epic discovery in the junk yard!!!!!

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
waxdnuggz
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I searched and searched and this hasn't been talked about at all. Last time I was on here I just got my hands on my 1jz swap well after much research I decided to sell it and go lsx for cost to power ratio reasons well I've decided on the 5.3 iron truck block because it will hold boost well and 400ft/lbs to the wheels won't be too hard without boost for the moment well I was walking around my local junk yard sourcing a 5.3 and did the whole let me just walk around and see what else I can find. Well guess what everyone some 1992-2000 ford rangers and explorers with the 4.0 v6 come with a 1 piece alum driveshaft that you can acquire for less than 20 $ talked to advanced driveline and the said if I have both the yoke and the diff end that I can have it shortened and the strongest ujoints the offer idr the # they said they were called but shortened and ujoints installed and balanced for right around 150 THATS RIGHT NO 450+$ SWAP SHAFT NEEDED that's less then 1/2 the cost. Figured I'd share the love on here sorry for the novel


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PapaSmurf2k3
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r i i i i i i i i i g h t.

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pepesilvia
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that was the longest run-on sentence I've ever read. :whistle:

waxdnuggz
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Sorry I thought this was a forum for car enthusiests not english teachers. I was just trying to share a discovery I found that could save every one a few hundred. My apologies it won't happen again. And are you really that bored to where you just repky to posts just to reply? Are you like those 14 yr old girls that add everyone they can on facebook just to have a lot of friends but with posts?

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Razi
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If you want people to read something you write, it's pretty important not to write a jumble of words.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I still don't understand what the discovery is... a Ford explorer driveshaft will fit an S13? And it'll hold more power?

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Razi
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From what I could figure out, he got a junkyard driveshaft, and was told he could have it shortened and modified at a shop to fit a 240.
Doesn't seem like he actually had it done though.

waxdnuggz
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The discovery is that some come with 1 piece alum driveshaft that when shortend yes it will fit a 240 I talked to a driveshaft shop and if you have both ends (yoke and diff side) then it will run you between 100-150 depending on the ujoints you want (strength wise) that includes balancing. Most companys that offer a swap shaft are asking 400-600 for 1 piece alum shafts your saving a pretty penny there. And my local yard is selling them for 22.17 $ each that's less then 200 for a part that usually costs more then double plus no shipping costs. Sorry if I came off as an a-hole was not my intentions.
Last edited by waxdnuggz on Tue Jun 11, 2013 3:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

waxdnuggz
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How would i of had it done if I bought it yesterday?
Last edited by waxdnuggz on Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

waxdnuggz
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If your gonna try to turn this into the "oh he bought it but hasn't done it" then maybe this forum isn't what I thought it was. I thought it was a place to share ideas and knowledge about a common interest. Cause so far a few have proved me wrong. I shared something I found in hopes that yall would find it useful and save a little money. After all supposidly you guys "build" cars. Buying a bunch of parts and bolting them together is not building a car if the only tools you use is a 10, 12, 13, 15, 17 and a 36mm socket you do not build cars you put them together like an oversized model car.

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AAV240sx
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I sometimes use a 14mm wrench on my car, does that mean my car is built?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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So did you do it? Do you have any pics?
Do you pull the yoke and diff flange off your stock unit?

So basically you pull your driveshaft and the 1 piece driveshaft from an explorer (do you know what years?), bring them to the driveshaft shop and they can frankenstein the 2 together?

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Razi
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waxdnuggz wrote:If your gonna try to turn this into the "oh he bought it but hasn't done it" then maybe this forum isn't what I thought it was. I thought it was a place to share ideas and knowledge about a common interest. Cause so far a few have proved me wrong. I shared something I found in hopes that yall would find it useful and save a little money. After all supposidly you guys "build" cars. Buying a bunch of parts and bolting them together is not building a car if the only tools you use is a 10, 12, 13, 15, 17 and a 36mm socket you do not build cars you put them together like an oversized model car.
No need to get your panties in a bunch. I was just saying it wasn't done yet. I look forward to seeing how this turns out.
Also, I didn't know that socket sizes had anything to do with your legitimacy as a car guy, but okay.
If you mentioned that you bought it yesterday, I'm sorry, but I missed it somewhere in the sea of words.
AAV240sx wrote:I sometimes use a 14mm wrench on my car, does that mean my car is built?
I used a 8mm yesterday. We're pretty good.

waxdnuggz
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You use the yoke of the trans your using and the diff your using and take it to them and they measure for what u joint you need and the cut a small section of the shaft out. Theres no frankenstiening about it. I was just naming off sockets to prove a point. The years are 92-2000 with a 4.0 v6 not all have them idk what decides which gets the alum shaft there's no clear differences. I have a picture of the alum shaft I haven't taken it to the shop yet because I don't know the length I need I still need the t56 and to finish my motor mounts

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Gotcha. What's the diameter compared to factory?
Sometimes I like steel better because you can decrease the diameter and have more room for other things, like exhaust, etc.

waxdnuggz
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Its about an inch wider

mechanicalmoron
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I'm confused, doesn't a 1-pice NOT have a u-joint or carrier bearing? Otherwise, won't it be exactly the same number of pieces?

OP is very defensive, and a bit unclear, at least to me.... I'd be quite interested, if I could figure out what he's trying to convey.


Also, if you don't use a socket he didn't list, all you know how to do is build giant toy cars. But I guess that's okay, because most sockets are even numbers, not odd, so I guess when I tightened my water pump belt the other day, it counted as "building" my 240, since it took a 14mm.

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krash
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Dude I used a crescent wrench on my engine build the other day. I think That means I'm a pro builder since I didn't use a socket.

daemonyk
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Popped out the whole engine with just a crowbar :yesnod

Image

But it was easy since it's just a big toy car :gapteeth:

Itsa 1:1 Tamiya kit, one of those metal body ones thats held together by snaps and screws. I removed the KA to kitbash a RB into it. Models are fun! :dblthumb:

Srsly tho, you found something cool, you're excited, I get it. When you type like you've been mixing coffee and redbull, I personally can't understand a word you're saying. I don't seem to be the only one with difficulty understanding you. We're not trying to come down on you. We just can't read what you wrote. And we'd like to, cos it might be a great idea. So chill :bigthumb: we just wanna make sure we're gittin' what you're spittin', and speaking clearly helps. Thats all.

So did you find this driveshaft in other rangers at the yard too, or just the one? If it was in others, if you happened to go back and could get like VIN's of the vehicles that had em, we might be able to find a connection - region they're from, trim package, who knows :gotme

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Chaluska
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OP -

Many many many OEM trucks and vans came with aluminum driveshafts.. matter of fact most (90's and newer) chevy/ford trucks and large vans came with aluminum driveshafts. a good lessen for you to learn, is that if you try to cheap out when building a car, it will never run as good as if you did it right the first time.

mechanicalmoron
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Chaluska wrote:OP -

Many many many OEM trucks and vans came with aluminum driveshafts.. matter of fact most (90's and newer) chevy/ford trucks and large vans came with aluminum driveshafts. a good lessen for you to learn, is that if you try to cheap out when building a car, it will never run as good as if you did it right the first time.
I'm not sure how you get from a to b there.

If you can do something properly, for less, there's no harm, assuming this really can be done properly, which we have yet to see demonstraited. No harm other than headache, that is.

waxdnuggz
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There was a bunch of rangers and explores with them. to me the only difference I could find was that most of the non 4x4 ones came with one but some then again didnt. A ujoint is what holds the yoke to the driveshaft. A carrier bearing is whats in a 2 piece (2 short driveshafts mated to make 1 stock size with a ujoint at both ends). And how does doing something with the same quality for less equal "cheeping out". Its skipping the inflation and mark up part of building a car. Just like a company charges 500 for mounts that cost 15 $ in parts and 50 in labor your paying a lot for it because one not just any parts store sells it and 2 people will pay a lot for something they don't have confidence in doing themselves and 3 because people will pay to play. This driveshaft can be used in any car/swap combo given the shaft needs to be less then 64" what do you think the first person did that swapped a 2jz into an s13 slapped the stock one in and wished for the best? No the had on made but instead of paying full price on every piece you cut a huge chunk out by modifying an existing piece. I'm sorry for the jumble of words before I've posted all of this off my phone and it doesn't like to say what I want it to say

waxdnuggz
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How many jokes are you going to make about the socket referance I was making a point to if you just bolt s*** on your car you haven't buit it you put it together. If you don't own anything other then a basic set of hand tools then you have no business critisizing my post because its not like your going to do this type of work anyways

waxdnuggz
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91 240sx hatch SOLD
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Location: orlando florida
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mechanicalmoron wrote:

Also, if you don't use a socket he didn't list, all you know how to do is build giant toy cars. But I guess that's okay, because most sockets are even numbers, not odd, so I guess when I tightened my water pump belt the other day, it counted as "building" my 240, since it took a 14mm.
If your gonna joke then pay attention I listed 3 even and 3 odd theres no "most"

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AAV240sx
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waxdnuggz wrote:How many jokes are you going to make about the socket referance I was making a point to if you just bolt s*** on your car you haven't buit it you put it together. If you don't own anything other then a basic set of hand tools then you have no business critisizing my post because its not like your going to do this type of work anyways
So what other tools other than a couple sockets/hand tools do I need to buy before my car is "buit" ?

daemonyk
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waxdnuggz wrote:If your gonna joke then pay attention I listed 3 even and 3 odd theres no "most"
Yeah! :nono: Joking is serious business!
AAV240sx wrote:
waxdnuggz wrote:How many jokes are you going to make about the socket referance I was making a point to if you just bolt s*** on your car you haven't buit it you put it together. If you don't own anything other then a basic set of hand tools then you have no business critisizing my post because its not like your going to do this type of work anyways
So what other tools other than a couple sockets/hand tools do I need to buy before my car is "buit" ?
Yes, please enlighten us. All I personally own is a set of metric sockets and spanners. I want my RB swap to be totally legit, and I don't want people saying I just "put my car together" myself instead of "building my car" myself.

As long as we're parsing semantics, is there a difference between "tools" and "equipment"? Are there "equipment" prerequisites as well as "tool" requirements? Is a floor jack considered a "tool" or "equipment". If I slide a pipe over a breaker bar for leverage, is the pipe now a tool, equipment, or is it an accessory? If I have a bunch of pipe laying around, can I count them as "tools" to increase my level?

PS - can we see pix of some of the work you've done? I feel it would benefit us greatly, to learn by example.

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op, you really have a lot to learn, as one poster said there are many late model domestic vehicles that have oem aluminium drive shafts. The issue you will run into is mating the OEM 240sx transmission and diff yoke to the Aluminium drive shaft, there is a size difference between the two. A U-joint that will fit the aluminium drive shaft will be twice the size of the 240 yoke thus rendering it non compatible from that point of view. I may me wrong.... but i'm yet to see a U- joint with two different sizes for the caps. Usually when you "custom build" a drive shaft for swapped cars you generally use the same material...eg- all steel or all aluminium so both the yoke and the drive shaft tube can be "welded" together.

what you failed to account for is the 1 peice aluminium drive shaft that is sold for the 240 uses the same size U-joint as stock, they are made by Spicer, so they fit the steel yoke and allow it to connect to the aluminium tube.

What your machine shop will need to do is get a damaged aluminium 1 peice 240 drive shaft cut off the part that recieves the U-joint, fabricate a taper to account for the size difference and weld it to the "ranger" driveshaft, then get a spicer brand u-joint and install it between the steel 240 yoke/s and the modified aluminium drive shaft.

Just so you know ....i used a 2003 chevy suburban 1 peice aluminum Drive shaft and a damaged 240 aluminium 1 peice drive shaft to build mine...its was quite expensive and alot bigger that the stock one, but it can be done....just not worth the effort or cost.

mechanicalmoron
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waxdnuggz wrote:How many jokes are you going to make about the socket referance I was making a point to if you just bolt s*** on your car you haven't buit it you put it together. If you don't own anything other then a basic set of hand tools then you have no business critisizing my post because its not like your going to do this type of work anyways
Yeah, if you only own basic hand tools there's no way you could remove a driveshaft, and take it to a shop.

You need, at the bare minimum, a hydraulic driveshaft-puller, and a magnetic-resonence utilizing gear-oil drain pan.

:wavey:

waxdnuggz
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<img src="http://i.imgur.com/uTqA7zB.jpg" alt="" title="Hosted by imgur.com" />
Rebuit 300zx alum brakes installed s14 front hubs on an s13 spindle steel braided lines had to cut the rusty end off the hardline and reflare it
Last edited by waxdnuggz on Tue Jun 18, 2013 10:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

waxdnuggz
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:51 pm
Car: 90 240sx hatch SOLD
91 240sx hatch SOLD
92 super sweet daily (freezing cold a.c., working ps and pw)
93 240sx hatch SOLD
94 240sx vert SOLD
Location: orlando florida
Contact:

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<img src="http://i.imgur.com/t9pw6z3.jpg" built a 351c ring gap too needed ring compressor needed plistigauge feeler gauge micrometer all needed.
Oh and yeah that's a 5 speed conversion on the back of it with the factory z bar clutxh setup tapped and drilled the bell housing for the conversion plate with who guessed it a drill press


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