Neutral Position Switch has to either be hooked up or bypassed. The wire going to it needs to be grounded if you're not using it. I don't how your ECU didn't fry itself without that grounded.Darius wrote:Neutral position switch has to be hooked up. The reverse switch needs to be hooked up if you want reverse lights.
I was just going by what local RB people had told me. In hindsight, yes i figured i needed something but I was going on the information I had.Carl H wrote:wait, you have an upgraded turbo on this motor but no form of management?im sorry man but thats just effin retarded and asking for trouble, stock computer and injectors dont take too well to an upgraded turbo with no management.you are proly hitting the airflow limiter which causes mad fuel dumpage and ignition retard, saying you had a larger turbo on there earlier would have helped too.
KAestate wrote:
Neutral Position Switch has to either be hooked up or bypassed. The wire going to it needs to be grounded if you're not using it. I don't how your ECU didn't fry itself without that grounded.
Reverse switch is optional but suggested.
Perhaps I overstepped my bounds here. I did a KA24DE swap into a 510 and the car wouldn't start and the ECu was throwing a bunch of codes until I bypassed the Neutral Position Switch. After looking at the foldout for the KA I found that even though i wasn't using the NPS I still had to ground the wire going to it as it acted as an ECu ground. I guess it's different on an RB. My bad.gawdzilla wrote:What? are you serious?
if you dont hook it up, your ECU will simply think you're in gear all the time, and your idle will be a little off, MAYBE your IAC wont be working right either but thats not gomer's problem. Please explain how this even has a remote chance of frying the ECU.
If you ground it, your ECU will think you're in neutral all the time, so it MIGHT affect your load maps but I highly doubt it.