goddamn nuts

[240_of_pa]

has any else found it impossible to remove the nuts so that they can install some strut bars on their car? i have already ruined one socket wrench and one closed wrench trying to ply these farckin things off. now i am going to have to pay some creep at a shop like $50.00 b/c i can't do it:mad:

[AZhitman]

Invest in a compressor and a impact wrench (and some spray).

[240_of_pa]

right.thanks

[96_S14_SE]

Silviagirl has, there was a post about it hehe.

I dont really see why they are on that tight, torque specs iirc is 47 ft/lbs and I put mine on much tighter then that.. Some pb-blaster the day before and at the time of removal will help.

Also a 14mm 1/2 drive ratchet and a bar on the end / or a breaker bar will also help get you the leverage you need to gain more torque.

[yeswepromise]

i got mine off with no problem.

[AZhitman]

i have already ruined one socket wrench and one closed wrench trying to ply these farckin things off.

Cheap wrenches.

[240_of_pa]

craftsman...i bought some vice grips today and i will try again tomorrow morning, if not then i will just pay the creep to do it b/c i am impatient

[240_of_pa]

oh the vice grips are some cheap crap though so i am crossing my fingers.

[s14kaibigan]

Hey, before you take the vice grips to them, listen to 96_S14_SE and use some PB Blast on the nuts. That stuff works wonders.

[240_of_pa]

thanks, i'll buy it prob. tonight.

[240_of_pa]

do i buy the "penetrating catalyst?"

[s14kaibigan]

Yep, that is it. I usually use it on frozen tie rod nuts...but if that doesn't work, OUT COMES THE TORCH! (One of my favorite tools)

[240_of_pa]

lol, i think ill stick with the pb. why doesn't anybody have it? i have to order it online for crying out loud!!!

[96_S14_SE]

Discount or autozone should have it man. I cant remember exactly where I picked it up, but its pretty common.

The valvoline pentrant is pretty decent as well. I dont like the smell of it though. It smells even worse when it burns off.

Pb doesnt smell funky and works great for me, so I use it.

[EZcheese15]

Yep, that is it. I usually use it on frozen tie rod nuts...but if that doesn't work, OUT COMES THE TORCH! (One of my favorite tools)

Man, if PB doesn't get them off, a torch won't either If PB won't break them loose, I recommend burning the car and getting a new one.

On second thought, I've never seen anything that PB won't break free. Well, there was some exhaust bolts once on an eclipse I was working on....we ended up cutting it off with an acetyline torch....so I guess on rare occasions, you do need a torch.

[240_of_pa]

right right

[daniel240]

use a breaker bar, and if that dont work attach a pipe to the end for more leverage

[AZhitman]

don't use vise grips on them - you want as much surface area as possible on the nut faces.

A socket (14mm?) with a breaker bar and some penetrating lube is the RIGHT way. Pay somebody to do it and you'll never be able to show your face around here again.

[240_of_pa]

good point. it is embarrasing just admitting that i would pay someone for a job like this:oface

[lessthanjakejohn]

Go to sears, buy a nice rachet socket wrench (so when you break it you can get a new one). Then go to some deserted place with a chain link fence about 4.5ft high. Take the bar(pipe) that connects the two posts and holds the chain links up. Then apply the wrench to the bolts after using pb blaster. Take bar and slip over end of wrench. PULL.

[AZhitman]

or you could just BUY A BREAKER BAR.

Use a jack handle - Works just as well and you don't have to vandalize some poor basturd's fence.

[EZcheese15]

or you could just BUY A BREAKER BAR.

Use a jack handle - Works just as well and you don't have to vandalize some poor basturd's fence.

We were taking the propeller off of my friend's Yamaha GP1200R once, and we had to buy an 8' steel pipe. It was about 2 1/2" diameter, and it took a person hanging on the end of it to snap it loose. Funny thing was, the torque specs acording to the FSM were like 17 ft-lbs. I guess it torques itself on with hours of use.

[240_of_pa]

jesus christ!!! that's ridiculous!!! i guess i'll buy a breaker bar and a long *** pipe or some crap. it probably won't happen until saturday though, busy:mad: but what about the damn rear towers, those are hard as hell too! why am i forsaken? sorry about the foul language, i'm just mad as all hell that this is so difficult. thanks for you guys help though

[s14kaibigan]

Heh...if you think this is hard, then wait til you get to do some engine work...ie replace timing chain, head gaskets, block work...I'd love to see your choice words then....then again, mine aren't so great either, DOH!

[daniel240]

you shouldnt need to use the pipe with a breaker bar, just try the bar 1st.

[EZcheese15]

Yeah man, we're talking 14mm bolts. That propeller was like a 22mm....

If you put the force we did on a 14mm bolt you'll shear it right off.

[96_S14_SE]

WHAT??? damn man the rear is a 12mm. I think you need to get off the comp and do some physical labor...

With a 3/8 drive and a 12mm one should have no problem. These bolts are nothing, and I would say dont attempt at removing anything like a caliper bolt or any suspension bolts, these are aged on nice and tight, unlike the covered strut tower bolts...

Dont mean to be an a**, but man hehe. I suppose you could bust out the rubber mallet then hammers in incremental sizes.

You might like to invest in a compressor and 1/2" and 3/8" impacts, I think that was stated previously.

Im not a big man at 5'11 140lbs but Ive only had one bolt beat me, and it was due to lack of tools and stupidity. It was a very torqued on caliper bolt on my gfs 240. I ended up not bringning a breaker bar nor a hammer and attempted to pull it off with a 3/8" drive ratchet only. It beat me bad though and tore up my neck muscles pretty bad, laying me out for a week - 10 days, immobilized.

I got my front spindle bolts off by hand even though they where 1/2" impacted on to 285 ft/lbs +.... I say plus because the rental torque wrench was a 1/2" and I was using an adapter to 3/8" and I wanted to see how tight they where on after fighting it for a bit over an hour... for one. I kept incrementing the torque on the wrench and got to 285 ft/lbs when the adapter sheared clean off.... I did manage to get all 4 of the bastards off by hand with a pipe a ratchet and some pb (it took busting 2 x 3/8" drives a wrench on both ends and the adapter to do so). Modifying the struts for the koni inserts was a breeze after that.... It was almost like taking a break.

Put some a** into it

[DAEDALUS]

Just one more suggestion...see if Sears has a pipe bender handle. I found one at the local Sears for $14 and it's perfect for removing 270 ft-lb crankshaft bolts. 4-foot long painted steel pipe with a rubber handle, and it fits over my Craftsman breaker bar with very little slop. Mechanical advantage--do the same work with a fraction of the effort. In addition to applying a penetrant, tap the nuts with a metal hammer too. They're partially being held on by the friction between the nuts and the frame...the shock will help break the seat. If all the "locking" force was coming from the stud, it would yield at around 15 ft-lbs and you would then have to rebuild the struts.After you get the nuts off you should probably replace them with new ones.

[big jon's 240]

Go to the gym!

[AZhitman]

Put some a** into it

LOL - Yeah!!!