exhaust improvement on q

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PoorManQ45
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I know that other people have modified their exhaust. But, it sounds like they had to spend a little too much money, to me. What have other exhaust modifications cost? $500+? I'm thinking about spending a total of $25~$50 to replace the exhaust.

I have two ideas.

Here's what I would do. First, cut the exhaust off after the headers. Remove the old exhaust system. In it's place, I would weld in pipes of ~3in on each side. The pipes would be about a foot long. They would dump the exhaust gas straight down. Underneath the car. Or, I would take them out behind the front wheels.

Another way I would do it is. I would leave the stock system alone, except for a few things. I would install an electronic bypass valve close to the headers. The valve, when opened, would dump the exhaust straight down. When it's closed, the exhaust would flow/sound stock. I would install a switch close to the drivers seat. I kind of like this idea a little more. It is very stealthy. Could you imagine the look on the guys face next to you. When you pull up next to him, your car sounds nearly silent, very luxurious. When he revs his engine(usually sounds like an angry bee), you flip the switch to open the valve. Then you rev your engine, and out comes a loud obnoxious growl. . This modification would kind of act like nitrous. HP at the push of a button.

What do you guys think of these exhaust mod ideas?


qship96
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go to home depot,buy plastic dryer vent flexible pipe,and use that-or better yet,remove headers and allow exhaust to exit engine block,and remove hood to allow for some underhood ventillation!

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pito11213
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Hey Qship is that your final answer

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PoorManQ45
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qship96 wrote:go to home depot,buy plastic dryer vent flexible pipe,and use that-or better yet,remove headers and allow exhaust to exit engine block,and remove hood to allow for some underhood ventillation!
I'm serious. I wouldn't be using any dryer vent. I would use 3in SS pipe from a local company.

Also, Removing the headers is not a bad idea. Make your own pipes to replace them. Put a cowl hood on the car. Exhaust the pipes out the cowl. And guess what. You would alos have an automatic window defroster.

Now, does anybody have anything serious to say about his subject? What would be the Pros/Cons?

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elwesso
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Why not just chop off the rear resonator and call it good???

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pito11213
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come on guys there has to be some sort of advice or info that can be given to this.

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PoorManQ45
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exactly. Does anybody have any advice?

Does this idea sound worthwhile?

Also, thanks for the quick responses.

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elwesso
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Q45tech has said (not liek that means anything to you ) that the major bottleneck in the exhaust is the rear resonator... if you really want to, cut out the cats as well... The 2 other resonators are very high flow and not much HP to be lost in them...

I was thinking of doing this mod and worst case, you chop it off, and if its too loud have a shop weld it back on, less than $50 once its all done...

You could get some really nice looking chrome pipes and tips, that would look awesome!

DAEDALUS
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Backpressure is not your enemy unless you're going to make major performance mods. Increase the flow and you'll make your lowend torque worse than it already is.

How's that plenum job coming? Any pics yet?

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elwesso
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Like Q45tech said, modifying the exhaust at the rear is the most cost effective mod you can do.. I will search for that post..... It was in a thread I started!

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PoorManQ45
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I am leaning a little more towards the second idea. In that case, I would want the exhaust to sound stock when the valve is closed. Meaning wouldn't want to remove the resonator. Also, I kind of like the idea of 5~15 extra HP at the push of a button. Would it actually work that way?

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Rex Rich
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Yah; the horsepower goes way up!!!

But I’m trying to get enough guts (my horsepower scares me) to just go strait up and take the ex-manifolds right off! That should though me back in the seat!!!

Go for it!!! _________________________________________________________

"Where are all the camel toes"?

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Jesda
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I think the gain would be 1-2 hp at MOST.

maxnix
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elwesso wrote:Like Q45tech said, modifying the exhaust at the rear is the most cost effective mod you can do..
Wrongo, Bunky!

If one reads the extensive previous posts on this subject, there is as Jesda said, very little gain to be had, even at redline, unless noise is what you are after.

Exhaust modification is one of the least effective performance modifications one can make to this true dual system.

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elwesso
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Was dennis kidding in this thread?? Huhh bunky????

http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=64804
Dennis wrote:Working with the rear muffler assembly is the most cost effective and weight saving mod you can make on a Q.

Find a dual in dual out straight thru Dynomax ULTRAFLOW.......the quiestest lowest backpressure [you can see straight thru each section] muffler made.Both the corporate Q have this ULTRAFLOW muffler held in place by Chrysler oval bands onto which have been welded the 4 oem mounting brackets/ears so it it supported in oem fashion .......

...... We have retrofitted and designed systems for dozens of Q45.
Dont worry, Jesda will give you a hug...

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90Q45blue
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OUCH!!!! Brian just got owned!

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Jesda
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1qckser
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I love it Good job WES

maxnix
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elwesso wrote:Was dennis kidding in this thread?? Huhh bunky????

http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=64804

Dont worry, Jesda will give you a hug...
But there was was negligible performance gain for big bucks, Bunky! Some weight saving at the expense of durability, sure. That's not performance in my book. Else, you would junk the whole thing and be done with it.

As I was saying, from a previous post many boards ago:
Q45tech wrote:VERY Loud exhausts might be good for 3-4lb/ft more.

The exhaust system and intake are very low restriction so little is to be gained.

More fun is to beat the new 2002 Q! My 231k 90 with stock air box, stock new exhaust [from a 95 after my custom system rusted through
Wasn't that your statement, not how much one can spend for the hell of it?

Note that this system didn't last on his car for more than a couple of years,and he is running what is basically1995 OEM system now.

OK, group hug.

Modified by maxnix at 8:48 PM 9/16/2004
Modified by maxnix at 8:50 PM 9/16/2004

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elwesso
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Wes wrote:Modifying the exhaust at the rear is the most cost effective mod you can do..
Does this imply anything about performance gains??? I didnt mean to...



Actually, in that thread he mentioned he didnt like the vibrations and other things like that it gave, so he took it off for more quietness.. But who cares..

Now about that group hug.....

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Jesda
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For cost its hard to beat the nearly indestructible stainless steel OEM setup. I mean unless you drive over something nasty its basicallay permanent. Mine's lasted 14 years so far.

But this thread is about performance, and if Dennis says so, I guess its true.

maxnix
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elwesso wrote:
Does this imply anything about performance gains??? I didnt mean to...

Actually, in that thread he mentioned he didnt like the vibrations and other things like that it gave, so he took it off for more quietness.. But who cares..

Now about that group hug.....
Ah, more "performance" gains.

A quote from my Q45tech archives (from many boards ago):
Q45tech wrote:More fun is to beat the new 2002 Q! My 231k 90 with stock air box, stock new exhaust [from a 95 after my custom system rusted through]...
Jesda wrote: But this thread is about performance, and if Dennis says so, I guess its true.
But he never has said that there were any significant gains in modifying the exhaust, even with the attendant unbearable noise and vibrations of no resonators or mufflers. He merely said it was a way to remove some weight, and by result, limit the systems durability.

Q45tech
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YEP, I gave up 0.1 second for peace amd quiet [of almost new oem 95 system*].............actually on one of the T3 cars the Ultraflow has been installed on 4 different cars since 1999 and probably has at least 100,000 miles.........and seems about as quiet as the day we had the setup built. AMAZING what an engineer I AM.

* went by our muffler shop a few years ago and what were they taking off to throw away but a less than 1 year old [replaced by insurance company] entire oem Q exhaust...........$20 cash and my old system was trash and the newish one on my Q.......what a deal!

The 95 got an awful LOUD custom flowmaster setup up [because the kid/owner heard Flowmaster was the best - at least their ads said so! Worthless pieces of C__p mufflers.

I've had so many lucky Q parts days ------saving thousands.


1992Q45A
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So far so good on this impul

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PoorManQ45
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Ok guys. Please don't hijack this thread. This is one of the very few "normal" ideas that I have had.

Now onto the subject of performance gains. Are there any to be had? And don't give me that whole line about the exhaust having almost no restriction. That is total BS. There is no system that can have pre-cats, resonators,mufflers, and a resonator and still be free flowing.

Has anybody here replaced the entire exhaust, except for the headers? Has anybody ran straight pipes?

On the subject of loosing lowend torque. That is why I would leave the stock system in place. If I were racing, I would start with the stock exhaust and as the RPMs rose above ~4000, I would open the valve and dump the exhaust. Does that sound reasonable?


maxnix
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Q45tech wrote:YEP, I gave up 0.1 second for peace and quiet of mind [almost new oem 95 system - went by our muffler shop a few years ago and what were they taking off to throw away but a less than 1 year old [replaced by insurance company] entire oem Q exhaust...........$20 cash and my old system was trash and the newish one on my Q.......what a deal!

I've had so many lucky Q parts days ------saving thousands.
Damned, owned again!

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You've obviously not read a thing Dennis has said.

All the knowledge is here, you just have to read.

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PoorManQ45
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The job has come to a stand still. I have everything done except for replacing the two hoses that go between the cylinder banks.

I am having a hard time finding the proper size hoses. Darn Nissan with their metric sizes. I was talking to Wes on AIM. He said that the hoses that I need cost ~$5 from Infiniti/Nissan. Is that right? If so, those will be hoses that I buy OEM. I still can't justify $5 for 6in of hose. There is nothing special about them; they are just straight hoses. But, if I have to, I will get them OEM.

BTW, I found a new place to get hoses, MastHead. They're better and cheaper. .They are a hose supplier to Semi-truck companies. All their stuff is tested in a big-rig setting. So, they are probably more durable than hoses for cars. I have gotten fuel line from them. It is rated to 300psi minimum burst, and in only costs $1.05. I have also gotten some of their air brake hoses. They are rated to 3000psi minimum burst, they cost ~$1.50 ft. They also have every connector that you could think of. When I'm done with my plenum job, I'm gonna replace the p/s hoses. I'll take the old ones to MastHead and have them make the same thing for me, if it costs less then OEM.

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PoorManQ45
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AZhitman wrote:You've obviously not read a thing Dennis has said.

All the knowledge is here, you just have to read.
Were you talking to me? If so, I have read the things that he posted.

I am not talking about replacing the entire exhaust. I am talking about installing a valve near the headers that can re-route the exhaust. He has stated a 0.1 decrease in acceleration with a "modified exhaust". I don't want to modify the exhaust. I want to exclude it, part of the time, of course.

DAEDALUS
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What sort of "electronic bypass valve" will withstand the exhaust gas temps? Electronics usually require insulators of some sort. And you will put one on each pipe from the head, or lower down? Not much room anywhere, is there? Lastly, you expect this valve to reduce restrictions, or is it just to make things louder?

BTW, I thought the long-held most *cost effective* ($/hp) mod you can do is the JWT ECU.


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