your ECU. I did the same thing to my SR by letting a power steering line (hard line) sit against my SR's alternator. JWT repaired the ECU when they did my rom tune. It's possible that you burnt some other stuff as well. The high idle almost sounds like your MAF wiring is crossed... (or burnt together)

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Jon FLA
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car runs great. top works, reverse lights work, i used the D21 clutch and flywheel and it seems to be holding up well. not the same clutch pedal feel as im used to but it is cool.

Thanks for all the help from everyone..

Biggie thanks for all your help and hanging in there with me and not giving up on me. Thanks alot.

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biggie
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Glad its working, what was the issue?

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Jon FLA
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Dont really know lol.. I unplugged my entire wiring harness upper and lower then put it all back on, made sure my splices are all good.. then tried again and it fired up.. and the throttle shootin to 3500? i made a rookie mistake and accidentally adjusted the cruise control cable set nuts a little when putting everything back together.. heres some pics....

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