I'm leaning on towards the GT25R side now, but I still have some questions. Someone please answer me.
1. If I get it, do I have to shave it or whatever inorder for it to clear the engine mount like other sites said so?
2. I know it doesn't come with a WG, so I have to get like a HKS one, is it good for max psi, which is 21 PSI for this turbo?
3. Is the WG Bracket easy to make or can you get it elsewhere?
4. Any other factor that I need attention to? Like IC Piping, Oil/Water lines, anything...????
I know Paul has this turbo, so I'm counting on you man. Now, back to reality, oops there goes gravity...I mean let's get the thread started.
My car mod...
*Greddy Intake Manifold*Greddy O2 Housing*SS Header*SS Cat.*Split Fire system*550cc Injectors*J30 VLSDHKS FMIC Type R3" Catback Blitz Nur Spec RSAFC IIWalbro Fuel Pump, 255300Z Fuel FilterGreddy Profec B
The * mods are set up for the turbo, all I need is...the TURBO.Otherwise, my car only makes 232 RWHP at 14psi with the T2Small
GT25R Turbo HELP!!!
-
Da Supervisor
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 5:52 am
i'll give it a go...1. i actually shaved a little from the turbo-it's got a weird thick section, and i shaved a little from the motor mount.... then i cut a peice of brake booster tubing down one side, lubed it up with cooking oil(you want it to actually go away eventually) and slipped it inbetween the two.2. i got the wastegate from the guy who sold me the turbo (still new) and it looks pretty easy to make, you should just make a mokup with coat hanger and have someone weld it up... don't let them charge you more than 20 bux... how can i post a pic?3. 21 psi is the max, but this turbo is not made to be run at maximum psi.... while it is a great high hp turbo, the real benefit of this turbo is using the 't2small' turbine as you put it, to spoll to it's efficiency range very very fast which is still around the stock (a little higher)17 lbs or so.... now the large compressor with the small a/r ratio gets spinning somewhat quickly too, but doesn't like to push too many psi (remember the small a/r that made it spool so fast) and drops off in efficiency very rapidly until innefficiency is reached... where does max FLOW (which is what really matters not psi) end up for the compresor? conveniently at 17-19 psi... do you think the hks engineers just stumbled upon this combination... i don't think so, and i bet that anyone else with this turbo can say that it's the best 17lbs ever.... ever..... for a good example the gt25r make max FLOWS 602 cfm at 19 psi you can drop down to 564 cfm and gain about 10% efficiency back at 17psi.... the hks2835 (which i have heard many people say is the superior of these two brothers) FLOWS 608cfm at 24.6 psi.... now that hardly seems like the superior turbo.... people just say that it takes too long to spool the big t4 compressor on the gt25r, but that's because they ask it to spool for too long... let it breathe.... don't make it run up a hill.... get my drift? and as for drifting, keeping the boost low with this turbo, keeps power on all day long.... like your t25 was a toy....4. it doesn't have the holes to bolt on the intake adapter and hotpipe adapter, so you have to remake both.... and as for lines... how can i post a pic? i have a great hydraulic supply store that helps me think through everything.... you'd be impressed with the stainless steel set up for my turbo, (the only hard line that works is the one that barbs into the soft coolant return line behind the block) and my oil filter reloc. and my oil cooler, and my fuel rail and fpr, and my oil temp and press sensor.... i'd say that the only things i've got that you don't are 740s, some oil goodies, big *** fans, thermostat, and i've got the gt spec exhaust.... oh and stock ignition... and i can't post any numbers because i got a good deal on a younger block and am in the process of switching out blocks so i have one to build.... but last week, this thing was running nice as ever.... i used to have an 11sec daily driven third gen, and while this sr isn't as fast, it pulls almost as hard.... like walking behind the swing set and getting hit by a fat kid on his backswing.... i really need a better lsd now...let me know if i forgot anything
-
AznRide
- Posts: 924
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 5:36 pm
- Car: Cars, hondas, import cars, girls, cars, girls, girls, and more beautiful girls.
First, how the hell can you make a WG? Don't you mean something else? Anniiiwaaays, The GT25R at ATPTurbo is like 750 bucks, while the GT25/40R is 1075 and I think this is the turbo we have been talking because they claimed that it produces upto 450 while the other is 320. I think the only reason you running rich because you have 740cc and only pushes out around 350...that is way too much. Even the S15 pushes out 320 uses 480cc.What do you mean a new thermostat???What does the hydrolic supply store sell that benifits you?What do you mean lube it between the two????This might be out of the topic, but anyone can answer this, you are welcome to: How do I make my cluster Temperature gauge work?
i've got the 2540r sorry for any confusion.... just a lower temp thermostat in my cooling system..stainless lines, all types of fittings, conversions from british to metric to standard and back again, tight bends, etc... the compressor sits right next to the block, so you need some angles to go straight down, and then around the compressor, and most importantly they are experts.... they can think it through like me messing with an afc... i made an oil cooler kit for $300 that is way bigger (and looks just as pretty)than the greddy one that's sold for 700-1000buxi squeezed the peice of brake booster line inbetween the m.mount and the compressor to act as a little vibration dampner, i lubed it up with cooking oil so i could slide it in there (tight) and the cooking oil will wash or cook off and leave a good tight fit....
Keep in mind that even the S15 turbo requires some modifications for redtop owners. Most of what has to be done on it has to be done on the GT25R. The hotpipe and intake tube connections are either different(GT25R) or have been rotated(S15 T28).
loudbay...do you think that if I got the taka motorsports stainless braided lines for the T28 on redtop that they would work for the GT25R?
Sounds to me like the only different between the S15 turbo and the GT25R is you have to spend about 20 minutes grinding the motor mount bracket and the GT25R makes an extra 50-100hp.
loudbay...do you think that if I got the taka motorsports stainless braided lines for the T28 on redtop that they would work for the GT25R?
Sounds to me like the only different between the S15 turbo and the GT25R is you have to spend about 20 minutes grinding the motor mount bracket and the GT25R makes an extra 50-100hp.
-
AznRide
- Posts: 924
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 5:36 pm
- Car: Cars, hondas, import cars, girls, cars, girls, girls, and more beautiful girls.
I emailed one of the guys that sells it, i forgot who, maybe it was phase2motorsports. They do sell the Earl's ss braided lines and I'm pretty sure they can make one for the GT25R. Check out ATPTurbo.com. They have the cheapest GT25/40R I've seen so far, even cheaper than cheapturbo. Then get some braided lines, HKS Internal WG and i'm there, except for the grinding.
you should really look in your phonebook for hydraulic fittings or similar... you can bring them your turbo, and the banjo bolts from the hard lines, and say: i need ss lines that run from this fitting to this fitting with a right angle here and a straight fitting on this end... (think this through first... it will make you seem like you thought this through first-test fit and draw pics, or take notes) rather than buy a set of lines that will probably need to be modified anyway... you'll probably end up finding the hydraulic supply store to find a 5 dollar fitting to make your 150-200 $ lines work... when i spent 250, got lines for turbo, oil cooler, fuel lines, and all fittings for all.... add another 100 and you've got my earl's 25 row 12x8 oil cooler and i saved close to 600 dollars ..just give it a try, i bet the guys at the hydraulic store are cool.... you want aeroquip aluminum fittings (or similar) and ss lines... tell them your application, they've done it before, and know more than you would ever hope to about the hose subject.... don't be scared....
and to clear up the turbo stuff the new hksgt25r is the old hks 2540 with a larger intake diameter.... that is the only diff. between the old and the new... .84 tur/ .50 com there may be a garrett that is called the same ( i don't know), but the discussion (at least on my part) is the new hks gt25R (2540 with 70mm intake diameter and new name)
and to clear up the turbo stuff the new hksgt25r is the old hks 2540 with a larger intake diameter.... that is the only diff. between the old and the new... .84 tur/ .50 com there may be a garrett that is called the same ( i don't know), but the discussion (at least on my part) is the new hks gt25R (2540 with 70mm intake diameter and new name)
AznRide wrote:yea, the GT25R is like 750 bucks and it's pretty much a T28. The A/R is only .64 and smaller everything, I don't remember though. This throw me off when I found out the GT25/40R is the GT25R everyone is talking about...
Are you sure? Which brand are you talking about, the garrett or the hks? I know my garrett gt25r was like $900 at the time and that was a good deal. Anywhere else, they were like $1100. The garrett comes in .64 and .86 A/R.
How much do they want for that ss mani? Because remember, you get what you pay for. I bought a ss mani from ssautochrome(which are made by obx) and number 4 runner hits the block and the turbo flange is warped. Now i have a $300 paperweight. Plus that ss mani is eventually going to crack, then your going to have to buy another one or use ur stock one. and then get your wastegate welded again.
And what do you mean, what did I do to my oil and water lines? If you are referring to the pic, they aren't on yet.
And what do you mean, what did I do to my oil and water lines? If you are referring to the pic, they aren't on yet.