Engine noise issue with my 2008 G37S

[SteveTheTech]

I know that the Inifiniti Techs are taught to regard everything from the FSM as being gold

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

[fbpem1]

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

Actually we are taught to use common sense.

teehee thats correct.

i have nothing else to add here or anything positive to say to SBD so i will go with this

[Sentientbydesign]

Please show some respect for other members AND staff. This type of behavior is not condoned here on NICO and is not appreciated by anybody (regardless of which side of this debate they stand on).

[fbpem1]

Please show some respect for other members AND staff. This type of behavior is not condoned here on NICO and is not appreciated by anybody (regardless of which side of this debate they stand on).

wheres your sense of humor? lol i take it you didn't see the bunny with a pancake on his head.

RIP OOLONG

[Sentientbydesign]

Sorry, but the comment in the "my car" section is over the top IMO.

I could come in here saying that you and Steve are just backing up the $200 oil changes to make a profit too, but I don't because I can't factually say that the new Nissan oil isn't good. I'm just saying Motul makes a good synthetic and it MAY be a viable alternative for those G37 owners who don't want to end up paying an additional $4000 for oil changes over the next 60k miles.

It's obvious we got off on the wrong foot. So to start off new:

Hi. Welcome to NICO!!!

[Jacko3]

In my earlier write up, not once did I mention improved gas mileage as i did not feel there was any improvement on that account when compared to Mobil 1 EP Synthetic 5w-30. Much of my comment between RP and Mobil 1 EP Synthetic centers on increased horspower beyond 4500RPM, cooling or temperature reduction, and internal cleaning effect. When I wrote my comments, I had no idea there was a study that was done posted on the internet. I only came across the research after the fact. The data proves much of what i had earlier written and experienced. And just like you, I doubt there is any improvement in gas mileage between RP and Mobil 1 Synthetic EP 5w-30. In addition, with RP, I noticed the car experiences slightly more heat soaking much faster than Mobil 1 EP Synthetic 5w-30. Again, I beleive Mobil 1 Synthetic EP 5w-30 is slightly better at heat dissipation than RP. So, for someone driving their G normally and on a daily basis, I think Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 or Mobil 1 Synthetic EP 5w-30 works just fine. However, anyone who races and flogs their car routinely, I seriously advice the use of RP. The smnall disadvantge that RP might have is no where as important as the benefit it provides to the car over a long period of intense useage.

My recommendation is that, for daily, occassional intense, and non-intense use, Mobil 1 Synthetic EP 5w-30 works just fine for our cars. However, if you are a hot head at the steering wheel like me, and love pushing that engine to 6000RPM everytime you get into the car, my advice would be a to use RP or as the internet link suggests, Mobil 0W-40, which is what apparently, the GTR uses. I have no reason to doubt the information on that link as I have earlier written something similar prior to discovering the information on that link.

The link clearly says in conclusion, "In the case of a pure performance or race engine where power is priority and oil changes can be frequent, the 0-30/40 oils such as the Mobil 0-40, Castrol R, or Royal Purple would be best suited. However, for regular street-driven engines, it would be better to look at an oil with a good service interval." I agree completely with this assessment. And by frequent oil changes, i suspect the link means changing a synthetic oil every 3,000 miles or less, when in fact synthetic oils can go for much longer in a normallly driven car---up to 10,000 miles. Again, this may also besupporting my 3000 mile oil change matra with RP, since I flog my car all the time. This link also suggests that maybe as our engines age, Mobil 0W-40 Synthetic oil maybe a good idea. I personally wouldn't recommend going beyond a SAE 30 grade oil in our engines when the car is still relatively new. I hear some use the SAE 40 grade oils to help reduce oil consumption in our G. I certainly would consider switching to Mobil 0W - 40 once my Gs engine approaches 100,000 miles on the odometer. That is still many years away from now. Of course this info is for the VQ35DE in the G-35s. The VQ35HR engine in the G-37s and newer 2007 and 2008 G-35s, is another matter altogether.

[Sentientbydesign]

I really wish they would have tested the Amsoil at the lower viscosity like the other brands. I know that the Amsoil that was used was the recommended weight/grade, but I'm curious what type of power and wear the light oil would have done from Amsoil.

[Jacko3]

Nate:

I think at the viscosity test section, it says 6 oils suffered less than 1% or isignficant viscosity loss at lower operating conditions. These 6 good oils were not listed, and I think they include RP, Mobil 1 0W-40, Amsoil series, Castrol SLX, Mobil 5W-50, and another one out there. The ones listed in the viscosity test where the problematic oils at lower operating conditions.

[Sentientbydesign]

Jacko,

Not quite what I was getting at. I think the Amsoil (and possible Torco and Shell) would have put down much better performance numbers if they were the same grade and weight as the other oils. Most of the other oils were 30 or 40 weight with low pour indexes (0w, 5w, versus 20w).

Amsoil, Torco, and Shell were all 50 weight oils as recommended by the manufacturer.

The rest of the oils tested were 30 and 40 weight. The viscosity will effect performance and heat.

[SteveTheTech]

All right Nate your right there were some low blows there, but nothing too painful. Feel free to attack my qualifications if that makes you feel better about yourself. I have thick interwebs proof skin. I may not know everything and I will openly admit that, I am relaying information that I have acquired from overly qualified people, I should have checked my facts.

This turned into one of the biggest threads the G forum has had in a while. Nothing like petroleum based lubricant debate to get the blood flowing.

While Motul may very well be a decent oil, it is not what is recommended for ideal performance. Bottom line. I grow weary of this debate.

I will stand corrected about my previous statements in regards to the Motul, I personally would not use it and would just go to Nissan and buy my own and bring it to the dealer.

[SteveTheTech]

Hey check out this link I found on the Nissan Tech site.

Technology in the New VQ

[pjl31445]

Hi Steve - I started this "discussion", never expected the type of responses I have read.So far my 08 G-37 is running great - no noise, other then the great normal growl..Bottom line, wow - do I enjoy the G-37.

[Jacko3]

Steve:

Very interesting. Its amazing the technology they use these days in car engines. I wonder if they used the same technology in the VQ35DE engine.

[SteveTheTech]

Hi Steve - I started this "discussion", never expected the type of responses I have read.So far my 08 G-37 is running great - no noise, other then the great normal growl..Bottom line, wow - do I enjoy the G-37.

That's great to hear the 37 is a very fun car, and this thread spawned a very long discussion, and some good ole fashion internet bashing.

Steve:

Very interesting. Its amazing the technology they use these days in car engines. I wonder if they used the same technology in the VQ35DE engine.

I do think that is the technology used in the new Max as they require ester as well but in reading that cam article you can see why the ester would benefit over long term operation.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

Jacko:

yes the same tech was used back in 2001-2002 when they were designing the VQ35DE motor!

DJ

[Jacko3]

Thats interesting. I am pretty impressed with Nissan and their desire to bring to the ordinary man, the advanced technologies found in many high end vehicles.

[AZhitman]

Those of you who believe that oil needs to be changed every 3000 miles are lying to yourselves. If you push the engine hard enough, your oil may not even last that long. But on the flip side, your oil may be fully capable of lasting 7k, 10k, or more.

Without an oil analysis by a reputable lab, you won't know.

Ugh.

SBD, you just lost me. You had my support up 'til this.

I've sent in a LOT of samples for analysis. I've owned more cars than most women have shoes, and most of them are mildly to heavily modded.

I have never once seen an oil (even good synthetics) retain their detergent properties beyond the recommended oil change intervals.

I have never once had a sample NOT come back at the upper limits of acidity for the engine.

I have never once had a sample sent back that still had plenty of capacity for suspended contaminants.

So, while you CAN rely on longer intervals, the most important characteristics of the oil are already exhausted, conveniently very close to the factory-recommended intervals: Those being detergent concentration, proper pH, and retention of contaminants in suspension.

Sure, it may stay slippery and golden - But those aren't the real critical properties here.

You'll be fine - It's the poor bastard that gets your sludged up engine (2nd / 3rd / 4th owner) at 100K miles that gets screwed.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

i didn't change my oil for 15k miles in my g with M1 EP and It was still clean when I took it out!

DJ

[Sentientbydesign]

I have a hard time understanding how you've had such consistent results, but those on BITOG who religiously send out oil samples are able to use their oil for much longer.

Also, what is to be said of the claims by Mobil (both synthetic and blended varieties) that allow for 5,000, 7,500, and 10,000 mile change intervals?

Amsoil has claims of up to 35,000 miles with proper filtration.

I'm not doubting your experiences, I'm just trying to understand the wide variance. I highly doubt that you push all of your cars so hard that they lose their additive packages all around the same time. So, what's the variable here?

[AZhitman]

And, to follow up on that:

I'm a Mobil 1 full-syn guy. Always have been.

However, my 68K mile boosted VQ is still running dino oil, whatever cheap stuff Nissan has in their tanks (Steve, what is it?).

Have we a comparison of the makeup of this ester-based Nissan oil? Is it indeed supplied by ENEOS? (If so, I may have a solution, G37 guys).

Also, how does it compare with, say, a Mobil 1?

Lastly, are we (and by "we" I mean "nissan experts") being led to believe that in the event of a warranty claim, the underwriter is going to determine WHAT oil was in the crankcase at the time of the engine goign tits-up?

Are we implying that every service must be conducted at the dealer to preclude jeopardizing a potential future warranty claim?

I'm curious what the "official" corporate position is on this issue.

[Jacko3]

Azhitman:

I am seriously curious of the very same question as well. What is Nissan up to with this new ester oil?

[AZhitman]

i didn't change my oil for 15k miles in my g with M1 EP and It was still clean when I took it out!

DJ

DJ -

While I appreciate your intent, and your loyalty, I have to point out that the fact that the oil "looked clean" means much.

Analysis would likely have shown otherwise.

No offense intended tho!

[marlin29311]

Not sure if this is the "corporate" response, but my dealer said as long as you change the oil no longer than every 7500 miles or 6 months, you're ok to go (as long as you can prove it).

They've also noted that using a synthetic oil is ok for the VQ engines in terms of warranty...

[AZhitman]

I have a hard time understanding how you've had such consistent results, but those on BITOG who religiously send out oil samples are able to use their oil for much longer.

Also, what is to be said of the claims by Mobil (both synthetic and blended varieties) that allow for 5,000, 7,500, and 10,000 mile change intervals?

Amsoil has claims of up to 35,000 miles with proper filtration.

I'm not doubting your experiences, I'm just trying to understand the wide variance. I highly doubt that you push all of your cars so hard that they lose their additive packages all around the same time. So, what's the variable here?

No surprises here - Keep in mind that many of these claims are made in light-duty applications. They're not considering frequent / persistent trips to the rev limiter, track events, short trips, crappy oxygenated fuel, dusty climates, extreme heat, or internal / external engine mods.

The testing they do is a LOT less scientific than you'd think. Two retards in lab coats in the Castrol commercial, running a couple Dodge Stratuses on a dyno until an engine blows, is FAR from reality.

Again, protection from metal-on-metal contact is the MOST BASIC of functions an oil serves. As long as it still performs that function, it's considered to be "passable".

Hell, I have seen state-owned vehicles get "lost" from a maintenance scheduler's computer and go 40K miles on the factory fill. Domestic POS's even - Doesn't mean the oil is worth a damn any longer, it just means it keeps the shiny bits from going "crunch".

Corrosion of certain components, pitting on a microscopic level, and deterioration of the seals is happening WAY before the oil's lubricity actually fails.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

DJ -

While I appreciate your intent, and your loyalty, I have to point out that the fact that the oil "looked clean" means much.

Analysis would likely have shown otherwise.

No offense intended tho!

hey... I To guys like you for all the great information that you guys have provided me.

Knowing what I know now... I will most likely be changing my oil every 5k miles... Depending on how hard I drive the G. I also love the RP oil and will continue to use it.

I don't plan on keeping my G much after 70 or 80k miles... so I guess it will be someones problem down the road

I do have to say that I think it is really just a personal preference. I have an uncle that would buy a toyota pickup from the In the 80's and 90's and beat the hell out of them. He would use dyno oil and only changed it every 20k miles. My father would take care of his truck and change the oil every 3-5k miles and always had more problems than my uncle... I mean they would buy two brand new trucks at the same day.... and my dad would have more issues. they also would drive about the same 50-70k miles a year.

I also have a friend that has a 2004 ford f150 with the 4.6l V8 and he changes it every 10k miles... He has over 295k trouble free miles...

If you race it is one thing... but if you just drive like Telco... well spending all this money is worthless IMHO..

DJ

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

Can you tell I like to race

[Jacko3]

Tampa:

As you can see from Azhitman's comments, Jacko is not crazy afterall for changing oil at 3,000 miles, with routine flogging, even wne using Royal Purple. My G is for life---keep your G. A day will come when the G-35 engine will be hailed as one fo the strongest engines out there. I am confident of this event occuring and the G-35 C will become very much sought after.

I just received a call from my dealer today, out of the blues, asking if i was interested in selling them my G-35 Coupe---they didn't call to sell me any new car--they were only interested in buying my G-35C---I was perplexed.

The other day, "Sneake" a Nicoclub member, highlighted that 4 G-35C had been burglarized, and that the FBI was getting involved with G-35C burglaries.

It appears there is something going on with G-35 C demand all over the nation. So, to all, guard your G-35C with all your heart.

[Sentientbydesign]

I got one of the letters stating this and also a follow up phone call. Probably because I have a black on black 6mt coupe.

[joe603]

Tampa:

As you can see from Azhitman's comments, Jacko is not crazy after all...

Jacko, that's the 3rd time I've seen you post in the 3rd person! You're a little crazy methinks

[telcoman]

If you race it is one thing... but if you just drive like Telco... well spending all this money is worthless IMHO..

DJ

LOL

I find this whole debate on oil amusing. I commute 2k miles a month all NJ Turnpike & Parkway and I change my oil myself every 3k to 3.5k miles. I've done 22 oil & filter changes so far. No matter what oil is used it begins to absorb contaminates as a byproduct of an internal combustion engine.Every time an engine cools humidity and water vapor in small amounts begins to mix with the oil. Over time this is what turns into sludge.By changing oil every 3k miles reduces the possibility of sludge buildup.So why use expensive oil that gets changed every month and a half? As long as the oil meets API and manufactures specs no need to waste $$$ on expensive oil. I'm not an engineer but this has worked well for me for many years.

I don't think my tach has ever been over 5k RPM

Telcoman