gf wants wheels i don't know right offset need help

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adrianfromthecastle
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Nacho_240 wrote:Referring to height and gap of your car:

If you get the 18's it will decrease the fender gap, but it will also lift the car...making that 1" dropped 240 look like stock again. Not to mention the extra $$ you're gonna hav to drop.
no it won't. I already stated it earlier with Chubbs

Ive done 15's, 16's, and now my current 17's... yet I've kept the same stance and ride height throughout all sizes... and if I wanted to get some 18s (which I really want to do), I can guaranty that it'll still be the same stance.

Like I said, as you go through different wheel sizes, your tire side wall has to compensate to keep a constant final gear ratio, otherwise you'll be effin up your mileage along with other stuff. Wheel weight may change, but the height from top to bottom of the tire should always be the same, regardless of what's in between the rubber.


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nismofly
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its all in the outer diameter of the tire

you basically take away an inch of sidewall for every inch of wheel you add, the OD stays the same, the fender gap stays the same

Nacho_240
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adrians_s13 wrote:Like I said, as you go through different wheel sizes, your tire side wall has to compensate to keep a constant final gear ratio, otherwise you'll be effin up your mileage along with other stuff. Wheel weight may change, but the height from top to bottom of the tire should always be the same, regardless of what's in between the rubber.
That's true. I actually had this problem when I bought my used set of rims and tires. The rims 17x7.5in but were wrapped in 235/40/17. Besides mileage and the odometer, what else does it affect?

got chub
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[QUOTE=adrians_s13]

Ive done 15's, 16's, and now my current 17's... yet I've kept the same stance and ride height throughout all sizes... and if I wanted to get some 18s (which I really want to do), I can guaranty that it'll still be the same stance.[QUOTE]

not entirely true. i just switched from 205/40/17 all around to 225/40/17 & 235/40/17 and my car is now about 1" higher. i hope you know that the series is the percentage of the width. now if you want to say i didn't post in the right place i gave the reason in the beginning if you read that. NOT MUCH TRAFFIC IN THE WHEEL SECTION!

now just so i don't have to hear any more BS from the "wheel mod". what i was trying to get is if any one knows any other wheels that have the same look with more options for sizing and offsets with out having to spend well over 1k. i know there isn't a whole lot to choose from but i figured one of you might know where or who makes some

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nismofly
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got_chub wrote:
adrians_s13 wrote:
Ive done 15's, 16's, and now my current 17's... yet I've kept the same stance and ride height throughout all sizes... and if I wanted to get some 18s (which I really want to do), I can guaranty that it'll still be the same stance.Quote »

not entirely true. i just switched from 205/40/17 all around to 225/40/17 & 235/40/17 and my car is now about 1" higher. i hope you know that the series is the percentage of the width. now if you want to say i didn't post in the right place i gave the reason in the beginning if you read that. NOT MUCH TRAFFIC IN THE WHEEL SECTION!

now just so i don't have to hear any more BS from the "wheel mod". what i was trying to get is if any one knows any other wheels that have the same look with more options for sizing and offsets with out having to spend well over 1k. i know there isn't a whole lot to choose from but i figured one of you might know where or who makes some
christ dude you think were retarded? i already said OD is how you maintain ride height, how do you keep the OD? why, you change your aspect ratio, imagine that

you say not true because you went from 205/40 to 225/40 and you went higher, but then tell us how aspect ratio works...well lets see, if you notice, you couldve adjusted your aspect ratio and kept the same ride height as you had before, so it IS always true, as long as you want it to be

as far as the wheels go, one last time, there isnt anything else, thats what were trying to convince you

if you want the black wheel with the red lip, under 1k, in decent 240 sizes, you have 2 options, the tenzos youve already seen, and sportmax 006, which she said she didnt like because of the spoke design...heres that anyway just in case

http://www.sportmaxwheel.com/sportmax_006.shtml#

why not buy black wheels in a size and design you like, sand the lip and paint the red...or have the lip powdercoated, or browse the used wheel sites...beggers cant be choosers, but thats what youre attempting here

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adrianfromthecastle
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got_chub wrote:not entirely true. i just switched from 205/40/17 all around to 225/40/17 & 235/40/17 and my car is now about 1" higher. i hope you know that the series is the percentage of the width.
um... ok? That didn't disprove anything I said. Nor did it help your "18s will give less of a gap than 17s" arguement

and wtf did I say that wasn't "entirely true?" That I didn't keep my same ride height? Are you serious? hahahaha
got_chub wrote:i hope you know that the series is the percentage of the width.
got_chub wrote:now if you want to say i didn't post in the right place i gave the reason in the beginning if you read that. NOT MUCH TRAFFIC IN THE WHEEL SECTION!
doesn't matter. Tire, suspension, and wheel topics will be moved regardless. If I dont do it, another mod will. Don't like it? Then leave.
got_chub wrote:now just so i don't have to hear any more BS from the "wheel mod".
pffff... man, everyones thinking the same thing when reading your posts. I just have the nuts to call you out on it. Stop being so ignorant, Chubbs.
nismofly wrote:beggers cant be choosers

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homeslicej2
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got_chub wrote:not entirely true. i just switched from 205/40/17 all around to 225/40/17 & 235/40/17 and my car is now about 1" higher. i hope you know that the series is the percentage of the width.
The aspect ratio is the height of the sidewall based upon that percentage number of the tread width. Meaning, a 40 series tire has a side wall that is as high/tall as 40% of the width of the tread. So, a 205/40 tire has a sidewall that is 82mm high/tall (205 x 40% = 82), while a 225/40 tire has a sidewall that is 90mm high/tall (225 x40% = 90), and a 235/40 sidewall is 94mm. This is a 12mm difference in back, 8 mm up front. You then have to double this difference to get your change in overall diameter bc it is a change in sidewall height, not the the OD. Use this link to get a better understanding of this http://www.1010tires.com/TireS...ubmit.It takes 2.54 centimeters to = 1 inch, so this results in a change of 16mm up front and 24mm out back, or ~5/8" (f) and ~15/16" (b) in overall diameter increases based upon your tire/wheel combos. Next time, measure the gap between your tires and fenderwell, and the the gap between your framerail and the ground before you switch tire/wheel sizes so you can get an accurate measurement of the changes. Also, keeping the same OD keeps your odometer/speedometer correct. A Google search will bring up many sites that let you plug in stock tire/wheel sizes and the sizes you want to change to and let you know how the OD compare so you can keep the same OD with larger wheels/shorter sidewall tires. Keeping the same OD will maintain the same ride height/fender gap even with larger wheels. You have to use lowering springs/coilovers or the wrong OD wheel/tire combo to change the gap. Using the wrong OD wheel/tire combo will mess up your speedo/odo, make your final drive ratio shorter/taller (shorter if OD is less, taller if OD is more than stock). Shorter final drive results in increased tire wear, bc the tire makes more revolutions to travel the same distance, easier to spin out if you've got the power, higher RPM's at any speed in any gear than before. Taller final drive will hurt acceleration in a stock KA or stock SR or any motor that doesn't really make a lot of low-end torque. Also, Nismofly and Adrian do know what they are talking about. Take their advice and remember that not everything translates well over typed words on the interweb.
Modified by homeslicej2 at 9:15 AM 2/15/2008

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WDRacing
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Hard to argue against things that are simply fact. Great post BTW, very clear and easy to understand

WD

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homeslicej2
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WDRacing wrote:Hard to argue against things that are simply fact.

WDRacing wrote:Great post BTW, very clear and easy to understand

WD
Thanks man

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White Comet
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good post homeslice, how is this thread still going on? this isnt rocket science

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dickie
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one last thing:

< -- sick and tired of people posting stuff in gen chat that does not belong because "there's no traffic" in the right forums. do you realize how stupid that is? if you dont post there, of course there is "less traffic," its a self-defeating circle. if i move your thread there - and i WILL - you are guaranteed to get a better response opposed to all kinds of trash comments that are worthless and do nothing but take the focus off your issue and spawn ot discussion.


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AZhitman
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I can make this real simple - Let the picky chick find her own damn wheels.

No one with $600 to spend has ANY business shopping for 18's for a 240sx.

18" tires that are worth a damn will cost you $1K minimum. Wheels? Figure another $2K at least.

By the way, our wheel / tire Moderators were selected because they have EXTENSIVE experience in fitment and application of wheels / tires.

By virtue of your posts, OP, it's clear you don't. So you either want help, or you want to argue. Only one of those is gonna work in your favor.


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White Comet
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well put greg very true, $600 for 18s might get u some vorks by ravs engineering

Nacho_240
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^^^ LOL

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homeslicej2
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^

"At Vork Racing Wheel, we take great pride in our products. These wheels are hand-made by 7 year-old Filipino children using the absolute highest quality Chinese aluminum stock. We back our products 100% and our rigorous R & D proves it. We submit each finished wheel to 5 minutes (!) of actual vehicle weight bearing tests to ensure that they meet our extreme standards of strength and durability! Our wheels meet the world-class quality and workmanship standards set forth by the notoriously strict organizations: 'The People's Republic of Chinese Quality of Industrial Products and 'The United Chinese Engineering Association'. Since we take such stringent measures to ensure that only the best products come out of our 80 year-old factories, as our customer, you know that you are getting one of the best and most reliable products on the market."

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adrianfromthecastle
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rofl ^^

where the hell did you get that info from? is that real? LOL
homeslicej2 wrote:These wheels are hand-made by 7 year-old Filipino children

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the converted
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China town, right next to the Bolex's

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White Comet
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s14tan posted a link to them in a thread about the chunk that came out of the sportmax wheel. this thread made me think of them

edit- my bad it was linked in teh thread where the guy was asking for a knock off of a sportmax 501 (or 002). and no one could figure out who makes a kock off of a knock off, but tano found vorks

got chub
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for all you people that think this would do better in the right section zerothread?id=309245 zero comment!

also when the front is 8mm and the rear is 12mm to get the size difference you have to double the difference. that would be 16mm and 24mm for the over all difference in tire high from bottom to top. so take your advice and go plug in some numbers

sorry for the bad grammar i didn't know i was getting graded.

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dickie
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honestly dude, its not open for argument. wheels/tires etc... threads go into wheels/tires. you will get a response if you are patient, and it will be better than

"OMFG get sportmax, yo!" "sportmaxes are for posers" "hey what rims should i use even tho this is the OPS thread?" and so on...

like you get in gen chat. keeps things less cluttered and when someone needs to search to find info they dont have to bother searching multiple forums because they know where it should be.

sounds like if yall only have $600 and are looking for 18" wheels and appropriate tires, you are going to have some downtime while you continue to save before you NEED an answer.

thanks.

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nismofly
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i saw both threads, this one had responses, this is the one i posted in

both of your threads are in w/t/b/s, this one got moved here probably within a few hours of you creating it, and you never even noticed apparently

nobody responded to the other one because they were all responding to this one, because they were both in the same place and this one is the one that had responses

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nismofly
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there i deleted your other thread in case anyone was at all confused

R6_240sx
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got_chub wrote:also when the front is 8mm and the rear is 12mm to get the size difference you have to double the difference. that would be 16mm and 24mm for the over all difference in tire high from bottom to top. so take your advice and go plug in some numbers
Why the f*ck does that matter about ride height? Are u telling me the top of ur damn tire is going to raise the car? You gotta be f*ckin kidding me.

Before u try to be a smarta$$ and restate what someone else said and throw it back at their face atleast know what the hell ur saying, sheesh.

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homeslicej2
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adrians_s13 wrote:rofl ^^

where the hell did you get that info from? is that real? LOL
No, it's not real I was bored and typed it up after seeing the pic of the Vork wheel

^No, he's right Brian. I was wrong (that's what happens when you type in haste and don't take the time to think). The numbers relate to the sidewall height. If the sidewall of tire two is 8mm taller all the way around, then the OD of the tire is indeed 16mm more. If you measure the sidewall from the wheel lip to the tread at the fender side, it is 8mm more (90-82=8), if you measure from the wheel lip to the ground, then you again get a sidewall difference of 8 mm more than before (225/40 tire vs 205/40 tire). So 8+8 =16mm or about 5/8". Draw one tire, then draw another tire outside of it that has an 8mm taller sidewall and you'll find that the tire has 16mm more of OD. More OD results in higher ride height measured from framerail to ground (8mm lower in this example), and less fender gap (8mm less), along with a taller final drive. The change in ride height and fender gap is half the change of overall diameter.

http://www.1010tires.com/TireS...ubmit

Use the link to do a comparison b/t the 205/40 and the 225/40. The OD of the 225 is .63 inches greater than the 205, bc the sidewall height is .315 inches greater.


Modified by homeslicej2 at 7:38 AM 2/18/2008

R6_240sx
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Yes the OD will double, but the ride hide will not double. He's trying to find ways to make his answer right about RIDE HEIGHT, but its NOT. Think about it.

The hub is the center of the wheel, if u increase ur sidewall by 8mm u only raise ur car 8mm, the other 8mm of the OD is going to give u 8mm less fender gap (from top of tire to fender).

Don't doubt ur knowledge next time justin.

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nismofly
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^^ thats what it is

theres only one sidewall between the wheel and the ground, so while his OD will increase double the sidewall numbers, so 16mm and 24mm, thats how much more theyll fill up his wheel wells

but for ride height, theres only the one sidewall, so only 8mm and 12mm increase in actual ride height

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twistedragdoll
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AZhitman wrote:I can make this real simple - Let the picky chick find her own damn wheels.

No one with $600 to spend has ANY business shopping for 18's for a 240sx.

18" tires that are worth a damn will cost you $1K minimum. Wheels? Figure another $2K at least.

By the way, our wheel / tire Moderators were selected because they have EXTENSIVE experience in fitment and application of wheels / tires.

By virtue of your posts, OP, it's clear you don't. So you either want help, or you want to argue. Only one of those is gonna work in your favor.
I have a right to be picky. I don't want some random crap on my car that I'm not going to like a couple months down the road. And does it really matter to anyone if I'm going to be waiting to buy tires after I buy wheels? (I work in a daycare - don't get paid very much.) And I'm asking for help, because I'm not very familiar with the different brands/companies for wheels. So instead of being complete a**holes about everything, just give some advice.

For all the other people who keep saying I need to convert my car to a 5 lug because it has more options. I have a 96 SE, it's already 5 lug. But for the Tenzos, they don't offer an option for the 5 lug in the "time attack" style. That's why I asked for help.

For the moderators...instead of arguing about offsets, ride height, and whatever it is your arguing about...how about you just list out a bunch of companies that you know of that carries the "time attack" style for a 5 lug 240 that has an offset that would work. It probably would help out a lot better instead of reading a bunch of BS.

THANKS.

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nismofly
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ive already done that, you said you didnt want them, youre out of luck

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homeslicej2
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R6_240sx wrote:Yes the OD will double, but the ride hide will not double. Think about it....
Yeah, I know. I wasn't clear with my writing yet again . You guys have made it clear though, so I'll not worry about editing my post.

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Brandon93240
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My advice is to pick the wheel you truely like in the correct size, offset, and price you can afford. Save some money and have the wheels painted black if they aren't avail. in black and have a stripe painted on and clear over the entire wheel. By doing this you are getting what you want in the style of wheel you want at the price you can afford. Also by picking a wheel that isn't avail. in the TA scheme and painting them to look that way counts as originality points. Also tire prices are close for similar size 18's and 17's. If you daily drive the car I'd recommend a 300 tread wear tire. A 18x8.5 +25 Rota p45 is avail in the TA scheme but the price is more than 600, but not out of sight. I'd run a 235/40/18 all the way around. A 225/40 is closer to the orignal 205/55 as far as od. but the 235 will give you a little more sidewall, reduce fender gap slightly and give you a longer lasting tire. These sizes and offsets are good choices for a dd and not having a stretched tire will save you if you scrub a curb. I wouldn't go with the 245/40/18 tire, the price is about 20-30 more a tire and without being able to adjust the caster in the front they will most likely rub the splash sheilds. I'm not a moderator, I work on cars daily, I've had 240's for over 10 years and this is what I'd recommend to you. Hope I've been helpful.


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