Front end too high!!

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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hilux30
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I put a set of tien S-something springs on my s13, but the front fender gap is .75 inches more than the rear, I also have a set of RSR front springs but are too bouncy but are the right hight. Should I cut the tiens? or put the RS-R on?? I cant find rear RS-Rs to match. And don't tell me coil-overs, times are tough now....


MastaYu
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that's odd. I want to see pics of it

danielsan
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the back will sit lower if the strut bushings are worn out. get new rear struts and that will bring the back up a little higher.

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S13Joe
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hilux30 wrote:Should I cut the tiens?
no, you should not drive a 240.

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Justin35ll
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Put the lower ones in

romerider153
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do u have a sr if so that motor is lighter so if u buy teins for a 240sx then the front spring rate will be for a ka so the front will sit higher then the rear

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visser003
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Yes, NEVER cut springs.I don't know what dream world romerider153 lives in but the SR is not much lighter than the KA...so that wont affect the ride height.
Modified by visser003 at 5:11 PM 1/18/2009

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keith0486
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DirtyGhettoKids wrote:
no, you should not drive a 240.
just sell the 240 and get a civic if your going to cut the springs.

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mychalous
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LOL, why can't we educate without flaming? Everybody doesn't know everything right off the bat.

OP, don't cut your springs it will make your car handle crappy and give you a bouncy/choppy ride. If it's that important, just put the ones that give you the height you like on until you can afford something different. Sacrifices are a part of the game. You give up one thing to fulfill another.

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IanS
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If you cut your springs you may as well say goodbye to all of your dignity.
visser003 wrote:I don't know what dream world romerider153 lives in but the SR is not much lighter than the KA...so that wont affect the ride height.
Have you ever actually done an SR swap. There is a noticeable height difference when the engines are swapped, at least with stock suspension. Ive noticed on all three of the swapped cars Ive worked on.


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hilux30
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ok....I CUT THEM!!! HERE I SAID IT. it does have an SR and YES the SR's Aluminum block is considerably lighter than the Iron KA, when I had the KA it was all good on the hight... anyway as far as the ride, it's a little choppy, but I only cut 1/2 a coil. But I dont like it 'cause when the strut is totally decompressed the spring has no load and moves freely. so thick zip-ties hold the spring down. I don't like it I dont feel safe. The problem is someone at the shop tossed the RS-Rs away and I had no choice. want to find a set to replace those soft teins.

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hilux30
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and yes new takico struts and and mounts all around.....

93240cooool
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apparently the sr isnt much lighter then the ka when the ka block is made out of cast iron and the sr block is made out of aluminum. yeah dude makes perfect sense.


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SirSilvia
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keith0486 wrote:
just sell the 240 and get a civic if your going to cut the springs.
x2 lol, i would say put the lower ones on, and deal with the crappy handling. Just hit up the chiropractor more hehe. I'm still rockin the 4x4 with stock springs and probably struts. stock bushings all around. Hoping for next year to end with my car having a smoother comfortable firmer ride.

romerider153
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obviously uv never done an sr swap or really know anything about spring rates or suspensions there is a huge noticable difference especially on stock suspension and obviously lowering the car will make its less dramatic but the difference in ride height is obviosly still there how did i know he has an sr swap and how come it sat fine when the ka was in there so get out of ur dream world buddy
visser003 wrote:Yes, NEVER cut springs.I don't know what dream world romerider153 lives in but the SR is not much lighter than the KA...so that wont affect the ride height.

Modified by visser003 at 5:11 PM 1/18/2009

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xX RB Xx
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93240cooool wrote:apparently the sr isnt much lighter then the ka when the ka block is made out of cast iron and the sr block is made out of aluminum. yeah dude makes perfect sense.
yeah the ka is a whole 36 pounds heavier than an sr..

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IanS
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xX RB Xx wrote:
yeah the ka is a whole 36 pounds heavier than an sr..
Yes but take into effect all the things people remove when they do a swap.

AC compressor, condenser, and lines. There is 40 lbs.

Some people pull their power steering. Another 5 or 10 lbs.

Not to mention other little things. The average swap will drop around 100lbs off the front of the car.

Tell me this, if you put 2 fifty pound bags of sand in your trunk does the car sit lower in the rear?

You bet it does.

romerider153
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^ at least someone knows whats going on

hbpignosePA
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my guess is those aren't RSRs...... they are an extremely stiff spring rate and on s13s give an aggressive stance

how do you only have the fronts? they sell them in fours.


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nifares240
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get eibach sportlines and pair it up with kyb agx. the ride is stiff and gives a nice stance, not slammed. if you are into slammed looked, then look not farther away from coilovers.

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ddgsxr504
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This thread =

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hilux30
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I found them in a shed that we bought for storage, matched up the part #s and it so happens I got an s13, it was only the fronts. the RS-Rs are old and are not of the silicon shot-pinned kind. I came to the conclution that a set of Tein Flex coil-overs will fit my street-track combination that I'm looking for, just got to save some $$, and besides I need camber adjustment. All in all: DO NOT CUT SPRINGS less coil= less energy dessipation= crappy ride, now we know....

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xX RB Xx
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FlatBlackIan wrote:
Yes but take into effect all the things people remove when they do a swap.

AC compressor, condenser, and lines. There is 40 lbs.

Some people pull their power steering. Another 5 or 10 lbs.

Not to mention other little things. The average swap will drop around 100lbs off the front of the car.

Tell me this, if you put 2 fifty pound bags of sand in your trunk does the car sit lower in the rear?

You bet it does.
i understand your point ian,

but you also gain some of that weight back when you add the turbo, the intercooler, not much but still some.. also some people keep all that stuff too. i still have ps and ac.. but my engine ways about 100 more than a ka does too.

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IanS
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xX RB Xx wrote:
i understand your point ian,

but you also gain some of that weight back when you add the turbo, the intercooler, not much but still some.. also some people keep all that stuff too. i still have ps and ac.. but my engine ways about 100 more than a ka does too.
I factored the turbo setup into my weigh guesstimates. When I swapped, I used a skid steer to move the motors around. We had a pull scale on the hook, and the KA came out to weighing about 30 lbs more with the same accessories installed. The weight of the turbo is negated by the giant cast manifold on the KA.

The intercooler yes, but depending on what intercooler you run, they don't way much. I have an old school Greddy VSPL tube and fin, core. It weighs almost nothing, and the aluminum tubing is light too. All in all I would guess the whole setup was under 10 lbs. Now a lot of kids these days are cheaping out and running ebay bar/plate cores. Those things are heavy.

You can take you extra 2 cylinders and you can put them where the sun don't shine.

slow40
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ok, i guess i am stupid but why would nissan put all the extra money into designing and building aluminum blocks if there is no weight advantages. I mean really, comparing an iron block 2.4 liter motor ( which obviously will have larger heavier pistons at the least) to a 2.0 liter motor made almost entirely of aluminum. mom's cast iron skillet weighs alot more than her other pots and pans

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young-gunn
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I found with S techs that the front still sat pretty high, and the back dropped too low, it looked kind of odd. I never liked those springs.

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xX RB Xx
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FlatBlackIan wrote:
You can take you extra 2 cylinders and you can put them where the sun don't shine.
lol but the sound of a six cylinders going in a straight line sounds so good!

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IanS
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xX RB Xx wrote:
lol but the sound of a six cylinders going in a straight line sounds so good!
Your lies and fabrications have no effect on me (ImnotlisteningImnotlisteningImnotlistening)

disrupt
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this thread is amusing.

Some food for thought. Sure aluminum is lighter but has a low yield strength. Steel is heavier but has a higher yield strength. Typically if something is made of aluminum it is larger than a part made of steel designed to handle the same loading or stress.

Aluminum has other advantages and weakness in comparison to steel in all design applications but that is another topic.

Another thing to consider in is weight distribution. where the weight is affects how it acts on a point like your wheels similar to the idea behind leverage.

As for cutting springs. Most modern springs are progressive. This means that as the spring is compressed it take more force to compress it. Example the first inch might take 100 lbs but the second inch might take 150 more lbs.

Now all your springs are not all the same and maybe they don't have enough pre load in them to stay in the correct location in the strut.

Even worst is heating springs to lower them. Consider this. The manufacturer bought some metal with reasonable properties that were achieved through controlled heating and controlled cooling and working or forming yielding a uniform metal grain size and shape. Then they cold or hot worked the metal into a spring shape and sold it to you to provide a specific spring rate maybe even a nice progressive spring rate.

Now you heat it in a garage with a torch to an unknown temperature and allow it to cool unevenly due to some parts of the spring touching other metal and some not and at an uncontrolled rate. You just ruined all the effort that has been put it in to making those springs. The effort that you paid for.

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AZ89two4Tsx
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My god this thread is full of fail, mostly by the op. I'm leaving. Bye.


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