Yeah that doesn't really make sense. As far the rates go, those are surprsingly stiff. 75 Newtons/mm equates to 7.6kg/mm, and 44 equates to 4.5 kg/mm. For reference, Stock rates are around 2kg/mm f/r, and most coilovers are 8/6 f/r.PencilShavings wrote:after looking around for a bit, i found the first # is the spring length, second is the diameter, and 3rd is the spring rate..
GC180.64.44 is 180mm long, 64mm in dia and 44n/mm spring rate
now Im even more confused because my front springs are shorter then my rears, but according to the numbers my rears should be shorter then my front. also, why would my rear spring rates be more then my fronts? 44 vs 75? they seem completely backwards..
it would be 250 front and 425 rear...even more akward.nismofly wrote:but that would be a 425 front / 250 rear
This is exactly what I thought when I got the numbers, then I searched them on google and found differently..McRussellPants wrote:180 and 125 should be the spring rates, IIRC thats about right for a little stiffer than stock.
It looks like the 64 is the Inside Diameter, thats about what it should be in MM.
and the last numbers are the length. but the numbers don't make sense unless the springs are retarded short.
haha, yes. is that too much for yellows too?nismofly wrote:i *think* that comes out to 7.6 kg/mm front, and 4.5 kg/mm rear, after switching them obviously
thats waaayy too much for gr2's, so you need something else damper wise
7/4.5 is not that stiff. Im on 8/6 kts and loving it. As opposed to stock, the only time that I have less grip is on really bumpy stuff.gepeto wrote:With the stock valving ?
I would think it is border line, but should work for a while...then get them revalved..
That stiffness is closer to coilover land man, isn't it a bit too stiff for grip? You must jump every small crack in the road!
lol, I do! thats what I was saying in the other thread, its bad.gepeto wrote:That stiffness is closer to coilover land man, isn't it a bit too stiff for grip? You must jump every small crack in the road!
I guess I don't understand why I would need custom lenths. the GC sleeve overs say they drop the car from 0-2 inches. it looks like other springs used usually drop about 1.5 inches..naed240sx wrote:You need more than revalving. You need custom length shocks to match those springs, unless you want severly compromised travel. In the end, I really don't think it's worth it, but that's just my opinion.
Well that would be fine, as long as you aren't going any lower. From the few ground control setups I have seen, it looks like there is quite a bit of spring sagging going on, but they might have had a more custom setup.PencilShavings wrote:I guess I don't understand why I would need custom lenths. the GC sleeve overs say they drop the car from 0-2 inches. it looks like other springs used usually drop about 1.5 inches..
Pretty much. With any aftermarket replacement shocks, the shock length is usually the same as stock. So... If you lower your car 1 in, you lose 1 in of compression travel with the shock. If you go too low, you won't have enough travel, and will be constantly hitting the bumpstops unless you have a custom length damper. It's also bad when you have a non captive spring at full droop (The spring is not in contact with both perches when the wheel is off the ground). This means that for the last amount of rebound travel, the spring is having no effect on the assembly at all.IWannaS15 wrote:This explains a lot about the problems you mentioned earlier. I followed along with the rate conversions and it seems right to me.
Dean scared me with his last posts talking about custom length shocks. Thats only if youre doing super low ride height, right?.
Not out of the box. Unless they are valved accordingly anything over 300lbs/in would be pushing it.nismofly wrote:yellows can take up to 12.5 kg/mm