next question form the newbie. my left rear electric door lock has not worked in some time (must operate manually) and now the right rear is starting to act up. will work sometime other times not. Tell me it is an easy fix.

While I am at it...My parking lights do not blink off and on when I use my remote. any ideas?

My passenger door in my 94 Q45t has stopped communicating with my remotes and the console control. I think it might be the contacts in the wiring in the door. When I get the chance I plan to open up the panel, clean the contacts and see if that fixes it.

let me know how that goes...

Long story short...when I bought the car...left rear door window switch on the console did not work, left rear door lock would not work with the remote or master switch on the drivers door and the parking lights would not blink when i locked the doors with the remote. The guy I bought the car from said they had always work...geee whiz don't know what the problem might be. He was an old tobacco farmer so I trusted his excuse and thought perhaps a common ground.

Now my right rear passenger door lock is acting up so I suspect my door lock problem is one in it self. perhaps an actuator. This leads me to think the left rear window switch on the console is bad and as for the blinking parking lights Who the F**K knows.

Thanks again and do let me know what you find on your Q

It's pretty easy to see if there is power to the actuator and the window motor. You just need to pull the door panel off and test for power right at the actuator or window motor. Both use a "reverse polarity" type system. That means that when the window goes up or the door locks one wire will be positive + and the other will be negative -. When you roll the window down or unlock the door, the wires will be the opposite. The one that was positive will be negative and the negative will now be positive. You need to check both wires for positive and negative as they both go through the relays/switches. In other words, don't connect your meter to a ground and just test one wire at a time until you verify if you do or don't have power to the motor or relays. One may be positive but the other one may not be negative at the same time, which it needs to be. If you have both meter leads on the motor and you don't show 12VDC while either going up/down or lock/unlock, at that point you would check each wire idividually to figure out which one you are missing, positive or negative.

The reason for this type of testing is that each switch and relay has two contacts, normally closed and normally open. Both are used and if you have a problem you need to figure out if it's the N.O. or N.C. contact in which switch or relay to isolate it.

This make any sense. Does to me but I do this everyday. If you find that either the positive or ground isn't there then the issue is with the switches or relays. If both + and - are there at the right times the problem is with the motor or actuator.

If I lost you I can explain better. Let me know.

Oh, and on the lights. I have an aftermarket system now so I can't remember for sure but I didn't think the OEM keyless system flashed the parking lights. The headlights flash when you hit the panic or the OEM alarm goes off but I don't think the parking lights flash upon lock/unlock. Can anyone else that still uses the OEM keyless system confirm whether the parking lights flash upon lock/unlock?

My corner combo lights flash when I use the remote. You might try reprogramming it:

zerothread?id=135243
Modified by 96Qowner at 9:54 AM 8/31/2006

I think I am following you okay. In fact I printed out your instructions so I can have them close when I start the job. I will give it a try and see how it goes. If I have any questions I will let you know. Thanks

Arg! I pasted the wrong link! Corrected now.

Corner lights do blink with OEM locks when all locks are operating properly. Mine operated just fine until my left rear door just quit locking electronically. That's when the other three doors still lock with the fob, but no more blinking.

I would concentrate on getting the door actuators working again, and you may find that your lights will resume the blink confirmation when everything is operational.

bamaQ45

Another thing y'all should consider - could be the window amplifier that's failed (failing) and not the actuator itself.

The '94 I just bought had a similar problem. The RF power door lock didn't work and the RF power window switch in the console would not operate the window. I too thought it was an actuator or a wiring problem but T3 said it was a window amplifier. They replaced with new and both switches work fine.

IIRC, each door has an amplifier that controls both the power lock and the power window. So if you have two windows or locks acting up, you might need two amplifiers replaced.

I always start by doing the tests in the FSM for "LAN Troubleshooting"Just look in the FSM at page EL-79 forward. Start with mode 1, 2, then 3 or 4 (depnding on problem).

Thanks to all.

If the amp is cheap enough i may take the lazy way out and replace and see it that is the problem. Ohter wise will follow the fsm and test to find the problem . currently working on getting the fsm

Another thing y'all should consider - could be the window amplifier that's failed (failing) and not the actuator itself.@@@@@@@@@@@@@

I tried to look up the window amplifer on everythinginfiniti and could not find the part.

I think that is the problem...as I mentioned the rt rear door lock is starting to act up. the last time it did I noticed the window switch in the console also did not work (based on the info in your post).

Can you or anyone direct me to where to find the part? part # etc

TIA

I've got the parts list and I don't see anything called a window amplifier. I see every part in the door like regulator, regulator motor, actuators, but no amplifier.

"Window amplifier" is the term Ty at T3 told me when he described the fix to my problem and that's what is written on my service invoice.

Looking at the service manual, they show a "Power window control unit" in RH and LH, front and rear. So I'm guessing what was actually replaced was my Front power window control unit - RH.

Both power window and power lock operations are controlled by the LCU - Local Control Unit. There are 11 LCU's, all tied into the BCM - Body Control Module. This comprises the LAN system in the car.

The RR window and lock LCU is LCU03. LR LCU is LCU04. Both these LCU's appear to be located inside the doors behind the door panels.

Keep in mind all this info comes from the service manual. I have not disassembled these sections of the car nor have I replaced or tested the LCU's.

Just to follow-up on this post... I finally replaced the left rear LCU04 lan unit (window amplfier) and door lock and window now operate properly, including the blinking light mode when using my remote to lock. Problem solved. Thanks to all.

The module inside that door?

thanks to all. Since my mechanic could not isolate the problem from the main control unit I guess I will bite the bullet and just order a local control unit for the front passenger door and see if that works. Again, this website is a great help in isolating problems. Aloha!

bretfraz wrote:Another thing y'all should consider - could be the window amplifier that's failed (failing) and not the actuator itself.

The '94 I just bought had a similar problem. The RF power door lock didn't work and the RF power window switch in the console would not operate the window. I too thought it was an actuator or a wiring problem but T3 said it was a window amplifier. They replaced with new and both switches work fine.

IIRC, each door has an amplifier that controls both the power lock and the power window. So if you have two windows or locks acting up, you might need two amplifiers replaced.

Thanks you guys! I replaced the right front amplifier and now both power window and power door lock work like a charm.

I just recieved a quote of $85 shipped for a LCU-03 amp.

Good or bad price?

Actually, I can get it to you for about $50 + shipping

The problem i'm having is that my driver window is half way down and wont go back up. When i pull up on the driver window button for the driver window go up all it does is click. I took the door panel off and when i push the window button up or down all i hear is something clicking, any ideal what this could be? I held the window amplifier in my hand while i tried pushing on the button and i fill the window amplifier clicking. Would this be the window amplifier or my power window motor? any help would be appreciated. Also If anyone is located in Raleigh N.C. be nice to get a hand i need to get this window all the way up....

Magnum PI wrote:My passenger door in my 94 Q45t has stopped communicating with my remotes and the console control. I think it might be the contacts in the wiring in the door. When I get the chance I plan to open up the panel, clean the contacts and see if that fixes it. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/image ... s/werd.gif" BORDER="0">

Hey i have a q45 infiniti 95 everything was working perfect in my car windows seats gas trunk hood roof ects.. everyhting. i recently changed my deck put in a cd player, i also put in an intake. im finished now but my passenger rear windows dont work(dont go down on any counsil) my driver still works my remote doesnt lock my doors neither does any of the buttons inside. went back through checked the fuses checked the wires everything is connected right. i think my problem is in the wireing behind the deck or near or around the shifter. any help...