Thank for all the information and encouragement guys. Here is my current plan:
Spend about 1300 dollars replacing and cleaning things inside engine bay, mainly cooling system (I'll post a list of duties if you want). I'm going to switch from Quaker State 10w30 to MOBIL 1 20w50 synthetic oil. I'm also going to try the intensive maintenance previously mentioned in the thread. All in all, I don't know how much time this will buy me but I do know this:
I'm going to start saving NOW for the 8,000 it's going to take to properly replace my engine. Dennis has given me a good idea of what will need to be done. If/When my engine does fail, I will have the car taken to T3 to do an engine swap. Hopefully this will not happen for at least a couple of years, but it's always good to be the best prepared that I possibly can.
My ultimate goal is this: I am going to graduate from law school in 5 years and at that point will be making a sizable amount of money. I want to drop 25,000 into the car to FULLY restore it to factory spec. Why you ask? I love my Q and don't think I'd really be as happy driving anything else. So why should I pay 30-40-50 thousand for something when I'd be happier spending 25 on mine.
Just my thoughts and thanks again for all the help guys. THIS is why I am a part of NICO.
Nick
help? blue smoke? :(
elwesso wrote:Nick, if only every car enthusiast was like you, every car on the road would be perfect!!!!! Most people, if the car is going to cost too much, they would sell it and get something new!!
You wanna hear something even crazier??? This is my first and ONLY car!!!! (Have had it for almost 6 years)
Nick
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greg_atlanta
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
- Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)
90Q45blue wrote:I'm going to switch from Quaker State 10w30 to MOBIL 1 20w50 synthetic oil.
I'd stay away from Mobil 1 if I were you... 2 forum members (me, '92 Q, 188K) and csoluri ('92 Q, 130-40K???) have experienced "HLA clatter" (noisy valves) after using new Mobil 1 formulation for the first time.
I'd recommend using BG Quick Clean a few times and gradually using BG MOA/111 additive before you consider switching oils.
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greg_atlanta
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
- Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)
90Q45blue wrote:My ultimate goal is this: I am going to graduate from law school in 5 years and at that point will be making a sizable amount of money. I want to drop 25,000 into the car to FULLY restore it to factory spec. Why you ask? I love my Q and don't think I'd really be as happy driving anything else. So why should I pay 30-40-50 thousand for something when I'd be happier spending 25 on mine.
Just remember that a car is not an investment. It's really the biggest waste on money on the planet.
Also, income and job security are inversely related! Most people making over $100K a year will be "found out" sooner or later!
greg_atlanta wrote:I'd stay away from Mobil 1 if I were you... 2 forum members (me, '92 Q, 188K) and csoluri ('92 Q, 130-40K???) have experienced "HLA clatter" (noisy valves) after using new Mobil 1 formulation for the first time.
I'd recommend using BG Quick Clean a few times and gradually using BG MOA/111 additive before you consider switching oils.
Where u using a 30 weight oil?
fred..
greg_atlanta wrote:Also, income and job security are inversely related! Most people making over $100K a year will be "found out" sooner or later!
Ummm...as an attorney in private practice in a firm that was established in 1923 working for a guy that was my neighbor and the fact that I have been clerking for him for almost 5 years and the fact that he straight-up told me that he wants me to run the firm one day...all make me think that I won't be "found out"
Don't worry Fred, it's not something I will be talked out of. I'm not looking to "invest" in a car. I'm looking to "enjoy" a car because you only live once. I only get to drive a Q45 for a certain amount of time and then I die. No regrets. Besides, what else would I do with money? Save it? Bah.PalmerWMD wrote: Don't listen to the nay sayers.
Nick
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
AGAIN, you want to use the thinest oil that will maintain extreme hot idle oil pressure above the factory minimum. If the service manual say 14 psi, then 15-16-17 psi worst case would be fine on brand new oil and brand new filter after driving an hour in 100F ambient then pulling over and measuring while its as hot as it gets.........as the oil pressure goes up with miles on oil......the oil gets thicker to a point then when over used [too many hours] it may get thinner.....each oil varies.
Unfortunately most owners don't keep records of oil pressure tests to see the main bearing wear.
Heck I doubt 10 Q people in the US have ever measured their oil pressure accurately.............kind of driving around blind as to what is the correct brand and thickness of oil for your engine and miles.
Brand new changes of Mobil 1 10w30 still meets the numbers after 253,000 miles ----- just barely with 15 psi.
Of course in Summer heat you can use Mobil 1 15w50.......just change it to a lower thickness by October ...........study the oil temperature accurately to avoid the thicker oil raising the oil temperature too much........probably will increase oil temp by 5-7F.
Unfortunately most owners don't keep records of oil pressure tests to see the main bearing wear.
Heck I doubt 10 Q people in the US have ever measured their oil pressure accurately.............kind of driving around blind as to what is the correct brand and thickness of oil for your engine and miles.
Brand new changes of Mobil 1 10w30 still meets the numbers after 253,000 miles ----- just barely with 15 psi.
Of course in Summer heat you can use Mobil 1 15w50.......just change it to a lower thickness by October ...........study the oil temperature accurately to avoid the thicker oil raising the oil temperature too much........probably will increase oil temp by 5-7F.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Flywheel HP is the sum of the BMEP less the FMEP.If you can't make more pressure you can almost always lower the friction with thinner oils. Most of the friction in a Q motor comes from the piston rings........the oem rings were designed to last 500,000 miles with just 90 day oil changes therefore and to reduce oil usage they were vey tight from factory.......long breakin period.
This Q would be a good candidate to try Auto-Rx in. Auto-Rx can't fix mechanical problems but it can clean up around the valve stem seals and rings. That should buy you some more time and I for one would like to see results from a car in distress. I did my J30 as preventive maintenance and will get a used oil analysis on my oil when I change out to confirm cleaning.
Auto-Rx Overview
Auto-Rx Overview
elwesso wrote:Is it ok to use that Auto-Rx stuff in the engine, even though it is for trannys........?
Auto-Rx can be used in the motor, transmission, and power steering fluid.
ATF and power steering fluid have a viscosity rating of ISO 68 and is a hydraulic oil(very thin) so the treatment amount is different(less Auto-Rx) because the ATF can not suspend/carry as much as thicker motor oil. It works out though as the transmission does not get combustion byproducts so is not as dirty as the engine. Auto-Rx is left in the transmission longer if you look at the application instructions.
90Q45blue, if you decide to use the Auto-Rx it works best with a regular dino oil as it is ester based and the esters in synthetic oils compete with the cleaning esters in Auto-Rx.