guess what happens when you go to redline

[Darius]

He was racing at the time of failure. I'm hoping he stopped instead of trying to limp it home.

[Fibre guy]

I regret not getting the crank collar welded on when I was doing my build, and I have an N1. I hope I don't end up like this guy....

*Edit* Wait I forgot to answer you.Q: What happens when you get to redline?A: You shift... D'oh

[Yellow4g63]

http://www.spoolimports.com/

You can find rods and pistons here for your 26/25/20

[maryjane]

i have cp 8:5s and a cometic h/g running 23 daily and 27-28 for track use. been dogging it for 2 years with that same set up. dog off boost with the large single turbo but on boost she scoots

[rb25det250sx]

He was racing at the time of failure. I'm hoping he stopped instead of trying to limp it home.

yeah i went home and got the trailer

[autocrossing]

I still have only seen one picture proving the collar is an actual issue on RBs.

I know it makes sense to modify them, especially when revving pretty high. Just there is little actual proof besides people on forums across the world saying "the short snout will lead to failure" when Ive seen tons of proof of people driving the piss out of their RB's with no collar modification and no failure.

agreedlol that post would earn you a permanent ban on gtr.co.uk

[20DET]

is 93 octane the highest u can get in the big bad america??

here in NZ we can get 98RON in any city from multiple garages....and our s*** fuel for crappy cars is 91...id never put that in my car

[rb25det250sx]

yup. and theres pry only one place in iowa to get it, and it an hour and a half drive to do so...i've been running 92 from the local gas station. thats all i've ever ran in it.

[Carl H]

they rank octane differently in europe and asia, its only the RON number where in the us its a ron + mon / 2 to get the octane rating...your 98 octane is akin to our 93.

[20DET]

my fuel is 98 ron which is 98 octane not 93 mate

[20DET]

we can also get 98 octane bio fuel here with a 10percent bio ethonol mix...but its bad for 02 sensors

[Carl H]

right you have 98RON octane our octane is (RON + MON)/2.trust me the argument has been made several times before but in the end its the same number just different rating systems.

[Cjmartz2k]

they rank octane differently in europe and asia, its only the RON number where in the us its a ron + mon / 2 to get the octane rating...your 98 octane is akin to our 93.

[Fibre guy]

CarlH and Cjmartz2k don't say what their not sure of.

[Booztd 3]

i've revved mine out to 8500 plenty of times before and one accidental trip to 9200...still out and about!

+1 for this

My redline is set to 8500 and I downshifted from 3 to 2 once and it saw 9400 in the AEM log file...

[Racinjitter]

Same, I am with Carl.. FWIW here in Michigan we can get 94 at the pump in almost all areas, and 110 leaded or unleaded at about 30 different stations in the greater Detroit area.

[Booztd 3]

I'll jump in and say ....

E85 FTW (if available in your area) lol

[cody180sx]

yeah E85 is the shiz i think the octane is like to 100-106 depending on the time of year(sadly not available in my area or i'd tune the damn thing for E85)

Ethanol Alternative Fuel - E85 Secrets

Next, just as with conventional gasoline, with E85 and other ethanol blends there are multiple ways to measure octane. When we speak of the pump or road octane of a fuel generally we mean the (R+M)/2 method, where two separately derived ratings, research octane (RON) and motor octane (MON), are added together and their sum divided by 2. For example, if the motor octane of a gasoline is 90 and its research octane is 98, its (R+M)/2 or pump octane is 94. This averaged value, also known as antiknock index or AKI, is the number shown on gas pumps here in North America.

NZ FTL:rotflmao

Modified by cody180sx at 9:28 PM 8/12/2009
Modified by cody180sx at 9:40 PM 8/12/2009

[Tofubadguy]

Hey man. Sorry to hear about the trouble with your RB25.

Would like to eventually see some pics when you do get around to pulling it apart. I'm new to the RB scene as far as being an owner, but they certainly do seem durable if anything. I mean up to 500ish horse on stock lower end for the most part is really pretty amazing. Hopefully all you did is wipe the bearings. I've seen pics where on other 'interference' motors where the bearings do spin, ie. rotate in the rod, but don't get stacked on top of each other, not to much damage was done other than a cut on the crank and some new rods being needed, or the old rods' & cap mate surface machined down .020 or so and then bored back out to new. Which if you find a reasonable shop (one who you actually have confidence in, which is usually the hardest thing to find) may be the cheaper way to go to clean up the rods.

Or in some cases with interference motors, the bearing halves do stack up on top of each other & unfortunately wind up on the bottom/cap side pushing the piston up high enough to tag the head, valves... = extra bad on top of already normal bad.

I've raced the Toyota 22R with the 20R head for years & never had an oiling or bearing issue. On the other hand my brother raced a straight 20R and spun all of his bearings when he ran out of oil because of a pin hole in his oil filter. Interesting thing on his motor though.... when we pulled it apart the crank was still great looking. Measured perfect & the few light lines it had I took out with some 600grit & a nice thin gas/oil mixture while I watch a movie one night. We had piles of 20R & 22R stuff so we grab the best 4 rods we could, cleaned them up, replaced all the bearings, flushed everything really good, used the same oil pump & he ran that thing hard for another two seasons.

Sorry to go to such lengths of story telling just to say be optimistic. But that's what I'm getting at kind of. The crank may just need a cut & maybe even just a polish... Well that's if your oil pressure now sucks or just isn't anymore. Generally speaking, if you still have oil pressure but it knocks like hell... check to see of your head gasket is just blown between two cylinders, or if a wrist pin decided to make a nice oval home in its respective piston. Both sound just like dead bearings.

Good luck dude!

Russell

[projectcoupes13]

I agree ^ With mine it sounded like hell right before we pulled it out of my buddies car, sounded like lego's got dumped off in the motor, But when we started taking it apart we found that it was only one lone bearing, just spun slightly and worn thin. The crank and the rod were somehow free of any gouging, or even minor scrapes for that matter. I dont know how but it's either these things are ridiculously tough or i got ridiculously lucky. Hopefully its choice A and yours will be all good man