G37 Subwoofer install and OEM intergration

[the converted]

Didn't I tell you that, and even what the wire colors were?

[joe603]

Didn't I tell you that, and even what the wire colors were?

I thought you meant before the main Bose amp...

Looking at the wiring diagrams, I thought it was interesting that the head unit outputs only front R/L and rear R/L. The Bose amp processes that to send out a center channel speaker, and splits the front woofer and squawker (which is further split to the tweeter at the speaker).

Still cant find a good resource that has all the speaker sizes...I think the door woofers are 10" and the squawker/center are 4". I'm not sure about the rear door...6.5" maybe?

[Rex]

Around $800...but I have found this website where you can get gear much cheaper than MSRP.

http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/

I've heard bad things about this company and a quick google turned up this
http://www.la.bbb.org/Business-Report/D ... -100072683

So, how much space are you willing to give up and what "sound" are you after? Just some additional low end?

Are you planning on doing anything more than a sub and amp? If so, I'd say you're headed down the road of an unbalanced set up.

Lots of factors.

[joe603]

Don't think I'll be dealing with dealer cost audio...don't need that hassle to save a few bucks.

I'm looking to do what I did in my 05 coupe...just have added low-end bass. The Bose system sounds decent for mids/highs...just a serious lack of bass.

I got the same reaction to my last setup...but it sounded great once completed. It even surprised Matt at a NOPI event!

I'm not willing to give up much space...probably about 1cu' for each sub, mounted on the sides. Like this (not sure I want to get rid of my spare again...mounting the amp in a different location:

[Rex]

... I got the same reaction to my last setup...but it sounded great once completed. It even surprised Matt at a NOPI event! ...

I guess what I was saying is you can get the sound you want without 1000 watts.

Do you recall where the gains on the amps were or how the system was set up (fade, balance, bass, "loudness", etc)?

I think a dedicated 500 (real) watts at 12.6 volts(not 14.4) amp. So look for amps with RMS ratings for 12.6 volts.

I've been out of the game way too long to know "what's what" in the car audio industry today, but a legitimate doubling of your mid/highs power for your low end sound should be plenty. Especially if you're using an efficient sub in a properly built box.