Finally Drove my RB25/S13

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
gomer23
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After a looooong 10month project I was finally able to drive my RB25 for the first real time over the weekend. I still think there are a couple issues but I will get to that later. Feels great to just be driving the 240 again. And I love the sound of the motor....and turbo (i am a ricer i know haha)

I did a couple of quick pulls on it and it just doesnt feel like its pulling as hard as it should. It was hitting around 9-10lbs of boost (not sure what RPM though) Not sure if the O2 or MAF or something like that would cause it not to pull as hard.

Then the other issue is the Tach and Speedo not working. Now I know they wont read correctly but I have them both wired to the ECU correctly and neither of them work. The gas gauge works so I assume the fuse is good (unless there is another one) I guess I will have to keep messing with this one.


gomer23
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Also are there any sensors on the transmission that have to be hooked up. I have the speed sensor hooked up and thats it right now. Excuse my ignorance if there is something else that HAS to be hooked up that I an not aware of. If there is anything that needs to be hooked up, could anyone help me do that, as in what lower KA wires go to the RB transmission wires.

gawdzilla
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no, nothing else is "important" really.reverse light doesnt do anythingneutral sensor might affect your idle some.

Darius
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Neutral position switch has to be hooked up. The reverse switch needs to be hooked up if you want reverse lights.

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Carl H
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lol reason it feels like it isnt pulling hard is becasuse it isnt!should have stuck with the rb20, its loads more fun to drive :p

gomer23
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Do you know off hand the colors that need to match up from the RB to the KA harness? My transmission harnesses were kinda hacked when I got the motor. Thanks for the input

RB20DETodd
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Carl H wrote:lol reason it feels like it isnt pulling hard is becasuse it isnt!should have stuck with the rb20, its loads more fun to drive :p
i like rev!

Yellow4g63
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It not pulling like you think it should could be because you are caught up in the RB25 hype? OR you have a bad CAS so check your engine codes it will tell you if you do.

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Chaos the Xile
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YEa most people think that the "RB" name means that your car is gonna pull like a 1000HP Supra or something/// Well not with out work, you got a 250HP car. They do pull hard though.

Yellow4g63
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So true, I rem going from my DSM to my RB240 and I was like weak sauce. I knew it was going to be slower because of the stock turbo and intercooler and way less boost. Tho sometimes you could be right it not pulling like it should. Check those codes to make sure everything is OK.

gomer23
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Oh yea I know something is up, I am not trying to sound like a ricer or ignorant or anything, I have riden in other RB cars and this doesnt "pull" like theirs did. So I guess its time to do some digging.

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Kansei240sx
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Drive your car untill you hit rev cut so you know what the thing sounds like untill it wont climb revs anymore... Thats the problem with RB25's people dont realize.

I thought my car was slow as hell untill i wired up my SAFC2 and got if for pure analyzing purposes for RPM's, and other sensor readings, and let me tell you i've been shifting at what i thought was 6700 was actually 5000, so i hit up 6900, and it pulls hard as ****.

I just dynoed my RB25DET on 8psi, and on a boost leak that sprung out around the FMIC pipes, and the bov, and also the gasket around it that blew, i made 236 rwhp, and around 240tq with a solid 11.1 afr across the board. I got back home, fixed the boost leaks, and im getting a new BOV, but i fixed the air leaks around it, and oh my god... It is so godamn fast and pulls so rediculously hard i cant believe it.

Its like my friends SR20DET, his car feels and pulls harder than my RB25, but every time we race, i pull him so many cars. Its his lightweight flywheel that makes me feel like its going becuase it builds revs faster, but the RB25 just makes a ton more power and Torque than the RB20 and SR20. As far as im concerned there isnt any HYPE about the RB25... if anything thats to be said for RB20's with all the people i see ****in driving those here in these parts... i mean theres more RB20's than SR's its rediculous.

Yellow4g63
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So what your sayin is that the Rb25 can never lose? hahaha

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rustbucket
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In regards to your tach/speedo, is the ground wire hooked up? You could be getting the signal, but it might not be making it through the gauges.

What differential do you have? The gear ratio makes a pretty big difference in acceleration, seems like alot of people forget that. The stock R33 manual xmission lsd comes with 4.23s, I cant remember what all the others car's R200s come with.

armysweitzer
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check your timing.

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Chaos the Xile
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Kansei240sx wrote:Drive your car untill you hit rev cut so you know what the thing sounds like untill it wont climb revs anymore... Thats the problem with RB25's people dont realize.

I thought my car was slow as hell untill i wired up my SAFC2 and got if for pure analyzing purposes for RPM's, and other sensor readings, and let me tell you i've been shifting at what i thought was 6700 was actually 5000, so i hit up 6900, and it pulls hard as ****.

I just dynoed my RB25DET on 8psi, and on a boost leak that sprung out around the FMIC pipes, and the bov, and also the gasket around it that blew, i made 236 rwhp, and around 240tq with a solid 11.1 afr across the board. I got back home, fixed the boost leaks, and im getting a new BOV, but i fixed the air leaks around it, and oh my god... It is so godamn fast and pulls so rediculously hard i cant believe it.

Its like my friends SR20DET, his car feels and pulls harder than my RB25, but every time we race, i pull him so many cars. Its his lightweight flywheel that makes me feel like its going becuase it builds revs faster, but the RB25 just makes a ton more power and Torque than the RB20 and SR20. As far as im concerned there isnt any HYPE about the RB25... if anything thats to be said for RB20's with all the people i see ****in driving those here in these parts... i mean theres more RB20's than SR's its rediculous.
Dude b4 my RB started to leak/loose boost??? (Still haven't figured that out yet...) I had it bumped up to 10lbs, and GODDAMN! That was effin scary! I kicked the *** end out in almost every gear! Gotta love that R33 Diff!

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nizmo zilvia
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Gomer23, congrats!! I bet it feels really really nice!

You should def. check everything around make sure everything else is ok.

Bluefire
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armysweitzer wrote:check your timing.
Yes check your timing...

-BLuefire

Yellow4g63
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Timming and engine codes. Make sure your RB is at full health.

gomer23
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We did check the timing yesterday and..it was on the middle of the 7 lines (not sure if thats 15 or 20 haha) but I think thats where the timing should be so that checked out ok.

I took it to a fellow RB25 owner yesterday and we did a couple pulls on it and all of sudden it started smoking black and a little blue so it is unsure what happened right now. I think the fuel thing is something with the O2 sensor and I'll be finding out where the oil is coming from tonight....sigh.....gotta love project cars huh haha.

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Carl H
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orange mark on the crank pulley is 0 degrees then to the right every notch is 5 degrees...set it to 15 and go from there, the black smoke is proly the classic rb25 R&R (rich and retard).

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Chaos the Xile
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Carl H wrote:orange mark on the crank pulley is 0 degrees then to the right every notch is 5 degrees...set it to 15 and go from there, the black smoke is proly the classic rb25 R&R (rich and retard).
Haha tell me about it R&R no **** mine does that like hell, needs a tune!

gomer23
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Carl H wrote:orange mark on the crank pulley is 0 degrees then to the right every notch is 5 degrees...set it to 15 and go from there, the black smoke is proly the classic rb25 R&R (rich and retard).
Hmm so stock it is set to 15 degrees? If so then yes it is R&R because my friend when he checked my timing did retard it a degree or too. So thats probably not helping. Well good to know this might not be as bad of a situation that I though. *crosses fingers*

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300Plus
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maybe your turbo is dying thus the smoke and the low power ?

gomer23
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Well the turbo I have is a Turbnetics T3/T4 50trim that I bought from someone on here and it was rebuilt only 9000miles ago and I have driven the car maybe 50miles....however I wont rule it out since the smoke did contain a blue tint to it haha. But if thats all I need to fix I wont be as mad as I was on monday. haha

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Vkoslak
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have you upgraded fuel pump? If so, have you upgraded fuel pressure regulator? I felt the rb20 was slow until I put a nismo fpr on and set the pressure correctly. It really woke up the motor. Then I broke the ceramic turbo, but it was a good excuse to upgrade :D

gomer23
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Yes I have a Walbaro 255. I have not gotten the Nismo FPR yet because I wanted to get it running good before I messed with that at all. That is on my list for the next thing to get though ha.

Yellow4g63
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Could be the rings in the motor, With a T3/T4 on that motor the car should feel fast even if your at 8psi. Have you done a leak down test yet? or comp test?

98birdls1
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gomer23 wrote:Yes I have a Walbaro 255. I have not gotten the Nismo FPR yet because I wanted to get it running good before I messed with that at all. That is on my list for the next thing to get though ha.
There's your problem. Get an adjustable FPR, you're blowing smoke cause you're super rich and it feels slow cause it isn't running right. Like said earlier R&R!!!!

An adjustable FPR should be just as mandatory as an upgraded fuel pump on these swaps.

Luke

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Carl H
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wait, you have an upgraded turbo on this motor but no form of management?im sorry man but thats just effin retarded and asking for trouble, stock computer and injectors dont take too well to an upgraded turbo with no management.you are proly hitting the airflow limiter which causes mad fuel dumpage and ignition retard, saying you had a larger turbo on there earlier would have helped too.


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