Ghost Alarms - Help Me Find A Solution (Solved: Passenger Side Hood Latch Mechanism)

[emm3seven]

I'm 99% sure that the harness pigtail hanging off of the passenger side hood latch is there to feed the integrated hood open/close switch, yeah. I've had the entire hood latch system pulled apart and there's really no other components that could provide that function. It's also pretty close to the IPDM which is centered under the top front engine cover/air intake.

I'll confess, though, that I haven't been able to prove this hypothesis via the FSM documentation. There's nothing I can find that shows the actual location of the switch. But this ghost alarm problem also looks like it hits the G37, for example this post on Reddit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/G37/comments/w ... going_off/

...and that post also says the hood switch for the alarm is in the passenger side hood latch.

It should be 10 minutes of work to confirm, though:
- Turn ignition on, hook up the Foxwell and go into the menu that lets you monitor hood switch state in realtime
- Pull the hood release inside the car, hood pops open, hood switch state should be open
- Fully open the hood, take a screwdriver or other tool and press it down into the passenger side hood latch mechanism to close it
- Hood switch state should now show closed even though hood is open
- Make sure you pop the hood release to re-open the latch when you're done, you may need the screwdriver again to get it to open since you won't have the spring on the hood to pull it open

I believe the right part number is 65601-1MA0A. There's some confusing part pictures and data online that make it look like that part number is for an entire set, but IPD confirmed in the comments on this page that it's the passenger side latch only:

https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/parts ... 1ma0a.html

There's plenty available on eBay as well for a bit cheaper.

Good luck, sounds like you're probably on the right path...

[Ilya]

This is definitely starting to make more sense.

I've had issues with the passenger side for years. Meaning, when I close the hood, the passenger side doesn't always 'lock' and I have to push on just that corner 2-3 times sometimes (not always) to get it to lock in. I always thought that hood lock was purely mechanical, so I usually lube both hood locks and the center one with a spray, etc. to keep them 'loose' (the springs) and willing to 'accept' the hood. Maybe I damaged the switch by spraying down there? I also tried to adjust (spin) that little rubber thing on the hood which I guess acts as a 'distance' buffer from the hood and car.

I'll do the test later today, but because my issue is sporadic and because this part is less than $100...I'm likely just going to replace it considering I've had the above issues for years with specifically that side.

EDIT: I got it from Harper Infiniti for $76 shipped (about $7 cheaper than Infiniti Parts Deal). Will be here 24-26th and then hopefully I can finally put this issue to rest once and for all. I'll avoid spraying anything in there again and if I need to, I'll be removing the unit and covering the switch plug.

[emm3seven]

Sounds like a plan!

I can't resist some unsolicited advice since I just did a bunch of work in this area...so here goes.

Getting to the latch is pretty simple, just remove the front engine cover / air intake that sits over the radiator, then unplug the passenger side MAF sensor, loosen the worm clamp, and remove the passenger air box.

Once you're in the area, before you loosen any bolts, identify the heavy rectangular metal plate with six bolts that sits on top of the hood latch. The latch you're replacing is bolted to the underside of this plate via the two middle bolts.

Thoroughly clean the top of this plate around the middle bolts, and use a fine-tipped white grease pencil (or something else that doesn't rub off super easily) and draw outlines around those two bolt heads. They have a bit of adjustment (being a hood latch) and it's kind of a PITA to readjust them. If you draw outlines around where they went, it's easy to get it realigned when you put it back.

You may be tempted to pull that big plate, but I found that the front outer bolt is pinned in place by the front bodywork for some dumb reason. So don't pull the plate...instead, unbolt the latch and fish it out the engine side. If you carefully detach the two white clips holding the passenger side hood latch cable to the body, you can unbolt the two small bolts holding the latch to the plate and have plenty of slack to slip the whole thing out. Then you can actually see what you're doing and shift the release cable over to the new part. The small wiring harness connector will have a similar need for patience and maybe a plastic pick.

[Ilya]

Sounds like a plan!

I can't resist some unsolicited advice since I just did a bunch of work in this area...so here goes.

Getting to the latch is pretty simple, just remove the front engine cover / air intake that sits over the radiator, then unplug the passenger side MAF sensor, loosen the worm clamp, and remove the passenger air box.

Once you're in the area, before you loosen any bolts, identify the heavy rectangular metal plate with six bolts that sits on top of the hood latch. The latch you're replacing is bolted to the underside of this plate via the two middle bolts.

Thoroughly clean the top of this plate around the middle bolts, and use a fine-tipped white grease pencil (or something else that doesn't rub off super easily) and draw outlines around those two bolt heads. They have a bit of adjustment (being a hood latch) and it's kind of a PITA to readjust them. If you draw outlines around where they went, it's easy to get it realigned when you put it back.

You may be tempted to pull that big plate, but I found that the front outer bolt is pinned in place by the front bodywork for some dumb reason. So don't pull the plate...instead, unbolt the latch and fish it out the engine side. If you carefully detach the two white clips holding the passenger side hood latch cable to the body, you can unbolt the two small bolts holding the latch to the plate and have plenty of slack to slip the whole thing out. Then you can actually see what you're doing and shift the release cable over to the new part. The small wiring harness connector will have a similar need for patience and maybe a plastic pick.

Unsolicited advise welcome! hah

[Q70sGuy]

Good on finding that. Before you change it - or even before you actually pay for the new switch - you can unplug the hood switch right now. Remove it is not difficult although I recall your car is quite rusty in some places so don’t hesitate with some penetrating fluid spray. In fact, if that’s solves your problem, don’t even bother with a new switch. Leave it unplugged as It’s a relatively pointless feature and save your 70$

Anyway, unplug the harness to the hood switch and see if the alarm still goes off after a few days. The switch is naturally closed signal, so when you unplug it, the computer should believe it to be closed - unless there’s a short in the wiring somewhere. If that’s the case this becomes much more complicated.

Good luck !
Mine said it was one of my door switches. I just turned off the alarm system, who cares anyway.

[Ilya]

Good on finding that. Before you change it - or even before you actually pay for the new switch - you can unplug the hood switch right now. Remove it is not difficult although I recall your car is quite rusty in some places so don’t hesitate with some penetrating fluid spray. In fact, if that’s solves your problem, don’t even bother with a new switch. Leave it unplugged as It’s a relatively pointless feature and save your 70$

Anyway, unplug the harness to the hood switch and see if the alarm still goes off after a few days. The switch is naturally closed signal, so when you unplug it, the computer should believe it to be closed - unless there’s a short in the wiring somewhere. If that’s the case this becomes much more complicated.

Good luck !
Mine said it was one of my door switches. I just turned off the alarm system, who cares anyway.

Turning off the alarm via the NT710 is definitely nice. Car has been locked each night and hasn't been a problem. I'm not so much concerned at home since I live in the sticks but it went off twice on me while getting dinner a few weeks back before receiving the NT710 and that's quite embarrassing lol. Even if the new switch doesn't fix it, I'm still ahead.

That being said, I've been trying to 'restore' my car a bit and only replacing stuff with OEM parts. It's approaching 150kmi but still runs REALLY strong. I'd like to keep it for a number of more years so I'd rather do it right and have it as close to OEM as opposed to having to 'hack' stuff by unplugging things, etc...if that makes sense. The only non-OEM parts are going to be things like brakes and such...but for everything else I'm trying to replace like with like (finally replaced the rusted to hell 'batwing' or 'crossmember' a couple months back).

So far it has received:

- New crossmember
- Had driver side mirror motor replaced/fixed (mirror was lose and lost power ability)
- Replaced driver side door panel with a better condition one
- Installed paddle shifters
- Full inside/out detail and deep clean of buttons, etc. (my rear seats look like they've never been sat in hahaha)

The only 'hack' I've done is the epoxy filling in the rear subframe bushing cause that is way too much work for me to replace in my garage and it's not serious enough to pay someone, yet.

[Ilya]

New part has arrived but won't be installed till sometime in mid-August as I'm about to depart on a 3 week vacation, etc. However, the NT710 has already 'solved' my issue because I've disabled the alarm completely via the configuration. Haven't been bothered since...so this will just be a nice cherry on top.

[anewstartinchrist]

Definitely curious to know the outcome of this issue. And I hope it will be resolved. Have a great vacation

[Ilya]

Alright team, back from Europe and finally replaced the hood latch. Very simple swap. 6 bolts and one clip, took like 5 minutes. Re-enabled the alarm via the Foxwell and lets see what happens!

[Ilya]

So far so good...no alarms! Car hasn't been sitting on a tender (which now explains why it doesn't go off with the tender as the hood is not fully closed in order to not crush the tender wire).

[Q70sGuy]

Good stuff. The foxwell can tell you which switch triggered the alarm if it happens again

[Ilya]

Yep, that's how I found it was the hood switch last time.

Still no alarms. I think its time to call it - fix is in!