From one Vet to another... Need help starting.

[180crafter]

Hello.

I used to frequent these parts of the board, but have been stuck to the Gen Chat for a while. Have come back to answer questions and help others, but I now find myself in a bit of a bind.

A few months back, I freid almost everythign electrical with the reverse polarity battery cables trick. It did a doozy. Had to get a new Power FC, a new Ignitor, and abotu 5 million fuses. Finallly got everythign I need, and have been trying to get this mother started.

Ive got a gt28rs in there, along with a ssautochrome mani. Ive got 550cc injectors, a 300zx MAF, and internals that can take 600hp.

The car cranks, catches, but wont run. It Just goes up, and then down. I havent moved the CAS since this all happened, so I didnt think the timing would be affected. Still, I moved the CAS some, and it didnt help. Please point me in the right direction.

Its been almost 2 whole years since I have ahd this car running as my daily driver. I need this thing working again.

Thanks in advance for all of your help guys. I really appreciate it.

[Hijacker]

ouch.

have you checked to see if any wiring melted? i've seen people arc the battery or the starter terminals and melt their wiring harnesses. Next thing I would look at is other electrical parts that were fried. the CAS being one of them. with all the modern electronics we have in these cars, it's hard to pinpoint what could be failing and what couldn't be. But that's all I can think of to start you off in the right direction.

[IanS]

There are 3 basic needs for the car to start, Fuel, air, and spark. Figure out witch one your missing, and try to narrow it down from there.

[180fan]

tps or MAFS is my guess.

[Hijacker]

even if the TPS were fried, the car would still start. Same with the MAFS. Without either, the car will start, but it'll be in limp home mode.

[180fan]

When my motor originally started, it was a MAFS issue, it would turn but wouldn't stay on. I'd keep the MAFS as a possibility

[ItzGenX]

Yes indeed, I would say the MAF. It has happened to me before, had to unplug the maf to start the car. Another problem that could cause this is a fuel pump or relay problem. My FP relay wasn't staying on before so the car would start off of primed pressure then as pressure drops the engine dies. My friend's car had a similar fuel issue, but his was a weak fuel pump that couldn't feed the motor, so it slowly stalled also.

[180crafter]

I have spark fuel and air, So thats not it, thanks.

Its not melted wires... I did that hassle already. (actually if anyone knows of a place that will clean up my harness in South FL, let me know.).

The MAF? Damn. Im gogint o unplug it and see if that helps. I unplugged the TPS and no help. I will go back on morrow morn and see what happens. Hopefully it will start soon.

Damn... Ive got a 300zx MAF... thats going to rape my pocket.

[IanS]

Yuri at wiring specialties will do harness repair, he is a nico sponsor and Ive heard nothing but good things about them, my harness should be back from there somtime next week. Id say check your fuel pump and such, the relay could be fried.

[180crafter]

Yuri at wiring specialties will do harness repair, he is a nico sponsor and Ive heard nothing but good things about them, my harness should be back from there somtime next week. Id say check your fuel pump and such, the relay could be fried.

Actually... Yuri originally did my harness. Top notch. Not only that, but the most helpful bastard in the world. The only one who steered me correctly at my car.

Here are some updates. Maybe you can chime in Yuri.

Fuel pumpo and relay are good. Ive got fuel. Trust me, it sprayed in my face. Spark.... Im not so sure. I do have some spark, but I am suspecting that one or more of my coil packs might be dead... along with this.



Im guessing this means that I have a dead MAF.... Great.

Anyone else wanna chime in?

[Nismo_Freak]

0 Volts is completely dead.

I would double check your wiring for the Z MAF first.

Then test the pins on the MAF itself for operation.

Unplugging your MAF should get the engine to start.

Coilpacks are easy to test too. Just test them like you'd test a spark plug, look for a good blue / purple spark, or you can go into the PFC and individually test them and listen for clicking.

Well at least on most engine managements you can do that.

[Luke]

Stupid question, but have you checked your wiring for the Z32 MAFS? (assuming this was after your harness was professionally done)

EDIT: Doh, you beat me to it!

[180crafter]

0 Volts is completely dead.

I would double check your wiring for the Z MAF first.

Then test the pins on the MAF itself for operation.

Unplugging your MAF should get the engine to start.

Coilpacks are easy to test too. Just test them like you'd test a spark plug, look for a good blue / purple spark, or you can go into the PFC and individually test them and listen for clicking.

Well at least on most engine managements you can do that.

about the MAF.... Well.... It was working completly fine before the electrical stuff. I will double check it anyways.

As you can see... Im useing the FC datalogic... I dont know if it has that funtctionality though

Oh and i removed it, and it still didnt start.
Modified by 180crafter at 1:52 PM 5/11/2005