help me im an idiot

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:27 pm
Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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I was enjoying the nice rain today and after spinning out I heard a loud pop, so I pull over get out and saw that my steering connecting rod {ithink thaats what its called} and it seems to have come off. I have s14 shocks froma 95 on my 91 s13, would that be why it could've happnd? Or did I just be really dumb. And is there a way to put it back on so I caan get it home?


angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:27 pm
Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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TAlso forgot to mention that when I took off the wheel it seems the shock had some resitantance turning to the right and the tower seems to be blocked @ the tower

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Warped161
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pics would really help.

angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
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Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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Not an option right now. Its still raining and i parked the car and left gonna go there tomorrow

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sx moneypit
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1986 Toyota MR2
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Sounds like you have broken a tie rod. You are going to have some resistance when you turn the strut thats normal.Call your tow service and get towed home .

angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
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Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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Yeah I figured the tie rod was gone haha, but I guess I'm more curious as to how it snapped like that. So the s14 front shocks are 100 % compatible?

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sx moneypit
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Not 100%

angrypenguin182
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here are some pics i took this morning














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sx moneypit
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1986 Toyota MR2
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Looks like it just rusted out, i dont know why they dont put grease fittings on them!

angrypenguin182
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Yeah it has to be replaced asap my dd haha, but idk what to get I'm thinkin either tein or spl but idk if I can afford atm. My bro mentioned something he saw on ebay but I don't think I'm willoing to risk it

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sx moneypit
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Yeah get the good stuff!

angrypenguin182
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I ruled out ebay cuz I called the local advanced store here and they have them, cuz I pretty much need my car by tomorrow

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sx moneypit
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If your going to Advance,tell them you want Moog parts not their cheap s**t.

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Warped161
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just think they were probably original parts, so you got a good run out of them.

angrypenguin182
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Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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another update, today i chaned out the inner tie rod, turns out i managed to bend the knuckle ever so slightly so i replaced it w/ the one from our other s13, since we 5 lugged that biatch. when we went to connect it back onto the strut it seemed that the strut was hanging too low, so we disconected the sway bar from the lca and put it all back on. but it seems that it's still not fully functional, i really think that shock from the s14 is part of the reason this all happened. any ideas? im gonna go back to my car and see what i can do cuz i had to be at work.

r3v_v3ng3
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Car: 91 fastback ka-t

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it must be something to do with the s14 shocks then

angrypenguin182
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Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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aghhhh idk wtf to do haha im like 2 seconds away from deciding to sell the damn thing. this car has run my wallet dry lol. i'm gonna try and drive it home tonight and see if i can somehow let it sit til i get new shocks for the front. this blows its my dd, but its my fault overall

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Warped161
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Welcome to the world of 240's and most older cars in general. They are a never ending money sucking vortex.

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j dubb
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Car: guess im stuck with the s10 and dreaming about the 300zx

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Warped161 wrote:Welcome to the world of 240's and most older cars in general. They are a never ending money sucking vortex.
but all hail the paid for vehicle. rather put money into something i own than pay $400+$400 (car note and insurance) and still have to make repairs. and once you pay for the repair it will hold for a while.

angrypenguin182
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Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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Haha yeah I've been dealing w/ 240's for about 4 years now and I know they're money pits I love mine its taken quite a few beatings and over the past year I've managed to rice the damn thing out so I might sell it to somke dumb ricer around her or trade for a civic and rock that til I find a better 240. Idk yet tho haha thnaks for all the feedback guys

Klits562
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tie rods snap, it happens especially in drifting. I've heard around that s14 struts are fine to use in the front but if i recall there was something to do with the knuckle fitting and the rear s14 wont fit on the s13 as they are longer.

Replace the tie rod and knuckle or replace the front struts you can try your local wrecking yard i got a pair of nice struts n springs for $150 for all 4 kyb gr-2 with megan springs.

N good luck dont worry any car is a damn money sucker

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RustspecS13
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That likely wasn't the s14 shocks fault, its just an old part.

They develop play after a long time and will break just like that. Your really lucky that it didn't do it while you were turning or in traffic or anything.

Jack your car up again, and support it by the lower control arms. Shake your front wheels left and right, and make sure there isn't ANY slop in the tie rods. All 4 tie rods (inner/outer both sides) should be completely tight.

If you fell a clunk or metal/metal tapping isolate the problem tie rod. And you just need a light shake, if you really yank left/right you'll feel the steering wheel and the joints in the steering column move.

Do this with the rear too, again it should be tight. And to check your lower ball joints just put a pry bar under them and pry up. Again any movement is BAD.

And above all else BE SAFE. Be extremely careful when your inspecting your car!

~Alex

liquid_cool
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

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RustspecS13 wrote:That likely wasn't the s14 shocks fault, its just an old part.

They develop play after a long time and will break just like that. Your really lucky that it didn't do it while you were turning or in traffic or anything.

Jack your car up again, and support it by the lower control arms. Shake your front wheels left and right, and make sure there isn't ANY slop in the tie rods. All 4 tie rods (inner/outer both sides) should be completely tight.

If you fell a clunk or metal/metal tapping isolate the problem tie rod. And you just need a light shake, if you really yank left/right you'll feel the steering wheel and the joints in the steering column move.

Do this with the rear too, again it should be tight. And to check your lower ball joints just put a pry bar under them and pry up. Again any movement is BAD.

And above all else BE SAFE. Be extremely careful when your inspecting your car!

~Alex
this is good advice man......allso..by the condition of your tie rods and how it was rusted all the way throu to snapp off at the ball joint shows a lack of basic maintinance...you should check your intire car over once each week in the critical area's.....

subframe....suspention...driveline

those are the 3 biggies for an OMG failure when ya drive on the highway or what ever.....drifting takes more than just skill in driving....it takes at the least a understanding that you will crash or break things...this goes for any car bro..they all have limits to what they can do OEM...maybe its time..you match your cars suspention..with your skill level by upgrading key components...camber/caster/rucas/tierods..inner outer...and if ya can afford it..coils.....good luck man..and keep us posted on your repair.

angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:27 pm
Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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Oh yeah I know it was my fault entirely I just wanna kow if that shock also f***ed me lol, cuz when I turn it to the left it makes a small pop sound

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sx moneypit
Posts: 8911
Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:54 am
Car: 2010 Nissan 370Z
1986 Toyota MR2
Location: Memphis,Tn.

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Check your strut mounts,they should have some resistance when turning but not bind up or pop.

angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:27 pm
Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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finally got the car towed home last night, so after work gonna raise it up and find out what else is really f***ed other than my alignment, when i drove it around the parking lot after replacing s*** when i turned the wheel it sounded like nails on a chaulk board

angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:27 pm
Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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right so last night i got her towed and while i was at work this morning my bro adjusted the tie rod a bit better for me and now it basically of course needs an alignment. i took some pics of it now in my garage. one new thing it seems that there is something scraping the rotor or maybe pads, and idk what. the rotor seems fine and the pads were replaced about 6 months ago, and i still have that pop sound coming from the shock. gonna investigate a bit further.

I'm waiting to hear from someone on sfd and see if they'll trade their s13 shocks for a turbo timer i bought.

left drivers side











right pass side








angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:27 pm
Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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what would you suggest for me to use on the tie rods for the rust. I plan on saving up to replace all that jazz, but as of now i have like no money at all

and here's the vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbtY8QAaCrY
Modified by angrypenguin182 at 2:05 PM 12/21/2009

blackandblue
Posts: 46
Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 1:38 pm
Car: 1995 240sx base w/ vlsd sway bars drop springs intake exhaust rims..

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I just did tie rod ends and lower ball joints on my 95. There used to be a pop up front when I would back up. The steering also felt sloppy and my steering wheel would shift it's straight ahead point going over bumps. That was unnerving. When I had everything disconnected for the lower ball joints, my struts swiveled on the support bushings with no resistance. That's how it should be, since they are bearings. None of the ball joints on the car should have any play. One recommended method of inspecting them is to use a pry bar to see if there is any play in the components. That saves the hassle of disassembly. Boots and grease. That's all you can do against rust in ball joints and tie rods, besides keep it clean.

angrypenguin182
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:27 pm
Car: 91' Nissan 240sx

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k so i figured out that scraping noise was due to the fact that the dust shield was a bit bent. now the only prob other than lack of alignment seems to be that i can freely turn the wheel all the way left and it's fine, but when i try to turn it all the way to the right it's met by some resistance and when i let go it jerks back


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