Engine rebuild, Wiseco's ACL bearings, blah blah. need a couple opinions.

[KEMP]

Well ive been having mass amounts of crank case pressure, and catch can filling up FAST. Rings, and or ring lands in one or more cylinders are hurt.

So i ordered my wiseco's last night from raceengineering, for what i think is a very good price. $430 shipped. 8.5:1 and they are 83.5mm bore, so it will be bored 20 over.

I will also get ACL race bearings, once i get the crank machined to see if i need oversized bearings.

It will also get front and rear main seals. and block will be decked a tad.

I have a couple questions. MAny people recomend running regular NON-synthetic oil for the first 500miles after the re-built to let her break in and seat the rings. I am not to sure if i want to do this or not.

Any thoughts and or suggestions will be appriciated.

[KEMP]

i know about the oil squirter clearance on the wisecos, but have they fixed that yet?

if not, can a machine shop just machine it out to match the stock pistons? can it be correctly balanced to eliminate problems after the notch is cut, or what do you recomend

[r34 gtr]

i know about the oil squirter clearance on the wisecos, but have they fixed that yet?

No, they have not addressed it as far as I know. You can just have them notched and re-balanced. They should be fine.

I had always heard that you should run non-synthetic for the first 500 miles. Something about the rings not seating properly with synthetic, but I don't know if that is an issue with today's synthetic oils. Its probably a bunch of crap, but I don't really know for sure.

[sjbsuperman1425]

zerothread?id=340869

^^engine break-in procedure from awhile back..i think im doing float's recommendation, but i dont really remember lol hope this helps ya.

[float_6969]

I don't think the wiseco's can be notched to clear the squirter. You would have to take a bunch of material out from under the wrist pin, possibly weakening it.

I'm sorry, but IDK why ppl keep getting the wiseco's. Nobody's have fit correctly.

I would reccomend non-syn oil for the first few hundred miles, just to be safe. I also recommend a hard break in procedure. This combination yielded me a compression pressure of 190psi +/- 2psi.

[KEMP]

thank you, but if the others are notched, then won they be weaker in the same spot either way? no matter what pistons they are?.

but keep in mind, my hp goals are NO more than 350whp on racegas. if that.

i ordered them because i got a good deal, but i am wondering, what can i do to make these work with the squirters? ive seen people cut one of the bumps off the squirter and rotate it or something to that nature, any help will be awesome.

[KEMP]

would something like this work?

i know its an sr, but its worth the pondering.

zer...age=1

[zil40]

i have the wiesco pistons and they are a half skirt unlike the stock ones so the notch is not the same and it does make a weak spot i was told to notch them but i took my sq and things are fine even though i was told not to do it she runs great thats what i found out f wiesco they wouldnt do anything to help but charge me for there fup it sucked

[boost_boy]

This was a custom set of wiseco slugs made back in 1999 when wiseco did nothing for the CA. These also didn't come with squirter reliefs, so I had them machined with no ill effects, except the experimentational Jim Wolf program on my USDM CA18DE pulsar ecu that would ultimately kill the pistons in less than 1000 miles



Find a competent machine shop and get it done. If you put the pistons in the motor without the machine work, when you rotate the engine, watch the shaft of the squiters come raining down onto the ground.

Why don't some of you guys just listen to the info given on this forum. The CP pistons are better suited for the novice because they are already correctly done like float said. All what most of you newbs are trying to do has already been done while some of you were still in day care. Please take the advice. And most importantly READ MY SIG

Dee

[KEMP]

what did you do exactly?

you took your sq? huh? im confused

[KEMP]

i was thinking about putting one copper crush washer under the squirter then swiveling the squirter towards the middle by cutting the little nothc stopper in half.

any thoughts?

[boost_boy]

what did you do exactly?

you took your sq? huh? im confused

Look at it and use it as a reference. Your piston should be the same as the in the pic and should be big enough to mark your own piston. If not you'll need to get the piston in the cylinder, slide it down to the squirter, make a mark, and use half of hole in a CD mark your cut. If you don't understand, the center hole of a compact disc is a starting point, but you'll only need half of it to make your mark.

Dee

[KEMP]

so are u saying make the notch myself?

[boost_boy]

so are u saying make the notch myself?

You can do it. It cost me $20 per piston to get mine done when in all actuality, I could've done it myself.

Dee

[KEMP]

ok, would you recomend the notch since it creates a weak point? or the crush washer and rotating the squirter?

i would rather pay someone to do it, so its consistant through each piston

[float_6969]

Either notch the piston, or remove the squirters. Rotating them will do nothing for you.

You can notch them yourself, you just need a very accurate scale to make sure that you take the same amount of weight off of each of them. IIRC, as long as they are w/in .5grams of each other, then you'll be fine.

[KEMP]

ok, what king of toll do you reccomend to make the notch?

and if they are no more than .5 grams heavier/lighter than the others then its fine?

[KEMP]

another question is, how big of a ***** is the crank gear to get off of the crank? i hear of people cutting them off.?

[zero_gripS13]

i drilled tapped and pulleed the gear off also bought a new one lol its a *****,..

[bentvalves]

if its never been off that timing gear usually has to be cut, then split with a hammer/chissel in order to remove it.

also, if you havent spun any bearings and your crank is std size, look at the FSM for sizing steps to sizing 7 different grades of std rod/main bearings.....there are numbers on your crank and block - look into it.

[KEMP]

ya i know, the machine shop is going to check the crank and what not, no bearings were spun.

also, the macine shop agreed to getting the gear off, haha, so thats good for me. how much is a new one? and can i get it for a de at nissan?

[zero_gripS13]

ebay has em for 30$ or soemthing i got mine from nissan for 25$ ..

[KEMP]

cool deal.

i got my pistons today, very nice, all are like within .2 grams of eachother!!

they look great with no rough edges and the anti-friction skirt coat.

also, i noticed on one side of the piston skirt, the little notches(no for sq) one is arched more and im not sure if it makes a difference in which way the pistons go in?

[KEMP]

the motor is out with ease, damn these motors are sooo easy to pull, compared to my DSM, haha

it begins, piston/ring status will be posted soon.

[KEMP]

piston number 4 has the worst ring land break ive ever seen on a ca based on the pics i have seen, probably a 1/4 of the ringland fell out along with secondary comp ring, there was many parts of the piston broken into peices, like a whole pile of ring/ ringland, surprisingly the cyl. wall wasnt too bad, nothing the bore wont take care of.

pics tomorrow

[KEMP]

block is at the local Smyth Machine shop.

bored 20 over, honed, crank turned, acl race bearings, wiseco's(with notches), full hot tank, new freeze plugs, decked and spec'd to make 8.8:1 compression.

hopefully ill get her in this weekend, but i foung out my little six puck clutch had a pad broken off, so theres another $300 for a GOOD spec stg3 6puck

[zero_gripS13]

hell yea i get my motor back this week also

good luck with the build. are you assembling it or are they?

[KEMP]

i was going to assemble it, but they are doing my ring gap to my target boost and it'll be ready to drop in when i pick her up, so i thought the $100 was worth it.

[zero_gripS13]

they charged me 28$ to do my ring gap cheapest filer i found was 30$ so i said f*** it go ahead lol.

i didnt ask how to assemble but i wanted to check my bearings clearances and s*** plus i wanna get more experience so ima assemble mine.. all it means is if it f***s up itts my fault and i wont have a ca for a long long time lol. well i could always just use my back up engine and transfer parts over but i dont wanna think like that.. ill assemble it correctly and all will be good.

[bentvalves]

so you went with the ACL's instead of OEM std grade bearings?