Help me plan my 350whp build :)

[Nyborg Garage]

I like an engine that has a flat torq curv that is as wide as posible, and as high in the revs as posible. For example between 4500 and 8000rpm (like mobnes)

You might appreciate a smooth idle, and better low down torq. Things like that deiside what turbo, cams, ex.manifold, in.manifold, C/R (and so on!) you should go for.

Thats about all i have to say.

And last but not least: buy "forced induction tuning by A. Graham Bell" (yes, it is a book).

[Margus]

I would also go for injectors big enough for 400whp on E85, and run NIStune engine management. Z32 or bigger AFM is "a must have" on a propper settup.

A proper setup does not include air flow meter and cas

[bentvalves]

im doing the 63. 2871r and on 25 psi it hangs with my friends 3076 v-band 64. inlet at 20psi on an sr20det. His car made 357tq and 360whp on a dyno dynamics. He has solid lifter tomei cams, freddy plenum, super straight through exhaust (basically no exhaust) and a haltech e8. He has tire shredding torque, I do not however. I come into boost quicker though so it makes up for it to some extent. I almost rear ended him the other night during a hard 3rd gear uphill pull : )

[Nyborg Garage]

A proper setup does not include air flow meter and cas

lol, good one

[float_6969]

LOL, imagine that, I don't have either of those!

[Nyborg Garage]

Just to make things clear (becouse of my bad english):

I did not mean to laugh at Margus (or anything like that), he is absolutely corect. It was just a good comment to my definition of the word "proper".

Personally I am a fan of NIStune becouse of its price and simplicity. So then I will just have to stick with CAS and AFM. To get around the AFM "problem" (to some degree) i will try and mount the the N62 AFM sensor straight on to the IC piping (on the cold side, about half way between the IC and the throttle plate, and with a open BOV closer to the IC)..
Modified by Nyborg Garage at 5:40 AM 10/1/2009

[ca18detseek]

mmmm . you are not alone , maybe you must contact me. i can help

email send.

[Mushiki]

So... if my goals were closer to 300whp, it would be considerably easier?

[float_6969]

Yes, 300whp is basically bolt on stuff with a chip.

Have you read the ca18det buildup guide in the FAQ?

[Mushiki]

Yes, 300whp is basically bolt on stuff with a chip.

Have you read the ca18det buildup guide in the FAQ?

Yup!

So... now with a more reasonable 300whp as a goal, what about this setup?

- S15 BB Turbo- Stock Turbo Manifold -- or maybe a tubular bottom mount?- Stock Intake Manifold- Tial 38mm Wastegate- HKS SSQV BOV- 550cc Injectors- Tomei PonCams 256/256- 3" Exhaust- GReddy Profec B-Spec 2- GReddy Turbo Timer- APEXi AFC Neo- AEM/Innovate Wideband- FMIC- KA24 Throttle Body- Nissan Headgasket- ARP Headstuds- Walbro 255 Fuel Pump- Nismo FPR- Z32 MAF

... and a chip

I was wondering... I assume I will need a better clutch and a lightweight flywheel would be good -- any recommendations?

[bentvalves]

yep looks much better.

scratch the tubular bottom mount and stick with the stock cast piece.

and instead of the AFC neo, and greddy profec, save up and do a power FC with the optional boost control kit and be done with her on that end for good!

[float_6969]

Use the stock turbo manifold. I wish I had kept mine. The tubular bottom mount doesn't really gain you that much and it makes the turbo spool slower.

No point in a wastegate with the S15 T28

If you get a a good chip, you shouldn't really need the neo. Your local tuner should be able to rechip the ecu for your car on the dyno if it's that far off, but it shouldn't be.

You can use the Felpro HG, it will work just as well, and costs less.

I'd spring for the ARP rod bolts before I'd get the head bolts. They're the weak point. Or you could get both, lol.

I'm using a SPEC Stage 3+, but some ppl don't like spec's because the pedal pressure is really light and the friction point is in a weird spot, but once you get used to it, it's better IMHO.