Help needed asap on removing tcs brake lines

Post by **rsiwicki** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 4:51 am

I can't get 3 of the TCS brake line nuts/fittings off that attach to the TCS unit. I am using a 10mm wrench and it is beginning to strip around the brake line nut/fitting and I don't want to proceed any further causing more stripping. It looks like the brake line nuts are "lead" or some other soflt metal alloy that is giving causing it to strip. Can I use liquid wrench on the fittings? I have never had a problem with this wrench set stripping any other nuts but I am planning to buy another 10mm wrench just in case for some reason it is not a tight fit as it should be.

Anybody with any suggestions on how to get these brake line nuts/fittings off?

Post by **elwesso** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 8:56 am

I know what your saying, the brake lines are really put in there but once theyre free its all good... All you gotta do is take some vice grips or channel locks to them, thats what I did....

Post by **Bwana** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:02 am

elwesso wrote:All you gotta do is take some vice grips to them

Stick with some good vice grips Rob. Personally, I'd stay away from the channel lock idea, too much chance of continuing the rounding process.

Post by **elwesso** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:04 am

TheColoradoQ wrote:Stick with some good vice grips Rob. Personally, I'd stay away from the channel lock idea, too much chance of continuing the rounding process.

I agree.... The vice grips are best, I used both, however.... As long as you have a nice firm grip either should work...

Post by **texasoil** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 3:21 pm

Guy-Guys you are supposed to use 'tubing' wrenches for these things. they have a slot cut in the 'box end' so they slip over the tubing, but stillprovide 6 side support/torque to the hex-nuts.

Using a pair of vise-grips may well distort the nut and result in a leak on retightening.

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 3:26 pm

texasoil wrote:Guy-Guys you are supposed to use 'tubing' wrenches for these things. they have a slot cut in the 'box end' so they slip over the tubing, but stillprovide 6 side support/torque to the hex-nuts.

Wow, as I was reading rob's first post this is exactly what I was thinking!

Also, don't forget to spray a lubricant on there first

Post by **elwesso** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 4:45 pm

texasoil wrote:Guy-Guys you are supposed to use 'tubing' wrenches for these things. they have a slot cut in the 'box end' so they slip over the tubing, but stillprovide 6 side support/torque to the hex-nuts.

Using a pair of vise-grips may well distort the nut and result in a leak on retightening.

Hmm, i didnt even know what those are...... Good informaiton...

Yay!!!! MORE TOOLS TO BUY!!!

Post by **rsiwicki** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 4:57 pm

Thanks Texasoil and others for your suggestions....but i think I am going to go with the vice=grips if I can't find the other wrench easily. This is the last thing I need to fix on the Q to get it running 100% before I officially put it up for sale as I don't want to sell a car that is not operating 100% correctly to somebody.

Post by **Q451990** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 6:08 pm

You need a HIGH QUALITY flare wrench. I had a cheap-o "made in china" brand wrench that would slip as the steel flexed open slightly under use that would cause it to slip and strip out the nut. After talking to someone at Infiniti of Scottsdale (Joe was out of town that week) I went to Sears and bought a Craftsman wrench...

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...nches

It was less than $15 and worth every dime!

Heath

Post by **Q451990** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 6:18 pm

Found the old thread on this too...

zerothread?id=30084

Post by **maxnix** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 8:23 pm

texasoil wrote:Guy-Guys you are supposed to use 'tubing' wrenches for these things. they have a slot cut in the 'box end' so they slip over the tubing, but stillprovide 6 side support/torque to the hex-nuts.

Using a pair of vise-grips may well distort the nut and result in a leak on retightening.

Thank God the monkeys aren't running this zoo, yet!

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Tue Sep 06, 2005 3:37 am

Q451990 wrote:It was less than $15 and worth every dime!

Heath

Holy crap, you paid $15 for ONE wrench!

I've got a set of those, craftsman, that I got for $10 from big lots

Post by **Q451990** » Tue Sep 06, 2005 5:54 am

PMQ Strikes again! Actually looking back on the other thread I think it was about $8.

Heath

Post by **rsiwicki** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 3:30 pm

okay....I am in need of help definitely tonight otherwise it will be the Miami-Dade public transportation to work tomorrow. I got the wrench mentioned above and it works great. Turely amazing how easy it is with the correct tools.

Anyway...How in the hell do I unplug/unclip the wires under the TCS actuator. There is a plug that clips way down under the actuator that is impossible to get to and I don't want to break anything. Can somebody describe how to unplug the thingy way down there. If I could see it the I am sure it would be very easy but just going on feelings of my finger tips having never seen what is holding the plug on is a little scary to just start yanking at things.

thanks....rob

Post by **3Q Jay** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 7:03 pm

not sure i have your answer, but the thing waaaay down that you can barely see, but has 2 wires is the tranny solenoid resistor, nothing to do with the tcs.might try removing the battery first to get a bit more working room.....

Post by **rsiwicki** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 8:43 pm

Well...public transportation here I come or maybe a cabbie.

got the TCS actuator finally swapped and all is good accordingly in that there is no TCS lights acting up any more and I can't hear the TCS thingy buzzing constanty either.

New Problem....now I have my brake light on and absolutely almost no brakes (pedal goes 99% to the floor before brakes start to work). This is the red brake light indicator when you have your parking brake on that is lighted up. What gives now? I bleeded the TCS system according to the manual and I do believe all the air bubbles are now out as initially the TCS/SLIP lights were on after the swap and then several bleeds later they went off....but the new thing was the brake light on for which it has never been on before. I ran the check for the brake booster and all is perfect as per FSM and also there are no leaks. I can't drive the car right now.

Uggh!!! The Q45 Gods are after me before I put the beast up for sale trying to get everything fixed right first.

btw GQjay....yes, that was the 2 wire clip that I was referring to. I eventually got it out after taking a timeout with a Corona or two putting my mind to rest before tackling the problem again. Sure enough...within 5 minutes I figured out how to wiggle the damn thing around to see and unplug it.

Modified by rsiwicki at 8:03 AM 9/8/2005

Post by **elwesso** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 5:58 am

Rob, you bled the TCS actuator/pump and the rear brakes???

Post by **rsiwicki** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 6:37 am

There are many things that I don't know if I really need them or not but right now I definitely need an Ice Cold Corona

Damn Midas and other brake shops are worthless....they only replace pads & rotors and bleed the system from the brakes at the wheels. Anything else they will not touch due to liability hazards....they will not touch the TCS/ABS with a 10 foot pole and also said they always recommend another shop to to master cylinder replacements when I pointed to him that the TCS thing was nothing more than a fancy master cylinder with some wires out of it.

Post by **Rex** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 6:49 am

rsiwicki wrote:... Turely amazing how easy it is with the correct tools...

SO TRUE

If I had a nickel for everytime I said or heard that I could afford all the tools to do the work

Help needed asap on removing tcs brake lines

Help needed asap on removing tcs brake lines

Re: Help needed asap on removing tcs brake lines (rsiwicki)

Re: Help needed asap on removing tcs brake lines (elwesso)

Re: Help needed asap on removing tcs brake lines (TheColoradoQ)

Re: (texasoil)

Re: (texasoil)

Re: (texasoil)

Re: (texasoil)

Re: (Q451990)

Re: (Q451990)

Re: (rsiwicki)

Re: (rsiwicki)

Re: (rsiwicki)

Re: (elwesso)

Re: (rsiwicki)

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