G35 with NO2

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BrandAidDesignG35
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Hey guys and gals...

I went on a mad shopping adventure today, and in my delirious state, I ordered a wet nitrous kit from Nitrous oxide systems (NOS)



It's the sniper line for 4-6 cylinder cars... It will go up to 75 shot, but I can likely upgrade the jets to allow more power down the road... Anyone else get juiced yet???

Let me know if there's anything I should look out for.... BTW I'm psyched... well I guess you all know how goes.... I was so pissed with my times at the track... this should pick it up a notch


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zozoka1212
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Good God. You are really pissed.

Jeff or Beanor will be here soon with their advises. I suck at this things just like mostly other things. hehehe

Now I want to see slips BADLY.

Congrats on your juice man.

Maybe you should ask for a title. Do a write up for installation. Juice boy.

heheheheh

zozo


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That will fix it...

What did that cost?

DJ

TeflonG35
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Zex has one for about $550.



It has been tested and proved to work well in a 350z.

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One of these days I'm going to do it... FI that is and when i go that way it will be Vortec!

DJ

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gwoods
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zozoka1212 wrote:Good God. You are really pissed.

Jeff or Beanor will be here soon with their advises. I suck at this things just like mostly other things. hehehe

Now I want to see slips BADLY.

Congrats on your juice man.

Maybe you should ask for a title. Do a write up for installation. Juice boy.
Here comes the advise...

1# RPM window switch $30 baker electonics will make a customs one, run it off a coil pack signal wire. 3000-7000 rpm this could save your motor if you red line and will save your transmission by stoping the nitrous flow briefly between shifts.

#2 Wide band O2 sensor http://www.widebandcommander.com/$500 I recommend the wide band commander. .... this is the ONLY way to know what the nitrous is doing to your motor. Nitrous works the same way a super charger or turbo charger does by adding more oxygen to the motor then is available normally in the atmosphere. More oxygen you add the more fuel you can burn the more power you make until you reach the limits of your combustion chamber, exhaust sytem ect. If for any reason your system is lean or TURNS lean during a run you will see it happening on the wide band and be able to get out of the throttle and nitrous thus saving your motor.

Another thing to consider, the plenum/intake on the G is a DRY intake meaning fuel is injected at the cylinder head not at the top where air enters, the intake is designed to flow air and gases not liquids. There is the potential for fuel to pool/puddle inside the intake. Then when enough vapor gets need the hot combustion chamber it will ignite and you will have a nitrous back fire, very cool to see if is not your car. Basically it will destroy the intake and melt anything plastic around it, fire will shoot up your windshield and you will be forever chasing down electrical problems once you replace all the broken parts IF you don't destroy the motor at the same time.

If you have a wide band you will see the fuel starting to puddle because the car will start running lean and you will have time to abort the run.

#3 Fuel pressure safety switch

$50, if fuel pressure drops on the fuel rail which can happen for any number of reasons the nitrous system will turn off.

This also prevents running lean.

Your car is going to be SO fast!!! Nitrous is like crack cocaine we are going to see you selling things on here to buy nitrous fills When the nitrous hits its like a truck just rammed your car it will push you back into the seat and the car will surge forward.... man do I miss nitrous!

My Hemi had a duel kit, 75hp 1st stage 125 hp second stage

I installed the nitrous in March and broke the transmission and motor in July Just used a couple bottles

The purge came out the rams nose on the grill




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gwoods
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Looks like you need a purge solenoid too

did a photobucket search for nitrous backfire.....



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bRbd3-Myg0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYf5OIQG8XA

Hopefully I've scared you into buying a wideband o2
Modified by gwoods at 8:38 AM 9/25/2008

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Go safe with what Jeff said!

I don't want to read in a month or so that you blew the motor in your G!

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gwoods
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You also need a blow down tube, nitrous pressure gauge and a bottle heater, don't use nitrous without a bottle heater, your results will be dangerous and inconsistant.

When you install it do not us tape on the fittings small parts of the tape will make it to the solenoids and jam them open. Use liquid teflon pipe sealant, speedshops that fill nitrous will sell the teflon you need.

Fuel pressure gauges are nice, I did a Gaffrig marine fuel pressure gauge cause it is electric and only $63! NHRA doesn't allow mechanical fuel gauges inside the car.

http://www.gaffrigperformance....ry=71

Your going to need a fire jacket to pass NHRA tech.

BrandAidDesignG35
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TeflonG35 wrote:Zex has one for about $550.



It has been tested and proved to work well in a 350z.
I almost bought this one (125 shot?), but I don't want to damage my baby so I just got one w/ 25-50-75 jets... good for a young gwasshoppah.

Thanks Jeff for the safety pointers, I'm ordering a bottle heater, no2 pressure gauge, and the purge solenoid as well.

This wide band commander you speak of, where does it go? Is it programmable?

I will only be using a 1 stage setup for now, but I've heard they can be effective as a dual stage system, when tuned properly.

Just found out last night I can do dyno testing etc on Wednesdays, so that will help me score hp#s.

I respect the dangers of Nitrous oxide, as I have a good buddy with a 240sx who was running 100 shots of NO2, he has crazy internals in his car, and has pushed it over 175whp without nos, he had a situation like posted above, he blew the intake completely

So, I will approach this with caution, and again thanks for the info, I have a friend who has a garage, we met last weekend at the track and he's going to help me with the install, isn't that nice I will probably have to spend another 1000 before this is a "safe" mod to add...

Thanks all, I'm psyched

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G_whizz
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OH WOW!!! You lucky S.O.B.!!!

I can't wait to see LOTS of vids!! Inside and out of the car please!!

Also, a write up for others interested would be REALLY appreciated!!

Man Grant...I am sooo envious right now!

Congrats!!!


BrandAidDesignG35
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Hey man it was YOU who pushed me over the edge

Those damn newbie comments about my first trip to the track... lolSo... if I do a write up and schtuff can I get the custom title juice boy as zozo recommended??? I was going to ask for trailer park g35 because I'm from where they film trailer park boys.

But juice boy has a commanding presence don't you think?

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G_whizz
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BrandAidDesignG35 wrote:Hey man it was YOU who pushed me over the edge

Those damn newbie comments about my first trip to the track... lolSo... if I do a write up and schtuff can I get the custom title juice boy as zozo recommended??? I was going to ask for trailer park g35 because I'm from where they film trailer park boys.

But juice boy has a commanding presence don't you think?


You can have any Custom Title you want!



Damn your gonna have a blast!!

Literally!!

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
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I guess the Economy isn't that bad in your house is it???



take lots of picsDJ

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gwoods
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BrandAidDesignG35 wrote: This wide band commander you speak of, where does it go? Is it programmable?

I will only be using a 1 stage setup for now, but I've heard they can be effective as a dual stage system, when tuned properly.
Click the link and look at the web site. The wideband commander does data log so you can go back and look at your AF during the race.

The wideband is just a gauge the tells you the cars AF ratio in real time.

Stage one is plenty for a 6 cylinder. It comes down to the size of the shot. If I have a 200 hp single stage or a 125+75 dual stage they are equal. The advantage to a dual stage is you can stagger when the nitrous comes on. 200hp shot is useless in 1st and 2nd gear so I would just run the 1st stage, then when the truck shifted into 3rd gear IF I needed it I could activate the 125 hp second stage by holding down a button on a self curling cable.


TeflonG35
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BrandAidDesignG35 wrote: I almost bought this one (125 shot?), but I don't want to damage my baby so I just got one w/ 25-50-75 jets... good for a young gwasshoppah.
You can adjust the shot.

BrandAidDesignG35
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gwoods wrote:
Click the link and look at the web site. The wideband commander does data log so you can go back and look at your AF during the race.

The wideband is just a gauge the tells you the cars AF ratio in real time.

Stage one is plenty for a 6 cylinder. It comes down to the size of the shot. If I have a 200 hp single stage or a 125+75 dual stage they are equal. The advantage to a dual stage is you can stagger when the nitrous comes on. 200hp shot is useless in 1st and 2nd gear so I would just run the 1st stage, then when the truck shifted into 3rd gear IF I needed it I could activate the 125 hp second stage by holding down a button on a self curling cable.
thanks for bearing with me guys.Jeff you always scare me with your stories... but I appreciate your help... you know, I recall reading up on the forums around the time you had some trouble with your truck, do you think the engine/transmission failure was due to the NX 125s?

So, I'm trying to gather a list of everything I need in one quick checklist

TeflonG35
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This should be sticky or something. NOS is something a lot of people are curious about. Keeping people informed on how to do it safely is very important.

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Beancooker
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Jeff pretty much hit all the spots I would have hit. I could talk about n2o, but I would just be repeating what he has said...

However, if you don't take that advice, your car is more likely to have some catastrophic failure.

Jacko3
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Brandaid:

Well done! It looks nice. I would like to hear more about this NOS system and how it works with your car. By the way, do you work for a hospital or healthcare system?


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gwoods
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BrandAidDesignG35 wrote: thanks for bearing with me guys.Jeff you always scare me with your stories... but I appreciate your help... you know, I recall reading up on the forums around the time you had some trouble with your truck, do you think the engine/transmission failure was due to the NX 125s?

So, I'm trying to gather a list of everything I need in one quick checklist
No I don't think the NO2 caused the failures but it didn't help. There are plenty of Hemi's that broke the ring land on #3 and most trucks with over 350 rwhp didn't do demand downshifts into 2nd unless they wanted a new transmission. I think it was a combination of alot of things. I was making around 400-450 hp (camed/ tuned/3" dual exhaust no cats/headers/ignition/6.1 hemi intake manifold, valve cover and coil pack) without nitrous on a drivetrain designed for 345 hp.

The Hemi transmission is the same POS transmission DC has put in Jeep Cherokee's and Dakota's since the late 90's. In the Jeep/Dak its a 45rfe in the Hemi its a 545RFE, using computer tricks it becomes a 5spd auto. The problem is for a demand downshift 2nd gear the transmission has to use the 4th gears clutchs/steels. 4th gear is an overdrive gear and these parts are about 3" in diameter vs the 5-8" diameter 1-2-3 clutches.

I LOVED making the truck do demand downshifts into 2nd gear, I knew it was killing the transmission I was surprised how fast. I never did a demand downshift into 2nd on nitrous. Even still the input hubs teeth were almost worn smooth at 57k miles. I could rebuild a 545rfe by myself including pulling and re installing the transmission in a long Sunday. I just got tired of ALWAYS having to work on the truck. I broke the differential 3 times in 57k miles A year later I still have a complete Chyrsler 9.25 master rebuild kit, trac loc clutch kit (limited slip) and 2 bottles of syn gear oil in my garage. I should put it on ebay!

The transmission failed doing a demand downshift into 2nd gear it downshifted BANGED and shuddered then I red lined. Stock Hemi's are set to redline at 5700 rpm mine redlined at 6400 rpm. I think the transmission breaking cracked the ring land on #3.

If you need any help with the install shoot me an email. I've done a few. Just take your time and try to design a system with some fail safes and you should be fine especially with the 50-75 hp shot. Nitrous on its own is not bad for the motor. Its running lean that kills the motor.

I thought of some more advise,

put in 1 step colder spark plugs I think NKG 4306 was what I ran in the Hemi on nitrous.

Water/meth injection is another way to make nitrous safer because the water cools the intake temp and makes the air denser and the meth raises your octane rating and prevents detonation.

It is SO addictive though, when the nitrous comes on the car just flys!!!

Shoot lots of video, I have NO video of my truck running on nitrous. I just have a few pics of the setup


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gwoods
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TeflonG35 wrote:
You can adjust the shot.
Those solenoids are probably limited to 125hp shot with no pills in them.

They look small, not a bad thing just not going to flow a 200 shot or something crazy like that. Do you have fuel pressure on the rail for more then 75hp shot probably not, the only way you'll know is if you have fuel pressure gauge

Here the truck of the guy that helped me with my nitrous set up... he went through 6 transmission when I talked to him last year.

Two 11 second runs in the 120's, what does the GTR do? http://videos.streetfire.net/v...1.htmh ... /v...7.htm

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soul_hfk
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nice jeff

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Sounds like it was a good thing you got the G

DJ

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gwoods
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Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT wrote:Sounds like it was a good thing you got the G

DJ
My G is just as fast as my truck (no NOS) in the 1/4 mile but I think the truck would be few tenths ahead of it to 60mph.

The G handles and stops 100 times better and is more fun to drive. I rarely had a woman look lovingly at the truck. Girls drool over the G everyday. My wifes friends all beg me for a ride in it when they came over and it was new.

At the point where the truck was running low 14's NA I never felt confident that it would get me where I needed to go.

If I ever have money to buy a track toy it would be a 88-89 V8 Mustang or a single cab Hemi Ram

Found another video of my buddies ram

http://videos.streetfire.net/v...0.htm

http://videos.streetfire.net/v...4.htm
Modified by gwoods at 8:40 AM 9/26/2008

Jacko3
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Gwoods:

Your friends car is on steroids. What does he have under the hood that makes the car so responsive and fast? I can't beleive a truck is that fast.


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gwoods
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370 stroker Hemi, 3 stage nitrous.... not all he video's are on nitrous.

The truck does 0-60 in about 3 seconds, 1/4 mile in low 11's at mid 120's on nitrous.

It runs 12's on the motor.


BrandAidDesignG35
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Here's my list of to-buy items...

Jeff, would you happen to have any of the old parts laying around to sell?

#1 RPM window switch#2 Wide band O2 sensor (wide band commander)#3 Fuel pressure safety switch#4 purge solenoid#5 blow down tube#6 nitrous pressure gauge#7 bottle heater

I'm planning to do some shopping this week to get the remaining items, let me know if I'm missing anything? I'm hoping this isn't a stupid thing to do... lol Hopefully I won't have any disasters down the road

I saw a juiced 05 G sedan running low 13's on a 75 shot Let's see what I can do

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gwoods
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BrandAidDesignG35 wrote:Jeff, would you happen to have any of the old parts laying around to sell?
Sorry dude the nitrous kits were sold as soon as the truck was traded for the G, watch ebay. I'd steer clear of used solenoids but all the other parts should be a good used purchase.

Not all heaters are equal, zex and nos brand heaters take a long time to get a bottle up to operating temp and a low bottle may never reach a safe pressure. I suggest using this companies bottle HEATERs

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com

Stay away from their O2 sensor though, I tried 2 of them and neither worked. Dynotune did however give me a FULL refund including my shipping. Great customer service and generally helpful people.

BrandAidDesignG35
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No worries man,

I can get everything new, it's probably best So, I have another question Jeff What should I look for when purchasing an RPM window switch? I found some from $40 - 150+, and I'm running out of funds right now I spent quite a bit this week on stupid things for my altima, spoiler, exhaust install, lol. Oh and SBD Grounding wires NOS kit etc. I'm in tuner mode, this bug has got me, got me good.

I have gotten a quote to install the nitrous system in the event that I get to concerned, and decide to puss out, They stated they would install the system for 300 bucks, with the wideband, RPM window switch, tuning, etc. Of course, my friend also offered, but I don't know if I want to lay that kind of responsibilty in his hands Especially if I'm only paying in beer or something

So, I'm going to go shopping again today, and try and get what I can online... Keep you guys posted. thanks Jeff


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