I am new to the turbo but not the 240, I had a few NA's in the past. I just bought the car about a month ago and got it for about $2K after realizing im pretty much done modding my Y34. When I bought it, it had a rough idle, a birds nest full of wires and would stall as soon as it hit boost. I took it to my wiring guy and he made it look alot cleaner and installed a tps sensor. It now runs but still stalls. I was advised it was the bov thats doing it because it does not close fast enough(COULD THAT BE TRUE?) The bov is an ebay Tial knockoff and the spring is probaly worn out, anywho if someone can help me IM LISTENING.... Anyways on to the pics..Oh, I know this turbo setup is very weird, but will be changed back to the "normal" look soon.
Do they still make cheap knockoff Tial Bov's? I have searched ebay all over and they are $260 bucks for a knockoff, thats crazy







You can hear it too well but when i give it throttle the car bogs out everytime the bov opens, you'll be able to see it in the rpm's though then when into boost it dies completly. Im guessing that white smoke from the exhaust is not normal?
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZMmTVvx6VA[/youtube]

Welcome! Hopefully someone will chime in here soon; I've never really worked with boosted motors, but I don't think the stalling is a result of the BoV. You'll generally have boost leakage rather than a stalling issue.

Regardless, that's a nice 240. What kind of wheels do you have?

i dont see your afm? must be on the cold side. If the bov is after the air flow meter and leaking it could be the problem. Or my second thought on it is plugs, whats the gap set and what plugs are in it?

what manifold is that, I bet you could mount a huge snail in that space, shorter runs to the ic too..
odd but cool

neverlift wrote:i dont see your afm? must be on the cold side. If the bov is after the air flow meter and leaking it could be the problem. Or my second thought on it is plugs, whats the gap set and what plugs are in it?

what manifold is that, I bet you could mount a huge snail in that space, shorter runs to the ic too..
odd but cool

You can just see his MAF connected to the end of the pink pipe on the cold side. The manifold is nice, but check out that angle the downpipe takes when it leaves the turbine. That's a nasty change in direction for the exhaust coming right out of the turbo.

As far as stalling goes, if the bov is vented to the atmosphere it creates a very rich condition every time it goes off because it is releasing some of the air your MAF has already measured. The best thing to do is run a bypass valve. This routes the vented air from the bov to the intake pipe going to the turbo, but after the MAF.

Also, if it falls on it's face as soon as you come into boost it's usually a bad vacuum leak, such as a coupler that's loose or cracked.

We should be able to help get her running good.

If I had that manifold and turbo location, I'd have a front fender exhaust exit at the track That would be friggin sweet.

Welcome to KAT

oh I see it, no filter is tough.

I too would runn the outlet straight out the fender, and spit fire at anyone who looked cross

Hello,

That car was originally mine...The setup was never intended to use the factory ecu.. I was going to put my standalone on it thats why it had that blow off valve.. That is a knock off Tial bov it cost me $60.00 they don't sell them on ebay, but I know a seller that still can get them. I can already tell he changed the front mount from how it looks all bent.. Does it have a 4" core?

The car was meant to have individual coils, remove the maf and it would be a lot cleaner but you are going to need a standalone for that. I already installed EMS on two ka's using a trigger disc that aem uses with there standalone..

I can't believe you payed $2000.00 for that car. The turbo alone cost me $750.00 its worth more. I made the manifold also.. I wanted it tig welded but my friend mig welded it and practically ruined it for me, it really killed what i was trying to pull off. I did the downpipe and the welding for the muffler and one of those vband clamps, the one thats like half way, on the down pipe is like a $60.00 setup its good stuff right there lol. It has some old school muffler I wish I had it on my s14 it was so quiet. I also threw in a Sc300 Fuel pump real quick one day because the old one was bad, so the car is probably still running rich im sure the kid that you got it from couldn't fix it, he said he was going to put his aem and it was gonna be good lol. The s14 i got from him didn't change gears ( was automatic) no dash lights worked, windows didn't work, sunroof didn't work. He brought me a s14 for trade, the car was all f*** up lol and he didn't tell me any of this before he came. He was lucky it was a white s14 and some of the parts he had on the car I was able to sell. Long story short was that he couldn't get anything to work and he spent months trying to fix it and driving in 2 gears only lol... Well it took me a few hours to fix and it was a ignition relay.

All those bends are from ace stainless like $200.00+ in just those little pipes $75 for the collector, $45 for the flanges. The car already had the 5 lug on it when i bought it. It had a siezed motor and was sitting for a long time. Payed $650 for the car. If you have any other questions let me know. Just post here.

Always good to have the history of a car.

hey you said you were going to take it back to "the normal look" let me know if you wanna get rid of that exhaust mani

Thank you everyone for the warm welcome and all the help, ill take everything into consideration.

@Wdracing: Yes, thats exactly what is doing. As soon as I hit boost the car falls on its face. I can drive under boost all day with still rough idle but in the boost range boom...dead. The bypass valve, is that the same thing as putting a recirculating bov. If i was to do that, that would put the recirc hose right in the middle of the pink/purple pipe?(after the maf/before the turbo).

@gaehrings13: dude, please call me. I pm'd you my number. Im so glad you saw this post and im so anxious to get her on the road. I can tell you used some high quality stuff looks great. All I have done so far was is redo wiring give her an oil change, seafoam and engine restore. I though maybe it would smooth up the idle, but it didnt. The knock sensor not being thier could that also play a part for the rough idle. What im looking at now for the possible problem would be the a vaccum leak which im pretty postive it is, an exhaunst leak which is coming from the manifold(broken manifold bolt) or the BOV.

I will post a video in the morning showing what the BOV does, I dont know if was you or the guy i bought it from who cut the spring in the BOV but it is too short now and does not have enough strength to keep the cylinder shut. The cyclinder goes open,close,open,close,open,close on idle..lol and everytime it opens the car stalls. When I pinch the vaccum line leading to the BOV it runs with no problem, let go...back to rough idle again. I need to know what size spring is in there right so i can order a stronger uncut one... Thanks again for explaining your setup..please call(anytime, im a night owl).
Yes its 4" in core now, which im changing to 3". The bottom if the core is pretty much destroyed from curbs or parking stops. Oh by the way, the exhaust has its inerts(baffeling) hanging out the tip...weird!!

nofatchicks0073 wrote:hey you said you were going to take it back to "the normal look" let me know if you wanna get rid of that exhaust mani

pm'd

i tried to message you back but it says your pm's are disabled just shoot me a message when ever youre ready to get rid of it i just moved to ky but my chick is still down in naples fl so i might have her grab it from you depending on what part of fl your in

nofatchicks0073 wrote:i tried to message you back but it says your pm's are disabled just shoot me a message when ever youre ready to get rid of it i just moved to ky but my chick is still down in naples fl so i might have her grab it from you depending on what part of fl your in

Sorry about the pm thing, ive tried to enable it but just cant figure it out. Ill get with ya though.

I went and enabled it for ya.
You should be able to receive PMs now.

I thought he took out the fmic and put another one in. That fmic is only like $137 shipped.. get the same one so you don't have to redo anything to put it in. I had that fmic in there perfect. Well the mani wasn't leaking when I installed it last.. so maybe he took it out and redid something. Is the bolt thats broken the one thats behind the powersteering pump? If it is that one was already messed up like that. I forgot to say that the head was rebuilt with new valve seals and a complete valve job.. I threw in some cheap headgasket that was laying in the back of the car, just to get it running. My number is 786-286-1738 maybe we can arrange something and meet up if you want to do some work on the car.. I live in North miami. Im really cheap too lol.

The bov was fine the way it was.. the kid probably wwanted the bov to sound louder. You can just get a tial bov spring wich I can source for you locally, or at least tell you where to go. That bov actually stays open sometimes... even at idle its a little open (thats the way they are even the tial bov's). Your best bet is to change it if your not planning on going standalone, or move your maf behind it wich you would have to redo the piping for that.. playing with the air flow meter is going to be a pain in the butt. I can't stand the factory computer with the maf setup...

What i would do to that car is (if I was you).. get a normal manifold, redo the exhaust piping, get a 38mm wastegate with like a 7psi spring. For tuning some 480cc injectors, safc and pull some timing off of the distributor.. and also like a said change the bov. Thats one of the biggest reasons that car is not running good. Boost 9-10 lbs and make around 300hp easily ka's are really fun. I'm almost ready to do my s14 just need a turbo, wastegate and a few other parts.

If you call me and I don't pick up please leave a message. I don't answer to numbers that I don't know.

^^^

What i would do to that car is (if I was you).. get a normal manifold, redo the exhaust piping, get a 38mm wastegate with like a 7psi spring. For tuning some 480cc injectors, safc and pull some timing off of the distributor.. and also like a said change the bov. Thats one of the biggest reasons that car is not running good. Boost 9-10 lbs and make around 300hp easily ka's are really fun. I'm almost ready to do my s14 just need a turbo, wastegate and a few other parts.

This is excactly what im going to do...lol. How long you think that headgasket you put is going to hold up, do you recommend changing it if was an old gasket you found. The valve job, was it just a stock job or a 3/5 angle workover.

Thanks Razi..

Razi wrote:I went and enabled it for ya.
You should be able to receive PMs now.

Such a sweetheart.

No. lol it wasn't a used headgasket it was a brand new one, I believe it was a corteco gasket. Just a normal valve job nothing special. I did re use the stock headbolts,its not the best thing to do but I was just getting the car running so I didn't care..... If you want you can put a new stock nissan gasket and some arp's would be a lot better.

Get a Super sequential hks bov or get a bov that you can reroute the air from the bov back to the intake behind the afm. Thats the only thing you can do.

you can run blow through, and have the bov pre maf(could be done with some couplers) so you dont dump unmetered air.

IBCoupe wrote:

Razi wrote:I went and enabled it for ya.
You should be able to receive PMs now.

Such a sweetheart.

neverlift wrote:you can run blow through, and have the bov pre maf(could be done with some couplers) so you dont dump unmetered air.

Is it fine to change to that type of setup and not do a retune? Though, Spooled240 has been doing it with no issues.

razi I have swapped back and forth 30 times, on tuned ecu,non tuned with fmu,and safc tuned via wbo2.

I honestly feel blow through just before the throttle body is the most accurate, I know the afm cannot read pressure, but it does read the air flow. I want my motor to get timing relative to the inlet temps rather pre compression(heating) on the cold side. Plus I like vent to atmosphere and faster warm ups, along with slightly better mpg.
The only afm I had pop a top was a junkyard ka maf. And even then I used some 5 minute epoxy at the parts store and went on with it.

I would need a recirculating bov for blow through method, correct? The one i currently have wont work im assuming because of the one outlet from the banjo.

neverlift wrote:razi I have swapped back and forth 30 times, on tuned ecu,non tuned with fmu,and safc tuned via wbo2.

I honestly feel blow through just before the throttle body is the most accurate, I know the afm cannot read pressure, but it does read the air flow. I want my motor to get timing relative to the inlet temps rather pre compression(heating) on the cold side. Plus I like vent to atmosphere and faster warm ups, along with slightly better mpg.
The only afm I had pop a top was a junkyard ka maf. And even then I used some 5 minute epoxy at the parts store and went on with it.

Makes sense! Especially with the different air temps between the intake and cold pipe.

Maybe I'll swap to a blow through!

infinitedrift wrote:I would need a recirculating bov for blow through method, correct? The one i currently have wont work im assuming because of the one outlet from the banjo.

No, only with a pull through setup is a recirc'd bov necessary.
In a blow through, just have the BOV somewhere before the MAF on the intercooler piping and you'll only be dumping unmetered air.

Well, changed the injectors today to 370cc. The injectors came with the car so im hope they work. I might to do a fuel rail test and injector test to find out. Also, recieved my ecu back from Enthaply so I went ahead and slapped that in. I do believe my spark plugs are fouled though, you tell me from the pics...lol. i really hope this is the reason for my rough idle.





yep, every last one of them were like this, also smelled a hint of gasoline. They were not wet with gas but just smelled like it, is that normal

ur plugs being black means ur running rich,change ur plugs...

do u have a wideband? look at ur afrs n see what they are at idle n boost,, if u have a tuned ecu, u might need to get a safc n get someone to fine tuned it so it wont be as rich/lean.. also i would not get rid of that mani, its a nice set up, i would just change that elbow on the exhaust exit, thats cant be that good for the turbo....

Yes, I do have a wideband and safc2 but thier not installed yet soon though. The mani IS nice but really have no use for now, if it doesnt sale maybe ill keep it for another build one day.

As for the spark plugs, I bought NGK BRK6E-11 today gonna give im a try. Those in the pic are BRK7EIX but thier so hard to find in the auto parts store actually even BRk7E were impossible to find locally. I ened up ordering those from Amazon just in case the BRK6E-11's dont work well.

Yeaaaaa, Its X-mas in April. On the plate is a:

CxRacing coolant resivoir

HKS Bov(most likely knock-off)

Innovate Motorsports turbo timer and wideband

T4 top mount manifold

CxRacing intercooler

300zx fuel filter

and Intercooler piping

I was driving it today for the first time in ages. After replacing the spark plugs it idles very well just a little rough but thats due to the current bov. I was so excited that I was driving the car I hit hard boost and this happend...

car wouldnt go past 10 miles per hour with gas pedal floored. Guess I gotta refit it.

Hi, I just saw your pm today lol... never really log in to nico lately. I am glad your getting somewhere with that car. That manifold is going to suck with clearance on that turbo, unless you get a on-center turbo housing. You should get that cx racing manifold that they sell for like 265$... looks like it has really good fitment.

Have you set the base timing on that distributor yet... make sure you have all that set before you start trying to boost the motor.

Who taped that harness like that lol... that kid you got the car from did the same s*** to the car that i have now and he did it to everything.. and i mean everything.. that is the worse thing you can do to a harness is put that crap everywhere lol....

I have my s14 almost done.. all ebay stuff hahaha. except wastegate. Im going to post a thread in a few days.. just need to clean up the bay first.

Cx Racing Watercooled GT35
Speed daddy manifold $90 lol
i made the downpipe from scraps from my old job
tial knock off bov
precision turbo 38mm wastegate
Ems Standalone
850cc Fic Injectors
Cheap fuel rail
Fuel lab Fpr
you get the idea lol. im going to post a build thread soon anyway.





pic of car.. remember i got this car from the kid you got yours lol.. you shouldve seen it before.

^^^^ glad to see your getting back into the game..lol. I really wanted to see you do another manifold like the one you built to see some hp numbers in it. If I'm going to have clearance issues I might have still use it. What's your opinion on the 90* bend coming from the turbo, I keep getting told it's not good for the turbo. Hopefully next monday she should be up and running, then comes the suspension.

A little update, put a new shift boot in to replace the Crown Royal bag


Gutted the rear and primed and painted flat black. Has a little surface rust but to care of that.

A 90 degree elbow won't hurt anything.. ive have done that to a lot of cars when I use to work at my old job... 1j's 2j's and a lot of other cars.. I really don't see a cleaner way to do it than that way. Lol just don't do it facing the shock tower, i did like that once and it was retarded. I mean no matter what you going to have a 90 somewhere. Just try not to make a lot of super sharp bends like that or you will have a pressure drop between the turbo and the intake, I have seen people do that before.


I didn't want to get to crazy with this build because I want to put a 2jz in the car, and im planning to re use most of the parts, minus the manifold. If i do the 2jz im going to build a log manifold..