He said he can make them accomodate up 10 and 12, MAYBE 15...ddrumman wrote:Hey PMQ,What size woofer would your "stealthbox" accommodate? I hope a 10".
D.
12 would probably be best...
He said he can make them accomodate up 10 and 12, MAYBE 15...ddrumman wrote:Hey PMQ,What size woofer would your "stealthbox" accommodate? I hope a 10".
D.
Yep, it'll accoomidate a 8, 10, 12, and I may be able to get a 15 in there if I angle the baffle slightly upwards.ddrumman wrote:Hey PMQ,What size woofer would your "stealthbox" accommodate? I hope a 10".
D.
Not coming from the guy that always quotes sensitivity numbers like they're the end all be all factor when choosing speakers .PoorManQ45 wrote:... Make sense?
Do you mean, is the enclosure for larger drivers going to have more airspace? No. That'd require quite a bit more work. What I'm doing is maximizing the beginning airspace, and if needed I can REDUCE the air volume.USsil80 wrote:i know that you said that is would accomidate a wide varity of subs... but does the box air size change to haddle the bigger sizes
Hehe, Sensitivity is very important. I wish Altec Lancing still made their 15s/18s that had 99dB 1w/1m sensitivity and handled like 50 watts RMS.Rex wrote:Not coming from the guy that always quotes sensitivity numbers like they're the end all be all factor when choosing speakers .
Yes, but if he makes it as big as he can, then poly-fil can be used to effect more air space and other materials can be used to effect less air space.USsil80 wrote:yea the air space is what i was talking about.... 15 take alot more than 8
Good idea, but that'd be a really big PITA because it'd be really hard to remove sinse the enclosure would be covering up the port. Thus you couldn't remove the port without removing th esub first. But good idea.DrewQ45 wrote:1. There is a pass-thru from the trunk to the gas tank area via the jack compartment. This means that you can port the sub through that hole. The scissor jack would have to be relocated (preferably to a garbage can since it's a POS... and too flimsy to support the weight of the Q anyway)
Yep, that's what I've been saying. BUT there is room in the rear deck. Where that little compartment is. There's enough space there to fit a 10, possibly a 12, in an Aperiodic Mat enclosure.DrewQ45 wrote:2. There is no room for an effective sub of any kind in the enclosed gas tank area. Years ago I installed a power amp in this area by screwing it to the underside of the package shelf...that's about all you can fit there.
Thank you. I'll ask if I need any help.DrewQ45 wrote:3. PoormanQ45, you are one sharp individual for thinking this up. Hats off to you. I've done a bit of sound work on the Q so anything I can do to help....
Did you get gagged and bagged...againDrewQ45 wrote:Having spent some time lately laying on my back in the trunk - (working on my audio system) I can confirm a few things.
Hey PMQ maybe it's not just Wes that's being inpatient.PoorManQ45 wrote:You are an impatient one Wes
Just got back from a small fishing trip(weekend). So no progress. More info later
No problem. I've been into car audio for quite a while, and I've NEVER seen a Q done right.PoorManQ45 wrote:Oh thanks man, now I'm going to have to start a new project
Thanks for the link though.
That's comingddrumman wrote:The one that would be my absolute favorite would be the "sound deadening" part. I'd love to see someone rip everything out and start from scratch.
. Have I not taught you anything? Dynamat is overpriced CRAP. Raamat is half the price with the same results. Also, rubber coating in a can works wonders . I'm about to take out the back seat deadning and spray the metal with it. I'll probably build it up to ~1mm(very thick). THEN I'll put dedicated sound deadning material on it.elwesso wrote:I agree... Thatd be a great weekend project, to pull the entire interior of the Q and dynomat the crap out of it... Floor panels, roof, doors, and so on... It would be great......