So my 15yr old son and I are building a drift car together for him. This will be his first street car but he has a
few years racing already so I'm not scared to give him some power. He gets the whole Spiderman "great power thing".
I'd whoop his @$$ if he goes Japanese on me and drifts all over town.

Somewhat limited budget so keep that in mind.

I'm good with the bodywork, paint, most of suspension, electrical, 4pt harness/roll-bar safety, and most
other things. Just the turbo part of the build has me a little lost. I've built plenty of engines but all N/A.

I have read so many posts and stickys on here that I'm starting to get mixed info. You know, that
point when you think you have it figured out but then someone else says something contradictory? lol

So here is what we are planning based on what we have researched. WDRacing has be very helpful, so thanks!

Rebuilding the KA24E engine with new bearings, pins, gaskets and such, but not changing any major parts except new cast pistons.

Tial F38 Wastegate (was free)
CXRacing 31"x11"x3" 3" Inlet & Outlet Intercooler and Piping
Godspeed Turbo T04E .50 A/R Comp, .63A/R Turbine (Running 6-8psi to start)
Turbo Insulation/Heat Shield if needed
Godspeed Cast Turbo Manifold Top Mount
LC1 Wideband 02 Sensor and Gauge
Walbro 255lph
OBX 8:1 FMU
NGK BKR7ES-11 Spark Plugs

Stage 2 - (Maybe 3-4 months later)
Nistune 1 board and software license
550cc Top Feed Injectors, Stock Rail
Turbo Insulation/Heat Shield if needed
XTD Stage 3 Clutch Kit (might do this when rebuilding engine)
MAF Z32
Bump Turbo to 10-12psi

So I have a few questions I would really appreciate your help on.

1. Do I need an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator? And if I do, I presume I don't need it until stage 2 correct?
Is there a brand that is affordable and reliable? I don't need cheap, just affordable. Seems like everyone
recommends the Walbro 255lph for fuel pump so something along those lines of cost/reliability for the regulator.

2. 550cc Injectors. I've read that RX7 89-92 Injectors are a drop in match. Is there a model number I should
be looking for or something? Denso R-093? There seems to be so many different options. Kinda lost here on this!
We can't spend more than $200 for these. 550cc should be enough for this setup right?

3. BOV. Is there a certain brand here that isn't $120+ that we can get away with? Seems crazy that they have
some for $26 on eBay and then the TiAL QR 50mm is $275! I'd like to be around the $60-80 range if anyone
can suggest one. I think my son wants to do Atmospheric instead of Recirculating setup if that makes a
difference. I know there is some extra work and a trick to it, but he's 15yrs old. He wants to sound all loud
and crap too. haha

4. Downpipe. Is there a downpipe that we can get that will fit the Godspeed Cast Turbo Manifold without having
to be all custom? Don't have ABS or A/C if that matters. Maybe I should just call Godspeed directly for their advice?

5. 3" exhaust all the way? Not doing any CAT or anything emissions on the car since we don't have to worry about that here.

6. What do I use for boost control? Is there a standard brand/setup that everyone uses? I'm not talking like a MSD box
or anything like that, just some type of PSI knob. Any suggestions?

7. What about a rev limiter? My son suggested a Bee-R Rev Limiter but I think he just wants some flame shooting action.
Either way is this a good idea to keep this engine from exploding on him? I wouldn't worry about it if he was in his road
course car, but a drift car is a little different I would imagine. If needed, can I wait until Stage 2 for this $300 purchase?

8. Since we'll be getting rid of the OBX when we get the Nistune, can we run stock injectors and be ok with 8:1 for now
or should we get 6:1? Or should we get the 550cc in Stage 1? Seems like I read that getting 550cc would be stupid unless
getting the ECU tuned alone with it. Just want to make sure on both of these questions here.

For now that is all I can think of.I don't want to waste money on anything stupid here, but I hope you can see I don't
mind spending a little bit on my son. I just have my own car projects that also take some serious cash! ('52 Split Window VW Bug)

I really really appreciate any help I can get here! Thanks for letting me lurk the past 2 months!

Fetam
(From the land of polygamy)

When it comes to most parts, such as wastegate and bov, it is a good idea to spend a few extra $ for some quality parts since they can directly effect your turbo and what not. Tial, greddy, pretty much any name brand. 3 inch is good the whole way, but that sort of also depends on how you want it to sound. Pushing only 10-12lbs, you do not need anything extreme, and can more go for the exhaust note you wish. I prefer the HKS High Power, but it is pricey. As for the Bee-R, if you go with a good ECU solution, such as an enthalpy or megasquirt, it will have built in rev-limiter, so that will not be a problem, and it is adjustable. 8.5:1 pistons are fairly normal, but I have never even heard of 6:1's. Lowest I have ever seen is straight 8:1. From what I remember, as far as injectors, it is best to take the CC of the injector and subtract about 100-to 150 from the number, and that is about the max HP you will get out of it safely. So with 550's you should get 400, but the more padding you have the better, so pushing 350 is better just so you do not over work the parts.

As for boost control, it is not a huge deal on the control itself, but having a good waste gate is important. Definitely recommend Tial, as they are tried and true. You can set a manual boost controller to say 10lbs, but if the turbo overboosts and you have a cheap wastegate that doesnt work properly you will blow your motor. Some people build their own manual boost controllers. They are cheap and easy, just remember, a good wastegate!

I believe the most HP you can push out of a stock bottom end KA is 400hp (but that is extremely pro tuned, and do not expect it to be a DD) so expect 300 fairly reliably on stock internals, maybe 325.

Bov is not quite as important, but I would honestly stay clear of ebay stuff. some people run no BoV at all, but it is not great. Not having one makes a sexy "flutter sound" that people like, but it is actually very damaging to the turbo, especially its longevity. imaging spinning at 100krpm, then having to isntantly spin the opposite direection, and then back and forth as such a few times >_<.

Single cam KA (KA24E) is a nice motor and a bit more low end and TQ then the KA24DE, but with all KA's, the most important thing is the tune, 100%. It will make or break the motor, no matter what parts you have. I would suggest a good felpro head gasket and ARP head studs with any KAT build.

I am by no means extremely knowledgeable in KA-T info, but hope my stuff helps. I am in process of building mine for about 20lbs on a megasquirt ecu. Cant wait. : )

Definitely spend some time on this site: Ka-t.org / Here is there KA24E section.

http://www.ka-t.org/viewforum.php?f=5&s ... 0d9a7cebd3

Sorry I missed this thread, I've been out of town. I'll sit down and give you a more detailed reply later today, I just wanted to post something so you wouldn't think everyone was ignoring this.

Real quick, I would never go under 8:1 compression. There just isn't any reason for that. The efficiency goes right into the toilet below 8:1.

WD

I wasn't talking compression. I was asking about the FMU. 8:1 seems like what you recommended before but another thread you talked about even going to 6:1 for an FMU.

We appreciate it!

Oh...guess that's what I get for skimming...lol. Yup, a 6:1 would work nicely. The 8:1 is overly rich at boost onset. But it provides a bit of knock protection by being overly rich. So it's a personal choice really.

I need to go back through this when I have more time, but first things that come to mind are-

BOV- I always put in a plug for Mitsubishi DSM metal bov's(used ebay ~$50) and Evo IX metal bov's(as much as 150 new). They are oem quality, reliable, hold a decent amount of boost (20+) and are smooth operating (some stiff BOV's jerk the engine/buck when you're modulating the throttle from boost to part throttle). I have an EvoIX bov on my ka-t and I really like it. **I'd also recirculate it if you'll be using a MAF type tuning setup and Vent to atmosphere if using a MAF-less (Speed Density) setup.**

Wideband- I've used the Innovate LC-1 and I swapped to an AEM wideband and have never looked back. The LC-1 was always having to get calibrated (partially my fault for letting the battery die) and I always had issues conencting it to my laptop. The AEM on the otherhand auto-calibrates which is awesome and connects to my laptop pretty easy.

Boost controllers can be had cheap from places like enjuku http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/%2 ... oller.html, just try and find reviews before buying.

Injectors- be wary of buying used injectors(if you go that route), if they get left out to dry they rust and seize and stop working. It would be a good idea to send them out to say Deatschworks or Fuel Injector Clinic to get flow tested and cleaned.

Clutch- if possible, use a white bunny clutch, I don't know if they fit KA-E's but if they do, they're affordable and hold a good amount of TQ.

Good luck!!!

Here's a link for Summit and all the adjustable regs. I use Summit for as much as I can. I used THIS AFPR on my turbo KA. Still have it, been in use for about 10 years now. It's not pretty, but it's functional. The next cheapest is an Accel but you'll need to buy fittings for it. Pretty much have to buy fittings for any AFPR though, aside from that MSD unit.

Cheap in-tank 320lph fuel pump. Be a good pump to use with the FMU.

I used a Bosche BOV, but I ran it in a recirculation setup to avoid stalling and idle issues. Like this one. There are some other Bosche valves available that are adjustable and may possibly sound better. But I haven't used them personally.

The easiest way to run a BOV that's vented to the atmosphere is to run the MAF sensor in a blow-thru setup, where it's plumbed into the intake tract between the intercooler and the throttle body. The BOV will be between the intercooler and the turbo.

If you want cheap injectors you'll have to go with used. I'm not sure off the top of my head which ones are drop in. I have the sidefeed type. Make sure you buy high imp injectors or you'll need to wire in a resistor box. You may also need the pigtail and plug from the injector if it doesn't match the KAE harness. I think the stock connector can be modded to fit over the RX7 injector though. It's been a long time since I read up on used injector options. Here's a list of what injectors came in what cars and whether they are high or low impedance.

If you're not buying a kit that includes a downpipe, you'll have to have one fabricated. One of the main reasons I learned how to weld actually.

In stage 1 the FMU is fine. The static compression on the KAE won't even require timing retard as long as you run 91 or better octane fuel and don't exceed 7-8 psi. You can always bump the timing back at the distributor for some added safety.

I have never run a rev limiter.

For boost control I always recommend TurboXS. I've had great experience with them from customer service to product quality. I use a dual stage controller so I can run low boost while daily driving but have more power a toggle switch away. This also allowed me to use water/meth injection during high boost only blasts. Rather than having it on all the time. Methanol isn't cheap. You just start with a cheap bleed valve though. You'll want to read THIS. Definitely worth doing in stg 1.

Water and alcohol injection is also something you should really look into. Nothing keeps detonation away like water injection. Especially considering this motor is going to beat one. If you're interested in water/alky injection I can go into further explanation. I'm pretty knowledgeable on the topic and have built several of my own systems.

Keep asking questions, we'll get them answered for ya.

WD

This is some very helpful information. I really appreciate the time you've taken for my boy and I.

Couple other questions.

For now I use the FMU and then when I get the ECU Tune and Injectors I ditch the FMU and get a Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Or
Do I need the FMU and FPR right from the beginning? Keep in mind I do have the Walbro 255lph already with stock injectors.


Also...I was reading through this very helpful thread here new-guy-wanting-to-learn-to-tune-his-ca ... 79595.html
and I had a questions about the MAF Z32. Can I install that before the ECU Tune or do I wait until I'm ready for the Tune?

Thanks a bunch!

The FMU works in-conjunction with the stock FPR. AN adjustable FPR is always a good idea imho. This can be upgraded at anytime, with any combo. The FMU is routed after the factory FPR, so it's a full stand alone item.

You can't upgrade your injectors or MAF without getting an ECU that is tuned for those specific parts. So if you get an N62 MAF, the ecu tune has to be for the N62 MAF.

Glad to help!