Encryptshun's time-to-put-up-or-shut-up build thread

[Dittoz7]

Stack Of RPF1's!

Win To Teh 2nd Power!



Are Those Slicks?Or Just Shadows Making It Look Funny?

[Encryptshun]

They're Falken Azenis with about 3 drift sessions on them. They were on the wheels. I'll be replacing those as well once I get everything else done.

[thefro526]

how do you like the buddy club seat? I really think they look good and will match my interior well...

[Encryptshun]

I haven't really had much seat-time with the Buddy Clubs, but what I have is okay. If you are broad-shouldered or more than 36 inch waist, you'll want to get the wide ones rather than the standard.

[wynnEZ]

Looks like you have a good setup going. Good luck on the rest of the build.

[Encryptshun]

Bump! Car is down on all 4 corners and has a new windshield. Pics to come tonight.

[Hijacker]

It's about time

[pflicht]

Hell yeah!

[dickie]

if your car is done before mine im going to need you to come over and help me finish.

[MastaYu]

Bump! Car is down on all 4 corners and has a new windshield. Pics to come tonight.

Sweet!

[Encryptshun]

It's about time

What? It's only been 13 months!

if your car is done before mine im going to need you to come over and help me finish.

Yeah, I'll stop by Texas on my way home from work tonight...

Thanks, pflicht and MastaYu.

At this point, here is the list of things to do:

1) figure out why the climate control doesn't work (no fan)

2) tuck and glue down the carpet

3) mount passenger inside lap belt eye-bolt through transmission tunnel

4) mount seat

5) lower front suspension (still like a 3.5" gap )

6) get alignment

1 - 4 will be done tonight. #5 I'm not sure how to handle -- the aero is so low that dropping the car means I can't get the jack out. Any diy ideas?

[srpowered240sx]

looks great, but where did you install your pu$$y magnet?....i am having a hard time with mine.

[Encryptshun]

^ I just open a can of tuna and they come a-runnin'.

Oh wait, maybe I'm confused...

[Hijacker]

Blocks of wood under the front tires.

Also, you can do the slower way of jacking by going from the side and jacking on the frame rails.

[Encryptshun]

Blocks of wood under the front tires.

Also, you can do the slower way of jacking by going from the side and jacking on the frame rails.

Please elaborate. I am adjusting the height by removing the two 17mm lower bolts, tilting the spindle out of the way, rotating the lower housing upward, tightening the retention nuts, reassembling, removing the jackstands and taking a gap measurement with the suspension under full load. I am jacking up the car from the side and it's the side-skirts that are not granting enough clearance. Is there a better way to do it?

[Hijacker]

Are you having the same clearance issues if you jack from the front? A lot of times, I'll jack off the front lower core support to get a temp stand under the car so I can then rejack from the motor crossmember.

However, some bumpers don't like that either, unless you have a low profile jack.

I've taken some planks of wood and put them under the tires so when you lower the car, you have an extra inch of clearance on cars with big sideskirts. A 2x4 works wonders for that, but if you have some thinner pieces you can stack, that works as well.

I've had to do the wood trick at the track a few times when I've used 13" wheels with small sidewall tires.

[Encryptshun]

Aaaaah. Now I grok your crazy mouth-music. I will try both the wood and lower support tricks tonight. Thanks!

[Hijacker]

The nice part about the wood trick is that if you're using 2x4s, or 1" high planks, you can drive the car onto those fairly easily.

[Soravia]

Brush and paint your back seat support.

[CRIPES]

Blocks of wood under the front tires.

Also, you can do the slower way of jacking by going from the side and jacking on the frame rails.

^^thats what i do, get 2 2X4's and drive up on them.... you should have enough room to clear the jack.

[tramp_drift240]

you have to completely disconnect the coil from the spindle to adjust the height?

[Encryptshun]

you have to completely disconnect the coil from the spindle to adjust the height?

Didn't say have to. Said did. So one way is that you back the bottom retaining nut off from the lower housing, you grab the threaded part of the coil body and you screw it down into the lower housing until the retaining nut is again flush. Then you cinch it up. However, what you are doing is unscrewing out of the top as you screw into the bottom, effectively keeping it at the same hight. So (and this is why I asked for help), the only way to avoid that as far as I can tell is to unbolt the lower housing, disconnect the brake line clip, and then screw the lower housing up onto the coil body.

Again, I've never done this before, so if there's an easier way, let me know.

[Encryptshun]

Here are the pics as promised:

Doing its best Jay Leno. (I hate this nose)



Still gappy in front



I've always been an ***-man, myself



Dinner!

[Encryptshun]

Are you having the same clearance issues if you jack from the front? A lot of times, I'll jack off the front lower core support ...

Bart, what you do with your car, in the privacy of your own home, is no one's business but your own. Personally, I prefer to jack from the front, as jacking from the rear requires that I either dislocate my shoulder or perform a very painful tuck maneuver and stand on my head.

[kevinphan]

How did you go about bypassing ABS? did you just buy an eliminator bar to eliminate HICAS as well or did you get a new subframe?

[Encryptshun]

^ ABS bypass is as simple as disconnecting the wiring to the ABS actuator. Your dash light stays on all the time and you still have to buy ABS rotors and pads unless you change the front calipers, though. One of the front speed sensors for my car had been cut off before I bought it, so ABS wasn't an option unless I wanted to fix that as well. I didn't.

And yeah, there's a hicas eliminator bar installed as well.

[kevinphan]

Hmm that sounds easy could you possibly take a close up of it?

Is it possible to remove the ABS pump(?) that's right next to the wiper motor. I hope I'm correct haha.

[Bumnah]

Car looks good. I have the same rims. Mine are 16x8.

[alphapig]

Looks good!

The sandwich, that is.

Car is just OK.

[Encryptshun]

Hmm that sounds easy could you possibly take a close up of it?

Is it possible to remove the ABS pump(?) that's right next to the wiper motor. I hope I'm correct haha.

You wouldn't want to remove the ABS actuator (that's the metal cyborg-looking mechanism by the wiper motor) because your hard lines run into and out of that even if your ABS is disabled. You'd have to re-run (or splice) the lines in order to bypass and remove the actuator assembly. I don't think it weighs very much and it may very well help to slightly cool your brake fluid through passive radiation, so unless you really really want to, I'd suggest leaving it and just disconnecting the wiring.