D_Stirls wrote:Can't run hydraulic lifters over 9.3mm as the supply gallery will then be covered at peak lift.
This is really my only concern here, my friend. As for the 4 port/8 port butterfly thing, to each his own as I chose not to use them because the seals are old and will fail which will cause your engine to have weird rich running conditions due to a massive vacuum leak as well as some other ghost issues. Then engine does not have the displacement to enjoy driving off boost and there are too many bulky and outdated components that makes for a very untidy engine bay as well as something else to baby-sit, so after dealing with failed butterfly valve seals in 2000, I decided to stay away from them and compensate for their function via tuning.
Now that that is out of the way, let's address the concern at hand.
FACT: you can actually use bigger cams with the hydraulic lifters without disturbing or blocking-off the supply gallery as stated in D_Stirls' quote. Too many myths of what cannot be done has been introduced over the last decade and a half and I felt it was time to put a few of them to rest.
Evidence: My very own 1993 nissan 240sx coupe with CA18DET installed. The head carries JUN cams with a spec of 272 duration with a 9.3mm lift, nissan Z32 heavy duty race valve springs, standard oem (but healthy) hydraulic lifters and a head that is ported and polished. Bottom end is .020 over with oem nissan slugs, standard rods, non nissan nor ACL bearings, polished crank and fresh oil pump. On a dynomometer, my car put out an impressive 536whp @ 32psi of boost (2nd pull). I was never concerned about the camshafts being too much for the lifters because because if Tomei's 270 (8.8mm) work in my other motors with hydraulic lifters, then why not the JUN units.
Conclusion: What makes my engines any different from anyone else's? I did nothing fantastic, but took a chance on parts that I wanted to use, installed them in my engine, tuned the engine to what I feel is acceptable and away I went. The car idles a little lumpy, sucks on fuel economy, but it also has A/C and power steering which helps tremendously here in Florida.
Evidence #2: To get an idea of who this kid is, here's a link to his old set-up:
overboosted180-s-ca-powered-s13-on-the- ... 91114.html
Here's a link to his most current set-up. [youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPn-EQSa ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]
[youtubewww.youtube.com/watch?v=SPn-EQSacO4
][/youtube]
Build Spec: Standard bore CA18DET impregnated with CP sluds, XC rings, non-nissan nor non-ACL bearings, polished crank, honed and assembled by me. Head consists of JUN 272 camshafts with a 10.5mm, head clearanced for bigger camshaft lift, standard oem (but healthy) hydraulic lifters, JUN valve springs, head meticulously ported and polished (most of the money is in the head), block and head sealed via a cometic gasket and ARP head studs.
Conclusion: It worked once, why not do it again. There's no starving cams for oil and there are no mechanical issues here, either. D-Stirls' post forced me to share information that I would not normally share, but buyers be aware, you don't go slapping this stuff on your engine without having the car tuned for it. It requires work, money and more work to make this all function as one. Nothing cheap about it, so don't take this info and say "Well, Dee said" because I would tell you this is a play at your own risk hobby. BTW, he has no butterfly valves for his 8 port head either and his car rather powerful and as fast as my own.
