Exhaust to fit BD turbo kit?

[civiceater]

Is there an aftermarket turbo back exhaust to fit the BD kit (besides their own)? Or do I have to get an aftermarket exhaust for the NA KA and then cut and fit? BTW it's for an S13. Thanks.

[hysteria]

if you buy their downpipe chances are that their exhaust will be the one to go with...

i made my own exhaust and downpipe. you could do this also, or get a muffler shop to do it for you if you're not good at welding.

most of the time tuners make exhaust systems unique to their manifolds and what not, so the BD exhaust probably reflects the design and placement of their manifold and turbo...

downpipe flanges from differing turbo setups are different... lengths, bends, etc are all pretty unique to the company usually... just make sure it all lines up and the flanges are correct and all and you're in good shape.

personally if i bought a turbo setup from a certain company i would buy their exhaust also, or build my own... of course you can always put a different tip on it, but the actual design is going to be better fit most of the time if it is the same company as your turbo kit.

[TheOne]

i though BD's downpipe was made to be connected to the cat.....cause i'd relly like to get that turbo + 1 of those RS-R exmag catback's

[TrunkMonkey]

most of the time tuners make exhaust systems unique to their manifolds and what not

not true. just about every bolt on turbo system on the market is set up so that the downpipe meets where almost every aftermarket catback would begin.

-demetrius

[DammitBobby]

No the BD downpipe does not connect to your existing cat. You can buy a cat back aftermarket exhaust and get a muffler shop to connect your downpipe to your exhaust. I paid 90 bucks but it included them reinstalling my exhaust system and connecting a pipe from the downpipe to the exhaust minus the cat. It really isn`t a big deal to have done. BD is offering you an alternative exhaust system that will connect from the downpipe all the way to the back. I don`t know anybody else that is offering a complete solution?

[slipnfall]

I'm confused here... does this mean with the BD kit a cat-back will need to be shortened to fit?? Is their DP intentionally different, to push their exhaust systems?

[BadMojo]

I'm confused here... does this mean with the BD kit a cat-back will need to be shortened to fit?? Is their DP intentionally different, to push their exhaust systems?

No, the BD DP (hmmm) would be too short. It works with the BD exhaust, which eliminates the cat and is longer than a normal aftermarket catback exhaust. So, you need to fab up something to connect the short little DP to the exhaust, like rseabrooke mentioned. Someone correct me if I'm wrong?

As for your second question, BD says it was done for performance reasons.

[EXIST tm]

sum this up in one easyline, i contacted bd about it, and they told me it won't fit to the standard exhaust, however, you can get a test pipe to fit the rest of the way. I'm not totally clear if they make the test pipe or not, just contact them..

[Jeff240sx]

It was done so that people who buy a piece of their kit have to buy everything else.Lets have a look at how proprietary the kit is:Downpipe flange: Only works on their turbo. It's a Dodge 5-bolt. Not compatible with Ford 5-bolt, which is the aftermarket standard.Downpipe: Is 6" too long, and kicked to the passenger side, if your intentions were to mate it with a sr20det downpipe.Exhaust: The only exhaust I've seen that's not a cat-back. It mates with the downpipe, omitting the catalytic convertor.

In order to run the downpipe on my turbo and use my sr20det downpipe (for full 3" turbo back exhaust and high-flow cat), it's cost me $30 for a ford 5-bolt flange. $20 for a 2.5"->3" transition. Their 3" downpipe is welded over the 2.5" turbine outlet hole, leaving 1/2" dead area up against the flange. This is ok on the dodge 5-bolt, but it's too big for a ford 5-bolt, so the transition is necessary. Then, their flange needs to get cut off, and the downpipe sectioned and rotated in order to get room for the transition. That was $60. Next up will be sectioning, removing 5-6" of length, and rotating the lower 3-bolt flange to mate with my downpipe. I anticipate another $50.So.. the total to get their downpipe to work with my stuff: $160 + the original pipe. I realize that it would have been cheaper to build a new pipe.. but only once I was $100 into this pipe already.

Now, going by speculation, the exhaust will not want to mate nicely to a NA car. The stock header ends where a sr20det downpipe begins, which is why it's a normal place to build a downpipe to. But, the BD exhaust is going to be to the right, and 6" too high. The height can't be cut much, because it's on a bend judging by the pictures. Unless you cut and section the bend itself, which would severely restrict flow. Also, getting the exhaust to go to towards the driver's side would just be adding a section of pipe to the diagonal. That's not hard, but that angle looks to be a dealbreaker. Probably the best thing to do there is buy a 180* U-bend in stainless, and cut off their angle, and weld up the front mating part. That'd be $40 pipe and probably $60 or so in welding.

Someone needed to guinnea pig this setup on a custom kit, and it was apparently me. The manifold is nice.. some people have said otherwise (the welder I worked on my downpipe with). He had some issues with the 16gauge steel, and said the collector wasn't long enough for the pulses to merge. The steel thinness won't be an issue with a ceramic coating on the inside and outside of the manifold.

Just wanted to let people know what they were getting into if they were looking into using some pieces from Boost Designs, and other pieces from a current kit, or making custom changes.PJ is a good guy, and his kit is great (minus the no-name wastegate and FMU). But it's just a gigantic ***** to work his stuff into existing kits. These little issues have kept my car immobile for 5 weeks (shipping things, getting time from school during my 18 credit schedule, ect).

Also, a headsup for the stainless steel. It appears to be high-carbon stainless, which makes it susceptable to rusting. Had I known this, the stuff would have never spend a night on my car outside without ceramic coating.-Jeff

[EXIST tm]

well jeff, amen is all i have to say, you saved me a lot of trouble, i was going to buy that manifold, but i think i'll go with a revhard one instead.

[DammitBobby]

Your kidding? Does revhard make a kit that connects to your current exhaust? Most aftermarket downpipes that connect to your existing exhaust cost at least 100 bucks or more. I went to a muffler shop with my BRM exhaust sitting in the back of my seat. In less then one hour I drove off with everything connected together with my choice of by passing the cat. Oh yea they had in stock the flange they needed to connect to the BD downpipe. They made a 3 inch pipe to connect to my BRM 2.5 exhaust, for 90 bucks. For 500bucks you get a manifold and a downpipe with the O2 bung. On top of that PJ is a sponsor for NICO! That supports this wonderful board that we use for FREE!

[slipnfall]

That's what I thought(in a round-about way). It was designed to eliminate the cat. I was just wondering how you would go about fitting a cat/test pipe w/out cutting down the actual cat-back pipe. I see the next poster cleared some things up as well.

Thx Mojo.-Slip

[hysteria]

i don't know... i mean i've seen a lot of different systems, with the way they bend and how close they are tucked up to the car, etc... sure you can get a lot of exhausts to fit, but they may not fit as well as they should/could...

in addition to this a lot of flanges are different... i swear everyone should just decide on ONE flange, and that's it and everyone has to use that ONE, so you can mix and match if you want...

like it was said above they design the stuff so if you buy one thing, like the down pipe, you have to buy everything else to make it fit the way it should (or you'll be cutting and welding to make things fit the way you want...

anyway, buying a different manifold won't solve your problems.... it's not like the rev hard manifold is going to let you put whatever exhaust you want on there easier... the downpipe flanges and everything else have a big effect on the easy of installation, if you're not doing the welding.

just go with the better manifold and then buy the exhaust you want and take it to a welding/muffler shop... they will make it fit right... if you have a mig welder and a hac saw you could do the work instead. that's what i did.

[Jeff240sx]

Your kidding? Does revhard make a kit that connects to your current exhaust? Most aftermarket downpipes that connect to your existing exhaust cost at least 100 bucks or more. I went to a muffler shop with my BRM exhaust sitting in the back of my seat. In less then one hour I drove off with everything connected together with my choice of by passing the cat. Oh yea they had in stock the flange they needed to connect to the BD downpipe. They made a 3 inch pipe to connect to my BRM 2.5 exhaust, for 90 bucks. For 500bucks you get a manifold and a downpipe with the O2 bung. On top of that PJ is a sponsor for NICO! That supports this wonderful board that we use for FREE!

This seems like random ramblings.. so I'll try to pick it apart.No, RevHard doesn't have a downpipe. I made my downpipe for my revhard (previous to the BD manifold) for ~$100 in parts. I hope an exhaust shop has the flange, because it's a 3" header collector flange. For $550 you get a manifold and downpipe, but that downpipe can only be used with their turbo (Dodge t3 flange, remember?), and their exhaust (unless you modify the pipe hardcore). Don't forget, a muffler shop (most of the time) will crush-bend some mild steel, and mig weld everything together. This.. even in saltless Florida, causes the welds and pipe to rust through, nevermind the fact you have crush bends. The only way I'd ever do that is TIG welding mandrel bent stainless to the pipe.I'm not saying that BD stuff sucks. I personally like their manifold, and it's a big upgrade over the RevHard. However, make your own downpipe. For your sake. Unless you plan on getting their exhaust. I'm not a fan of eliminating the cat.. because sacrificing 2-3hp to really clean up the air is well worth it. Even then, if you're not using their turbo, it'll cost you another $110 to get the flange welded up proper for a standard Ford 5-bolt turbo.-Jeff

[Jeff240sx]

just go with the better manifold and then buy the exhaust you want and take it to a welding/muffler shop... they will make it fit right... if you have a mig welder and a hac saw you could do the work instead. that's what i did.

I'm against MIG welding, as it's prone to rusting at the welds. That's what happened to my first downpipe.To make a downpipe, you need the turbine flange, 3" 3-bolt flange, and a 3" U-bend. Then a chopsaw (mitre saw) and a welder. An o2 sensor bung (or two, and a plug). And a 1.5" pipe and flange for your wastegate if you'd like. A holesaw for a drill for the o2 bung and wg pipe. It's alot of work. Took me an afternoon.-Jeff

[hysteria]

yeah it took me and my friend a little more than 3 days of evening work (7pm-11pm) to do the whole exhaust (from downpipe to tip).

i don't mind using the mig because the rust is not going to cause problems for a while... i mean exhaust systems just rust. that's what they do, and so whenever this one craps out i'll just make another... but i mean it's gonna last a few years. if i go through 2 exhausts in 10 years i can live with that...

i mean at this point my exhaust will probably last just as long as my engine, and when i replace that i'll probably build a new downpipe if i get a different manifold, or maybe just for the hell of it cause it's old and rusty but i don't know. maybe i'll redo the exhaust if i need to... i mean yes it's true that things deteriorate but at the same time you have to consider the time interval over which these things take place... how long do you plan on having your car, what kind of power, etc... all things that need to be taken into consideration.

the way i see it, if you build an exhaust for your car it's going to last the life of the engine easily, provided it's a performance application. even if it's not a performance app chances are that the exhaust will last as long as you want it to, unless you live in salty road land, or whatever other factors you can factor in.

[Jeff240sx]

yeah it took me and my friend a little more than 3 days of evening work (7pm-11pm) to do the whole exhaust (from downpipe to tip).

i don't mind using the mig because the rust is not going to cause problems for a while... i mean exhaust systems just rust. that's what they do, and so whenever this one craps out i'll just make another... but i mean it's gonna last a few years. if i go through 2 exhausts in 10 years i can live with that...

i mean at this point my exhaust will probably last just as long as my engine, and when i replace that i'll probably build a new downpipe if i get a different manifold, or maybe just for the hell of it cause it's old and rusty but i don't know. maybe i'll redo the exhaust if i need to... i mean yes it's true that things deteriorate but at the same time you have to consider the time interval over which these things take place... how long do you plan on having your car, what kind of power, etc... all things that need to be taken into consideration.

the way i see it, if you build an exhaust for your car it's going to last the life of the engine easily, provided it's a performance application. even if it's not a performance app chances are that the exhaust will last as long as you want it to, unless you live in salty road land, or whatever other factors you can factor in.

The exhaust isn't a big rust issue. But I'd definately powder coat or high-temp paint the whole thing. The main issue is right around the turbo. The heat cycling, constant intense temperatures, ect. Those all cause the welds right around the turbo outlet downpipe to rust holes through. It took my car ~18 months to destroy (by rusting completely through the welds) my downpipe at the turbo flange, but the bottom of the downpipe was just rusty. That.. that part is the serious issue and should get ceramic coated.-Jeff

[240sxHitman]

after reading all this i wish some one will make a bolt on turbo for the 91 to 94 kade with a turbo extension and downpipe that can just connect to the cat and an after market exhaust

[boostdesigns.com]

Jeff the flange is not a dodge flange it is a garrett 5 bolt flange the larger one actually that they used on the mercedes benz (M24) turbine section i chose this style flange because you haft to use reducers to mate to the smaller 5 bolt flange where as with style flange you can mate the 3" DP directly to the flange without restrcive reducers and still have enough room to be able to actually tighten the bolts from the flange to the turbine section. the angle of the DP is to be able to fit the 3 inch DP in there, and clear the steering arm. you are dealing with a top mount manifold not an sr20det lower mount so you run into diffrent placement and angles. these motors are not sr20det engines and dont use the same manifolds as the sr, there for thats why the DP does not line up for an sr exhaust, which does not bother me becouse it was never meant to line up for it, again its not an sr20det. i went with flow in mind knowing i was going to produce the exhaust system to compliment the kit. you see thats why i sell complete kits i know all my pieces work with the others in my design i never guarantee placement or fitment when you try to use parts of my kit with parts of another, it was never meant to be done like that. if you want a guarantee fitment and no issues of flow or performance i suggest you buy the complete kit i can not help when you haft to hack or modify to make it adapt to other pieces that it was not designed around. thanks

[WDRacing]

I was under the impression that the 240sx and Silvia/180 used the same cat-back exhaust systems right down to the hangers? In which case the downpipe would have nothing to do with the stock or aftermarket exhaust.

The KA24 uses both upper and lower mount manifolds on both the E and DE.

Every kit is different. The BD kit only works with BD equipment.

WD

[Jeff240sx]

Jeff the flange is not a dodge flange it is a garrett 5 bolt flange the larger one actually that they used on the mercedes benz (M24) turbine section i chose this style flange because you haft to use reducers to mate to the smaller 5 bolt flange where as with style flange you can mate the 3" DP directly to the flange without restrcive reducers and still have enough room to be able to actually tighten the bolts from the flange to the turbine section.

Yes. You do need the 2.5"->3" transition to get the pipe on the smaller Ford 5-bolt flange. And even then, I had to get hex-head bolts for the lower and leftmost bolt. You've got the right flange for your setup. I just wanted people to know about that (issue?). I found all these little things out, which, every little thing cost me 3-5 days more downtime from shipping stuff. I think people need to be made aware that if they're buying your kit and customizing it, these extra pieces and work are needed.

Quote » the angle of the DP is to be able to fit the 3 inch DP in there, and clear the steering arm. you are dealing with a top mount manifold not an sr20det lower mount so you run into diffrent placement and angles.[/quote]I know what I'm dealing with. But the logical order of progression for KA-T people is.. intake, exhaust. turbo kit. Cheapest stuff first. The exhaust because it works for any setup later. Every KA-T I know went this route, including myself. So, to get 3" turbo-back exhaust, the only option on the market is a 3" sr20det downpipe to the cat, and the cat-back exhaust. This is why I'm stressing the need to mate with a sr downpipe on my car. Even Enjuku Racing is understanding this, and developing their kit to mate to the sr downipipe.

Quote »these motors are not sr20det engines and dont use the same manifolds as the sr, there for thats why the DP does not line up for an sr exhaust, which does not bother me becouse it was never meant to line up for it, again its not an sr20det.[/quote]See above. We've been over this on KA-T, and we're agreeing to disagree here. I firmly believe that you have or will cost yourself customers by not mating to the sr20det downpipe. It'd take 2 hours to cut one of your downpipes apart, and create the jig for the 2nd version, which many more people could use. All you need is to shorten your downpipe and rotate it ~60*. If I knew what I needed to do to get your pipe to work, I would have made my own. I'm not knocking you on anything, and far be it from me to tell you how to operate a business. I'm not going to compete with you in any way, I'm just trying to inform people what's needed to make this work on a common setup.

Quote »i went with flow in mind knowing i was going to produce the exhaust system to compliment the kit. you see thats why i sell complete kits i know all my pieces work with the others in my design i never guarantee placement or fitment when you try to use parts of my kit with parts of another, it was never meant to be done like that. if you want a guarantee fitment and no issues of flow or performance i suggest you buy the complete kit i can not help when you haft to hack or modify to make it adapt to other pieces that it was not designed around. thanks[/quote]I'm also aware of this, and people should buy a whole kit. But for those of us who made their turbo kit 3 years ago when the options were FMax kit or RevHard manifold and custom kit... I, like ~50% of KA-T owners, went with the RevHard. Your manifold came out, and I wanted to update/upgrade, and I did. I'm really happy with the manifold. And once again, I'm not knocking anything you've done or you're doing. Just stating what mods need to be done to work with your downpipe or your exhaust. If you'd like, feel free to copy-paste this stuff to your website to inform people. Just give me credit for my time and money going into this research.

Also, WDRacing is correct. The 240sx/silvia use the same hangars. On a S14, the front cat (just past the stock header) is where the sr turbo sat. The 2nd cat (it's hollow, and fake) is where, in Japan, their catalytic convertor was. So the sr20det downpipe.. with a slight flange angle rotation, can bolt to the stock header and connect to the fake-cat, eliminating the real one, and that restrictive 2" crimp-bent front pipe. Then all standard cat-backs bolt up from there. SR20DET silvias and KA24DE 240sx's share all exhaust mounts and hangar locations. So.. saying that the KA shares nothing with an SR is incorrect. Which again, makes the sr20det downpipe such a good way to get 3" turbo-back exhaust on a custom kit. Even MaxType 240, with his full FMax kit.. cut apart their downpipe to mate it with a 3" sr20det downpipe, because FMax was only 2.5".-Jeff

[240sxHitman]

Jeff good info...........well reading and seeing how to mate the sr downpipe makes it more interesting cuz i want to keep my cat and a HKS hi powered exhaust

[TheOne]

i don't wanna make another thread about this so i'll ask here, if i buy BD's turbokit, will the RS-R exmag exhaust be ok?, i can take it to a muffler shop and have'em do the pipe that goes from the dp to the exhaust.(and maybe an exhaust clip with that 1?(relly off topic but ya still got the vid of that pic 240sxhitman? aim is jarek1us if ya don't mind sendin it)

[GEO]

I was talking to PJ awhile ago about this issue. To my understanding, all you have to do is get a pipe made from the downpipe to the exhaust. I hope my n1 bolts up nicely

[WDRacing]

Any muffler shop can modify the BD downpipe to fit any aftermarket exhaust. If I were to do it for you, I would charge 50 bucks.

[240sxHitman]

WD...well im looking into getting the BD but i wanna keep the cat so how would u do that? cuz i would rather just mate to the Sr DP but im just curious how u plan on doing it?

[Jeff240sx]

Any muffler shop can modify the BD downpipe to fit any aftermarket exhaust. If I were to do it for you, I would charge 50 bucks.

$50 bucks for the stainless and 2 flanges? Then labor to remove the downpipe, cut, extend, weld, and reinstall for $50? I don't see it. I don't even think I could buy the raw material for that low. We're talking a 45* and 3' of 3" mandrel bent pipe, and flanges/gaskets. I'm budgeting $60 to just get the BD downpipe to mate with my SR downpipe, which requires no flanges, no extra 3" mandrel bent stainless. Cutting a section out and rotation.

And 240sxHitman, you can have the BD downpipe extended, but I really think it would cost $100+. It's still less than a sr20det downpipe and modifying the BD downpipe to mate.-Jeff

[240sxHitman]

And 240sxHitman, you can have the BD downpipe extended, but I really think it would cost $100+. It's still less than a sr20det downpipe and modifying the BD downpipe to mate.-Jeff

yea after reading what you wrote before i want to mod the BD DP to a SR DP as you have/or going to do. so like u said be for it cut part of the BD DP out and bent slightly towards the SR DP? do i have to get some1 to weld flanges to bolt to the SR DP

[Jeff240sx]

yea after reading what you wrote before i want to mod the BD DP to a SR DP as you have/or going to do. so like u said be for it cut part of the BD DP out and bent slightly towards the SR DP? do i have to get some1 to weld flanges to bolt to the SR DP

It doesn't need to get bent. If you cut correctly, you can get the angle in the downpipe correct. And you won't need extra flanges, because the 3" 3-bolt flange on the BD downpipe is the correct flange for the SR downpipe. You will just need to rotate it a bit. Once you get it installed, you'll see what I'm talking about. Hard to describe, easy to visualize.-Jeff

[240sxHitman]

thanks for the info so when im ready ill know what to do even tho imma probably gonna have some1 install it for me. now i just need to learn more about tuning such as the SAFC

oh yea what time of SR DP are you using?