Goodbye Transmission - it was fun while it lasted

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OwnerCS
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Last night I was driving on the interstate and I noticed a loud scraping noise coming from the transmission area. It sounded like I had run over something that had become entangled in the drive shaft -- but isolated to the transmission bell housing area.

It was late and I was in far enough from home to be concerned so I pulled over and shifted into neutral. The grinding continued. I opened the hood and found no evidence of anything being wrong -- good fluid level -- no leaks. I let it continue to idle and the noise eventually quietened. I continued to drive and noticed the shift from 2nd to 3rd was a bit crisper than normal. The noise completely disappeared as I continued to my destination.

Today on the way home the grinding returned about 10 miles from home. I pulled off the interstate on to an exit ramp. I shifted into neutral and the car continued forward like it was still in drive. I thought this must be some catastrophic failure in progress. The noise became louder and I could tell the transmission was seconds from a complete failure. As I approached a stop, the transmission finally locked up. Every gear (including neutral) was like the parking pawl was locked.. The flatbed two truck soon arrived to pull me out of the middle of an intersection.

Coincidentally, a couple of weeks ago, I was talking to Brian, my neighborhood Infiniti Master Tech, when he told me the transmission was the car's Achilles heel. I said I knew that and that I had installed a TCU from a 94 model to help. He said the 1st gear start would help extend the life of the transmission. He also mentioned that over the years he has seen several torque converters disintegrate and send shards of metal into the transmission that eventually get into the rear planetary gears. He said the transmission is finished when that happens. As soon as I heard the noise last night, I figured that grinding and crunching noise was the torque converter disintegrating.

So anyway, I need to think about this for a couple of days to decide if I want to go to the expense of replacing the transmission or to pull it it home and just part it out..

At first check today, the best price I see on a Nissan replacement transmission is $3,967.43

All opinions appreciated
Last edited by OwnerCS on Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:10 pm, edited 2 times in total.


qship96
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How many miles are on the car? Is this the original transmission,as most 1991 models transmissions broke and were replaced within the first 2-3 years of the cars life.
Geez, that sucks. no way I would spend $4K just on the part plus installation.....sadly,just too old of a car,and too many other expensive things left waiting to suck your wallet dry, and considering the cost of fuel, you could put that $ 4000+ immediate expense towards a new/newer vehicle and if you choose one that gets 2x the MPG....thats another $100-200 per month transferable ongoing savings to help offset the price of the new/newer vehicle.
Last edited by qship96 on Sun Sep 25, 2011 1:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Infinitiguy19
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If you need a Torque Converter I have one just pay the shipping $20 I think. But rebuilding the transmission is not very difficult according to the service manual. But when you get into the valve body "forget about it".

You could always come up here and buy this Q: 95-q45a-part-out-or-major-restoration-mass-t541165.html Use the rest for parts if the Transmission is good.

Is that the original transmission?

31020-51X09- ($3,782.90)
31020-51X15- ($2,947.33)
31020-51X21- ($3,553.22)
31020-51X63- ($3,123.32)
31020-52X09- ($3,123.32)
31020-51X65- ($3,967.42) Yours

OwnerCS
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It has 116,000 miles on it.. According to the service records, It was the original transmission.

Somehow a strange coincidence, the Stillen bar came from a good running Q that experienced a similar transmission failure. The owner donated it to charity (the crusher) and sold off the enhancement parts..

I had just started to enjoy the car after spending roughly a year taking care of everything..

My real daily driver is the 06 Ridgeline.. I found the Q was getting better MPG driving my suburban route and more fun to drive -- so I thought I would just drive it and enjoy it for some time..

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Lokim
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Sorry to hear that, Craig. I think if you have the means, put a transmission in it. You've spent so much time on the car to make it just the way you like it, and you only have 115K on the motor according to your info. That means you have at least another 100K to go on the motor, likely 200K+.

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Infinitiguy19
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I say build a heated garage if you don't have one already and keep the Q in there till you decide what to do with it. I wonder how much shipping is from Japan for a Automatic Transmission (A/T)?

Ask T3 if they still do business with Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) importers...

But I do hope when OIP opens Monday this is still available: 31020-51X15- ($2,947.33). Or hell call Jatco themselves and see if you can get one directly from them for cheaper... A nice guy (Jtibbs) on NICO live near there I think.

qship96
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I am shocked the 1991 model transmission lasted so long.....did you ever check to see if it had a pan drain plug or additional cooler/filter added? Most 1991 models got these as the dealer replaced original trannys that failed early on these model year, a dead giveaway. I had a few fiends who bought 1991 Q brand new, and all had transmission failures by 50,000 miles and 2-3 years after purchasing the cars.....needless to say, they did not buy another Infiniti when it was time to replace their current cars.

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Infinitiguy19
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So either the chain guides (engine) or Transmission go you by 100K...

But if the service history says its original then it has to be. UNLESS a non dealer shop changed the transmission under warranty but didn't report it to the service history?
Last edited by Infinitiguy19 on Sun Sep 25, 2011 1:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

OwnerCS
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The transmission did have a drain plug and it seems there was a small line cooler beside the pan. Does that indicate original transmission replacement?

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Infinitiguy19
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No that sounds like a replacement transmission.

How much are RE4R03A at the Pick and Pull?

How much does your Infiniti Tech charge per hour?

That might cost more in the end than the A/T from this guy: q45a-sway-bar-black-floormats-94-q45-tcu-t542632.html

How much does your guy want to install the A/T?

OwnerCS
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Transmissions at pick-n-pull are $139. Though there are no G50s at the moment.
There was a nice 94 model there in the spring that looked to have been well cared for that crashed into the read end of another car.. All fluids on that car were clean..That one could have been worth the hassle of trying to pull it myself..

The Infiniti Master Tech works for Sutherland Imports. They charge $85 per hour. For a shop that has quite a following of high end car owners, (e.g., BMW, Benz, Porsche/Audi, Jaguar, with some Aston Martin and Maserati thrown in), I've found their work to be extreme high quality at reasonable pricing. I like their website organization.. I would buy a car from them someday..

http://www.sutherland-imports.com/

::

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Infinitiguy19
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OwnerCS wrote: Somehow a strange coincidence, the Stillen bar came from a good running Q that experienced a similar transmission failure. The owner donated it to charity (the crusher) and sold off the enhancement parts..
OwnerCS wrote:
There was a nice 94 model there in the spring that looked to have been well cared for that crashed into the read end of another car.. All fluids on that car were clean..That one could have been worth the hassle of trying to pull it myself..
I wouldn't buy it...

Wes has a Level 10 A/T from his Q but he says it needs to be rebuilt... I would ask Level 10 how much they want, Plus the cost of freight both ways.

qship96
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OwnerCS wrote:The transmission did have a drain plug and it seems there was a small line cooler beside the pan. Does that indicate original transmission replacement?
Classic signs of Infiniti manufactureres procedure to dealerships when they replaced early Q transmission after failure while still under warranty.Many times the actual job title of "replace transmission" did not show up on service records, it was listed as a job or campaign number that Infiniti issued to deal with the common issue back then, and the campaign included a new transmission with pan that had a drain plug {original early Q left factory with no drain plug on pan},filter and add on cooler as you described.

OwnerCS
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qship96 wrote:
OwnerCS wrote:The transmission did have a drain plug and it seems there was a small line cooler beside the pan. Does that indicate original transmission replacement?
Classic signs of Infiniti manufactureres procedure to dealerships when they replaced early Q transmission after failure while still under warranty.Many times the actual job title of "replace transmission" did not show up on service records, it was listed as a job or campaign number that Infiniti issued to deal with the common issue back then, and the campaign included a new transmission with pan that had a drain plug {original early Q left factory with no drain plug on pan},filter and add on cooler as you described.
Ah ha! That explains it..

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Infinitiguy19
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qship96 wrote:...filter and add on cooler as you described.
Hate to sound like Maxnix but he means external filter (Not the one that sits above the transmission pan).

OwnerCS
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I'll check with Wes about the L10.

Though I'm not looking to drag race, solid dependability is the goal.

I think I remember Brian referencing some transmission rebuilders in AZ or TX.. Something about a re-builder in the DFW area..

I wonder if I would be better off with a 94 transmission since I already have a 94 TCU?

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paranoidjack
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transmission on this car is easy to replace with a lift.

Used transmission, parts and labor (if required) waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay under 1k and done. Or have a shop rebuild and install like new for 3k. Do not buy one from Nissan, that's crazy for a car of that value...crazy...think of a 4k investment for your children instead and toss the car!!! Sorry to hear about it, you keep such a clean machine.

maxnix
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Did you check with Joe?

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Q-ZILLA
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Sorry to hear about your transmission. For what it's worth... After my original transmission went, I tried to "get by" with used transmission's, yes 2 used trannys. After the second used transmission blew, I decided to get a Level 10, Stage 3; haven't had an issue in the past 76k miles.

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Infinitiguy19
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What did that cost if you don't mind me asking?

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Q451990
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Damn! :(

When this happens to me I'd be mighty tempted to do the 5 speed swap. Of course I'd never get around to it and have a dead Q in my garage for 20 years...

Did you ever get the suspected head gasket issue fixed? I don't remember reading about it, but I could have missed it.

Heath

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Q-ZILLA
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Infinitiguy19 wrote:What did that cost if you don't mind me asking?
4600 or thereabouts, including install as I recall. I only got around 20k miles on each used transmission, so it just seemed like the next logical step. Got tired of the hassle of it all. I've had this one for 5+ years.

Just took out a Mustang GT on my way to Taco Bell for lunch... ***hole called me an oldman, making remarks about my Q. At the light, after I passed by him, I asked him how it felt to get b****-slapped by an old man in a 4door... LOL

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elwesso
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Yeah I still have my level 10. Call me, Craig. I'll give you a deal.

I believe level 10 quoted me 2000 to rehab the transmission I had assumig the hard parts were good. It shifted OK for a transmission with 120k.

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Q451990
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johnwhitmire64 wrote:Just took out a Mustang GT on my way to Taco Bell for lunch... ***hole called me an oldman, making remarks about my Q. At the light, after I passed by him, I asked him how it felt to get b****-slapped by an old man in a 4door... LOL


Love it!

:rotfl :rotflmao :rotfl

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Infinitiguy19
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johnwhitmire64 wrote:
Infinitiguy19 wrote:What did that cost if you don't mind me asking?
4600 or thereabouts, including install as I recall. I only got around 20k miles on each used transmission, so it just seemed like the next logical step. Got tired of the hassle of it all. I've had this one for 5+ years.

Just took out a Mustang GT on my way to Taco Bell for lunch... ***hole called me an oldman, making remarks about my Q. At the light, after I passed by him, I asked him how it felt to get b****-slapped by an old man in a 4door... LOL
Well If I was to spend $3K just for the OEM A/T or go with the best A/T available I would go the latter route. I assume you drive the 400 HP beast like you stole it and it has held up for this long!

Does it shift as smooth as OEM though? Because that might be the nail in the $4.6K coffin for me.

OwnerCS
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Q451990 wrote:Damn! :(

When this happens to me I'd be mighty tempted to do the 5 speed swap. Of course I'd never get around to it and have a dead Q in my garage for 20 years...

Did you ever get the suspected head gasket issue fixed? I don't remember reading about it, but I could have missed it.

Heath
No issue after all.. It was apparently some moisture that built up in the mufflers after some short interval runs during the winter. The whole noise issue turned out to be caused by left side chain tensioner being clogged by some RTV fragment. At low RPM the tensioner allowed chain slack to slap the underside of the upper head guide to make noise. Now I understand the purpose of the upper head mounted guide -- that is to make noise when the chain gets too much slack as to send a warning..

The engine really runs as good as it looks..
Last edited by OwnerCS on Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Q-ZILLA
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OwnerCS wrote: No issue after all.. It was apparently some moisture that built up in the mufflers after some short interval runs during the winter. The whole noise issue turned out to be caused by left side chain tensioner being clogged by some RTV fragment. At low RPM the tensioner allowed chain slack to slap the underside of the upper head guide to make noise. Now I understand the purpose of the upper head mounted guide -- that is to make noise when the chain gets too much slack as so send a warning..

The engine really runs as good as it looks..
Nice, sounds like you dodged a bullet... At least for now. These cars amaze me...

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Infinitiguy19
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johnwhitmire64 wrote:
OwnerCS wrote: No issue after all.. It was apparently some moisture that built up in the mufflers after some short interval runs during the winter. The whole noise issue turned out to be caused by left side chain tensioner being clogged by some RTV fragment. At low RPM the tensioner allowed chain slack to slap the underside of the upper head guide to make noise. Now I understand the purpose of the upper head mounted guide -- that is to make noise when the chain gets too much slack as so send a warning..

The engine really runs as good as it looks..
Nice, sounds like you dodged a bullet... At least for now. These cars amaze me...
That was before the A/T failed so now the bullet finally hit him.

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Q-ZILLA
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Location: Cape Coral, FL
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Infinitiguy19 wrote: Well If I was to spend $3K just for the OEM A/T or go with the best A/T available I would go the latter route. I assume you drive the 400 HP beast like you stole it and it has held up for this long!

Does it shift as smooth as OEM though? Because that might be the nail in the $4.6K coffin for me.

No, I don't necessarily baby My Baby all the time, but I just love the car and like to romp on her... Not to mention putting young punks like the kid today that called me "old man" and was making derogatory comments about My Baby in thier place. Anyone can have a sweet Mustang... Dime a dozen.

The Stage 3 L10 snaps. You most definately feel the shifts; I like it! OEM is sooo smooth compared to the L10, I think Wes would agree. Knowing the transmission is pretty much the weakest link in this car helped me to go with the L10; plus I noticed a few members had them. They say "Bulletproof"; I intend to hold them to it! You can also go with the Stage 1 or 2 instead...

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Q-ZILLA
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R.S. Enthalpy Tuned on
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Location: Cape Coral, FL
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johnwhitmire64 wrote:
OwnerCS wrote: No issue after all.. It was apparently some moisture that built up in the mufflers after some short interval runs during the winter. The whole noise issue turned out to be caused by left side chain tensioner being clogged by some RTV fragment. At low RPM the tensioner allowed chain slack to slap the underside of the upper head guide to make noise. Now I understand the purpose of the upper head mounted guide -- that is to make noise when the chain gets too much slack as so send a warning..

The engine really runs as good as it looks..
Nice, sounds like you dodged a bullet... At least for now. These cars amaze me...
I'm confused... He did lose his transmission?


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