Good Location For A Dedicated BOV Vacumm Line????

[side waz]

Hey guys.

Ok currently I'm using one of the little hard vacumm lines under my throttle body with a T fitting and I run my bov and boost gauge from that. Now my bov opens but it does'nt make that nice high pitch sound when the air is released even when it's set to the lightest setting. It only sounds the way I want when I let off the gas and the rpms come down then I hear it. I only hear my wastegate.

I have a GReddy Type S and I know on a guys ca18 it blows off with a nice high pitch. Now I fully understand that all engines are different but it should still sound roughly the same on my motor.

Now my turbo will need replacing soon as the seals are going so it's not making or holding boost like it should but even before this happened the bov never sounded like I want.

I heard that maybe the current location I chose is why and that a better location with a vacumm line only for bov. If this is true and the location does'nt have the power to open the bov properly thats probabley why it's not sounding right.

Anyway I figure it's worth a try so I was wondering if anyone here can suggest another spot to attach the vacumm line to on my 94 kade? As well my bov is on my hot pipe.

Thanks so much guys and take care.

Easy

[mallbor240SR]

so what sound did it make then? did you get compressor surge?i also have the type s bov. and i had it connected to my brake booster line, i loved the sound but i dont think thats the sound youre looking for, it was like a whosshhhhhh but youre probably looking for a hks sequential high pitch sound right? thats the sound im getting now that i switched the vacumm source to my throttle body but i dont like it because the bov leaks too much. so im going back to using the brake booster

[mallbor240SR]

oh and just in case you want to hear how the greddy type s sounds when connected to the brake booster, i have a small video clip, ill send it to your email if you want.

[side waz]

I appreciate your help here.

Well it's not so much a whoooooosh but thats almost right and it's only after that sound when the motor is almost back at idle that for a bit I hear a little whine. As for compressor surge, I've heard it a little yeah. Do you think it's b/c my bov is to tight?

As for the location on the t/b where exactly is it hooked? I'd like to know if it's different then mine.

Sure you can email that clip to me. I doubt I'd use a location that will give that whoooosh sound but I'd like to hear it. I know the type s makes the high pitch sound b/c it was on a friends car and when it went off, it was the sound I like. Thats the reason I bought it. You can send the clip to [email protected]

Thanks again for your help.

[mallbor240SR]

i always hear that little whine sound with my bov, thats the bov leaking at idle.i like the brake booster line better because the whine disapears when the bov connected to that sourcei have an SR and i dont remember how many vacumm sources the ka has at the throttle body but im using the smaller vacumm source at the top of the TB, i also used the big vacumm source used with the carbon canister and it didnt make any difference to me,im pretty sure that the bov will make the same sound when connected to the brake booster, with the SR or KA.ill send you the clip in a few minutes

[side waz]

Huh, so if it's leaking I guess I should tighten it then right?

Thing is I want to make sure the location is strong enough to open bov properly as I do NOT want compressor surge, especially when I get my new turbo on.

As I said my location is under the t/b.

I look forward to hearing that vid.

[mallbor240SR]

so youre using the source at the bottom of the TB? do you have boost in that line?? i dont have any boost on my bottom source, i read that's normalon sr20s thats why i dont use that source for my bov. i think it wouldnt close all the way and leak even more.

[Jookmasta]

um the fpr is the best source for ur vac for the bov. u said ur using a type s u say? well i had to take out one of the springs inside of it for it to operate properly. whats ur vac reading at on ur boost gauge?

[side waz]

um the fpr is the best source for ur vac for the bov. u said ur using a type s u say? well i had to take out one of the springs inside of it for it to operate properly. whats ur vac reading at on ur boost gauge?

Where exactly? Are you talking the spot at the back of the motor?

Yes I'm using the Type S.

As for the my vac reading, where at idle? If so I think it's around -20 on my gauge.

[mallbor240SR]

did you get the video?

[Jookmasta]

on the back of the fuel rail, u'll see a round thing the size of a door knob in circumference. just tap off that line and run that to ur bov. if ur hearing compressor surge, i suggest opening up the type s and removing the tougher spring within it. see if that helps as with my type s, i had to do that or else i would hear the compressor surge due to the bov not opening.........

[side waz]

did you get the video?

Yep I got it and emailed you back saying thanks. See yours at least has a little ptich mixed with the whoosh sound which beats the pretty much nothing I have currently. LOL

on the back of the fuel rail, u'll see a round thing the size of a door knob in circumference. just tap off that line and run that to ur bov. if ur hearing compressor surge, i suggest opening up the type s and removing the tougher spring within it. see if that helps as with my type s, i had to do that or else i would hear the compressor surge due to the bov not opening.........

Yeah the spot your talking about is near where the stock fpr is located and that is where I thought about trying. Either there or off the charcoal filter. Currently I am using that spot for the line to my Megan Racing fpr, does that matter at all?

With the bov, I don't have any other springs to replace the one I take out, or does that not matter? I set it really lose today, comp surge went way down but returning to idle is now an issue. Stalled out a couple of times and seems to want to stall out all the time. So I will either have to tighten it up, and go back to some comp surge, or set the decel function on my SAFC.

[mallbor240SR]

are you recirculating your bov?

[side waz]

No it's atmospheric.

I was wondering about this spring thing inside the bov. Does anyone here have an exploded view of the Type S apart that shows these springs or can anyone here draw exactly what needs to be removed, changed or done?

I'd like an idea of whats up before I do exploritory surgery.

[S14tat]

theres two springs inside the type S. the the heavier spring is the outter spring, and the softer spring is the spring that sits inside the diameter of the larger spring. just take out the outter heavier spring and you should be good.

[Jookmasta]

i wish i was back home to take pics of it but when u do remove the tougher spring, u dont replace it with anything. ill try to explain it as best i can.

use a 2.5mm allen wrench key thing and undo the 7 hex screws from the bov (i think its seven of em). then the bov should come apart and u will see two springs. the tougher spring should be the outermost one and will appear to be thicker. the weaker spring should be in the middle and will appear to be thinner. u can test the tension of the springs by just squeezing on em to find out which one is stiffer. then remove the tougher spring and seal up back the bov.

now mind u that since u removed the tougher spring, u will need to tighten down the adjustment as u could produce a leaky bov condition if left too loose. u WILL have to set ur decel settings as u will be "blowing off" everywhere and of course ur gonna need something to control the consequences of the rich condition that ur presenting to ur setup. i think anthony (structure240sx) had the best write up for how to set the decel settings. run a search on that.

now to troubleshoot just in case this doesnt work for u, should the worst happen and even though u tightened down the bov to the limit and the bov is still leaking, replace the weaker spring with the tougher spring so that only the tougher spring is inside the bov........then reassemble the bov and try that out.

report back with results and let us know how it goes. if all goes well, u should be hearing a high pitched squeal or the sound of a donkey being flogged to death whenever the bov opens. (this sound applies to around town driving). should u be up in the rpm range and shifting, it should sound like a woosh of air with a faint hint of donkey death.........hope this helps

[side waz]

^^^^

Brother THANK YOU so much. Thats a perfect description and I was pretty sure I knew what you ment but just wanted it clerified.

I'll try and get to the bov tomorrow but if not, Wed for sure.

As for the search, I'll look for it but for some reason I don't do to well when it comes to using the search function.

Anyway I'll let you guys know and hopefully I'll have the high pitch or I'll be killin the donkey myself and go with the HKS SSQ.

I appreciate all the help fella's thanks again.

Take care.

Easy

[side waz]

Ok I could'nt find structure's write up but I did find this by kuramaya. It's the 14th reply down in this thread zerothread?id=128668

Is it correct???

[S14tat]

wow his description is very long. hahah

this is what you do in laymens term.

the ne1 and ne2 is the air flow percent you put down.

ne1 would be the first point on your lo- hi throttle map rpm.

ne2 would be the second point on your lo-hi throttle map rpm.

the throttle number on the decel air would be throttle percent its required to rev it to the ne2 rpm.

and then your done.

and if your really unfamiliar with the safc you get the air flow percentage numbers in the monitor mode. make it display air flow and throttle and rpm.

[side waz]

Ok I'm totally getting this but I just have a couple of questions.

Currently I'm not using the decel function at all and I've turned my idle up from the motor, via the adjustment screw on the passenger side near the back of the engine. Right now the normal idle is around 900-950ish. So here's my questions.

1. After the engine is at optimum temperature should I adjust the idle back to the stock 750ish rpm's?

Now when I start the motor on a cold start I read somewhere that I'm supposed to write down the rpm number. From memory I know it's around 1200ish rpms.

2. Should I ignor what I've read and just do what both you guys are saying?

I really hope this solves the bov problem I'm having and gets rid of the compressor surge since I can have the bov loser and get the sound I'm hoping for.

[S14tat]

when its cold at 1200rpm that would be the air flow you write down for like the ne1 and then you rev the engine to reach the rpm for ne2 then you write down that air flow percent and the throttle percentage it takes to reach that rpm. leave the revs alittle high like 800-850 rpm when the engine i warm. also beware that with the decel air on with 370cc injectors, the car when cold will run lean and the idle will bounce. when it warms up it will run smooth.

[side waz]

Thanks for clearing that up for me brother. I only have one more fave to ask. Do you think you could email the details on your Sentra fan conversion? Upgrading the cooling is one of the things on my "to do" list. When ever you get around to it though, there's no rush.

The email address is [email protected]

You helped out a whole lot man, I won't forget it.

[chad_KAT]

is it like BAAAWWWWAAAAA WOOOOSHHHHPFFF or like BWWAAAAAWWWAAAA PPPPPPPFFFFFWOOSH or likr BAAAWWWWAAAA PFF! let me know i can help if you can answer this qestion.

[S14tat]

there is a better write up on electric fan conversion a few pages back. the way i did it is not the most ideal way, but it works for me so thats why i never bothered to change it.

heres a link to the thread

zerothread?id=143494

[Jookmasta]

um as my final favor to you sidewaz (j/k) here is the definitive link to setting your safc decel settings......i recommend bookmarking it so u can read it over and so u can help out a fellow open bov person...

http://forums.freshalloy.com/u...73668

[side waz]

i wish i was back home to take pics of it but when u do remove the tougher spring, u dont replace it with anything. ill try to explain it as best i can.

use a 2.5mm allen wrench key thing and undo the 7 hex screws from the bov (i think its seven of em). then the bov should come apart and u will see two springs. the tougher spring should be the outermost one and will appear to be thicker. the weaker spring should be in the middle and will appear to be thinner. u can test the tension of the springs by just squeezing on em to find out which one is stiffer. then remove the tougher spring and seal up back the bov.

now mind u that since u removed the tougher spring, u will need to tighten down the adjustment as u could produce a leaky bov condition if left too loose. u WILL have to set ur decel settings as u will be "blowing off" everywhere and of course ur gonna need something to control the consequences of the rich condition that ur presenting to ur setup. i think anthony (structure240sx) had the best write up for how to set the decel settings. run a search on that.

now to troubleshoot just in case this doesnt work for u, should the worst happen and even though u tightened down the bov to the limit and the bov is still leaking, replace the weaker spring with the tougher spring so that only the tougher spring is inside the bov........then reassemble the bov and try that out.

report back with results and let us know how it goes. if all goes well, u should be hearing a high pitched squeal or the sound of a donkey being flogged to death whenever the bov opens. (this sound applies to around town driving). should u be up in the rpm range and shifting, it should sound like a woosh of air with a faint hint of donkey death.........hope this helps

Hey Jookmasta I did it.

As it turned out though I needed the stronger spring instead of the weaker one. I'm hearing the bov now (still not the pitch I want but..eh) rather then compressor surge.

There's only a very small amout of surge and it's only for a brief second or two but you can hear the bov more and more air seems to be getting out.

My turbo is dying though so again, that's probabley a factor as to why I'm still hearing surge as the bov is lose and I feel no air being sucked in while at idle. I think it could be tighter but since my turbo is'nt holding boost anymore that well I will keep the bov the way it is now untill I install my new turbo.

Anyway thanks so much to you and everyone else for the assistance with this issue. I most likely will change the vacumm line location for the bov but again, I'll install my new first.

Take care everyone.

Easy