Forged Internals?!

[Red93coupe]

Well from what I've read the CA's came with forged internals, so I was wondering after I do a full rebuild on my ca, I'm not putting CP pistons in right now I don't have the money, but I'm putting in a cometic headgasket, arp head studs ,and putting brand new lifters in etc.. How much boost will I be able to run, without mentioning anything about turbo size, just as is?

[new200guy]

zerothread/230677

read that. to be honost though...turbo size will make a difference on how much boost you can run. read the above post though and that may help you out with the answers you are looking for.

[float_6969]

The CA pistons are cast aluminum, not forged. The rods and crank are forged, but if you plan on high revs, the rods will need replaced or modified for larger rod bolts.

AFAIK, the highest HP anybody has taken a stock CA block to is around 350hp with out any problems.

I would be less worried about things like the HG, Head studs, and lifters and more worried about things like exhaust, intake, gauges, injectors, fuel pump, etc.

Have you read through all of the FAQ? There is a lot of info in there that will answer most of your questions.

zerothread/136061

[Red93coupe]

The CA pistons are cast aluminum, not forged. The rods and crank are forged, but if you plan on high revs, the rods will need replaced or modified for larger rod bolts.

AFAIK, the highest HP anybody has taken a stock CA block to is around 350hp with out any problems.

I would be less worried about things like the HG, Head studs, and lifters and more worried about things like exhaust, intake, gauges, injectors, fuel pump, etc.

Have you read through all of the FAQ? There is a lot of info in there that will answer most of your questions.

zerothread/136061

Well thanks, I already have a bigger fuel pump, I was thinking about putting my friends DSM 440cc injectors in and putting a chip in the ECU, and then running a SAFC?? Is that good for around at least three hundred horse, or is more needed thats all I want is from 280-300hp!

[r34 gtr]

Unless you plan on really, really high fuel pressure, I would get some larger injectors. 550cc should do you proud, but expect to upgrade again if you decide to persue more horsepower than 300. Make sure the tune youve got on that chip is a good one and the safc should do, but dont expect to do it with just the safc. You should go for an adjustable FPR too, as the stocker could be inadequate around there, though its not for sure. most people's arent up to the task, and neither was mine.

Ive heard a lot more power than 350 on a stock CA. I dont know where I saw it, but I remember someone making sick power on the stock bottom end. Ive seen several UK guys make upwards of 450. I wouldnt reccomend chasing this though unless yuo have one hell of a good idea on what you are doing, and a stand alone to boot.

[Liquid_Neon]

The CA pistons are cast aluminum, not forged. The rods and crank are forged, but if you plan on high revs, the rods will need replaced or modified for larger rod bolts.

like 9000 or above on a constant basis.... crazy race drift-mobiles!vroom!

[r34 gtr]

uh....okay?

[Liquid_Neon]

what? its true!

we dont need to keep scaring ppl into thinking they need new rod bolts. and i figured i would add a touch of insanity.... vroom!

[The_Chosen_One]

what? its true!

we dont need to keep scaring ppl into thinking they need new rod bolts. and i figured i would add a touch of insanity.... vroom!

You better watch out, keep saying that and Dee will pistol whip your ***

[r34 gtr]

Sorry, I just couldnt understand what you said. I prefer sentences, which (just fyi) you are not supposed to start with "and."

[Liquid_Neon]

Sorry, I just couldnt understand what you said. I prefer sentences, which (just fyi) you are not supposed to start with "and."

lies and slander! I always make perfect sense

and is a perfectly legit way to start a sentance, like this one.

disclaimer: im just trying to add a smile to ur face, nothing else

[MeanGreenS13]

The CA pistons are cast aluminum, not forged. The rods and crank are forged, but if you plan on high revs, the rods will need replaced or modified for larger rod bolts.

AFAIK, the highest HP anybody has taken a stock CA block to is around 350hp with out any problems.

I would be less worried about things like the HG, Head studs, and lifters and more worried about things like exhaust, intake, gauges, injectors, fuel pump, etc.

Have you read through all of the FAQ? There is a lot of info in there that will answer most of your questions.

zerothread/136061

since DEE hasnt chimed in yet, I WILL

CA18DET, Forged Rods, Forged Crank, Cast Pistons...

SO WHAT! thats what i say... after seeing dee's car, pushing nearly 400whp and 8000+ rpm on STOCK BOTTOM END, i call BS to all the existing 350whp rumors.

350hp is jsut a number that someone put out there.

The biggest thing with a CA is being easy with timing and making sure the tune is solid.

ARP Studs for Head and Main, Stock Rod Bolts, Cometic Gasket with fresh rings, bearings seals etc, should be PLENTY safe past 500whp. As long as your tune is right.

dont listen to rumors. I got this straight from DEE and he has way more CA experience than anyone on here that i know of. Dont read into numbers, only facts provided by known users and abusers...

[kapower06]

I'll let you know how pauter rods, weisco slugs, 1000cc injectors, an SDS em3-4f and 28psi from a gt3076r goes. That should prove that with forged goods the ca is capable of big numbers...

[dash]

u really can't say what ca18DET stock pistons can take without actually seeing them make the power and live. Best people to ask would be those who've tuned lotsa hi output setups, like Dr. Drift, Jez, APT, ND etc..

Most folks don't wanna risk a motor to find out if 500hp is possible, and to briefly hit it once on a dyno still doesn't mean u won't experience meltdown even on the drive home, let alone sustained use.

Best not to 'fill in the blanks with assuptions'.

Some toyota 4AG owners have bounced 30psi off stock supercharged pistons/rods. One recorded 500+ wringing out an ebay T-70 @29psi.

Drift tuned a ca18DE that was turbocharged, again with an ebay T-70. Stock DE pistons were "modified" to lower compression a bit.12psi produced something impressive like 235kw

No need to 'guess' what a forged bottom end is good for. 5-650hp; teamnissan, jez, bren, bigtone & more recently Mobne who beats the snot out of his 497hp/GT35r ca18... captured in numerous videos.

Anything u wanna know about a ca18 has already be done

[float_6969]

I got the 350hp number based on the last that I knew about Dee's stock CA. I didn't know that he had gotten it up to 400whp.

I'm sure the UK guys have pushed the limits of this motor much farther than we have.

As was stated, just because it can do it once, doesn't mean, "it can handle it".

A member that is no longer with us (RIP Paul) Had a stock bottom end CA that he shifted at 9K regularly. He went out and started it one morning and it cracked a ringland.

As far as revs and rods are concerned, there is little that is stressed more than your rods when you rev the motor out. I kept my rods when I rebuilt my motor, but I never planned on running it to 9K either.

If you want to run your motor that high on stock rods, have at it. It's your motor. It will probably be fine. But you'll be kicking yourself if it's not...

[boost_boy]

I've concluded that healthy CA can easily withstand around 400ish whp for daily use, but let's face the fact that no one (not even me) drives around at full throttle all day everyday, so technically we'll never know because those are realistic driving conditions in the U.S. anyway. One of my customers drove around on over 400whp on pump gas daily in his S13 with CA and when I opened up his engine because someone told him he cracked a ringland, I bet my reputation and whatever it would've taken to convince that his source was full of garbage and to our dismay, I was correct with pistons looking as good as new. Tuning is the key here folks.

If you tune for high hp, you're obviously putting the engine on the brink especially if you've never tuned a CA for high Hp. And as for videos, it is cool to see others developing this little motor, but most never share the destruction they've encountered or be totally truthful about the evolution of their engine (ie bigger bore, stroke, ete, etc ). All of the engines I've built, tuned or help sold carried the stock bore, but some had some head work, cams, valve springs, and maybe some CP slugs. **Notice all the work done to the head and very little to the bottom end** That's where to start if you want more performance. All the disclaimers about the headgaskets letting go at 15psi, rod bolts stretching, the CA bottom is good 300hp before you need to upgrade and whatever is all crap. Most people that have experienced these issues broke some of the rules associated with getting good performance out of the CA such as: High boost on the stock engine management/fuel system, winding-up the boost on an inefficient turbo (revert back to the latter), running excessive timing to get a few more ponies because they've done it on some honda engine before with success, etc, etc, etc..........You all get where I'm going with this, I hope. There's no skating up-hill when it comes to performance , but many still try and many still fail. Check out my sig ! I've gotten the opportunity to sit back and watch this forum and almost hand pick those who would sell their lumps because most don't listen and that's cool too (it's not my money) .

Dee

[MeanGreenS13]

+1 dee,

[91rs13]

I've concluded that healthy CA can easily withstand around 400ish whp for daily use, but let's face the fact that no one (not even me) drives around at full throttle all day everyday, so technically we'll never know because those are realistic driving conditions in the U.S. anyway.

Dee

So not to put words in your mouth Dee---but if a CA was used in a High RPM environment --say Track days and Time trials --you would recommend replacing the stock rods with Good Aftermarket ones ( Pauter etc) if doing a rebuild?

[Liquid_Neon]

After saying that dee, "hand picking who u thought would sell their car". Can I ask you what you thought when I contacted you over a year ago about a det in my pulsar nx? Hopefully by now i've proved I will not quit, no matter how much money and hours ive spent.

Be blunt, I can take it.

[MeanGreenS13]

So not to put words in your mouth Dee---but if a CA was used in a High RPM environment --say Track days and Time trials --you would recommend replacing the stock rods with Good Aftermarket ones ( Pauter etc) if doing a rebuild?

i have PERSONALLY seen dee shifting well past 8000RPM and bouncing his car off a 2step at 7000-7500rpm... stock rods are plenty strong for 500hp. Have you ever seen a stock CA rod? they are stupid beefy!

[91rs13]

Yes I have seen a stock rod. looks do not mean everything I was looking for an opinion from someone we all know --knows his stuff.

My car rarely sees the street --I do mostly track stuff and have not broken the motor yet --BUT --since winter is coming and I put off rebuilding the motor last year ( and now have a spare motor in the garage) --I wanted some advise. My cheap side says go with stock rods. But if Dee feels for constant high RPM usage that aftermaket forgies are the better way to go --I will. I am a lousy mechanic, but have learned it is always better to do it the right way--and in the long runs ends up beaing cheaper.

Sorry for the thread jack Red 93 Coupe---now back to you regular programming.

[MeanGreenS13]

you did not mention that at first. If its a straight up race car, then definitely build it as strong as possible, Pauter rods, CP 9:1 pistons jun cams etc would be my way to go, everyone has their own choices tho.

[91rs13]

you did not mention that at first. If its a straight up race car, then definitely build it as strong as possible, Pauter rods, CP 9:1 pistons jun cams etc would be my way to go, everyone has their own choices tho.

Sorry about that --I have trouble expressing myself sometimes. Calling it a "racecar" would be a little extreme. It has a roll bar, no cage --and it will see some street duty--but very little--that is one of the reasons I threw this out there.

Thanks

[MeanGreenS13]

my car doesnt have a roll bar... YET =) itll have an 8pt drag cage soon tho!

[91rs13]

Well now that we are off topic

You will love what the Rollbar/Cage does to the S13 Chassis. I used to get a lot of flex in the rear of the car--now I can actually adjust the suspension and get it to do what I want!

[MeanGreenS13]

yup we are DEFINITELY off topic as hell now... lord i apologize! anyway

i actually took the time and boxed in teh factory subframe for strength and put a cross brace across with built in driveshaft loop in the front, it really stiffened the chassis up, but im waiting for some more money to get the cage half built, pretty much gonna be a hideaway setup with stock interio still intact, and ive got 2 RCI Highback race seats to go up front with 5 pt harnesses so i can remove the factory crap seatbelt systems... im spending way too much money on my car... to be running stock bottom end, but ive got a point to prove to some locals who thing 1.8 is just "too small" lol

time to get back on topic, yes the CA has factory forged rods and crank with cast pistons... oh wait, i already said that once... silly me

[91rs13]

OK--I will resist the urge to tell you how much better the race seats with 5/6/7 pt belts are than the stockers. And if you are tall --then you can mount the seat to a fixed brace and get head room for your helmet! ---No I will not tell you how much better that was --since it is off topic.

Time to save the $$ for some good internals.

[MeanGreenS13]

lol ill take a 5 pt harnes sover that lousy excuse for an automatic seatbelt the s13 has any day... ive never hit anything but i dont want to know how well the auto belts DONT work in the event that i do lol