essential mods? for more HP and suspension and brakes.

[moshmoshi]

Hi, what are the top ten mods for the Q45?

alex

[qsiguy]

What year are you referring to? Makes a big difference. You will also find a lot of info if you do some basic searching. Even going back through the first 2-3 pages of these posts will provide many ideas.

If you are referring to the '94-95 models you'll see a few of the available mods in my signature below.

[maxnix]

Hi, what are the top ten mods for the Q45?

alex

1.) Restore to as new OEM conditon.

2.) Add rear a model anti-roll bar and change front to t or a bar.

3.) NICO ECU.

4.) Add Auxiliary ATF cooler.

5.) Upgrade tires to summer performance tires.

6.) Upgrade wheels to correct offset and strength and weight for tires in 5. above.

7.) Install M1 oil fliter.

8.) Install Sylvania Silver Star front illumination.

1.), 4.) - 8.) may apply to post G50 models.

[Q45tech]

Replace oem shocks every 4 year [60k] with new Tokkico HP versionReplace everything rubber [nearly 100 items] in driveline and suspension to restore as new compliance.

[mtcookson]

8.) Install Sylvania Silver Star front illumination.

I personally recommend the Toshiba HIR bulbs. They are more expensive but are way brighter and, in my opinion, have a better color than the SS's. You do have to modify them a bit to make them work though so that's another thing to consider. You can find them on eBay if interested.

I also recommend modifying the headlight switch using parts from another Nissan switch to turn off the low beams when the high beams are on. This allows you to see much further at night when the high beams are on making it much safer. I'll have a writeup for this pretty soon.

[Rex]

If it's a 90-93, make sure the chain guides have been addressed, or nothing else will matter.

[elwesso]

IMO the best mod you can do is make sure the car is working 100% OEM. Probably less than 50% of cars on this board are working like 100% new, which means that probably less than 10% of Q on the road are.

Runs good and runs perfect are WAY different!

[NightRiderQ45]

8.) Install Sylvania Silver Star front illumination.

I purchased these bulbs Jan 07 before I moved to Oklahoma and had to replace them in December . After reading on different forums concerning these bulbs, many agree that SS don't last long. Maybe Sylvania fixed the problem causing the SS to die quickly and called them Ultra SS bulbs + extra $10! Marketing I tell ya.

Oh, I didn't touch the bulb with my bare hands. Just need to throw that in.

[superuber]

I too just had my go in my Quest. They did not last. So I got HID's for the wife.

As far as mods go, having your Q restored to oe is not a mod.I think some here are confused, but hey it's the board montra I guess???

[elwesso]

my point is, very few people experience what a real Q is like, much less what a modded Q is.. you cant your vegetables and go right to desert otherwise your teeth will rot.

[superuber]

Understood Wes, I was talking to our own dynamic duo! OE and OE only!

[mtcookson]

I purchased these bulbs Jan 07 before I moved to Oklahoma and had to replace them in December . After reading on different forums concerning these bulbs, many agree that SS don't last long. Maybe Sylvania fixed the problem causing the SS to die quickly and called them Ultra SS bulbs + extra $10! Marketing I tell ya.

Oh, I didn't touch the bulb with my bare hands. Just need to throw that in.

The Ultra's are supposed to last much longer. I bought some regular SS's, then bought some Ultra's, then bought the HIR's. I let my brother have the SS's and kept the Ultra's for backup but the SS's ended up blowing not too long after putting them in. They definitely seem to have some issues.

I haven't got to test the Ultra's long enough to have a verdict on those. I absolutely love the HIR's so far but am not sure on longevity either. I've had them in 3 different cars so far but not many hours on them yet. I do know that until I go with an HID setup, I won't use any other halogen as they are just awesome. I might consider some cheaper bulbs for my low beams but I won't go with any less for the high's... to many deer around here.

[AlabamaDan]

I also recommend modifying the headlight switch using parts from another Nissan switch to turn off the low beams when the high beams are on. This allows you to see much further at night when the high beams are on making it much safer. I'll have a writeup for this pretty soon.

Looking forward to reading the writeup. Have you already done it? Be sure to include lots of pics.

[mtcookson]

I did it on my M30. Will be sure to take lots of pics.

[maxnix]

I purchased these bulbs Jan 07 before I moved to Oklahoma and had to replace them in December . After reading on different forums concerning these bulbs, many agree that SS don't last long.

Yeah, mine have only lasted 5 years. What a rip! I'll post when one dies.

[Rex]

... As far as mods go, having your Q restored to oe is not a mod.I think some here are confused, but hey it's the board montra I guess???

True OE is not a mod, but if you remove "mod" from his title

essentials? for more HP and suspension and brakes

The replies are very relevant. And given so few have ever driven or ridden in a (as good as) stock performing Q, that's a good first step.

[qsiguy]

I have to agree with everyone and say get it to stock performance and condition first. A while ago I wouldn't have said that. Let me explain...

As you can see my Q is far from OEM stock. I "thought" it was is pretty nice shape and I'm sure it is by compared to the average Q. I recently tested my 0-60, 40-80 times and with 6 PSI of turbo boost I have basically brought my performance back to OEM spec. That was very disappointing to say the least.

So....I have my work cut out for me because to get the increase in performance I want I now need to get busy replacing parts and tuning up my Q. Once that is done I believe my Q will rule all!

For the record I've known I need to get many parts replaced for a while due to the fact that there are approximately $1,500+ worth of new Q parts in my garage waiting to be installed that have been there for almost a year. Geez I'm a slacker

[gammer_ghn]

http://www.impul.co.jp/products/soo ya shoot an email to [email protected] here in west coast but i think he can help you and if you want supercharger too they have a line of them good luck!

[DoinkMobb]

1. Get some 17" or 18" rims (Nissan or Infiniti will be cheap, easy to find and fit correctly) with some high performance summer tires.2. Tokico blues with stock or aftermarket springs.3. NICO ecu4. Swaybars and bushings...hell, might as well replace all the rubber bits with new OEM or aftermarket5. Stainless steel brake lines, good pads and rotors and a bleed6. Alignment

I was bored so I painted the slats on the grille black and took off the badges on the back, painted them black and stuck them back on. Cheap and simple, and it looks good.

[moshmoshi]

thanks a lot guys.

[Haitian_King]

Not really too many options for extra HP. You can add a turbo, but there's not much room in the engine bay which is why qsiguy mounted his in the rear. (I think) You can get a NICO ECU that will remove your rev limiter and add an extra 30 HP.

But honestly, until the car is bulletproof mechanically, you really shouldn't try to force more power out of it.

If your have a G50 (90-96 Q45) you can upgrade your brakes to the Z32 setup. Or if you have 2 grand laying around, get a complete Brembo kit.

Here's a great article about G50 modifications written by God. I mean Wes. http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=170119

[MR. Q]

Try a cold air intake.

[Q45tech]

Oem already has a " cold air intake" as cold as the air is in front of vehicle.

Less restrictive intake system without enhancements [tuning for cruise and 4,000 rpm ] is an option, unfortunately oem is optimized to BECOME TRANSPARENT at speeds above 80 mph...........................unlikely that any aftermarket or homemade design can say or prove that efficient.

Attacking the WOT throttle intake restriction [1.5" at 4k rising to just under 7" WC at 6500 rpm is pretty non cost effective since the best possible gain is 4-5" or [5/27.7= 0.18 x 6.8%= 1.22% or 4 HP in the best case probably half that without exotic windtunnel and instrumentations.

[Haitian_King]

Oem already has a " cold air intake" as cold as the air is in front of vehicle.

Less restrictive intake system without enhancements [tuning for cruise and 4,000 rpm ] is an option, unfortunately oem is optimized to BECOME TRANSPARENT at speeds above 80 mph...........................unlikely that any aftermarket or homemade design can say or prove that efficient.

Attacking the WOT throttle intake restriction [1.5" at 4k rising to just under 7" WC at 6500 rpm is pretty non cost effective since the best possible gain is 4-5" or [5/27.7= 0.18 x 6.8%= 1.22% or 4 HP in the best case probably half that without exotic windtunnel and instrumentations.

I'm beginning to think that the "cold-air intake" when applied to a Q is a misnomer. It seems that the gains aren't that great. From what I understand is that the biggest benefit is the change in engine sound.

Tech, what did you mean about the OEM intake going "transparent" above 80?

[moshmoshi]

Brembo? not in my lifetime. All extra cash are for party with friends and allthe lovely ladies. Z32 brakes will do

[maxnix]

Z32 brakes will do

No upgrade in performance, just a change.

Best upgrade is to spend the money on the best tires you can fit to your wheels after returning the brakes and suspension to as new OEM performance.

[Haitian_King]

Aren't the Z32 brakes larger and were designed for a sports car? They're not even "slightly" better than OEM Q? (I did take into account that the curb weight for a Z32 2+2 was 3550 lbs as opposed to the G50's curb weight of 3929 lbs for standard and 4156 lbs for active. But wouldn't the Z32 brakes have been engineered to exceed expected performance?) If not slightly better than Q OEM, at least comparable?

Just wondering. It would be a shame if their only benefit is for aesthetic purposes.

[qship96]

Waste of time and money. Put that time and money into better tires,and more frequent brake maintenance for a bigger bang for your buck.

[maxnix]

Read Q45tech's posts. Same mass, just more void between rotor surfaces. 4 piston caliper, but no real on road performance gains.

There is actually a little more benefit and bang for the buck to be had by utilizing the FGY33 front rotors and the J30/FGY33 vented rear rotors. 15" wheels would not be usable on the front.

To increase resistance to fade in very heavy use, an owner has to spend several large for a custom Brembo or AP Racing set-up.

[Haitian_King]

Read Q45tech's posts. Same mass, just more void between rotor surfaces. 4 piston caliper, but no real on road performance gains.

There is actually a little more benefit and bang for the buck to be had by utilizing the FGY33 front rotors and the J30/FGY33 vented rear rotors. 15" wheels would not be usable on the front.

To increase resistance to fade in very heavy use, an owner has to spend several large for a custom Brembo or AP Racing set-up.

If the $2k Brembo setup is needed, it may be safe to assume that the driver drives WAY too fast (for public roads) or takes his Q on a race course. I find my OEM setup quite nice and suitable for my driving.

I did not know that about the J30/FGY33 rotors. I've never seen it mentioned. Are they a straight swap or will modifications be necessary? (Provided the wheels are larger than 15")