Actually, he asked for advice on which standalone to use (see questions). To the OP: How much money are you willing to spend? $350whp is going to cost and how much depends on who's setting it up for you. There are cheaper engine management systems out there, but be prepared to spend upwards of $1200U.S. for a better built unit. Tuning is also another thing.Ca_Silvia wrote:You never mention anything about what type of managment system you were planning to use. Start there.
I don't plan on it being a cheap or half-assed build -- but I also don't want to waste money or over-do it, that's why I am asking for adviceboost_boy wrote: Actually, he asked for advice on which standalone to use (see questions). To the OP: How much money are you willing to spend? $350whp is going to cost and how much depends on who's setting it up for you. There are cheaper engine management systems out there, but be prepared to spend upwards of $1200U.S. for a better built unit. Tuning is also another thing.
Dee
So... the stock exhaust manifold is better than SSAC ones?ca18detgabby wrote:the stock exhaust mani should be good for 350.... least it seems to result in better power than the Ebay deals.
Wouldn't a GT30R be a bit too big? GT2871R isn't enough for 350whp?ca18detgabby wrote:might consider a T3/T4 or GT30 instead and an ebay top mount mani....
YES, but I recomend costum ex. mani, thees bling- bling ones are no good.Mushiki wrote:So... the stock exhaust manifold is better than SSAC ones?
So, a T3/T04E would be better suited for my goals?Margus wrote:Engine management - MS1/2 ver3, VEMS, KMSFuel rail - stockTurbo - T3/T04E 50 trim .48 or .63ar 400whp ~650$
I see... so, considering the power goals I am aiming, what are my (best) options?ks13 wrote:I think you would be very happy with a t3/to4e 50trim as suggested above, but you need to look into it a bit more. After playing the ball bearing turbo game for the past few years, and after driving my friends journal bearing turbo'd SRs I think its clear to me what my next turbo will be.
How does smoothing out the inside of the CA exhaust manifold not make the SR exhaust no longer fit?sjbsuperman1425 wrote:now if one opted to use the stock manifold and honed it out, the SR exhaust would not be bolt up anymore (would hit frame rail), wouldn't you just need the CA18 O2 housing to bolt up the SR downpipe without contacting the frame rail? Does anybody even sell actual CA18 O2 Housings anymore to make this work?
Thank you for your input Dashdash wrote:couldn't one just hit up the dyno page on sxoc or nico, for proven combos ?Lots of hot CAs in that range on ns.com also.
For example, from memory;YCA18T used a GT28RS/0.64 ~20psi? dyno'd 244wkw (~330whp?). CA16DE inlet cam. Full boost ~3600rpm, custom mapped nistune iirc (but lots on 300+ mail-order tunes).car went 11.93 @115mph on Mickey thompson ET Street Drag radials. Ever drove an 11sec 4cyl ? He did run a stainless manifold and eliminated butterflies in the intake manifold tho.I personally would stick with stock exh mani, keep the flaps, sort your tuning, & try out 300+. ...and if ya must,for 350 I'd go 720s + t3/t4 + shorty header (cast elbows)... 400, more boost... 450+, cams
what's so special about this "350" number ?
Well....from what i could tell we were talking about honing the stock manifold....which....in no way would affect the O2 housing or exhaust fitment....CA or SR. Honing is removing material from the inside of the exhaust housing to smooth out the exhaust flow and get rid of jagged raised welds or casting marks that see excess uneven heat due to their sticking up and create fatigued/cracking welds due to this heat.sjbsuperman1425 wrote:the CA stock manifold sits at an angle compared to the CA tubular manifolds. the angle of the stock manifold used with a SR O2 Housing and downpipe, the downpipe will hit the frame rail.
i guess i wasn't clear in my question.
So, which cams would you recommend, and what other valvetrain parts should I also get?Nyborg Garage wrote:If you are going to buy cams i would not bother with the pon-cams. I would atleast go with 260degrees and 8.8mm lift, but honestly i would go for a solid 260 degree cam with 10.25mm lift. Or maybee even 270 degree if you dear to rev it 800-1000rpm past the stock limit. If you can't afford "proper" cams just go with two exhaust cams, adjustable camgears, and get them adjusted on the dyno (on a DOHC engine you can "adjust" the hp/torq curve quite a bit with adjusting the overlap)
Regarding turbos, people have mentioned the following already:Nyborg Garage wrote:For turbo i would go for a gt3071r with stock (if possible?) or a custom manifold.