EGR problem, read procedure but have a question

[rms13Mike]

ive seen alot of threads about egr triggering the CEL (some codes 32 and 34 like mine) ive read some procedures to check whats causing it.i tried to push the bottom of the EGR valve like many have suggested but ive tried hard to push it but it wont move at all. just to clear things up im suppose to push up on the circled green part below right? and if im right, since it wont go up at all, it means my EGR valve is the culprit?



and i found that the hose under the EGR valve connecting to the bottom of the BPT is crack/ripped, so im planning on replacing it.

and i also tried to check for vacuum from the hose on the top of the valve and BPT but cant really feel anything, it might have vacuum but idk how much is it normally. how much is enough?

my car passed smog fine march 09 but the CEL have been turning on and off before that by itself but now it seems to stay on. and also when i clear the codes itll stay clear for about 100 or so miles and after a multiple starts then turn on again. my car runs perfectly fine, nothing changed other than maaaaybe just a little lower MPG than when the CEL is off. i know i wont need to smog it for awhile but seeing that CEL is just annoying and even if i wont be able to fix it now i just really want to know how to fix it when time comes.

thanks in advance!
Modified by rms13Mike at 1:11 AM 9/18/2009

[Salem240]

No, you push up on the part that has the little orange arrow to it... the motor should stall when you push up on it.

[rms13Mike]

thanks! tried it and it almost stalled if i didnt let go. i tried to take the small hose on the bottom of the EGR and BPT valve and turns out its not ripped at all, not until i got it off , just marks

how do i check if the BPT valve is working? anyone know?

[rms13Mike]

just found that the crack on the brake vacuum hose that i covered with sealant and electrical tape before got bigger. is it possible for this to trigger EGR?

im kinda stumped, all the hoses i saw near the egr were fine

[Salem240]

I'm sure the vac leak doesn't help but it could be causing the thrown codes. Fix the leak and reset the ecm

[rms13Mike]

changed the hose but havent reset the ecu. ill do that probably tomorrow and keep this updated if it works or not. thanks!

[rms13Mike]

reset the ECU. then the light didnt come back on for a long time so i thought that was it but it came on again recently, checked the codes and now i got code 11, 32, and 34 i really want to fix this. car runs good but i think gas milage has gone down. idk what could be wrong.

[carps13guy]

my car does the same thing. ive replaced the egr, that vacuum switch thing, all hoses, & still the cel comes on. ive also replaced the knock sensor as well. my car runs good, but i notice that whenever i get on the freeway on my commute the cel turns on. but then it turns off a few miles before i exit the freeway (15 miles). the only thing i can think of is the coolant temp sensor that is a unit in the egr circuit. but they are realy expensive & cant afford one atm.

[rms13Mike]

same codes even code 11? my CEL goes on when im on the freeway too and before (long time ago) it would go off by itself at some point but now it just stays on. coolant temp sensor in the egr circuit? is it another temp sensor other than the one up front beside the temp sender?

my car does the same thing. ive replaced the egr, that vacuum switch thing, all hoses, & still the cel comes on. ive also replaced the knock sensor as well. my car runs good, but i notice that whenever i get on the freeway on my commute the cel turns on. but then it turns off a few miles before i exit the freeway (15 miles). the only thing i can think of is the coolant temp sensor that is a unit in the egr circuit. but they are realy expensive & cant afford one atm.

[carps13guy]

same codes even code 11? my CEL goes on when im on the freeway too and before (long time ago) it would go off by itself at some point but now it just stays on. coolant temp sensor in the egr circuit? is it another temp sensor other than the one up front beside the temp sender?

i wasnt getting 11, but i was getting 32,34,& 44(or whatev code is fuel leak for cali models only). & it would only b intermittent until one day it just wouldnt go off. since then, ive replaced the bpt & egr valves. my mech buddy said that my hoses were leaking even though they looked fine. smoke test showed that they were leaking. i replaced my: injectors,distributor cap, wires, plugs. now the only code i get is 32. & the temp sensor you are thinking of is strictly for the gauge in the cluster. the actual temp. sensor that is tied into the egr & is relayed to the ecu is on the back of the block. my mech buddy said that it gets buildup on it from water setiments & can be cleaned, but you will have to reset the timing. sounds like we have damn near the same problem, any info i get as far as fixing it i will relay to you. good luck

[carps13guy]

oh & btw that cracked hose is a big part of your stumbling issues. the one b4 the bpt & egr valve. that fixed alot of my idling issues.

[rms13Mike]

ooh okay. how do you do the smoke test? wow man you spent a lot already haha. how much are those temp sensor? and do you have a pic of where it is? . how come? would taking it off mess with the timing? yea man haha it is the same. im afraid that mine might actually be knocking (hopefully not) causing the code 11 to go after the code 32 and 34 after awhile.

today though the CEL finally turned off by itself while i was on the freeway, only thing i did different was drive skipping gears. i was going mostly 1st-3rd-5th skipping 2nd and 4th

thanks for the help man, appreciate it a lot! im gunna try the other things you did, keep this updated haha

[carps13guy]

well a good mech. shop should have a smoke machine. but to be honest w/ya the hoses in the pics you had, were stock. as in 20yrs old. just spend a day & about 5 bucks & replace all of em. its way easier & less painful on your neck if you take off the hood to have more room to work. my situation was that one of my injectors was bad, causing the motor to knock. after i changed my injectors the knock code went away. also you prob should replace your knock sensor anyway, because their life span is only about 8 years. & im over messin w/smog related issues because im getting a truck to tow my car to the track in 6mo's when i graduate. so im not spending any more money on smog parts. & i didnt check on how expensive the coolant temp sensor is, but i know its not going to be cheap. & the only reason i bought a new egr & bpt valve is because my friend is co-owner of 247parts.com & he gives me really good deals . so code 11 is camshaft position sensor, which is tied into the distributor harness i think. maybe check the connections to the plug where it plugs into the distributor. oh and i doubt you skipping gear changed any input to turn the cel off, just bogging your motor & causing more buildup on your plugs.

[rms13Mike]

okay thanks, ill try those

[Wc240]

you need two peaple. hold your car at 2500 rpm. put your foot over the muffler(like your trying to choke it) there should be vacuum at the hose goin to the egr from the BPT valve. take of the egr valve and with brake clean and a wire brush, clean the hell out of it. 20 years of carbon buildup is not good. then, with egr installed, take the tube goin to it and suck on it(suck it b**** lol) make sure the car stalls(basically checking to see if the diafram will hold vacuum.

thats a make shift way to check that system

[celbii]

I

my car does the same thing. ive replaced the egr, that vacuum switch thing, all hoses, & still the cel comes on. ive also replaced the knock sensor as well. my car runs good, but i notice that whenever i get on the freeway on my commute the cel turns on. but then it turns off a few miles before i exit the freeway (15 miles). the only thing i can think of is the coolant temp sensor that is a unit in the egr circuit. but they are realy expensive & cant afford one atm.

I just bought a coolant temp sensor, they are only 15 dollars at auto stores... not very expensive.

[carps13guy]

the sensor you bought is the one on the front of the block, below & midline to the throttle body right? that sensor is only for the gauge in the cluster. the one im talking about is a s*** ton of money

[rms13Mike]

you need two peaple. hold your car at 2500 rpm. put your foot over the muffler(like your trying to choke it) there should be vacuum at the hose goin to the egr from the BPT valve. take of the egr valve and with brake clean and a wire brush, clean the hell out of it. 20 years of carbon buildup is not good. then, with egr installed, take the tube goin to it and suck on it(suck it b**** lol) make sure the car stalls(basically checking to see if the diafram will hold vacuum.

thats a make shift way to check that system

LOL, ill try that choking the exhaust trick, i didnt know how to check the BPT valve, thanks for that, but ive tried pushing the diaphragm up and it stalls the engine, and iirc i also did the sucking on the hose but with the engine off. ill try it again just to make sure...not because i like it lol

[rms13Mike]

I I just bought a coolant temp sensor, they are only 15 dollars at auto stores... not very expensive.

yea, like carps13guy said thats either dash gauge or ecu temp sensor

[vancouverbc]

the sensor you bought is the one on the front of the block, below & midline to the throttle body right? that sensor is only for the gauge in the cluster. the one im talking about is a s*** ton of money

do you live in california. i think the egr temp sensor is specific to california. the engine coolant sensor is 11 bucks at rock auto. egr one is 100 bucks

[rms13Mike]

do you live in california. i think the egr temp sensor is specific to california. the engine coolant sensor is 11 bucks at rock auto. egr one is 100 bucks

wow. is there a way to check if that temp sensor is broken?

[vancouverbc]

the fsm says code 32 is triggered when the egr valve does not lift.I don't know how the computer will know if the egr is lifting or not because it lifts because of a vacuum signal.

anyway, put your finger under the egr valve while reving the engine. if working, you will feel the diaphragm lift. you can rev the engine with the throttle cable at throttle.

zer...orial

[vancouverbc]

there is a code 35 that triggers when the egr temp sensor is out of spec. best that you trace the vacuum back to see why you are not receiving vacuum signal

[rms13Mike]

good stuff! how much vaccum is there suppose to be from the BPT valve? if i dont feel vaccum is it def the BPT thats faulty? sorry i got so many questions

the fsm says code 32 is triggered when the egr valve does not lift.I don't know how the computer will know if the egr is lifting or not because it lifts because of a vacuum signal.

anyway, put your finger under the egr valve while reving the engine. if working, you will feel the diaphragm lift. you can rev the engine with the throttle cable at throttle.

zer...orial

[vancouverbc]

good stuff! how much vaccum is there suppose to be from the BPT valve? if i dont feel vaccum is it def the BPT thats faulty? sorry i got so many questions

the egr is on only at specific times. check vacuum when you are revving the engine.

as long as you detect some suction on your finger it is prob ok.

the bpt is only one thing that controls vacuum. the vacuum has to go through the egr solenoid and obviously your egr temp sensor has to be working. everything has to give a green light for vacuum to go onto next step and finally to the egr.

there is no avoiding it, you have to understand the complete system to find the fauty component.

[rms13Mike]

the egr is on only at specific times. check vacuum when you are revving the engine.

as long as you detect some suction on your finger it is prob ok.

the bpt is only one thing that controls vacuum. the vacuum has to go through the egr solenoid and obviously your egr temp sensor has to be working. everything has to give a green light for vacuum to go onto next step and finally to the egr.

there is no avoiding it, you have to understand the complete system to find the fauty component.

true. hmm i see... does the swirl valve also has something to do with it? what is it anyways?
Modified by rms13Mike at 8:45 PM 11/5/2009

[rms13Mike]

i was revving the engine but i didnt feel the egr valve go up, nor did i feel any significant vacuum from the bpt valve...

[vancouverbc]

i was revving the engine but i didnt feel the egr valve go up, nor did i feel any significant vacuum from the bpt valve...

create a vacuum on hose going to egr valve. the diaphragm should lift. read section ec of fsm and find out what is wrong with your egr system.

[rms13Mike]

create a vacuum on hose going to egr valve. the diaphragm should lift. read section ec of fsm and find out what is wrong with your egr system.

wow, theres so much info on there, didnt see that part before. i did the first part. theres no vacuum coming from the BPT valve at 2000 rpms. i havent done the other diagnostics because i dont have a volt/ohm meter . also the EGR valve does lift and hold with vacuum.

[carps13guy]

wow, theres so much info on there, didnt see that part before. i did the first part. theres no vacuum coming from the BPT valve at 2000 rpms. i havent done the other diagnostics because i dont have a volt/ohm meter . also the EGR valve does lift and hold with vacuum.

well if its just the bpt valve, ur stoked cuz they can be had for about 50-60 bux depending on who makes it. & if you do find out that your egr valve is fubar as well, i have a used one i could sell you for like 65 bux shipped. i bought a new one thinking that the egr was bad, but when i was removing it i found that the hose from the bpt to the egr was almost completely disintegrated. that was the hard lesson learned, not to throw parts @ my car w/out inspecting or diagnosing it first