greddy type-s bov for real

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caliracer240
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SO i "T" it off from the nipple on my Hot pipe?? Not between the B/C and the W/G actuator?

AND IF I DO THIS.... should i loosen up the preload screw?


caliracer240
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Heres a pic of my current set up..... I drew a red line of where i think i should "T" it off from... please confirm if im right.

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Movingviolation240
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The problem with the lower nipple, is at higher boost levels (over 15psi) the valve will open and dump boost out, causing the thing to run pig rich and backfire. At least that's the problem I've had with it.

Paul

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compression
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the last post said that over 15psi, the valve will open and dump boost with the lower nipple hooked up.Just a comment.... I cannot see that happening, since the upper nipple is seeing 15psi also. Under high boost situations, there are 2 forces keeping the valve closed (boost into the upper nipple, and the spring) and only one force trying to open it(boost into the lower nipple) since the two boost forces essentially cancel each other out, all thats left is the spring holding it shut, and if it is not keeping it shut, then preload the spring some more.

How can you tell that it is opening? Just because it is running rich? do you have any other clues? what about blocking off the bov with an plate and run it like that and see if it still gets rich? That would definitely confirm if the bov is to blame.Never had a problem with my greddy type-r or type-s. Of course I'm cheating by not using a MAF sensor.....

240SXer
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When your BOV leaks under high boost it's the same feeling as when you have a leak in piping. It sux. I just want mine to not leak. I have it REALLY tight and it still isnt enough. I can only go a couple more coils in before I can't tighten at all.

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compression
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just ditch it for a few days then and make a smalll block-off-plate. It will not hurt your turbo. See if the problem goes away.Maybe your problem is from a choking MAF sensor? or something else.

In fact I have a friend that is running almost 30psi into his built H22 honda motor. He doesnt run a blowoff valve, neither does the head engineer of AEM who has a turbocharged acura NSX. BOV's are so "hyped" up that people think they are absolutely necessary, they spend more time picking out a BOV than selecting their turbo....just a rant, sorry.

Hope you get the problem solved, let us know what does it in the end.

240SXer
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I can't make a plate.. I know it's the bov because when I make it loser it'll do it at lower boost. If I make it tighter it does it at higher boost. But I wish I did have a plate thingie. I don't care that much about bovs, I just don't want to damage my turbo. I dont' care much about my T25 since i'm going to be replacing it soon, but I don't want it doing it with my GT25R too. But I DON'T want to buy a new Bov. where Can I get replacment springs?

caliracer240
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will someone please tell me if the picture i show with a red line is where the boost line is sposed to come from to go to the lower smaller nipple??

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Movingviolation240
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compression wrote:the last post said that over 15psi, the valve will open and dump boost with the lower nipple hooked up.Just a comment.... I cannot see that happening, since the upper nipple is seeing 15psi also. Under high boost situations, there are 2 forces keeping the valve closed (boost into the upper nipple, and the spring) and only one force trying to open it(boost into the lower nipple) since the two boost forces essentially cancel each other out, all thats left is the spring holding it shut, and if it is not keeping it shut, then preload the spring some more.


You are forgeting the actual valve part that's about 2 in. square. Now at 15psi that makes for 30lbs of force pushing against the spring, that and the pressure under the diaphram is what pushes it up.

Paul

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compression
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Yes the red line in the picture should work. THe beauty with BOV's is that you can just try stuff, there are no serious consequences if you hook something up wrong, and the hose&fittings are super cheap.

Good point in the last post about the pressure acting on the cylinder itself. In most cases the spring is more than enough to overcome that force.

240sx'r what psi are you running? DId i read that you are pushing that little turbo to 15psi? man, thats a lot for the stock S13 T25. The type s is probably too weak for you, especially if you are running that kind of boost. Try the type-r, thats what I am using and it is more stiff than the type-s (i tried both). Or you can hunt around for a new spring for it, dont know where though.... IF it is leaking at high boost, then definitely dont hook up the lower nipple, that is just one more force trying to open the valve whne you are boosted.

240sxer, you want me to make you a plate out of aluminum? I can ship it out on monday if you paypal me $10 if you want it. You have to email me at [email protected] because I wont be on this forum again till next week.

240SXer
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It leaks at even 13psi it leaks all the time. I've got it real tight, i guess i'll just make it tigheter..

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Movingviolation240
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Try using a longer bolt, that's what I finally had to do with my old Type S. For some reason my newer one hasn't required that yet though.

Strange.....

Paul

caliracer240
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It must be defective if its leaking at 13PSI... mine never leaks and i have spiked to 15 a few times on accident. I also run 14PSI when im out having fun or racing without any boost leaks. I never adjusted the BOV either... jus came with the enjuku hot pipe and BAM... it works.

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gtune4
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i adjusted mine and it works fine


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