It's a valve that is opened and closed by a solenoid. There are companies that make them already. But, I'm good with electronics and plumbing, so, I would/could probably make it myself.DAEDALUS wrote:What sort of "electronic bypass valve" will withstand the exhaust gas temps? Electronics usually require insulators of some sort. And you will put one on each pipe from the head, or lower down? Not much room anywhere, is there?
I would think that cutting off the entire exhaust would reduce restriction. At what RPM range is the stock exhaust most restrictive. I could go high tech with this job. I could make an electronic switch that is controlled by the/a tachometer. Opening the valve when the stock exhaust becomes restrictive, closing it when it's not restrictive. This would make it so the restriction was/is immediately eliminated right before it begins. Is that close to right?DAEDALUS wrote:Lastly, you expect this valve to reduce restrictions, or is it just to make things louder?
JWT ECU is the most cost effective, if you buy stuff off the shelf. If I can make a new exhaust or install bypass valves in the exhaust for less than $50, it would only have to make ~3~5hp to make it more cost effective. I think I got that right.DAEDALUS wrote:BTW, I thought the long-held most *cost effective* ($/hp) mod you can do is the JWT ECU.
Amen, Rev. Wes! Praise the facts! Cast out idle speculation and gross imponderables!elwesso wrote:PMQ, you really need to read the previous posts before you start posting threads on here....
That's why I suggested using a valve to change the flow of the exhaust. I would get the low-end of the stock exhaust, and better high-end with the modified flow.rsiwicki wrote:Me!!!!! I think that I might have lost a little bottom (low-end) torque...but the trade off is nice as I don't get the drop off either after 5,000rpms like I use to and so the freeway cruiser is a real monster now....
Yes, one must NEVER consider mods (not even for a second) until perfection in its stockness is achieved.....AZhitman wrote:Please don't street race anyone.
This scenario is almost as absurd as it gets. Let's get your Q back to "as-new" condition, and you won't have to worry about "revving" on people at stoplights (which is incredibly juvenile, especially in a Q45).
AZhitman wrote:Please don't street race anyone.
This scenario is almost as absurd as it gets. Let's get your Q back to "as-new" condition, and you won't have to worry about "revving" on people at stoplights (which is incredibly juvenile, especially in a Q45).
Thanks guys!elwesso wrote:Yes, one must NEVER consider mods (not even for a second) until perfection in its stockness is achieved.....
I don't want it in "as-new" condition. I am making it "better than new".. I have kept the Q in very good condition. All synthetic lubes, including oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, and differential fluid. I change the oil at ~3.5k, or 4 months. Get the engine flushed every year. I change the transmission fluid evey 15k~20k miles, and drop the pan every 50k. It gets completely flushed every year, along with oil flush. The brake fluid gets changed every time I change the pads or rotors 6~12months(usually unnecessary, but I change it anyway.) using sythetic DOT 4. I change the differential fluid every 30k miles(usually doesn't need it, but I do it anyway.) It's always been fed super-premium, with the occasional bottle of octane booster here and there. Fuel filter gets changed every 5k~10k miles. The timing chain guides along with the chain were replaced at 50k miles, by the original owner. I have replaced the radiator(old one cracked) with one that is a little larger than OEM. I have replaced the water pump, alternator, fuel pump, shocks and springs, power-steering pump, and a few bad bushings. And a few other things that I can't think of now. I would say that is a very nice maintenance schedule.AZhitman wrote:Let's get your Q back to "as-new" condition,
Besides the legality, what is the problem with doing this?AZhitman wrote:Please don't street race anyone.
I would be revving the engine to get them give a little more respect(growling exhaust usually command respect) Have you ever heard a car with straight pipes. I wouldn't even need to rev the engine. The exhaust would be very loud at idle. At about ~2k RPMs is when these exhausts start to get extremely loud. So, even if I did rev the engine, I wouldn't have to rev it very high to make my point.AZhitman wrote:... and you won't have to worry about "revving" on people at stoplights (which is incredibly juvenile, especially in a Q45).
Noone has agreed or disagreed with me, that is the problem. If you don't think the exhaust modification that I am talking about, please just tell me. And have the curtiousy to explain why you think it won't work.louiegz wrote:New ideas are good, but no one agrees with poorman. If he feels so strongly that his idea will work, then try it, let us know if it worked out. You cant expect other people in this forum with many years of practical experience to change their minds without proof.
You don't really provide enough details to say whether it won't work. Oh, sure, electronic valve on the exhaust, a little plumbing, some electronics, $50, and voila. How about some vendors and part numbers for these valves that we can look at and judge? Some of us, including me, have never seen one. Wanna do it yourself, fine. How about a functional sketch of what you intend to do, with a good idea of materials (again with vendors, specs, etc) and processes? No one will have all the answers for you, but you provide very little to go on. You have all these grand goals in your head but not many details. You just post your ideas and ask why it won't work; from what I've seen you ignore any answer you don't like.PoorManQ45 wrote:Noone has agreed or disagreed with me, that is the problem. If you don't think the exhaust modification that I am talking about, please just tell me. And have the curtiousy to explain why you think it won't work.
Do you not understand that this is only an IDEA right now. Here are a few sites for you to "judge".These sites are a little pricey. But they give you an idea of what I'm talking about.DAEDALUS wrote:You don't really provide enough details to say whether it won't work. Oh, sure, electronic valve on the exhaust, a little plumbing, some electronics, $50, and voila. How about some vendors and part numbers for these valves that we can look at and judge? Some of us, including me, have never seen one. Wanna do it yourself, fine. How about a functional sketch of what you intend to do, with a good idea of materials (again with vendors, specs, etc) and processes?
Not true at all. If people post answer to my question, they shouln't just say, "That won't work. That's another stupid idea. etc..." If they were to explain there answers a little better, I would pay a little more attention to there answers.DAEDALUS wrote:You just post your ideas and ask why it won't work; from what I've seen you ignore any answer you don't like.
Thanks for the info.DAEDALUS wrote:The smallest through-way crosssection area in the valve will have to be at least as large as the exhaust tube or you won't be reducing the restriction. Don't forget to factor in the effective restrictions on every transition, bend and curve; i.e., each xx* bend is equal to the restriction in a straight pipe of y feet. I think 90* is 9 feet. Simply going over a weld bead will increase the restriction.