dry kits have their place too. IMO wet kits are safer because you can tune your fuel without relying on the MAF/MAP sensor to add fuel for you. Sometimes you get unintended timing changes on dry kits that can lead to slower times then you would acheive with a wet kit. I think I remember the Titan guys running into this problem.toddnos wrote:ive never been fond of single fogger wet kits. id rather run a dry kit with bigger injectors.
consistent bottle pressure is important..just my .02
ive been using nitrous for over a decade in honda builds..i love the stuff.
Ok dynotunenitrous has a kit for $400. Are their kits reliable? I never heard of them. BTW they can't even spell Infiniti right.gwoods wrote:
Sorry dude the nitrous kits were sold as soon as the truck was traded for the G, watch ebay. I'd steer clear of used solenoids but all the other parts should be a good used purchase.
Not all heaters are equal, zex and nos brand heaters take a long time to get a bottle up to operating temp and a low bottle may never reach a safe pressure. I suggest using this companies bottle HEATERs
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com
Stay away from their O2 sensor though, I tried 2 of them and neither worked. Dynotune did however give me a FULL refund including my shipping. Great customer service and generally helpful people.
i would define the term "used correctly" as such:never squeeze below 3000 rpmnever squeeze while bouncing off the rev limiter( like in the burnout box at the track) or when a gear is missed(for MT)never squeeze with bottle pressure below 900 psinever squeeze with bottle pressure exceeding 1200 psirun premium or better fuelcheck your sparkplugs after every nitrous use, or at least often as you can, because your sparkplugs will tell you if your are running lean rich or detonating.Jacko3 wrote:Todnos:
How should I define or take the phrase "when used correctly" as a neophyte in this type of gambit with my G-35 C? I mean, I know next to nothing about this stuff, and so how would I know if I am operating it correctly or not?
most definatly i didnt know you had or were considering a wideband.but the widband will not show the flecks of black that shows on plugs porcelin when detonating.its just an old school thing to constantly monitor plugs when squeezing.ive blown the electrode completly off a sparkplug when squeezing under poor conditions...your wideband wont tell you that happened....BrandAidDesignG35 wrote:Rather than checking the plugs, wouldn't the wideband commander A/F sensors pick up on running lean It gives you a readout after you finish the run... I guess it wouldn't hurt to check them anyway though, just to be safe...
LOL That would've been too much to handle over lunch hourJacko3 wrote:Brandaid:
You are lucky the man did not come after you, else we would have read in the papers, "17" Chrome Wheels: Man gets a beat down for spitting "
Yep, next year, instead of adding the exhaust manifold, I am seriously looking at tuning the car with the U-Tec system. And I bet my gas mileage will improve as well.
Good tip! Worth checking them for suretoddnos wrote:most definatly i didnt know you had or were considering a wideband.but the widband will not show the flecks of black that shows on plugs porcelin when detonating.its just an old school thing to constantly monitor plugs when squeezing.ive blown the electrode completly off a sparkplug when squeezing under poor conditions...your wideband wont tell you that happened....
Without starting a pissing match with TODDNOS who sounds like he may know more about nitrous then I do.toddnos wrote:most definatly i didnt know you had or were considering a wideband.but the widband will not show the flecks of black that shows on plugs porcelin when detonating.its just an old school thing to constantly monitor plugs when squeezing.ive blown the electrode completly off a sparkplug when squeezing under poor conditions...your wideband wont tell you that happened....